What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Too cold for E85?? In Vegas??

 

NEVER! I run that shite all winter long.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Mine takes about 1-2 "extra" cranks when it is below 30 degrees but has always started.

I'm curious to see if there are any noticeable differences after adding the FF setup and re-tuning.

It amazes me how even when I have a brand new (to me) truck that all I want is to have my LGT back. Counting the days.

At 24*F mine took a few extra cranks and actually stalled. It restarted fine after that. This will be my first winter with the FF setup. I don’t plan on running 93oct ever.

How big are your injectors? ID 1050?

Did you replace the gas tank with all the work you did on your car? I had a similar issue, ended up needing a new gas tank.

No I didn't replace the gas tank, there was only minor rust at the edge of the seam. The hose attachments were all good to. I do plan to replace the tank in a couple years. At this point, since all the suspension has been touched and are new bolts, it won't take long to do. Also it wasn't in the budget this time around.

Awfulwaffle, I plan to get a smoker soon. That way I can fix the issue actually. Just for now it's easier to tune out the code so cruise control works then when I have the time / money for a smoker, I can fix it for real.

More than likely it's not a leaking line but the pressure control on top of the rear end of the tank (wild guess)

How big are your injectors? ID 1050?

ID1000, Aem pump w/ hardwire kit, Oem FPR, Cobb FF w/ pressure sensor, reading E76 in the tank.

ID1000, Aem pump w/ hardwire kit, Oem FPR, Cobb FF w/ pressure sensor, reading E76 in the tank.

If the stalling continues I'd get in touch with the tuner.

That certainly shouldn't happen regularly.

Gave them a note telling them about the intermittent steering wheel shimmy. How I think I can feel the left front axle (aftermarket, w/110,000miles) vibrate sometimes, there is a clunk in the right front over broken pavement.

 

I have had this issue. It is referenced a lot in the Outback forums. There are many theories floated ranging from steering rack bushings, subframe bushings, covering the lower part of the spring with tubing, LCA, top hats, ball joints.

I've tried a lot of those but not in the trifecta combination that you did. Axle, Ball joint, hub...hmmm

I so so so recommend getting or building a smoke tester. I had been using one I've rigged up recently, but spent the cash on one with a built in smoke generator and compressor recently. Best $200 I've ever spent, runs off of the car's battery so no need to be tied to an air compressor and wall outlet like my DIY rig. All I think you'd have to do is pop the evap line at the engine, and blow smoke into either end to see if you're venting anywhere.

Can you post a link to the one you bought, and a picture of which evap lines you remove and put the smoke into?

Can you post a link to the one you bought, and a picture of which evap lines you remove and put the smoke into?

The tester is this one: https://www.amazon.com/AUTOOL-SDT-202-Automotive-Detector-Locator/dp/B07DC22RWS

Works great, and will pressurize the intake tract between 5 and 15 psi depending on leaks to crankcase and how much of the tract you test. Definitely can't get the whole engine to 15, but isolating before and after the intercooler it's right around there. That said, the small leaks I did see I saw at way lower pressure.

Do you mean pics of where to test for an evap leak, or a boost/vacuum leak?

I have had this issue. It is referenced a lot in the Outback forums. There are many theories floated ranging from steering rack bushings, subframe bushings, covering the lower part of the spring with tubing, LCA, top hats, ball joints.

 

I've tried a lot of those but not in the trifecta combination that you did. Axle, Ball joint, hub...hmmm

After the first left front hub/bearing went years ago, and replaced. afterwards I noticed the shimmy was gone completely and figured out it must had been the hub going. the different pavement types or angles must have put different loads on the bearing...?

Just changed the oil..

This mysterious engine oil leak I have is driving me crazy, and it seems to be getting a little bit worse. It comes back, and hits the transmission drain plug. When looking forward, there is residue on the right side of the bell housing, the left side looks pretty clean. There is also oil on the rear lip of the oil pan, and in that general area, where the really hard to access oil pan bolts are.

