Who has the most miles on their LGT, and how are they holding up? - Vol-2

How do you feel about the valvebody for before boost rpm around town?

Did you send in a spare for them to mod and replace yours with it or just send yours in?

Any pictures of before and after for rust and an idea of cost?

 

@ cold-high idle, the a bit of a thump. WOT shifts feel a lot better-solid and lot less lag time, around town normal driving is no different. I had my old VB pulled. A large ziplock and double box shipped to IPT. 3 days later it was returned to shop. maybe I'm nutty, but spring should be greedy IC, new fuel pump & bigger injectors & new tune.

 

$3800 bodywork, steel replacements in rear fenders, paint less repair of door ding, replace rear door handle due to inop, paint side mirror caps & hood scoop, replace front bumper cover due to scuffs and cracks, add new chin spoiler, add used front spats. I need to search for pic of rust. Also added one set chinessium sticker

Another palindromic milestone recently. Like Max, got a little rust on door seams. Otherwise, still pulls hard being Stage 2 for ~111k mi.

Good to hear...been wondering how much longer I want to keep the wagon. It still drives well, just wonder what's going to need attention next. Still taking it to VT skiing and use it as a DD.

 

 

 

Has a little rust on the bottom of the right front door, have to keep after that so it doesn't get to bad. Also has a small rust hole behind the left rear tire, keep that treated too.

 

Do to time in the rust belt & some fury creatures. About 3 yrs. ago, I had a full repaint ($4k). Body panel rust was the heaviest in the DS door seams. A little less rust on the other door seams & both rear quarter.

My outlook for the next 3yrs. E-vac system above the fuel tank & filler neck, steering rack, front & rear sub frames. Motor found is still squirreled away:spin:.

Crazy to think I might be thinking of dumping $6k+ in this old girl in the next 3-5yrs. But that's only a 5th of the cost to replace it. On my short list, 2014-15 BMW 535d X-Drive). My car as been payed off sense the summer 07. Not like it owes me anything & if I do drop $6K. I only have to drive it a year to recoup my money out of it, (new car payment plus increase in car insurance).

Edited December 30, 2017 by HAMMER DOWN

E-vac system above the fuel tank & filler neck, steering rack

 

2015 sti steering rack

Cannot search at the moment, anyone aware of any cosmetic or body posts about before and after rust repairs on these 4th gen LGTs?

Any rust for you guys? Specifically in front of rear wheels between the door?

 

Yep... pull off your plastic lower section and you'll find that it's pretty rusted underneath there....

4 Rust in rear fenders has also been repaired, front fenders have no rust.

 

Can I ask how they were repaired? I've been trying to find patch panels or someone who will sell me the section cut from a rust free car.

Do to time in the rust belt & some fury creatures. About 3 yrs. ago, I had a full repaint ($4k). Body panel rust was the heaviest in the DS door seams. A little less rust on the other door seams & both rear quarter.

My outlook for the next 3yrs. E-vac system above the fuel tank & filler neck, steering rack, front & rear sub frames. Motor found is still squirreled away:spin:.

Crazy to think I might be thinking of dumping $6k+ in this old girl in the next 3-5yrs. But that's only a 5th of the cost to replace it. On my short list, 2014-15 BMW 535d X-Drive). My car as been payed off sense the summer 07. Not like it owes me anything & if I do drop $6K. I only have to drive it a year to recoup my money out of it, (new car payment plus increase in car insurance).

 

Kind of the same thought. This thing so much fun to drive, the few grand a year is still cheaper then finding something to replace it that's equal to the fun fracture.

 

 

Been thinking about rear sub frame too. But when my buddies body shop had that removed to install the new fuel fill pipe and gas tank, they didn't mention anything about any problems or things looking bad. I did a quick look at the sub frame when it was lowered and really did see anything that stuck out.

The wife's '06 will turn over 180K this week, won't be payed off for another year and needs a bunch of stuff. I'm really torn. She loves it and it's been pretty reliable, the payment is so easy I could pay it off in a few months if I didn't have so much else on my plate. I'm just not sure if I want to go all in for what it needs. Original dampers are going soft, control arms are making noise, coils are testing on the fritz, can't keep brakes or bearings in it for a reasonable amount of time and the tires wear shitty whether they get rotated or not. I wanted to buy her this car from the first time I saw the "new" body in '05, but that's gonna be some uncomfortable coin in what I can't believe is a pretty old car already. It sure is sexy though...

