What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

So after having the AP mounted in this location, I've come to not like it. Not sure if I mounted it too high or what, but my left hand blocks 3/4 of it. I may try sticking one of the metal plates that came with the mount to the back of the AP so it will drop down.

 

The only other option I see is mounting out outside the steering wheel area (to the left or right). Or, it may go right back to where it was with the vent mount.

 

I put that mount on the bottom of the trim instead of the side. I can see the entire display when driving, but my hands are at the 9 and 3 position.

I put that mount on the bottom of the trim instead of the side. I can see the entire display when driving, but my hands are at the 9 and 3 position.

 

I'm noticing that is probably what I should have done. I guess we will see how hard it is to remove.

I noticed today when I turning to the left that my car was making metal rubbing sound. With the windows down it sounds like it is coming from the front left. I will have to further diagnose it this weekend, but I suspect it might be the wheel bearing. Good thing is that I have multiple cars.

I'm noticing that is probably what I should have done. I guess we will see how hard it is to remove.

 

 

 

After work I was able to peel the mount off the cluster surround (mid 90’s today) and stuck it on the flat part at the bottom. Will try it like this for a few days and decide then. Doubt the adhesive will last long after pulling it off.

 

 

 

 

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I put mine here but always drive with my hands in 9-3 or 10-2, never higher. No problem seeing the whole AP.

After work I was able to peel the mount off the cluster surround (mid 90’s today) and stuck it on the flat part at the bottom. Will try it like this for a few days and decide then. Doubt the adhesive will last long after pulling it off.

 

 

 

 

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Worse comes to worse, you could get some double sided 3M Tape and use that to stick it...

In case some of you didn't know from Facebook, I sent off my OEM charge pipe to a company who will be doing an aftermarket unit since the racerX model is no longer available. Stay tuned over there for the group by when it happens. I'm not in charge of it so please don't pm me with questions, as I didn't didn't coordinate it. I simply offered to send mine since i don't need it.

 

Hey S2 you have any update on this? sorry i don't have facebook so I'm not able to keep track of it there. I had hopes that i could get this before getting a tune this fall but i totally understand that reverse engineering can be a real bitch especially when going from a more flexible material to a stiffer less forgiving one.

I haven't let me message the gentleman and see what he has to say about it

I haven't let me message the gentleman and see what he has to say about it

 

thanks S2, you the dude.

 

on another note, today i topped up the oil AGAIN in, not mine **collective sigh of relief** but, my GF's 3.6R OB. I'm going to change the oil/filter in it tomorrow morning and throw in 5w-40 Castrol to see if i can get this thing to burn less than 2q per 5000 miles. since the last change i've put in 2.5q and I don't even know if there's 4k on it yet. anyone have any good reasons why i should stick with 5w-30? and if so any ideas to quell consumption.

He replied back. Hasn't heard from them in the last 2weeks. No ETA for finished product

thanks S2, you the dude.

 

on another note, today i topped up the oil AGAIN in, not mine **collective sigh of relief** but, my GF's 3.6R OB. I'm going to change the oil/filter in it tomorrow morning and throw in 5w-40 Castrol to see if i can get this thing to burn less than 2q per 5000 miles. since the last change i've put in 2.5q and I don't even know if there's 4k on it yet. anyone have any good reasons why i should stick with 5w-30? and if so any ideas to quell consumption.

 

You should keep in mind the oil passages for the chain tensioning system are very small in order to work effectively it relies on the correct viscosity of oil as the oil system is what keeps the chain tensioned. More pressure is not always good, as it may indicate a less oil flow into the actuator due to increased viscosity. I did notice more noise when we switched our tribeca to 5w-40 vs 5w-30. It was enough of a concern that I switched it back. I am assuming it isn't burning enough to warrant a block replacement or its way out of the extended warranty.

Edited September 14, 2019 by FLlegacy

You should keep in mind the oil passages for the chain tensioning system are very small in order to work effectively it relies on the correct viscosity of oil as the oil system is what keeps the chain tensioned. More pressure is not always good, as it may indicate a less oil flow into the actuator due to increased viscosity. I did notice more noise when we switched our tribeca to 5w-40 vs 5w-30. It was enough of a concern that I switched it back. I am assuming it isn't burning enough to warrant a block replacement or its way out of the extended warranty.

 

Her car only has 60k on it, I don't think that hers is included in the warranty block replacements because it's a 2012 but I'm going to go check on that again.

Dropped her off for parking brake recall. I really wanted to not like the loaner, 2019 legacy, but it's actually quite good.

 

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Ripstick have you changed the PCV in her 3.6 OB?

Dropped her off for parking brake recall. I really wanted to not like the loaner, 2019 legacy, but it's actually quite good.

 

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I know our '18 is so much quieter than our '11.

I know our '18 is so much quieter than our '11.

 

The real question is whether or not quiet is better

The real question is whether or not quiet is better

Without a doubt its better, lol.