I don't see oil dripping down from the little bottom part of the flywheel that's visible. Rear main seal was replaced by a dealer a couple years ago when they did my clutch.

Is it common for oil pan gaskets to leak on these cars? That's what I'm thinking maybe, the rear gasket on the oil pan, but I don't know..

Are oil separator plates an issue still, even though they're metal? I don't think it's the rear main seal or head gaskets, but anything is possible. I thought about blindly resealing the oil pan, but with the weather getting colder, and not wanting my car to be down for a day while the rtv cures, I really don't want to. If I knew for sure that was the problem, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

No turbo goodies on my car unfortunately. These pictures are from the summer, I had partially cleaned up the stream of oil going towards the back of the car. I think the leak has gotten a little worse. Though, I also don't clean the area as much as I used to. Looking closely at the motor mount, I'm starting to think more that it's the oil pan gasket, since it seems to be coming backwards.

*I forgot to say, yeah the right/passenger side of the car

Just changed the oil..

I thought about blindly resealing the oil pan, but with the weather getting colder, and not wanting my car to be down for a day while the rtv cures, I really don't want to. If I knew for sure that was the problem, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

You can get/use RTV that cures in less than a day.

Yeah, I'm a stickler for using the rtv's that subaru recommends, or their approved alternative. Both of those take 24hrs to cure, but I'm sure I could use a faster curing rtv, some permatex right stuff variety, without any issues.

I did that with some of the bolts max, but not the rears. I'm a skinny dude with skinny arms, I might disconnect the motor mounts and dogbone and give it a go. I don't think I'd have to unbolt the exhaust, but I'll look into that.

I appreciate the suggestions.

Ah well the non turbo does simplify things. How's your head gaskets? The space between the oil pan, heads, and motor mounts are all pretty close on the turbo model, I imagine it's similar for you.

I've not heard much about oil pan leaks but na subarus are known for bad head gaskets. But yea if those are good and the rear main seal was recently done, I can't think of what else it may be other than the pan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Passed 22k on the new engine and will be changing the oil tonight at roughly 4500k. I've been using delo400 5w40 and wix 57055 filters.

Any UOAs with that oil/weight? Price sure looks attractive.

Any UOAs with that oil/weight? Price sure looks attractive.

Yeah, I'm a stickler for using the rtv's that subaru recommends, or their approved alternative. Both of those take 24hrs to cure, but I'm sure I could use a faster curing rtv, some permatex right stuff variety, without any issues.

 

I did that with some of the bolts max, but not the rears. I'm a skinny dude with skinny arms, I might disconnect the motor mounts and dogbone and give it a go. I don't think I'd have to unbolt the exhaust, but I'll look into that.

 

I appreciate the suggestions.

Can you get a mirror on telescopic handle around the right side and check for leaks around? Is the upper part of block dry? On NA engine there are those camshaft covers in the back of the head, they are made from hard plastic. If one cracked it may be leaking just enough oil. The location is strange though, I would expect much more oil covering in this case.

Other than that it's either head gasket (hope not) or oil pan seal. As for main seal being replaced by shop, that could be it too. Only way to deal with it is eliminate possible culprits one by one.

It's not going to be much warmer until spring so.... Either keep adding oil or deal with it now.

Detailed the interior last night. Haven't done that in couple of years, just kept it clean. Leatherette on seats was so dry... I did two passes, and seats absorbed it all. Same with dash and front door panels. Car looks good now, have the head liner back already, just few small items still not back.

I used Chemical Guys detailing pads, those rectangular ones. They made the whole detailing so easy, literally I was done with 2 passes within 40 minutes and took care of all seats and all plastic interior pieces inside. Didn't even break a sweat.

My detailing included also taking care of door seals, once I was done with interior used both soaked pads to clean and apply some of leather detailer to door seals. Also cleaned body surfaces where seals make contact. I used to do that too back in the day, and do believe the car does get more quiet after seals are cleaned and re-lubed. No instrumental measurements to back this claim, it just feels more quiet.