What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Preface : Yes, I went overboard with the pink arrows. I thought they would be helpful but before I knew it they were everywhere. Being I do my best work in paint.net, I could not go back and delete ones I didn't want.

 

 

Got pretty far on front suspension refresh. Both sides are in the same state. Brakes tomorrow and I should be good to go! Well, that and one heck of an alignment.

 

Did I also try really hard to drain the brake lines into a jar and managed not to spill a drop? Yep!! Did I then spill most of the jar onto the floor? Yea, maybe. Is it going to ruin my already shitty floor paint and possibly my compressor hose? Definitely and hopefully not.

 

New:

Knuckles

Inner and Outer tie rods

Ball joint

Sway bar bushing and linkages

Front and rear LCA bushings (pressed in by local mechanic, job proved too much for my friend's #2 press)

 

New to me:

Aluminum LCA's

Bilstein's (JDM GT Rev.B according to this post OEM Bilstein explainer

 

now you can add part numbers and torque specs for each bolt

 

luv paint.net

now you can add part numbers and torque specs for each bolt

 

luv paint.net

 

hahah yea I could, just about. Suppose it wouldn't be too much to add a couple more arrows and text boxes. Them vacation pics proving very useful as of late.

^^Small biff, the spill considering you went to town on the suspension. Springs?

^^Small biff, the spill considering you went to town on the suspension. Springs?

 

Yea, I guess that's true. More could have gone wrong. And nope, no springs! I bought struts/shocks already assembled. Keeping fingers crossed rears came from a Sedan, not Wagon. Or maybe it doesn't make a huge difference?

 

EDIT : Just remembered I did mess up worse than a jar of spilled brake fluid, potentially. When I went to take off one of the inner tie rods my impact wrench slipped into lightest tighten setting. I stayed on it a few seconds, easy. I thought it was weird because other side came off so easy. That's at which point I noticed I was tightening not loosening. Hopefully I did not f*ck up the internals of the rack. It seems fine with no load on wheels and motor off. We'll see how it is once I hit the road..... man I hope it's ok.

Edited May 18, 2021 by bubbagump

Partial day off and it's beautiful outside, bought a Fluid Film car kit a couple weeks ago so I started going at it early this morning.

 

Very impressed with how it seems to work. Got the whole front half finished up and almost done with the rear, on second breakfast break. Working from my back, but I've got the car raised nicely and it's not too bad of a job. Stuff sets into the crevices and penetrates the rust really well, it'll take every bit of the three cans I got. I believe this will become part of my normal car care routine.

 

 

Also, Invidia for the loss! No wonder I can't make boost...

Edited May 18, 2021 by BoozeRS05

do you have a full list of what it takes to rebuild the lines? I'm probably overdue

 

Thanks to covertrussian: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080

^Mine is cracked too.

Got her cleaned up for the first time in... years...

 

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, and Liquid Ceramic Wax with a 6" Ryobi orbital.

 

Paint is still in great shape all things considered.

One day I still dream of getting her painted Steel Blue Mica.

 

Will detail the inside later this week.

 

 

What's the tint level/% on this? That looks about what I want to get done on my wagon!

What's the tint level/% on this? That looks about what I want to get done on my wagon!

 

Unfortunately, I have no idea. It was tinted this way when I bought it several years ago. I need to get it retinted, but I have other things to pay for first.

Appreciate the offer, hope I can get it done by the dealer though, I am in no mood right now to get under the car and start ripping those lines out.

 

 

 

Dropped it off at the dealer tonight. We'll see what happens tomorrow. service and parts guys know me on a first name basis so they

will do what they can within their powers. I'll make sure they get paid for the fix will be and I'll take it from there with SOA. Little concerned that 2010 did it, makes me think about mine and my oldest son's 2005s. Huh.

 

One tip, make sure you or they spray that junction block with rust preventative.

 

I did my wagon the other day, a few years after the dealer replaced the parts.

One tip, make sure you or they spray that junction block with rust preventative.

 

I did my wagon the other day, a few years after the dealer replaced the parts.

 

 

Dealer hasn't gotten to 2010 OB yet.

I might try putting mine on ramps and check for lines conditions on mine. And older son's 05 OB as well. He's been traveling all around North East and Canada for skiing so plenty of salt to get on the car.

 

Also, Invidia for the loss! No wonder I can't make boost...

 

 

Get a catless OEM up-pipe, used STI in good shape used to be $50-$70. Has flex section in it.

