STi Rebuild

I know this probably isn't the place for this thread, but since it's a piggy back off my other thread, I figured it would go here.

long story short, I was offered this 2011 STi for $4k with a blown engine. I didn't want to pass on the offer, so I scrambled and found the money. I have a $9k budget in total, and $4.3k is already gone. I spoke to the mechanic at Groove Subaru in Denver who diagnosed this car. he said he couldn't get it started so he just said screw it and said the motor was blown. he said he could hear the sounds of the engine when there's no oil in it. the owner said the turbo was blown and the mechanic said it's likely because the banjo screens were clogged and starved the turbo of oil. pretty standard.

so i'm going to start with a brand new shortblock from Heuberger. wondering if I should get a new oil pump, oil pickup, and such as well. what do you think?

then I'll send out the heads for cleaning and decking (I'll check valve lash before I pull off the old heads just to be sure). And I also need to source a replacement turbo or find somewhere to rebuild this one.

anything else i'm missing?

You trying to keep it stock? With a new turbo going in...go a little bigger and tune? You will also have the chance to give the new engine a proper break-in, unless the customer wishes to do that. Not sure if a new block means salvage title or not.

It might be worth cleaning out the whole post turbo intake system, incase any debris is hanging around.

Moved this to the newly-created Other Subaru Models forum.

GLWYB

yes, it will be bone stock.

i may put an aftermarket clutch on it since it's cheaper than OEM and better anyway; and I wont put the banjo filters in it either. but otherwise, it will remain stock -- i will advertise it as a new motor from heuberger.

sweet! i hope i dont get my pee-pee smacked for posting this. I got the hookup at Heuberger. going to pick up the parts either tomorrow or wednesday!

I'm so freaking excited about this! my wife just got out of the hospital for a diagnosed ovarian cyst that's almost double the size of her ovaries -- and this just made my day!

is there anything else I should consider getting knowing that the old engine spun a rod and had a blown turbo?

I'm really concerned about the health of the heads. should I just vac test it and if it passes, reuse it? or should I completely disassemble the heads, take it in for a clean/inspect/deck, and reassemble?

edit: actually, i'm very ecstatic about having the BB/BB block now that I think about it. gonna reduce piston slap and make it nice and quiet on start up for the new owners

it's Christmas!!

I'm not overly ecstatic about having a BB/BB block, but whatever, it is what it is. I'll try to make some significant progress on pulling the STi motor out tonight. Last night, I was focused on putting the OBXT back together, getting it out of the garage, cleaning the garage, and getting all these shiny new parts staged.

also, I did get a new oil cooler while I was at Heuberger. And I also met a new local contact for head work. before I disconnected the batter, I decided to try to crank it over just for grins. she sounded like she had really good compression and wanted to fire up. the engine was shaking something terrible, but it didn't sound like a thrown rod. maybe a spun bearing?!?

Dale,

the tech seemed rather incompetent actually. he just kinda shrugged at every questions. when I pulled the car in the garage, we tried to start it just for kicks. she sounded like she had really good compression and even tried to fire over.

I only had about 2 hours to spare after work yesterday to work on the car, so I just pulled the motor. If I can find the time today, I'll pull the heads and take them in for a cleaning and inspection.

the turbo actually looked really good. the previous owner and the tech said the turbo was blown. no axial shaft play, minimal lateral shaft play, spins relatively freely, standard VF wastegate crack. there was a little oil on the mouth of the compressor housing. Should I still rebuild it? or buy a used one?

the old clutch also looks like it has plenty of life left in it. i'm still going to replace it since I already bought the parts, but who knows, maybe I can get like $40 for it somewhere

also, when I reinstall this motor, is there anything that says I "CANT" put the throw out bearing on the input shaft first and allow it to slide on to the clutch as I mate the block and tranny? this is only the second car I've ever worked on with a pull type before, and as I recall, it was a bitch to get the TOB to line up with the fork after getting the block mated to the tranny.

finally, I remember reading some back and forth about using the Subaru coolant conditioner. what was the verdict? the coolant that came out of this car was blue and smelled very sweet. I have to assume that's factory coolant with the conditioner in it - true? is that still the recommended coolant to use?

oh yeah,

take a look at the above picture. notice the accessory belt on the A/C compressor: this is exactly what I was going to do to my LGT since the current tensioner pulley on my LGT is starting to make some noises. since there is no tensioner bracket on this car, i'm forced to buy another flex belt. unless someone knows a trick to remove this one and reinstall it?!? I was under the impression these flex belts were one time use things.

well, i have some nice oil glitter here glad to know it was a spun bearing instead of a thrown rod. what do you think?

i have a new oil cooler, pickup, pump, and filter. i'm pretty sure i can clean out the baffle and pan well enough. what about the AVCS gears and the OCV? turbo? this is kinda scary.

also, when I reinstall this motor, is there anything that says I "CANT" put the throw out bearing on the input shaft first and allow it to slide on to the clutch as I mate the block and tranny? this is only the second car I've ever worked on with a pull type before, and as I recall, it was a bitch to get the TOB to line up with the fork after getting the block mated to the tranny.

Installation process for the clutch TOB from the 2011 STI FSM.

B: INSTALLATION

1. STI MODEL

NOTE: Apply the specified grease to lubricate to the following points before installation.

