What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Up Pipe has a crack init. I paid the money for the Cobb catless up pipe 4 years ago hoping to avoid things like this.

 

Still trying to diagnose smoke after idle and at WOT. Has anyone experienced valve seals being the cause?

 

The turbo is a rebuilt JMP with 60k on it. It is not making any noise and reaches boost fine. We are replacing the PCV to be safe, but it was replaced about 60k ago too.

 

If it is something deeper in the engine, like valve seals, it seems like the money spent in labor for that would justify just going big and do the whole short block?

 

 

 

Well, if you rebuilt the heads without a new short block, it'd save you about 2k. Unless you're looking for an excuse to upgrade. If you're paying someone else for the labor though, you'd be adding on labor for oil pump, pan, and a few small things. Wouldn't think it's that much more labor.

 

 

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Replaced the 06 WRX rails I originally used in my topfeed conversion with 09 LGT rails. Had to add 2 o-rings backed by a washer to get the LGT rails to seal reliably with ID1000s.

Also, does this thing belong with the car?

 

 

The OEM carpets do, the windshield screen does not. Unlikely it fits the AUDI though, may as well give it to new owner.

Up Pipe has a crack init. I paid the money for the Cobb catless up pipe 4 years ago hoping to avoid things like this.

 

Still trying to diagnose smoke after idle and at WOT. Has anyone experienced valve seals being the cause?

 

The turbo is a rebuilt JMP with 60k on it. It is not making any noise and reaches boost fine. We are replacing the PCV to be safe, but it was replaced about 60k ago too.

 

If it is something deeper in the engine, like valve seals, it seems like the money spent in labor for that would justify just going big and do the whole short block?

 

Sounds like EXACTLY my problem with the LGT (clouds of smoke at launch during autocross runs, puff of smoke on startup). I thought it was valve seals/guides because the car still felt like it had power. Over time, returning to idle got worse (but once there idling was fine). Still thought it was heads, so over a long fiasco (read my posts in this thread for the past year or two ), I had the heads rebuilt but problem persisted. Compression check shows 2/4 cyls being busted (60psi compression).

 

Moral of the story: do a compression test FIRST. Then leakdown, if those results come back good. If both of those are good, then you could have an issue with the heads. A leakdown could also diagnose valve seals/guides, too.

Sounds like EXACTLY my problem with the LGT (clouds of smoke at launch during autocross runs, puff of smoke on startup). I thought it was valve seals/guides because the car still felt like it had power. Over time, returning to idle got worse (but once there idling was fine). Still thought it was heads, so over a long fiasco (read my posts in this thread for the past year or two ), I had the heads rebuilt but problem persisted. Compression check shows 2/4 cyls being busted (60psi compression).

 

Moral of the story: do a compression test FIRST. Then leakdown, if those results come back good. If both of those are good, then you could have an issue with the heads. A leakdown could also diagnose valve seals/guides, too.

 

I am going to go new short block if at all. I am thinking that for all the labor of pulling the engine and heads, I might as well go all the way.

Scary moment coming home from work last Thursday after a crazy amount of rain. Turned onto a busy 4-lane road and once I got up to about 50mph I feel a pop and the car bucks. Every single warning light is on the dash and my temp gauge is pegged hot with the blue cold light on. Luckily the AP was plugged in and still showed 180* coolant temp. The 5EAT was acting weird as hell and my brakes were randomly pulsing while slowing down. Turned the car off and restarted and it ran fine but showed C0045, C0047 and C0072 - so basically all VDC related stuff. The car drove normally after restarting albeit in limp mode. Just this morning all codes cleared themselves after 5 or so driving cycles. Only thing I can guess is during the storm we had some flooding at our steel shop. I had to move my car through about 6-8 inches of water. Something must have gotten wet that shouldn't have. Hopefully it doesn't happen again - not a good feeling at 50mph.