Interior shots after a little detailing and 303 protectant.

I love the relative simplicity of the 4th Gen interior (with some mods for keeping up with the times).

 

 

 

One of these days I'll start a build thread...

Once I figure out how to pause time for everyone else.

Get a catless OEM up-pipe, used STI in good shape used to be $50-$70. Has flex section in it.

 

Got one in my garage already, it's free

 

And I have a Perrin UP blanket I'll be selling now too

What's the tint level/% on this? That looks about what I want to get done on my wagon!

 

 

It's pretty light but looks about 35%. Photos can be hard though. Might be lighter.

 

 

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Decided maybe I'm not going the 20x route. I talked to a few friends that are more experienced than I and they said I'll be alright if I just let the journals/cams be, with maybe a light polish. I cleaned up the burrs on the one journal today and started mixing buckets around to bring valve clearances into spec. Worst one so far was about .4-.5mm out of range.

Decided maybe I'm not going the 20x route. I talked to a few friends that are more experienced than I and they said I'll be alright if I just let the journals/cams be, with maybe a light polish. I cleaned up the burrs on the one journal today and started mixing buckets around to bring valve clearances into spec. Worst one so far was about .4-.5mm out of range.

 

Why not you (or your machine shop) verify cam journal clearances to make sure that journal isn't too worn?

Made a pleasant discovery on the way to work today. Rowed through gears quickly for the first time on the new build. Despite the fact that the motor's noisier in terms of piston slap than the RA block was, there is now zero shift knock! Was pretty bad before - had to time my shifts just right or else it'd pull up to 10 degrees on both 93 and E85.

Also, Invidia for the loss! No wonder I can't make boost...

 

Dang! I'm convinced my OEM up with 130K+ miles is in the same boat. Besides being unable to hit target boost, did you notice anything else like smells/sounds?

My motor and trans leak oil so there's almost always some smell. I thought I could hear an exhaust leak going through narrow alleys and such, but assumed it was coming from the manifold, which is why I just had it all apart and cleaned up. Could never really feel or see that crack until the other day, but my idle and off boost fuel trims aren't great, and I've only been able to reach about 12.5lbs of boost for a little while now.

 

Regarding OEM uppipes, I haven't heard of many of those leaking, but the heat shields on mine were loose enough I felt they'd be an issue. So I tightened those up with some SS zip ties and worm clamp. I'll be excited as I can be to tear the manifold apart, again, and get this OEM uppipe in there.

 

Gonna be a couple weeks without my wagon though, paints on the way. The guy doing my paint has a couple pretty nice toys

Edited May 20, 2021 by BoozeRS05

Thanks for the info. I'm with you on heat shields - I've resorted to stuffing DEI exhaust wrap into the voids to help with rattling. I've also heard that the accordion/flex joint in the OEMs can literally disintegrate after a while though that seems rare in general. Won't really know until I tear into it to replace the up/manifold/turbo & downpipe. Hopeful the 321SS v-band uppipe from Killer B will last the life of the car

the up pipe is literally the most abused part on the engine. has the most heat and exposure to vibration. getting a good piece in there should help.

 

I have a stack of them because fragile. You never know what could happen pushing the car around the garage.

Put insurance back on. Come June 1st I'll drive her til she quits on me lol. Summer mode activated. On another note, I installed koni strt/eibachs on my 07 accord and feels like stock suspension.

 

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My motor and trans leak oil so there's almost always some smell. I thought I could hear an exhaust leak going through narrow alleys and such, but assumed it was coming from the manifold, which is why I just had it all apart and cleaned up. Could never really feel or see that crack until the other day, but my idle and off boost fuel trims aren't great, and I've only been able to reach about 12.5lbs of boost for a little while now.

 

Regarding OEM uppipes, I haven't heard of many of those leaking, but the heat shields on mine were loose enough I felt they'd be an issue. So I tightened those up with some SS zip ties and worm clamp. I'll be excited as I can be to tear the manifold apart, again, and get this OEM uppipe in there.

 

Gonna be a couple weeks without my wagon though, paints on the way.

 

I've had an OEM UP fail at the flex joint, it's under the heat shield. It came out in two pieces when I removed it.

I love the relative simplicity of the 4th Gen interior (with some mods for keeping up with the times).

 

Nice.. you have steering wheel controls and an 05? Was it from this Walkthrough?

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-steering-wheel-radio-controls-26232.html