7/8 of the way to 200k!

 

Exterior:

I have rust in front of the driver side rear wheel, passenger side looks great there except there's rust inside the gas fill door (NJ car prior to me and assumes sloppy gas station attendants). Also under the passenger front door there's a bit forming.. I had the wheel well professionally repaired 3 years ago and it's just starting to come back. Been treating all three areas since I started noticing it and the rust has been very slow moving, some professional rust inhibitor I was given. My wagon looks pretty amazing for its age and notoriously poor Subaru paint though. I get tons of compliments on its looks and condition. I spray it off probably every week, hand wash probably once a month, and wax twice or three times a year.

 

Interior:

My driver seat is in bad shape, it's tearing and butt heater crapped out a year ago. My driver's window is off track and doesn't operate. Otherwise the interior is holding up well.

 

 

Original equipment motor, turbo and trans.

 

Trans is noisy and I assume it's the center diff transfer drive bearings. They've been noisy since 107k miles and not really getting any worse. Trans shifts great, syncros seem to line up nicely, not crunchy even I'm high revs, rev matching is a breeze and so is downshifting.

 

Motor eats about 0.75-1.25 quarts over 3k-4k miles, and I have yearly UOA reports that look great with wear metals. Average 18-25mpg, all city driving compared to all highway cruising around 80mph (imagine I could maybe get 27mpg without my roof rack). Need to change out my TGV gaskets and a new turbo inlet. Data logging looks solid except idle trims and fuel is off. Cobb AP ots 93oct maps only since stock at 70k miles.

 

Turbo still holds boost and is relatively quiet. I use premium synthetic, check often, always top off and always change on time. Banjo bolt was out around 80k miles and replaced with a new screen. I haven't seen it since and I'm not too worried about it. I'll have it removed/replaced when I get to the turbo inlet. Likely have a new turbo installed preventively this year.

 

That's it for now. Been with this wagon for coming up on 6 years and about 70k miles, best car I've ever owned no question.

Edited January 4, 2018 by BoozeRS05

2006 OBXT 5MT 127,000 miles, DD car with 85 miles per day. 80 of those at 83mph and 3400 rpm.

 

Very little city miles on this car, brakes were original with plenty of meat at 120k. Replaced pads/rotors due to shimmy from pad material, lots of mountain passes.

 

Clutch holds good still at 127k. 4 x 0-80mph pulls every day plus stop lights in between.

2 wheel bearings at <10k miles (part of the bad batch)

passenger side door latch broke (120k miles)

engine under cover is completely warped from exhaust heat / 18wheel ice chunks at 80mph

2 sets of spark plugs, time belt, water pump/idlers, drive belts

Adjusted the parking brake cable tension at 120k

Replaced coolant 2x time, no sign of issues in the fluid

Infamous passenger front CV boot at 115k, replaced the whole axle

Weird radio issue/fan relay issues (still not resolved, no dealer close to me to replace ECU per recall)

Replaced OEM battery, seemed to be struggling during the winter

Replaced all fluids per schedual, except oil at 6k once a year or so...usually 3k per oil change.

Lots of stone chips on the car, rust on the body above the windshield, but that's my fault for not getting it taken care of. Entire under body is in good shape, it's seen lots of Utah salt.

 

Very satisfied with the reliability so far. No mods, still pulls like day one and doesn't sip any oil. Checked banjo bolt at 70k, clean except for 1 large spec. That large spec convienced me to leave the filters in -- obviously the oil filter did not catch it.

 

I should note that this car has never had a block heater. Atleast 15-20 times per year it is started in sub 0F temperatures, and I can hear the turbo is not getting oil (whiiiiiinnnneeeee....then silence)....installing one before next winter, got a deal online I couldnt pass up, probably to little to late. Mobil 1 every 3k miles except for a few 6k stints -- FTW!

 

Well that was in 2010. Now I’m at 271,000 miles, original turbo, banjo bolts checked but left in place. Complete stock and original except consumables and rear sway bar.. On second clutch, first one was fine at 170,000 but plastic throw out bearing failed. Have replaced two axles total due to boot failures. Subaru replaced my ECU for free at 200k due to recall. Same with airbags.