• Release lever shaft

• Contact surface of release lever and bearing

• Transmission main shaft spline

• Contact surface of release bearing and transmission case

Grease:NICHIMOLY N-130 (Part No. K0879Y0501) or equivalent

1) Attach the release bearing to the transmission.

2) Insert the release lever into the release bearing tab.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=262040&stc=1&d=1518833864

3) Insert the release lever shaft into the release lever.

NOTE: Make sure the cut portion of the release lever shaft comes into contact with the spring pin.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=262041&d=1518833864

4) Tighten the plugs.

Tightening torque: 48 N·m (4.9 kgf-m, 35.4 ft-lb)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=262042&stc=1&d=1518833864

5) Check the bearing for smooth movement by operating the release lever.

6) Apply grease to the contact surface of the release lever and operating cylinder.

Grease: NICHIMOLY N-130 (Part No. K0879Y0501) or equivalent

7) Apply grease to splines.

Grease: NICHIMOLY N-130 (Part No. K0879Y0501) or equivalent

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=262043&stc=1&d=1518833864

8) Install the transmission assembly.

I follow this process, and the last thing I do, once the trans is mated to the engine is to give the release lever a snap backwards to seat the release bearing on the pressure plate. The lube points are key to this.

finally, I remember reading some back and forth about using the Subaru coolant conditioner. what was the verdict? the coolant that came out of this car was blue and smelled very sweet. I have to assume that's factory coolant with the conditioner in it - true? is that still the recommended coolant to use?

Here's the Subaru recommendations for 2011 STI cooling system refill

The "Blue" Subaru coolant is the Super Long Life 100K mile coolant. It requires two gallons and is not diluted. Your 2011 STI would come standard with the blue SLL coolant, so replace it with that. Note the #1) step in refilling is to "Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck of coolant filler tank." This is the conditioner "agent". Then fill with coolant.

2. FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1) Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck of coolant filler tank.

2) Fill the engine coolant into coolant filler tank up to the filler neck position.

Do not confuse the cap of coolant filler tank and

cap of radiator.

NOTE:

• When pouring the engine coolant, the radiator side cap must not be removed.

• The SUBARU Super Coolant contains antifreeze and anti-rust agents, and is especially made for Subaru engines with an aluminum cylinder block. Always use SUBARU Super Coolant, since other coolant may cause corrosion.

3) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to “FULL” level.

so i pulled one head off.

the other head has a stripped headbolt. I mean damn near completely rounded. I couldn't even get my bolt extractor to bite hard enough around the head of the bolt and my air hammer was basically worthless as well. gonna try to find another bolt extractor with some sharper teeth on it; but if that doesn't work, i'll have to drill it and try to break the head off. I doubt a countersink will hold up to the torque to try to remove it. the other five bolts came out relatively easy.

so next question:

I was thinking about everything that needs to be done after I put the new motor back together but before startup. on other motors I've built, I've always had to prime the oil pump, oil cooler, oil filter, and oil pickup prior to even cold cranking to prime to the rest of the motor; but, looking at the oil pump, it doesn't have the same hole that I can use a drill to prime it. Anyone know a trick to priming the pump? Is there anything else I need to prime to be on the safe side? AVCS or OCV? I don't think those need to get primed, but that's why i'm asking you guys -- you're the experts.

The blue is what they use now. The green kind locally at least was gone back when I was replacing my 1st turbo.

https://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/p/Subaru__/Super-Coolant-Pre-mixed-1-Gallon-Bottle/49506099/SOA868V9270.html

1 Gallon Bottle For most Subaru cars 2009 and newer If you are unsure please email or check owners manual Formulated for long-lasting corrosion and rust protection for all cooling system components, this prediluted antifreeze/engine coolant prevents the use of poor quality water that can lead to cooling system failure. • Provides cold-weather protection to -62° F • Protects against corrosion with organic corrosion inhibitor • Eliminates need for additional corrosion inhibitors • Compatible with non-metal surfaces • Required for use in all warranty repairs

thanks! I'll be sure to use the smurf juice on this car.

any answers to the plethora of other questions from this thread? oil priming? cleaning out OCV and AVCS gears? rebuild the turbo or buy a new/used one? A/C Belt issue?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bmbs-motor-pulling-thread-max-boxkitty-drama-248563p42.html

This thread starting around page 40 discusses oil issues at startup. Decent read if nobody is really responding to this thread yet.

so next question:

 

I was thinking about everything that needs to be done after I put the new motor back together but before startup. on other motors I've built, I've always had to prime the oil pump, oil cooler, oil filter, and oil pickup prior to even cold cranking to prime to the rest of the motor; but, looking at the oil pump, it doesn't have the same hole that I can use a drill to prime it. Anyone know a trick to priming the pump? Is there anything else I need to prime to be on the safe side? AVCS or OCV? I don't think those need to get primed, but that's why i'm asking you guys -- you're the experts.

I prime through the oil pressure switch port, using an adapter on the end of a portable sprayer hose.

Install the adapter, fill the sprayer with the recommended fill of engine oil, pump it up and release the trigger.

It pressurizes your engine, and you can immediately see if there are any leaks end-2-end through the entire system. And turbo, mains, cams and everything gets wonderfully lubed in the process. Once that's done, then feel free to crank your engine over using the crank bolt.

I do this before you put the engine back in the car while it's sill on the stand, but you can do it in the car. I bought a bunch of the adapters and sent them to whomever wanted one. I'll see if I can find them after the move.