 

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I noticed today when I turning to the left that my car was making metal rubbing sound. With the windows down it sounds like it is coming from the front left. I will have to further diagnose it this weekend, but I suspect it might be the wheel bearing. Good thing is that I have multiple cars.

 

What did you find? I had a scraping noise when hard left and above ~10 MPH. Mine was coming from right front. Found a small mark on the brake rotor dust shield where it contacted the rusty edge of the rotor. Bent the shield away from the rotor a little and all was well. I suspect I had bent the shield when replacing wheel studs over the summer.

What did you find? I had a scraping noise when hard left and above ~10 MPH. Mine was coming from right front. Found a small mark on the brake rotor dust shield where it contacted the rusty edge of the rotor. Bent the shield away from the rotor a little and all was well. I suspect I had bent the shield when replacing wheel studs over the summer.

 

It sort of seems like the brake shield. (I changed the rotors 1800 miles ago.)

 

I jacked the front end of the car up and confirmed that it was the drivers front making noise, but it didn't feel like a bad wheel bearing when I was spinning the tire. I was going to bleed the brakes this weekend and look into it further, but it unexpectedly rained while I was doing maintenance on my Outback and I ran out of time.

Ripstick have you changed the PCV in her 3.6 OB?

 

no i haven't, could it be losing that much oil through the PCV? i figured most of it would end up back in the engine, all though i guess its goes to the intake. I'll pull the hose off of it tonight. i guess if it's full of oil I'll just replace it and see what happens.

Edited September 16, 2019 by ripstik

Got a few updates to catch up on. Received my Carbotech track pads and Kartboy endlinks. Installed both front and rear Kartboy endlinks. Installs are easy and straight-forward, I love how beefy they are and how simple, I don't want to mess with adjustable endlinks. The hardest part of the install was having to cut off my factory rear endlinks. Should've done these long ago. Previously had 15+ STI Moogs on the front, the Kartboys are way better. As these endlinks are for the 08-14 STI, there are extra 1/2" spacers needed for the 10-14 Legacy application for the fronts only. These spacers allow the endlinks to line up dead vertical, but the caveat to this is that you need to get longer bolts. The kit comes with M10x1.5 70mm, you need 75mm or 80mm to get full thread engagement with the nuts. Last picture is after I swapped the bolts to longer ones. The rears installed exactly as shown in a video guide I followed for the STI install.

Installed some of my Cusco chassis braces recently as well. Got the Front Member plates and Rear Member bar installed. Installs were super easy and I'm mad I waited so long to do this. The rear bar adds a nice little stiffness to the back, but WOW the main event is these plates! They tie the front and rear of the chassis together at an additional point and my god does it make a noticeable difference. The entire car feels like way more of one cohesive unit from front to back, and cornering feels amazing with these. Shocked how big of a difference they've made. I'd wager that these should honestly almost be like the second stiffness upgrade a 5th gen should do after a rear sway bar, they're that impactive. To install these, just make sure to have the chassis well enough supported, a quick jack or any lift will be enough, but I'd recommend having all 4 wheels off the ground to do these, and just do one at a time. Torque specs for the plate bolts/nuts is 75 ft/lbs, while the rear bar is 120 ft/lbs. Still have the Rear Side Member bars and Rear Sway Bar braces to install yet.

Hit 90k on Friday.

Installed some of my Cusco chassis braces recently as well. Got the Front Member plates and Rear Member bar installed. Installs were super easy and I'm mad I waited so long to do this. The rear bar adds a nice little stiffness to the back, but WOW the main event is these plates! They tie the front and rear of the chassis together at an additional point and my god does it make a noticeable difference. The entire car feels like way more of one cohesive unit from front to back, and cornering feels amazing with these. Shocked how big of a difference they've made. I'd wager that these should honestly almost be like the second stiffness upgrade a 5th gen should do after a rear sway bar, they're that impactive. To install these, just make sure to have the chassis well enough supported, a quick jack or any lift will be enough, but I'd recommend having all 4 wheels off the ground to do these, and just do one at a time. Torque specs for the plate bolts/nuts is 75 ft/lbs, while the rear bar is 120 ft/lbs. Still have the Rear Side Member bars and Rear Sway Bar braces to install yet.

 

Humble, how is NVH with these so far?

 

I am looking into bracing and love the concept of the STI tS stuff with flex joints to minimize NVH.

 

EDIT: about the front member, IIRC there is already a factory support that bolts on to that location? IIRC it is a lot thinner and only held on by a bolt on each end though, unlike the 3 bolts the Cusco uses.

 

Will look for pics, I have them I think.

 

EDIT: Pics of OE braces. Attached with three bolts but the third in a different spot:

 

 

 

 

My car has a brace in that area already, do the US cars have these too?

 

If you have the OE braces, is the Cusco installed in conjunction with the OE braces or does it replace them?

Edited September 17, 2019 by Scubaboo

That sounds familiar, I think the Sport trim cars got that piece. Couldn't tell you where it shows up in Subaru's parts book, but I know enough to say you're not making that up.

 

Edit: found it! https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5839384&postcount=1187

Edited September 17, 2019 by cww516