Scottydunno Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Isn't this the main purpose of assembly lube? Sent from my moto z3 using TapatalkTo a degree yes. However assembly lube will eventually ooze it's way out and sit in the pan. Main priority is to ensure oil is everywhere before the first start. Last thing anyone wants is to spin a bearing because everything is dry and tight.. Scotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 I love (hate) that there's so many thoughts on engine break in. I get max capacitys thought process there since I can't imagine many imports get plugs pulled and multiple cranks to build oil pressure when they come off the boat. I'm sure a lot of it is more important when building big stuff, but a stock build is probably not as particular. As far as assembly lube, well I think it's been a month since I got the engine back and ranged from something like 70-10 degrees outside, so I'm not trusting to that at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Remember there is a bearing gap, there will be some lube in there. You get oil pressure quicker at 800rpm then you do at cranking rpm. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 I have a semi-local interested in buying the wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) I have a semi-local interested in buying the wagon Don't sell the wagon!! In other news. I added some creature comforts to the old wagon. While MTB in the winter (night riding) I find I could use more light under the hatch...so I wired in a light to the cargo light so it turns on with the door opening only. Also swapped out for the later model tail lights...I am indifferent on whether I like the clear or amber more. Also added cargo net hooks for added storage / convenience Edited October 31, 2019 by jaylew Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 I've been having problems with my hath light not turning on. Do you know where the trigger for it is? I don't want to just start pulling panels and tracing wires since my whole cargo area is already super rattle-y. Dod you splice into wires under the headliner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Does the cargo light still turn on if you switch it to always on? And yeah I connected the new light that I installed on the hatch door, to power and the ground that is switched by the door opening (light blue and black). All at the harness in the headliner by the cargo light Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) Slight PITA changing gear oil the first time on a specB 6mt, but didn't know when the fluid was last done and had some ExtraS sitting around. The rear diff was easy, but I filled up what seemed like 1.25-1.5 liters of fluid. Rear end up on ramps, but still seemed like a lot compared to what I read was full. The front end was pretty crappy. Dipstick was frozen in the trans tube, took 30 minutes freeing that, and then I didn't want to round off the one drain plug and only drained the T70 plug. And then I over filled the trans by at least a liter. Edited October 31, 2019 by BoozeRS05 EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Does the cargo light still turn on if you switch it to always on? And yeah I connected the new light that I installed on the hatch door, to power and the ground that is switched by the door opening (light blue and black). All at the harness in the headliner by the cargo light It used to. But it didn't turn on when the door was opened. Now it doesn't turn on when I switch it to always on, so I suspect the wires are getting old and brittle. I was hoping to not have to drop the headliner, but it looks like I'll have to do that. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 It used to. But it didn't turn on when the door was opened. Now it doesn't turn on when I switch it to always on' date=' so I suspect the wires are getting old and brittle. I was hoping to not have to drop the headliner, but it looks like I'll have to do that. Thanks![/quote'] Getting to that part of the headliner is actually super easy. And I'd check the fuse running to that light, or the light bulb itself. There could be something wrong with the switch. Shouldn't be difficult to figure out Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 I love (hate) that there's so many thoughts on engine break in. I get max capacitys thought process there since I can't imagine many imports get plugs pulled and multiple cranks to build oil pressure when they come off the boat. I'm sure a lot of it is more important when building big stuff, but a stock build is probably not as particular. As far as assembly lube, well I think it's been a month since I got the engine back and ranged from something like 70-10 degrees outside, so I'm not trusting to that at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk My point exactly. I don't want to assume that the assembly lube used during engine build is still in place, and that it'll be enough to maintain bearing clearances during first start. I'd rather spin the motor using the starter, with no compression in the cylinders, until I register oil pressure at the pump discharge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Well I don't have an oil pressure gauge. And I don't have any money left haha. And I don't have a built motor. Like there is a good chance I didn't even need the ARP head studs if the block doesn't start pulling apart until around 18+ psi like I've read. So I think there is a lot of variability. It's a shame the oil pressure light in the car registers so low as to be useless. And if I understand the diagram, it's one of the first places to get oil. Could you do something like, prime the crank and cams through the pcv and breather system? Just spit balling, I just know they go to that area, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 You could keep the turbo feed line disconnected and in a cup or something and crank until you see oil flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Just a thought, could you also build oil pressure using the flood clear start? Start car with foot to the floor WOT, it will crank and build oil pressure but not start... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 You could keep the turbo feed line disconnected and in a cup or something and crank until you see oil flow That is a phenomenal idea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 There's also this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html http://i.imgur.com/w71tePZ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 There's also this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html http://i.imgur.com/w71tePZ.jpg Oh I missed this one! Yea that's gonna happen. Rally sport is local shop if I can't find the fitting, I can at least get an adapter. I'm hoping I can start it up tomorrow. Starting to get anxious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 There's also this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html http://i.imgur.com/w71tePZ.jpg Amazing thanks so much for posting this! I was trying to figure out how I could add oil and pressurize it through everything before inital startup on the new engine. Depot is on my way home from the office, so I'll be stopping by! 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Went by home depot and they didn't have the fitting. The nearby plumbing supply store didn't either and were out of npt ones as well. Ordered it on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Just a thought, could you also build oil pressure using the flood clear start? Start car with foot to the floor WOT, it will crank and build oil pressure but not start... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk I've used this method after a turbo install and again after my car sat for 8 months for winter work. Just trickle charge the battery before hand and then crank for like 20 seconds. Turkeylord, that is also a solid plan for a brand new engine. Is that just through the oil pressure sensor port? Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 (edited) I love (hate) that there's so many thoughts on engine break in. I get max capacitys thought process there since I can't imagine many imports get plugs pulled and multiple cranks to build oil pressure when they come off the boat. I'm sure a lot of it is more important when building big stuff, but a stock build is probably not as particular. As far as assembly lube, well I think it's been a month since I got the engine back and ranged from something like 70-10 degrees outside, so I'm not trusting to that at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Once I had the oil in the engine, I turned the engine slowly by hand. Attached my 1/2 wheel torque wrench from HF to crank pulley and gave the engine 8-10 complete turns going very slow. You can feel when oil hits the internals, it gets a lot easier to turn. When car sits for few days I do flood method and crank it twice for 4-5 seconds each time. Edited November 2, 2019 by SubOperator 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Oil change, winter wheel install and repaired my recently failed downpipe to midpipe flange gasket today. Really odd how that gasket failed. I drove the car, it sat for two days, get in and have a huge exhaust leak. I almost want to blame someone Fu&+$#g with my car.....the flanges are in nice shape, as are the studs in the dp. Weird. Anywho, replaced with a Felpro jobber, new nuts and lock washers. Had to use the AP3 to clear the codes and turn off CEL amongst the others that popped up. All better now. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Turkeylord, that is also a solid plan for a brand new engine. Is that just through the oil pressure sensor port? Yep, exactly. I got my dip stick tube o-rings replaced (PITA) and got the undertray replaced. Now I’m just waiting for a door lock actuator to come in and it’s all set for the new owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Also, does this thing belong with the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Up Pipe has a crack init. I paid the money for the Cobb catless up pipe 4 years ago hoping to avoid things like this. Still trying to diagnose smoke after idle and at WOT. Has anyone experienced valve seals being the cause? The turbo is a rebuilt JMP with 60k on it. It is not making any noise and reaches boost fine. We are replacing the PCV to be safe, but it was replaced about 60k ago too. If it is something deeper in the engine, like valve seals, it seems like the money spent in labor for that would justify just going big and do the whole short block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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