YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 ***RESOLVED NEW INTAKE GASKETS*** Lol 3 years now that I have had this car in the winter and the following happens 1. car runs rough 2. car runs rich 3. hesitation 4. slow to warm up 5. higher than normal RPM even what car is in normal operating temp range Things that have been replaced 1.MAF 2. Supposedly the T-stat 2. front O2 sensor I need a Subaru tech to walk me through some things I need to be looking for while the car is cold and warming up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoTone Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Do you have winter fuel where you are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Frustrating I’m sure. I’ve heard that the RPMs will stay elevated until CVT oil reaches ~160 degrees which takes a looooong time in the cold. Wonder if you have a cracked vacuum line fitting that only leaks under certain temps. (Like my bugeye wrx that had a fuel leak only when the fittings/hoses were under ~20 degrees.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 Do you have winter fuel where you are? Yes, we do Frustrating I’m sure. I’ve heard that the RPMs will stay elevated until CVT oil reaches ~160 degrees which takes a looooong time in the cold. Wonder if you have a cracked vacuum line fitting that only leaks under certain temps. (Like my bugeye wrx that had a fuel leak only when the fittings/hoses were under ~20 degrees.) I override the car by using the paddles/shifter and locking it into the ratio I want when the coolant temp gets to 170ish. One thing odd that I saw is EGR never moved off of 0% when driving.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 You seeing any knock events, or hearing any pinging? A stuck EGR valve could potentially cause the issues you're seeing, I suppose. I don't have one to tell you where to look or how to test it, but I'd imagine it should be easy enough to see if it's stuck closed (once you get to it, at least). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capttris Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 are you 100% sure you are getting up to normal operating temp? Those symptoms sound like a (partially) stuck-open thermostat and cold engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 IIRC you have the ability to datalog your ecm. You should be able to determine from your logs on whether the thermostat is working properly. The coolant temperature after 10-15 minutes should be around the thermostat temperature. You said the engine runs rich, it is normal the 1st couple minutes that it runs rich. What does the long term fuel trim look like when its running rich? Your car had some coolant overflow issue/heat and their was a question on wether or not the head gasket was blown (leaking). Has any of those symptom persisted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 I am working on it.... btssm does not work with my obdlinx lx... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Have you seen this reflash info? Although your 2014 might have come with the update vs a 2013... https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-2014/361258-reflash-hesitation-surging.html#/topics/361258?page=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 car software is current Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Define winter where you live? It is not uncommon for a new thermostat to be bad. It is also not uncommon for people to put the wrong temp thermostat in as well. I would start there as it s a "supposedly" but as dgoodhue said, data logs would be very helpful to monitor what is going on, but you are working on that. How old is your battery? I just replaced mine last night ans noticed a difference in starting and headlight brightness and that was with a Group 25 replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 Temps are single digits... car barely gets 26mpg on highway at 60 should be over 30... sometime it stumbles when idling cold after you are stopped. Lots or soot on tail pipe... Battery is 2 months old napa gold... made by Dekka OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Well that is cold. So does it stumble as your coming to a stop or after you have fully stopped? Is the tach dropping in rpms and st stumbling to catch idle and over a few seconds it stabilizes some and then smooths out? What you describe sound like a vacuum leak, a bad PCV valve, or EGR leak/issues. Also, winter fuel is proven to get worse fuel economy, but I don't think that's your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 well someone lied to me previously and said car software was current... it was not. they updated it today... car runs better will see in am... mpg seems to be improved back up to 28.x mpg from 22.x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Would be interested to see if the ECU reset has anything to do with that, and if it re-learns its bad behavior. Hopefully that's not the case, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 well the stumbling issue remains, it flashed the CEL a few times and then it was fine. No codes stored in the system so....but fuel mileage and cold weather operation are better than before. BTSSM still will not connect to the ECM so that software is a big fat bust and not worth the $15 I paid for it. All other OBDII readers I have work just fine with the Linx adapter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 well the stumbling issue remains, it flashed the CEL a few times and then it was fine. No codes stored in the system so....but fuel mileage and cold weather operation are better than before. BTSSM still will not connect to the ECM so that software is a big fat bust and not worth the $15 I paid for it. All other OBDII readers I have work just fine with the Linx adapter Btssm works with just a basic VAG-com cable on mine. Data logs everything I need. Should be supported for link lx on k-line. Shoot an email to developer. Quick to respond if you need help from my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 connected up to car this morning drive to work and of course it runs fine. did notice that commanded EGR still never changes from 0% which is odd even after engine has fully warmed up Commanded EGR -- Tells you what the PCM is commanding the EGR valve to do. The percentage value should be 0% when EGR is commanded off (at idle), 100% when EGR is commanded on (typically when cruising under light load), and between 0% and 100% is the EGR solenoid is duty cycled on and off by the PCM (depending on vehicle speed, engine load and temperature). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 Do you cruise under light load for a long distance on your way to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 ^ yes and I noticed the same problem when I drove to visit my family. I would consider 60 at 1600 rpm a light load or going 30 in town.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Check other things as well like input from O2 sensors. It can be one sensor that reports strange data within bounds so that no code is set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 The EGR being isn't going to cause your low mpg or stumble. The EGR maybe help your fuel economy by 1 mpg. It is probably being commanded less for the cold temperature as EGR lowers cylinder temperatures and reintroduces unburnt fuel to the combustion chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 well until I get this OBDLinx issue fixed, I am not going to be able to get the data I want from the car... I will have to go dig up my VAG cable and see if that will work but BTSSM does not have a windows client... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 well until I get this OBDLinx issue fixed, I am not going to be able to get the data I want from the car... I will have to go dig up my VAG cable and see if that will work but BTSSM does not have a windows client... I run it on android mobile with an adapter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 my S8 should be able to handle it with a USB-C to USB A adapter, but I has to find cables. have an e-mail out to OBDLinx due to unit spamming connect messages, waiting for reply. Once I have that sorted out, will get with BTSSM if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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