Scary moment coming home from work last Thursday after a crazy amount of rain. Turned onto a busy 4-lane road and once I got up to about 50mph I feel a pop and the car bucks. Every single warning light is on the dash and my temp gauge is pegged hot with the blue cold light on. Luckily the AP was plugged in and still showed 180* coolant temp. The 5EAT was acting weird as hell and my brakes were randomly pulsing while slowing down. Turned the car off and restarted and it ran fine but showed C0045, C0047 and C0072 - so basically all VDC related stuff. The car drove normally after restarting albeit in limp mode. Just this morning all codes cleared themselves after 5 or so driving cycles. Only thing I can guess is during the storm we had some flooding at our steel shop. I had to move my car through about 6-8 inches of water. Something must have gotten wet that shouldn't have. Hopefully it doesn't happen again - not a good feeling at 50mph.

 

I would be inclined to try and figure out what got wet. That sounds super unpleasant.

Got final confirmation that my fuel pressure pulsations were due to the way I went about my topfeed conversion. Good to have the final piece of the puzzle settled. Made a thread about it with some videos to keep others from making the same mistake.

 

Downside is that I may have torn the turbo inlet getting the manifold back on, or smoothing out the pulsations made a huge impact to fuel trims. Got them back in line with a slight injector latency tweak, but feels like it might be a band-aid. Going to stop by the rent-a-stall between school and work and smoke the car.

I would be inclined to try and figure out what got wet. That sounds super unpleasant.

 

From limited research on other Subaru forums it looks like some combination of those chassis codes can pop up if water gets into the VDC wire loom in the engine bay. If it happens again while dry then I'll really start to worry. The only other thing I could imagine it being is having LEDs for every exterior light except the low beam. Wonder if they could be messing with the CANBUS system. They are DiodeDynamics and CANBUS compatible, though.

I hit a new speed record today, no hoist with jacks and jackstands on my garage floor.

Changed out front struts and front brakes, 1:20. Now if only the struts I didn't pick up from my importer were outback struts my car wouldn't look funny atm...

 

I'll probably go get the rears within the next day or so. Make an outback sedan for the winter!

Door lock actuator done.

Replaced all 4 injectors with known good ones from a member on here that had a set that were cleaned and flow tested. Seems to have fixed my high A/F learning 1A value and smoothed out my idle some. Banana!

Got my half moons, still have a few more parts and saving and then send her off to get installed.

When car sits for few days I do flood method and crank it twice for 4-5 seconds each time.

 

 

huh... I'll have to start doing this when I start mine every so often.

Definitely a fan of priming the motor like that too after my wagon has sat for over a handful of days. Makes start up smoother, no cranky knocking noises.

 

Speaking of, wagon's going for a new turbo Monday!

Is slime / goo all over the turbo oil drain tube (to engine) typically just a problem with the actual tube or can it be something else I should look around for.

 

Pulling up-pipe / down-pipe anyway so I'll be in the area.

 

Edit: looks like it might be coming from the crush washers above the drain hose.

Edited November 6, 2019 by Rhitter

For others researching YNANSB:

 

I checked with Heuberger Subaru (email address is subaruofcolorado.com) on a short block for my 2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT.

VIN: 4S3BP676X56337331

 

I sent them my VIN # expecting the EJ255 to come back. I asked for both EJ255 and EJ257 price too and acknowledged that if it probably won't be under any warranty if it doesn't match the VIN. . Surprisingly he said

You are correct, putting anything other than the VIN matching part will void the warranty for the part and we wouldn't be able to accept any kind of return.

 

According to Subaru you already have the EJ257 engine (part number 10103AC870 - $1719.99). The EJ255 is part number 10103AC880 and it costs the same. Shipping for either block will be a flat $110.00 to anywhere in the lower 48 states.

 

As other reference points:

 

In talking with a Subaru Specialty shop, they suggested some options sourced from them.

 

$2200 for an STI Type RA short block

 

A custom built short block would be $2,600 (Build to order - in house) + add $350 for Manley forged rods.

-Forged and Nitrated Crankshaft

-King rod bearings

-King main bearings

-STI rods

-Manley Platnium series forged pistons

Edited November 6, 2019 by ashwinearl

Replaced all 4 injectors with known good ones from a member on here that had a set that were cleaned and flow tested. Seems to have fixed my high A/F learning 1A value and smoothed out my idle some. Banana!

