2000 Strut, tie rod, control arm replacement

Hi all, I just scored a 2000 Outback Wagon Sportsman edition for $350. It's a project. It has front end issues (passenger side tire rubbing wheel-well after owner's wife hit a curb) and an impending need for new head gaskets. Timing belt, water pump and alternator are new. I'm going to pull the wheel and see what's bent. After sorting out the front end I'm going to attempt pulling the motor to replace head gaskets. I'll be sending it out to be re surfaced and tested.

 

Question is, where is the best place to buy parts? Has anyone replaced struts, tie rods or control arms before? And what other damage should I look for? And does anyone know what the "Sportsman" editions means as far as options. It's loaded with heated seats, electric everything, block heater. Any other perks?

Edited March 9, 2020 by Candy

I got ditched by a road rager years ago and bent some stuff up front.

 

Your control arm is bent. Do the arm and the bushings that go with it. I would just do the ball joint to be safe. The sway bar might be bent but mine was ok, so maybe not. Check the sway bar end link and the mount bushing. I did my tie rod end preemptively like the ball joint. Check the inner tie rod for straight, but it's probably fine. Check the control arm mounting points for straight, but in my experience the control arm seemed to be designed to fail to protect the mounting points from damage. Mine also cost me front and rear wheels, but I'm sure you've already seen/felt that if it's relevant.

 

 

 

 

 

Prize for whoever can diagnose from these photos!

Can you recommend a supplier for the control arm and bushings?

Been a long time now, but I tend to hoard bookmarks. I think I got the control arm from https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/ The control arm came with the front bushing in already, and that weird big rear pivot yin-yang looking thing is a separate part.

 

From the pics I'd say you have the same problem as I had. The control arm is caved in behind the wheel half way between the ball joint and the rear pivot bushing. Looks like the rest of things are ok, but if it were mine I'd do the outer tie rod end and the ball joint. It's a pretty bad day if one of those separates while you are cruising down the highway.

Thanks, I ordered the control arm, it should arrive Wednesday. We'll see how installation goes. I'll inspect the other parts.

As an Arizona car owner, the install was pretty easy. You'll want a breaker bar for enough torque, and jack stands so you don't pull the car off the jack and a ball joint puller, but otherwise simple. If you're in Michigan or such, then it will be rather more difficult. Look up a video about stuck ball joints if that is the case.

 

After that, swing by an alignment shop.

Finished!!! After they sent the wrong control arm, I finally got the right one. I installed it, along with inner and outer tie rods and the ball joint. After inspecting the parts I took out, the inner tie rod was also bent. I am posting an interesting side by side of the old and replacement control arms, and an after of the completed repair.

 

 

 

with the tire rubbing the back of the wheel well

 

Good work! That's pretty much how my control arm looked from going sideways into a ditch. The control arm sacrificed itself to save the rest of my front parts, and the rear wheel bent to save the other rear parts.

 

I can't say Subaru designed the front control arms to sacrifice on purpose, but I wouldn't put it past them. If it didn't do that, it would bend the mounting points for the control arm and strut top and the car would probably be totaled. As it is it's a fairly simple and cheap job to get back to 100%.

Totally satisfying in these uncertain times. Thanks for the support. I was going to post a pic of the inner tie rod. The top of is is slightly bent. I think the Strut is OK. We'll see once I get the engine back together and take it for a ride.

When my front wheel was looking just like yours and I did this repair, I ran that same strut for several years afterward. Keep aware for clicking sounds from that strut's top hat bearing while turning the steering wheel, or loss of fluid from the strut and you'll be fine. If you end up needing to do the strut or bearing, then do both fronts at least. But I doubt you will need to. The strut has enough articulation to live through that kind of thing. The exact parts you have replaced are the ones that can't deal with that kind of impact.