Transmission Installation problems

Hello All,

 

We were able to take out the cv axles, took out the transmission, and installed a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I used the clutch alignment tool to make sure the clutch was centered. I have heard that putting back in the transmission was a pain but I'm not completely sure why when I try to put it in it feels like I'm hitting something that might be blocking the spline from the transmission that goes through the clutch. Any clues or tips about how to put in the transmission?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

I almost didn't reply to this, because I've never done this, but I want to try to help..

 

I have done research since I've thought about doing this myself. From what I've read, the engine will tilt forward with the transmission removed. So if the engine is tilting forward a little when you go to put the transmission back on, that could cause problems. Not sure if that's your issue, but worth a shot.

He talks about that a little at the 16 minute mark here.

Yes the engine will tilt forward.

 

Make sure its not hitting the turbo flange.

 

I found I had to jack up the rear of the car when I was installing the engine.

 

Make sure the TOB fork didn't fell off the pivot ball before you bolt the tranny up. I had to pull the tranny because of that once.

Usually a mirror-on-a-stick will show you how the input shaft is aligned against the clutch.

Thanks for the replies, forgot to mention this is a 2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i non-turbo 5MT. I have looked at alot of videos and was following the one mentioned above and I put a thick blanket between the engine and the radiator to try to keep it from pushing too far forward. I read for other cars people mentioning turning the driveshaft some to see if that helps line it up? Not sure if that would help, or it just need to be muscled in

Good idea about the mirror, will have to try that after work. Keep the ideas coming, hopefully something will work tonight, was wresting with it for a while over the weekend, pushing left/right, up/down, but it didn't seem to want to go all the way in

Mating engine and gearbox is a tight fit. And my experience is that the plastic tools for centering aren't always ideal. Just take it easy in small steps. The part where the tip entering the pilot bearing is a tight fit.

I used a trans jack, engine hoist, and a regular jack on a 2x4 to angle mine correctly to get it to mount (06 2.5Gt), it was a major pain with the turbo there. Took 3 of us to get it to mate properly. It was our first time doing it, and I'd imagine it'd be way easier next time......but if I have to do it again the engines coming out haha.

You need to get the angle of the engine and the transmission just right for them to go together. Also, you may need to rotate the crank pulley to get the splines to line up. If you are 90% there and getting resistance you most likely need to rotate the crank.

Hopefully going to go back at it tonight, what is the best way to rotate the crank pulley for this, I have both axles and driveshaft out of the car? Shoulkd I open the timing cover and turn from there, or is there a better way? Thanks again for the replies!

Also, I have a helper, so would it be better to have someone tilt the engine toward the rear while the other person tries to push it in(trans will be on a jack)? I've heard people say its alot easier with two people, but wanted to see what the best use of both people would be...

Another possible problem, there are 2 metal pins/dowels on the case that helps with the alignment of the trans, sometimes these can be a PITA to get into holes on the engine side. I lube these up to help them slide better.

Use a 22mm socket and bar to turn the crank pulley.

 

 

 

I use anti seize on the dowel pins.

 

 

Place a jack with a piece of wood under the headers (cross pipe) or the oil pan to tilt the engine.

Use a 22mm socket and bar to turn the crank pulley.

 

 

 

I use anti seize on the dowel pins.

 

 

Place a jack with a piece of wood under the headers (cross pipe) or the oil pan to tilt the engine.

 

This.

 

Have 1 person up top (side of the car) to help guide the top of the bellhousing and support it. They can also rotate the crank pulley for you if its close but not quite moving.

 

Have 2nd person on the ground lining up the bottom. If your trans jack has an angle adjuster you will probably have to play with that. We used the tail end of the trans to help tilt it too

 

It's a lot easier to get the right angle with the engine tilted.