So I am about to buy my car again...

It happened...

Another turbo bites the dust. Another idiot doesn't stop driving soon enough. Another sucker buys his car again.

So the damn thing failed while on the highway using cruise control. First noticed during an uphill section when the car shifted down. Where did all the power go? Took the next exit and checked under the hood... no strange noises, smells, nothing. Figured a vacuum line came loose or something. I was 3/4 through a 9 hour drive to visit a friend. All the shops around were closed for the day, so I decided to hop back on the highway and see if I could limp her the rest of the way. Soon I heard whining, screetching, and rattling like never before, and my heart sank:confused:

Pulled off and the turbo was just rattling away, slowly shredding itself to pieces. So there I was, around 11pm, in the middle of bumf**k Virginia, with my dying car. That's when I earned my idiot badge and drove it another couple hours to my destination. Got in touch with a local shop that said they would take a look at it the next morning. Fired her up and she spewed smoke and oil like a vintage tractor. And that was the end of my turbo and my engine.

After educating myself on the common issue our turbo has, I am chalking it up to infrequent oil changes, possible sub-prime oil, and definitely never had the banjo checked.

Eventually had it towed back home and just got it to a shop I trust to do the fix. I am about to pour about 15K into this thing. I think that earns me my crazy badge! Repairs/Upgrades include full tear down and build, turbo, fuel pump w/ big injectors, clutch kit/flywheel resurface, exhaust, brakes, boost controller and a tune eventually.

I know I'm not the first to go through this(won't be the last), so I thought I'd see if I can pull any lessons learned from others who have gone through similar strife, and offer my own through the process. I'll be digging through all the turbo stickys for some more insight.

Cheers

ps - the project is going to be done over the course of about a year... I am leaving the country and have given the shop the luxury of working on it while I'm gone.

EDIT

Parts/Work List:

(this is all tentative, as all that is being done so far is a tear down to prep for machine shop)

Engine

-Short Block - remove and replace, rebuild assembly

-Crankshaft

-Piston set w/ rings

-Main bearing set

-Rod bearing set

-Connecting rods

-Oil pickup (Killer B)

-Oil Pump

-Head stud kit

-Thermostat

-Boost controller

-Access Port

Turbo (possibly Blouch 380XT)

-Oil feed line

Fuel Pump

Injectors/adapters (injector dynamics 1000cc)

Ceramic clutch kit (STI stage 3 - segmented)

Resurface flywheel

Trans service

F/R diff service

Magnaflow catback

ERZ/CNT DP

Slotted Rotors all around (Stop tech)

Pads (hawk)

Steel braided lines (techna fit)

Misc

-windshield

-intercooler-TBD

-swaybars/endlinks

-trans cooler-TBD

-HELLAS

As you know, everyhting is here that you need to know.

Good luck.

Think about replacing some of the hoses too. Cleaning the grounds, grease the starter shaft and tranny snout.

May be you should start a list of things to do...

May be you should start a list of things to do...

I have one started... but yes, I am a list person, there will be a list

What shop do you have it at and do you have a build list?

15K IS pretty high. Estimates totalled around 13K, but I'm a realist and know there will be some more to be done before I get the car back. The estimates do include some other misc work that needs done (windshield, trans service, diff service, ect)

I have it at Family Automotive Service and Tuning (FAST) in West Chester.

FWIW, I normally paste this in threads like this.

Here's what I did.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

it sounds like you are basically going to go stage 3 with fuel mods and exhaust, and you're starting with more-or-less nothing

Yep, that's where I'm at.

I'll have a lightly used FX350 clutch setup with flywheel in the near future if you're interested

I think I'm sticking with the stock auto for now w/ a stage 3 clutch kit. Maybe a cooler/t-stat down the road

FWIW, I normally paste this in threads like this

Thanks, I'll take a gander

FWIW, I normally paste this in threads like this.

 

Here's what I did.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

Byron, you should add that link to your signature

$15k is crazy high. IMO it shouldn't be anywhere near that cost.

I think so too.

^ I agree.

At this point and for that price, I would shoot for a reliable 500hp.

OP if it makes you feel better, I've about paid for my wagon twice...I bought it new late Jun 2004.

I really enjoy driving it. That's the facture you have to focus on.

OP, just found this thread. fyi....