 

Still daily drive her. Lost a coil pack or two, blew tip off a spark plug once, replaced alternator and O2 sensor. Uses 1 quart between oil changes now. Probably have a slight head gasket leak, add coolant every 6-8 months, have always used the magic subaru coolant and additives...car is now rusting at rock chips badly, but it’s never been waxed..not event once.

 

Still purrs like a kitten and pulls decent.

Edited June 13, 2019 by laramieskibum

Good to hear she's still running well.

 

Mine will roll 276,000 miles in the next couple day's. ej257 has 123,000 miles, vf52 has 134,000 miles. Car has had lots of wear items replaced, only had to replace the O2 sensors, and left front axle.

 

Little rust but I have had the car painted and have kept after the paint.

Well, as reported in the the "what did you do" thread, mine died last week. Had a flat for a couple of days and didn't notice. I've had a bunch of flats lately (always a new screw or nail, not bad patches or anything) and I think that's what did it in. Got home, swapped in the other set of tires, but if anything, it was worse - horrible crunching noises from the drivetrain - either rear diff or center diff, not sure.

 

 

 

At almost 144k very hard miles (I drive it like I stole it, bnr16g at 60k miles, Hexmods F1, etc) and 14.5 years old, it's not worth spending $1k to open it up.. So, picked up a '19 Stinger GT1 AWD. Now for the part-out..

 

 

 

Engine still runs fine and pulls hard - burned maybe a quart every 1500-2000 miles at the end? I was filling up 2-3 times between 3.5-4k OCI.

232K miles. OEM struts finally are giving up. Car is feeling very nervous over bumps and kind of "floaty" at speed. Can't complain... its amazing for original struts!

 

Putting a set of OEM take-offs with 3K miles on them on in place.

05 obxt 190k, 100k on forged motor, just did a wheel bearing recently. Clutch was just done due to random TOB failure. Car has been good to me, over the past 100k I’ve done brakes, starter and a front cv axle. That doesn’t include performance parts I’ve put in, which weren’t a replacement for failed parts.

 

I see a new short block in my future though

232K miles. OEM struts finally are giving up. Car is feeling very nervous over bumps and kind of "floaty" at speed. Can't complain... its amazing for original struts!

 

Putting a set of OEM take-offs with 3K miles on them on in place.

 

 

IIRC, I replace my OEM struts around 220k for the same reason.

05 obxt 190k, 100k on forged motor, just did a wheel bearing recently. Clutch was just done due to random TOB failure. Car has been good to me, over the past 100k I’ve done brakes, starter and a front cv axle. That doesn’t include performance parts I’ve put in, which weren’t a replacement for failed parts.

 

I see a new short block in my future though

 

forged motor failing already?

Didn't know this thread existed. I'll add a bit to the shot struts. Mine were shot at 230k along with every bushing in the rear end. Those have all been replaced. Just ticked over 239k today! Edited July 21, 2019 by jaylew

237k on 5EAT. Stock block, Stage 2 for 137k. 3k OCI.

forged motor failing already?

 

The thermal expansion with forged pistons increases wear on cold starts. it’s still running fine, but a little noisier on cold starts and oil consumption has gone up. It most likely just has worn rings but I’ll keep running it for now.....I’ve heard of forged motors hitting 150k it’s just not very common.

08 LGT 5EAT with a little over 151,000 km (I'll let you convert to metric if you care). Only had the car for a few months but outside of pain chips on the hood, door dings from parking lots the and two odd pencil sized holes on the leather by door handles its in great condition. No rust as of yet (surprising as it came from Alberta, land of the rising snow). Really enjoying the car so far.

Recently bought an 05 lgt wagon 5m with 118k and boy is it great. Bought it from an older gentleman that had it tuned by Chris at EFI logics at 20psi. Recently installed new bc coils to replace the old bilstiens he had imported (rusty af). Replaced the stock wheels with enkies and firehawk Indy 500's. At 105k engine had a full reseal with oem gasket kit. Runs good but metal on metal noise coming from clutch area when my foot is off the clutch at idle. But refuse to thinks it's then TOB...lol. Currently on a basemap from Matt miner as I got rid of the open source tune and added an ebcs and aem fuel pump. Compression / leakdown came back good so just waiting to save up some $ and start to build her up more.

