Blown head gasket?

Okay so you guys might remember me posting about my rear axle clip then saying I smelt coolant coming from my exhaust. Then how I took it to Subaru and they said it was a blown head gasket and it had oil leaks. Got a few questions about what you guys think. I don’t smell the coolant anymore. When I first smelt the coolant the week before hand I did fill up the coolant reservoir and didn’t touch the car after I filled it up. And when I did start it up it did smell like coolant and the reservoir was empty. Now that I think of it the smell might of actually been from coolant that got spilled on the exhaust manifold and that was just left to dry on it while I did use it. But for the reservoir being empty that part I’m still confused about so was wondering what you guys think? Air bubbles, coolant leak, head gasket blown? Also if the head gasket was bad between the combustion chamber and the coolant passages I thought there was suppose to be air bubbles in the reservoir. While the car was running there was none and driving it pretty hard and coming back home I rechecked and still no bubbles.

 

Second they said my car was leaking a lot of oil. Now I don’t think that my car isn’t leaking oil but they was they said it is check my oil daily because it is pouring out oil. My oil has yet to move it’s still at full.

 

Any idea where to go from here? I didn’t rent a kit to see if there really is any combustion chamber fumes in the coolant but I will be doing that tomorrow. But if there isn’t any what do you guys think I should do from there? I have the entire head gasket kit, arp head studs, and was going to get oem timing belt kit with a new tensioner and water pump. If my head gaskets are good should I go ahead and replace everything anyways? Or just keep the stuff on hand and wait until I really need it?

 

Thinking this was just one of those moments the dealership just tried to scam a load of money from me but curious on what you guys think.

 

EDIT: also forgot to mention my coolant looks fine green no rust or particles I can see in it. My oil also looks fine it’s not a milkshake nothing on the bottom of my oil cap nothing leading me to believe it’s a oil to coolant leak.

Edited May 5, 2019 by Ninjacheezit

What car? A GT has or 2.5i?

 

GT’s are not known for HG leaks

It’s a gt. But it’s a reman engine from LKQ and basically all their reviews online say the engines start leaking something within 1000 miles

I have the entire head gasket kit, arp head studs, and was going to get oem timing belt kit with a new tensioner and water pump. If my head gaskets are good should I go ahead and replace everything anyways? Or just keep the stuff on hand and wait until I really need it?

.

 

 

Just keep it on hand, don't do anything yet. The dealer might be right there could be the initial stages of a head gasket leak but I'd wait for it to become obvious. Could be another year of driving before you really need it done.

Just keep it on hand, don't do anything yet. The dealer might be right there could be the initial stages of a head gasket leak but I'd wait for it to become obvious. Could be another year of driving before you really need it done.

 

I just rented a block tester at autozone. I’ll see what that shows tomorrow don’t feel like doing it in the dark haha.

I know you mention in another thread that you didn't really want to, but in your shoes I'd just warranty that lkq reman engine and get a replacement one. Maybe have the tech replace the rear main seal before he installs it to at least eliminate one oil leak spot that's hard to access.

I know you mention in another thread that you didn't really want to, but in your shoes I'd just warranty that lkq reman engine and get a replacement one. Maybe have the tech replace the rear main seal before he installs it to at least eliminate one oil leak spot that's hard to access.

 

Sadly, I actually tried to have LKQ warranty it when the dealership said I had oil leaks and a bad head gasket. They told me since I didn’t buy the engine that the warranty doesn’t transfer from person to person. The place I bought the car from bought the engine and had it installed. Also tried to see what my car warranty would cover and they didn’t want to cover Subaru’s 15 hours of labor for head gaskets which is why I decided it be better if I just did it myself. I’ve done suby head gaskets before not on a turbo legacy gt but on a 99 gt and a 98 Legacy

Also just Used the block tester kit. The fluid stayed blue. But it said do it for 2 minutes I couldn’t do it for two minutes because eventually the tester would just suck in coolant. I removed as much coolant as I could grab with a siphon. About 2-3 inches below the rad cap but it would just expand and get sucked in the tester in about a minute. I tried it multiple times. One test I’m guessing I sucked all the air out of the rad and the bulb wouldn’t even squeeze anymore without pushing the blue fluid out. Safe to say no leak? Or am I using this tester wrong?

I just had this problem. Probably an air bubble in the system. Do a proper "burping" of the system and see what happens. It'll suck the reservoir dry when there's a air pocket in there. Do you hear a water gurgling noise when you start it up?

