[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete

another satisfied damper deleter. I can't emphasize how much this is needed to be done on any 6MT 5th gen

Don't know why I waited so long to do this (had the part for last 2+ years). Also installed a Goodrich stainless line off of slave cylinder (gt part fits 2.5i too). I didn't have to do anything special with the union install. Once lines were in by hand, fit into mounting bolt enough and tightened well. Great pedal feel now.

Just for nostalgia, I re-read this entire thread. I miss those days where we were discovering new fun stuff all the time. Also miss a few of the "old" ones... Surly for example.....

I still need to do this. Still discovering stuff here.

I was looking at 2012 Legacy GT FS ad and noticed this claim.

 

"Clutch dump valve was switched to the model used for the 2015+ WRX for better clutch engagement"

 

I wonder how easily the WRX damper would bolt in.

I wonder if it is just a union like the one we swapped it to or if it is still a damper

I was looking at 2012 Legacy GT FS ad and noticed this claim.

 

"Clutch dump valve was switched to the model used for the 2015+ WRX for better clutch engagement"

 

I wonder how easily the WRX damper would bolt in.

 

I wonder if it is just a union like the one we swapped it to or if it is still a damper

 

It looks like the 2015+ WRX clutch system is completely different than ours. I don't see any damper in line between the master and slave. I suspect the person writing that FS ad had no idea what they were talking about, based on the language used.

 

Here is the link to the 2015+ WRX clutch hydraulic system page on Subaru's parts site, and a pic of the parts exploded view. As you can see, definitely much different than ours.

 

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2015_WRX-Limited-20L-6MT/60015654__6463967/CLUTCH-CONTROL-SYSTEM/V10-375-01.html

 

 

It looks like the 2015+ WRX clutch system is completely different than ours. I don't see any damper in line between the master and slave.

 

Nice sleuthing.

I don't know - looking at the WRX clutch master cylinder vs. the Legacy clutch master cylinder, the WRX one has a feature that looks alarmingly similar to the clutch damper we have that is separate from the master...

I don't know - looking at the WRX clutch master cylinder vs. the Legacy clutch master cylinder, the WRX one has a feature that looks alarmingly similar to the clutch damper we have that is separate from the master...

WRXs and STis have had dampers built into their master cylinders since at least 2008. Its well documented and they even have a damper delete how-to on IWSTI. But it bolts into the car in a completely different way than ours, so it could never work for us. Edited May 10, 2018 by GTEASER

sorry - I misunderstood - I thought you were indicating there was no damper in the WRX, so I was showing where it was on their master cylinder (they couldn't do that on the Legacy as the clutch stroke sensor thing has to go on the bottom, so maybe there wasn't room.)

sorry - I misunderstood - I thought you were indicating there was no damper in the WRX, so I was showing where it was on their master cylinder (they couldn't do that on the Legacy as the clutch stroke sensor thing has to go on the bottom, so maybe there wasn't room.)

 

that or they were just 5 years down the road of development.

Sooo I’ve been a member on here for awhile. And I read this awhile ago and got the factory union and it’s been sitting in my glove box for awhile... well today I decided to change it out... all I gotta say is WOW!!! This dampner makes a hell of a difference and makes the car way easier to drive!!! If u haven’t done this yet then do it!! Worth the 30-45 min!!!

Still need to do this.

Still need to do this.

 

Me too, I did the damper delete on my 2.5i. I bought the junction, I just need to get around to installing it. I will probably do it when I flush my brakes.

Finally got around to doing this in our 6mt. In addition to more predictable engagement and drive-ability, it makes the car feel a bit quicker between shifts, prob because I no longer 'fish' for the catch point to engage smoothly.

 

The install was a PITA, but worth it. Thanks to reeg and Joe for documenting this!

I recently did this but I think I got an issue.

 

 

 

Does anyone feel more vibration in the clutch pedal?

 

 

 

I'm thinking there is air in the system. And if there is, any tips on how to get it out? I know how to get air out of brake lines but didn't mess with the clutch pedal. Or is it just worth taking it back to the shop that installed it

I recently did this but I think I got an issue.

 

 

 

Does anyone feel more vibration in the clutch pedal?

 

 

 

I'm thinking there is air in the system. And if there is, any tips on how to get it out? I know how to get air out of brake lines but didn't mess with the clutch pedal. Or is it just worth taking it back to the shop that installed it

I get a vibration in the clutch pedal every once in a while. Usually right after I semi-drop the clutch for a spirited launch, but it can happen randomly every few thousand miles. I think it's just built up clutch material dust on the pressure plate or disc. With the engine running and out of gear at a stop, I depress the clutch and slip my foot off it a few times to let it freely pop up. That seems to dislodge whatever imbalance is causing the vibration and it goes away. Still on stock clutch at 55k miles.

I get a vibration in the clutch pedal every once in a while. Usually right after I semi-drop the clutch for a spirited launch, but it can happen randomly every few thousand miles. I think it's just built up clutch material dust on the pressure plate or disc. With the engine running and out of gear at a stop, I depress the clutch and slip my foot off it a few times to let it freely pop up. That seems to dislodge whatever imbalance is causing the vibration and it goes away. Still on stock clutch at 55k miles.

 

 

I've had this exact thing happen to me a few times as well after a hard couple of pulls in 1st - 3rd gears. Freaked me out the first time. Same remedy though - at a stop I kind of "pump" it away by depressing the clutch pedal a few times. Doesn't happen every time. Haven't had any related issues.

 

 

Edit: BTW I still have my clutch damper. Haven't gotten around to the mod, but thought the info would help from someone who hasn't fugged with it yet.

That makes me feel better that it was not the delete that contributed to it.

That makes me feel better that it was not the delete that contributed to it.

I've had it both before and after the damper delete. Thinking back, it probably occurred more often before the delete.

Anxious to install this but wanna have all the right parts.

 

Ya know... "While I am under there" might as well replace : TMIC coupler, add some braided steel lines, shifter bushing and shift stop.

 

Everything except the braided lines have been sitting on my kitchen counter.

 

Anyone that added steel braided lines, what brand and part number did you use?

Under the dash? The only thing to do there is the damper delete. The TMIC couple is worth doing since you are removing it anyway. Otherwise I would save the shifter bushing for a day you will have the car up off the ground for an oil change or trans oil change. The damper delete was enough contorting for me for one day. But I am 6' 1" and 230 lbs getting under the dash was neither fun nor easy. The delete was well worth it though.

 

I can't say I would do braided lines except for the bling factor, I would be afraid of them failing.

You can replace the regular rubber slave cylinder line under the TMIC with braided. IIRC, the 4th Gen part from Goodridge fits

our cars.

I installed this on my 2011 2.5i

 

24222-CLU-CL

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/clutch-lines/goo-24222-clu-cl-goodridge-stainless-steel-coated-clutch-line

 

Between the delete, above, and fresh fluid.. really made the pedal feel more direct.