 

At just shy of 100K I had idle roughness that was ultimately solved by having the injectors cleaned (I used Deatschwerks that time). Idle stayed smooth for about another 90-100K miles before I noticed it getting slightly lumpy again. It wasn't as blatantly rough as the first time around so I lived with it for a while. Also did the IM/TGV o-rings at 186K to eliminate that possibility. I sourced another set of good used injectors that I could send out for cleaning (I used Witch Hunter this time) and have ready for direct swap to minimize downtime, which I did at 216K. Smooth idle again.

 

It seems reasonable to plan for injector cleaning every 80-100K. Idle quality is where dirty injector symptoms are most likely to show up first, since any dribbly quality to the spray pattern will have a proportionally bigger effect on fuel delivery when pulse widths are short. FWIW I never noticed the dirty injectors (slightly varnished, not plugged up or otherwise damaged) affecting my AF learning values though. A high learned A value on mine has always been a vacuum leak, which will likely exacerbate any injector related issues.

For others researching YNANSB:

 

I checked with Heuberger Subaru (email address is subaruofcolorado.com) on a short block for my 2005 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT.

VIN: 4S3BP676X56337331

 

I sent them my VIN # expecting the EJ255 to come back. I asked for both EJ255 and EJ257 price too and acknowledged that if it probably won't be under any warranty if it doesn't match the VIN. . Surprisingly he said

 

 

As other reference points:

 

In talking with a Subaru Specialty shop, they suggested some options sourced from them.

 

$2200 for an STI Type RA short block

 

A custom built short block would be $2,600 (Build to order - in house) + add $350 for Manley forged rods.

-Forged and Nitrated Crankshaft

-King rod bearings

-King main bearings

-STI rods

-Manley Platnium series forged pistons

 

 

This may be a good post to add to JmP's sticky up top.

What is the part number for the STI type RA short block, and what differs it from a regular ej257 short block?

10103AD020. Reinforced pistons - see here:

 

https://www.comeanddriveit.com/engine/type-ra-vs-sti-internals

 

One curious thing - the motor they tore down had a 705 block casting. Mine was a 706, even though I bought that exact part number, only a year later. Wonder what the update to the block itself was.

This was oil change day, but it was a close call. Trying to get the oil filter off by hand was a lost cause so I had to race to the store to get a filter wrench adapter. The filter is surrounded by heat shields for the exhaust pipes and the filter wrench (the type with a cap the fits a 3/8 inch drive) did the job perfectly.

 

The race was to get the job done before the rains came. The job was done at 4:22 and the rain started at 4:30. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, a new crush washer for the drain plug and an Amzoil EA15K13 filter. These things are getting pricey - the filter was $28.95 with a core charge of $0.50 and $3.83 tax bringing the total to $33.28, all in Canadian dollars.

 

I have a lazy man's way of jacking up the car - I use the stock jack with a 3/4 inch impact socket and an impact wrench. Up and down happens fast. The plug for the sump was tight so I used the impact wrench to loosen it and it immediately almost came out. I couldn't drop it to move the draintainer back into position, so I tightened it again, moved the draintainer back and used a socket to remove the drain plug which was now loose. That could have been a flood of epic proportions.

 

I can feel the difference - the throttle opening that I was used to for maintaining a steady speed now gave me a bit of acceleration and you could back off and it would just glide seemingly forever. All in all, well worth it and I have a 350 km round trip to make on Saturday (210 miles), so fresh oil will be a great idea, as well as the fact that we have two days of rain coming followed by a drop to sub-freezing temperatures.

Wow those filters are triple the cost of an oe one. It was my understanding the oe are pretty decent. What does that one get you?

 

 

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http://www.amsoil.com you can look up the details on the filters/

 

That may have your answer.

 

My cost is $14.28 for the filter.

The OE filter is a rebranded Fram filter with a change to the gasket so it doesn't unscrew itself in operation (like NAPA / Wix filters do). The price for the Amzoil filter was from a local retailer, KAR Auto Parts. There are a number of videos of filters that are cut open and analyzed and the difference in quality was remarkable from the lowly Fram with its cardboard filter element end caps to the Amzoil that looks like the best available quality. Looked at as the cost of protecting an engine, it is cheap insurance.

 

Also, my price was in Canadian dollars and would be the equivalent of US$ 25.29.