Seems like a "blown head gasket" and "burping of the coolant system" will share similar symptoms. I'd rule that out before you go the head gasket route. BTW, it took me like 5 times to properly do this procedure, and I'm still not %100 convinced I did it right. lol

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coolant-bleeding-278686.html

The cooling system on these engines is hard to bleed. Also, if it's "leaking oil" they're probably talking about the oil that typically leaks between the head and block on the bottom driver's side. It takes a very small quantity of 'leaked oil' to make a large mess there. You would never miss that quantity over the course of a normal oil change interval - but it will make a large mess there. Often times it'll get on the exhaust, too - and smoke when you're at a stop light. It's delightful. I have had random good luck with tightening down on the head bolts to get this to stop in the past. Doesn't always work, but sometimes it does. Do NOT loosen the head bolts and then re-torque them. If you decide to do this the best mode of attack is to just tighten down on them a bit. Sometimes they'll move easily, sometimes they won't. If they seem stuck, don't force them.

I just had this problem. Probably an air bubble in the system. Do a proper "burping" of the system and see what happens. It'll suck the reservoir dry when there's a air pocket in there. Do you hear a water gurgling noise when you start it up?

Seems like a "blown head gasket" and "burping of the coolant system" will share similar symptoms. I'd rule that out before you go the head gasket route. BTW, it took me like 5 times to properly do this procedure, and I'm still not %100 convinced I did it right. lol

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coolant-bleeding-278686.html

 

Actually yes I do have a gurgling noise when I start the car up. It’s kind of a gurgling but it also just sounds like water/coolant running through pipes. Is that what you mean?

The cooling system on these engines is hard to bleed. Also, if it's "leaking oil" they're probably talking about the oil that typically leaks between the head and block on the bottom driver's side. It takes a very small quantity of 'leaked oil' to make a large mess there. You would never miss that quantity over the course of a normal oil change interval - but it will make a large mess there. Often times it'll get on the exhaust, too - and smoke when you're at a stop light. It's delightful. I have had random good luck with tightening down on the head bolts to get this to stop in the past. Doesn't always work, but sometimes it does. Do NOT loosen the head bolts and then re-torque them. If you decide to do this the best mode of attack is to just tighten down on them a bit. Sometimes they'll move easily, sometimes they won't. If they seem stuck, don't force them.

 

Thanks I’ll have a look there. They did say it was my drivers side cam carrier leaking(which these cars don’t even have cam carriers)

Actually yes I do have a gurgling noise when I start the car up. It’s kind of a gurgling but it also just sounds like water/coolant running through pipes. Is that what you mean?

 

Yep. That gurgling or water noise means there's an air pocket floating around in your system, and your car isn't really cooling itself like it should. I'd make are all your hoses aren't leaking first. The ones I'd look at first are right where the turbo reservoir connects to the turbo piping. If that area looks crusty and gross, (that could be another thread...) But seriously, I replaced that turbo reservoir's upper hose, cleaned it up, and made sure it was all tight and not leaking. If that area looks like crap, you might want to consider replacing the inlet hose. (that job sucks!) But that's not related to the problem you described.

 

If all your hoses are good and sealed, and there are quite a few, I'd even get a cooling diagram and make sure you visually inspect them all.

 

I'd get new radiator caps(both) and a thermostat from Subaru(OEM) and then do a proper burping. After doing the burping, go easy on her for a few days (no full boost) until you're sure the coolant is at a steady level in the reservoir. You'll have to drain the coolant to replace the thermostat, just pull the lower radiator hose, by the engine side. In that housing is the thermostat. It's not a difficult job, and I think it's good to have that peace of mind. Just make sure it's a dealership part.

 

The oil leaking is pretty normal. These cars do use oil, and tend to leak them too. Whatever, just make sure to check the oil and top it off every other week.

 

A shop or dealership will tell you/convince you your HG is broken, just to get the job. It's big money. They'll also replace the radiator caps, thermostat and hoses while they're in there. There'll be no way you'll know if it was the radiator caps, thermostat and a couple of leaking hoses all along. Even if they take it apart, look at the gasket and see it's fine, they're not going to tell you. So, it's my opinion that you should do all you can before you go that route.

 

Right? Just think how the cooling system works, it needs to be sealed(hoses, radiator, heater core) so no unwanted air gets in there, and the parts involved need to be functioning properly.(thermostat, water pump, caps) If it's not functioning, or there is a blockage somewhere, that's not a head gasket issue, but it will mimic those symptoms.

Edited May 8, 2019 by Jolbaru_LGT

Great thanks I did notice the upper hose from the turbo did look a little nasty like it was slightly leaking might go ahead and replace that then and go from there

Great thanks I did notice the upper hose from the turbo did look a little nasty like it was slightly leaking might go ahead and replace that then and go from there

 

Yeah, on mine that hose leakage degraded the inlet tube right directly underneath it. Hopefully yours is ok, but I’d keep an eye on it. Replacing the inlet tube is not a fun job, but with that compromised, it can bring in unregulated air as it’s right after the MAF. Which can cause a slew of engine issues, power loss and poor mileage.

Yeah, on mine that hose leakage degraded the inlet tube right directly underneath it. Hopefully yours is ok, but I’d keep an eye on it. Replacing the inlet tube is not a fun job, but with that compromised, it can bring in unregulated air as it’s right after the MAF. Which can cause a slew of engine issues, power loss and poor mileage.