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fl-fresh-d25-cylinder-heads-complete-mint-215761.html?t=215761

OP, just found this thread. fyi....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fl-fresh-d25-cylinder-heads-complete-mint-215761.html?t=215761

save yourself a bundle and buy this.

Looking over your list, you have a combination of high-end parts and I'm too cheap parts. Figure out what you want from your car, then build to that standard. New ID1000 sized injectors and resurface flywheel are opposite ends of the spectrum.

If you are looking for a monster build, anything close 400hp is going to be in the expensive range. If you have a problem with changing the oil, a high HP build is going to be wasted dollars. If you go with a forged internals setup, your morning warm-up routine is going to be longer (if you were a get-in & drive it kind of driver).

2 years ago, I was in your shoes. 6 months later, I was looking at roughly the same bill. You should be ending up with a much more capable car than what you have listed.

I'd suggest doing more research and getting a definite list of what you are putting on the car as well as what you expect from the build when done. I, too, made a list. In fact, two lists. The first, what I expected from the build when done (had to shop a number of shops to find someone willing to build it); second, a mutually agreed parts list that included everything going on the car (down to a 10 cent gasket). If you are not going to be checking on the car for a year, you want all parties to have an iron-clad understanding of your requirements and their work quality output.

Since it was your turbo that failed, I'm assuming you read this - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html ? If not, it's worth it to read thru.

I would shoot for a reliable 500hp.

dude has a problem while you are in a joking mood

EDIT

 

Parts/Work List:

(this is all tentative, as all that is being done so far is a tear down to prep for machine shop)

 

Engine

- http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fl-fresh-d25-cylinder-heads-complete-mint-215761.html?t=215761

-KillerB Oil pickup + windage tray + oil pan (lack of oil was part of your problem - so add a higher cap pan)

-Oil Pump (get a crawford or cosworth upgraded pump to match higher engine output)

-Thermostat

-Boost controller (grimmspeed 3 port EBC)

-Access Port v3 (or open source?)

 

Turbo (possibly Blouch 380XT) (are you really targeting 400hp? if so, you need to build engine & support structure to handle it (suspension, tranny, etc)

-Oil feed line (use infamous's oil line kit)

-intercooler-TBD - FMIC or bigger TMIC (process west), be sure to start with new hoses & use v-band clamps

 

- Fuel Pump (need to match the feed rate to your injectors)

- replace all the fuel filters

- Injectors/adapters (injector dynamics 1000cc) (how much power are you looking for?)

 

- Ceramic clutch kit (STI stage 3 - segmented)

- Resurface flywheel (replace this with a new, lighter one)

- Trans service (for your build dollar, upgrade to 6mt & front LSD - you'll need it to use all the power you're building for)

F/R diff service (6mt will replace diffs, and adding front LSD)

- add a short shifter (cobb, kartboy, etc)

 

Magnaflow catback (have you heard one in person? are you comfortable with the noise output? Are your neighbors?)

- Nameless builds an extremely good catback system (with a variety of s/s tips), worth looking into

ERZ/CNT DP (be sure to get a high-flow catted model) Invidia or Nameless are other options.

replace the muffler mounting donuts

 

Slotted Rotors all around (Stop tech) - why slotted? bling? as this is useless on street, as well as track

Pads (hawk) hawk what? If going for a dd, hawk HPS should be good enough

Steel braided lines (techna fit), be sure to check the rest of the brake lines, too

 

Suspension:

-swaybars/endlinks (whiteline makes a complete set for your car)

- replace all suspension bushings (lca, diff, trans mount, motor mount, etc)

- add chassis stiffeners (avo & cusco make good stuff)

- replace struts/shocks with upgraded system - RCE Tarmac 1 or KW2 (buy new or look on for sale threads for good deals)

 

Misc

-windshield - why? is it pitted?

-trans cooler-TBD (is this 5mt or 5eat?

-HELLAS (horns? if so, what color? where to be mounted?)

- should update lights, too - barmanbean has/had a nice setup for sale

- interior - upgrade oem headunit - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tx-bnib-oem-nav-display-unit-215839.html

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. This will be my first "build" so forgive my newbness(lol)

(sorry for super longness)

$15k is crazy high. IMO it shouldn't be anywhere near that cost.