Well that was in 2010. Now I’m at 271,000 miles, original turbo, banjo bolts checked but left in place. Complete stock and original except consumables and rear sway bar.. On second clutch, first one was fine at 170,000 but plastic throw out bearing failed. Have replaced two axles total due to boot failures. Subaru replaced my ECU for free at 200k due to recall. Same with airbags.

 

Still daily drive her. Lost a coil pack or two, blew tip off a spark plug once, replaced alternator and O2 sensor. Uses 1 quart between oil changes now. Probably have a slight head gasket leak, add coolant every 6-8 months, have always used the magic subaru coolant and additives...car is now rusting at rock chips badly, but it’s never been waxed..not event once.

 

Still purrs like a kitten and pulls decent.

 

Spoke a bit too soon. Major loss of power on hottest day of the year at 85mph. 274,000 miles. No CEL. Limped home, found intercooler/TB connection obviously weeping, turbo inlet weeping, and intercooler cracked at the inlet...channel locked and hammered the intercooler back together, $20 of JB weld, than removed the sleeves on the intercooler outlet hose. Removed, cleaned and reinstalled turbo inlet. Inlet is super soft at the turbo connection, maybe I should replace it. Checked turbo, has axial play but is not contacting yet, no sign of seal leak. added a new ground wire from passenger side of block to frame, since OG one was obliterated 150k ago...

 

Drivers CV boot went again...so that’s on the list now.

 

Back up and running fine, idles much better and pulls ok. Max boost is only 8psi. Arg.

 

Checked wastgate, it’s not shifted.

 

Pulled hose on waste gate, hit 15-17psi no problem.

 

AFR seems fine, not lean unless I hammer it.

 

Timing is +25-40 never drops below 10....tested boost solenoid, it’s fine and clear.

 

Changed the PCV valve while I was in there.

 

Made a boost leak tester but damn what a pain sealing up the inlet is.

 

I’m using Bluetooth adapter and iPhone, seems I need to just buck up and get learning view via OpenPort cable to diagnose this one. I just want 4 more psi, I’m at 6400’. Wonder how I can tell if I’m knocking with my Bluetooth adapter and iPhone. Uppipe shield is rattling, wonder if computer is sensing it as knock.

Edited August 4, 2019 by laramieskibum

188,xxx had 6x,xxx when purchased in 2013 running alright last 3.5 years was running with a catted Cobb down pipe IHI VF52 turbo with stage 2 20% wastegate shelf tune on access port V3 till have replaced rear o2 fell apart internally and now front o2 sending incorrect readings causing it to run Rich will be replacing that and getting a new turbo due to blown center cartridge front seal also causing a excessive oil consumption had coil on cylinder 2 fail 3 months ago luckily there was one and only 1 in town at a parts store but other then that doing great Edited August 4, 2019 by 08legacygtturbo

Spoke a bit too soon. Major loss of power on hottest day of the year at 85mph. 274,000 miles. No CEL. Limped home, found intercooler/TB connection obviously weeping, turbo inlet weeping, and intercooler cracked at the inlet...channel locked and hammered the intercooler back together, $20 of JB weld, than removed the sleeves on the intercooler outlet hose. Removed, cleaned and reinstalled turbo inlet. Inlet is super soft at the turbo connection, maybe I should replace it. Checked turbo, has axial play but is not contacting yet, no sign of seal leak. added a new ground wire from passenger side of block to frame, since OG one was obliterated 150k ago...

 

Drivers CV boot went again...so that’s on the list now.

 

Back up and running fine, idles much better and pulls ok. Max boost is only 8psi. Arg.

 

Checked wastgate, it’s not shifted.

 

Pulled hose on waste gate, hit 15-17psi no problem.

 

AFR seems fine, not lean unless I hammer it.

 

Timing is +25-40 never drops below 10....tested boost solenoid, it’s fine and clear.

 

Changed the PCV valve while I was in there.

 

Made a boost leak tester but damn what a pain sealing up the inlet is.

 

I’m using Bluetooth adapter and iPhone, seems I need to just buck up and get learning view via OpenPort cable to diagnose this one. I just want 4 more psi, I’m at 6400’. Wonder how I can tell if I’m knocking with my Bluetooth adapter and iPhone. Uppipe shield is rattling, wonder if computer is sensing it as knock.

 

 

Get BtSsm instead. Great app made by one forum member.