 

That wouldn’t be too bad I have a Cobb one coming in the mail so I planned on doing that job soon enough lol

Try this. Have someone keep your RPM's at 4k. Keep all the caps on and make sure the coolant is full. Then open the reservoir and look for bubbles. In many cases, there will be no bubbles at idle or even at 2k or 3k RPM's. In the starting stages, the caps will be able to keep up with the gasses entering the cooling system. But eventually it will overheat because all the combustion gas will create air pockets. Many shops will call it head gaskets when it's not so people don't trust them. Something as simple as a leaky radiator cap can cause overheating. Also a pinhole in a coolant hose can cause loss of coolant that you can't see or in many cases smell. Buy a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it to 18 and see where/if it leaks.

 

Subieguys.com

Try this. Have someone keep your RPM's at 4k. Keep all the caps on and make sure the coolant is full. Then open the reservoir and look for bubbles. In many cases, there will be no bubbles at idle or even at 2k or 3k RPM's. In the starting stages, the caps will be able to keep up with the gasses entering the cooling system. But eventually it will overheat because all the combustion gas will create air pockets. Many shops will call it head gaskets when it's not so people don't trust them. Something as simple as a leaky radiator cap can cause overheating. Also a pinhole in a coolant hose can cause loss of coolant that you can't see or in many cases smell. Buy a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it to 18 and see where/if it leaks.

 

Subieguys.com

 

Yeah, I was getting major bubbles in the expansion tank, and even green foamy froth. Looked like green latte foam. After driving hard, I pulled over and listened around. I heard a slight hiss from the radiator cap that I just replaced. I moved it around a bit by loosening and tightening until the hissing stopped. My guess is that the rubber wasn’t 100% seated properly. After I did that, no more bubbles, froth or anything, just calm green fluid in the expansion tank. My guess is that the little bit of unsealed rubber on the radiator cap was causing this. The system is pretty solid now, knock on wood.

The slight hiss from radiator cap might be normal? I had large bubbles and a bit of a hiss, and it's possible that it's normal, I was kinda stepping on it. Sorry to highjack your thread

The slight hiss from radiator cap might be normal? I had large bubbles and a bit of a hiss, and it's possible that it's normal, I was kinda stepping on it. Sorry to highjack your thread

 

It’s no problem. So far mine hasn’t been losing coolant I get an occasional smell of coolant might be a little bit that spilled. But I replaced the hose that went from my turbo to the coolant tank and I bought a no spill funnel and bleed the system two times just to make sure. So far so good the loud gurgling noise is gone I do hear it a little bit but it’s gone within a few seconds before it would go for minutes. Did find out the hard way whoever put this engine in stripped the bolt holes for my driver side fuel rail -_- but that’s a different story.

So, just an observation, also I too was hearing the water noise after I did the exhausting "burping" procedure. I thought, why wouldn't I be able to just open the turbo filler tank and just burp it out when it's cold?

So, today I started my car up, and heard the "water noise" I immediately turned it off, opened the hood and opened the turbo filler tank's cap. Almost dry. So, I put the funnel in and filled it with some coolant till it was full. Then squeezed the upper radiator hose until all the air bubbles were out. filled up the turbo tank and sealed it up. Started it up and no more water noise.

We'll see how it turns out. Kind of just an experiment. But, based on the viewpoints of others here, you DON'T have to go through that goofy "burping" idle-till-fans-turn-on process to get all of the air out of the system. If everything is good with your system, it should level itself out under normal driving. Key is do that fill and squeeze when it's cold only. (Don't ask me how I found that out) But if there is excess coolant in the system, be aware it will fill up the coolant reservoir and spit it out until an equilibrium is reached.

Also, it might be a good idea to take a jug of pre-mixed Subaru coolant with you and an old turkey baster and every-time you stop, see where the level's at. At times, it was WAY too full and other times it was dry. I'm sure the coolant you were smelling was the coolant reservoir being too full, and the system hasn't leveled itself out yet. When it expands, it will go out of the coolant tank's cap and onto the bottom of the belly pan. I'd also flush that with a bit of water when it's cold. I just made sure the coolant level was at "full" when the engine was completely cold, or a bit over "full" when the car was hot. I'm sure you'll know when it's leveled and good.

Here's a link with a nice diagram to explain how unsealed reservoirs (expansion tanks) and the radiator caps work. Apparently, some bubbles and foam in the coolant tank would be normal, depending on how you drive, or however hot the system gets. Bubbles I'm thinking isn't a sign of a head gasket leak, per se, just the radiator cap opening up and letting air out of the system via the coolant reservoir.

 

https://blog.championcooling.com/2018/06/08/overflow-tank-vs-expansion-tank/

Edited May 12, 2019 by Jolbaru_LGT

The burping process is not hard at all, just time consuming. I have done it on many subies including legacy. I also run Amsoil coolant. Love it. No problems every