I think so too.

Built Engine with install is what, $7-8k if you are paying someone for all the work? Add a CBE ($600), DP ($450), fuel pump ($150), injectors ($700), oil pickup ($200), EBCS ($120), AP ($650), clutch ($300), brake components ($300), swaybars/endlinks ($600).

BarManBean hit pretty close to the center of the estimates I got from the shop.

His build list doesn't mention anything about fully built with forged internals. If we are talking stock rebuild, we all know that short block shouldn't be more than $1800. Maybe he's getting 600hp capable monster build.

I guess I also inferred a bit: Blouch 380xt + 1000cc injecters...why the hell WOULDN'T you use forged internals, lol

Yes, "built" motor was the language the shop and I used... Not looking for 500+hp, more around 350. We discussed the ability of the final product to easily break 400, but I'm looking for a pretty moderate tune on a very capable build.

I really enjoy driving it. That's the facture you have to focus on.

This is what I have to remind myself every time I make a payment haha!

OP, just found this thread. fyi....

Gonna check with the shop on this option...

Looking over your list, you have a combination of high-end parts and I'm too cheap parts. Figure out what you want from your car, then build to that standard. New ID1000 sized injectors and resurface flywheel are opposite ends of the spectrum.

THIS is why I came here. Before I get balls deep into this thing I want to iron everything out. 1000cc seem way to big for what I'm looking for, maybe they threw them on the estimate without thinking about it... luckily I've got some time to figure out what will work best.

If you have a problem with changing the oil, a high HP build is going to be wasted dollars. If you go with a forged internals setup, your morning warm-up routine is going to be longer

I realize that having a car like this will be a different experience, much like a new diet or a new lady friend is. I am sure the rewards will far outweigh any changes I have to make in my driving habits.

a mutually agreed parts list that included everything going on the car

Yup, this is very much a "living" document, and will be revised and revised again until I'm happy.

Thanks for all the helpful advice boxkita, it is not falling on deaf ears!

I will upload scans of some of the estimates later tonight, might clear up some questions and highlight some shortcomings.

Thanks!!!

if you are looking at 350whp, I still think you're dreaming. :-) Especially, if you don't upgrade the suspension. If the torque max is anywhere under 4k, you're going to find yourself at "Hi Police Officer" at every traffic light. On top of which, if you don't have light touch on the gears, kiss that 5MT goodbye.

350whp with good reliability is expensive, both in gas & maintenance.

For the kind of build you are looking at, this comment "maybe they threw them on the estimate without thinking about it" should be cause for concern about the shop you are handing a blank check over to. IDK the shop and not making judgements, however, there are a number of shops in that area that specialize is highly built LGT. Might be worth it to get a 2nd opinion.

If the torque max is anywhere under 4k, you're going to find yourself at "Hi Police Officer" at every traffic light.

if you are looking at 350whp, I still think you're dreaming. :-) Especially, if you don't upgrade the suspension. If the torque max is anywhere under 4k, you're going to find yourself at "Hi Police Officer" at every traffic light. On top of which, if you don't have light touch on the gears, kiss that 5MT goodbye.

Can you elaborate... I get that eventually the suspension is going to need done, and will improve handling greatly, but what does it have to do with how much power the car makes?

Also, at this point I'm leaving the 5EAT in. (at this point)

Here are some estimates. Please voice any concerns:lol:

http://i.imgur.com/Yn2RWhi.png

http://i.imgur.com/WCYSJTJ.png

http://i.imgur.com/1MKwTLo.png

http://i.imgur.com/p2BhcH9.png

20w50 oil ? Kind of thick.

The rest of the list looks ok.

I will say, I really enjoy my wagon. 280whp and 300ftlbs. The car will get 24-25mpg or better on the highway. The car is a absolute blast to drive on the backroads. I can't imagine why you need so much more HP for a DD. Sure another 15 -25whp might be nice. But I didn't want to send the extra money on injectors and fuel pump. Even on the highway, just drop it down a gear give it full boost, the car goes from 60-90 pretty quickly. With traffic being what it is, you can't drive that fast that long any ways.

Just trying to give you a realist view. May be help you decide what you really want.

You said your leaving the car for a year, I'm guessing your being deployed ? Why don't you save your money until you get closer to returning then begin to spend it.