Clearing up all the oil info....

So it seems like T6 is still one of the best oils to use for Turbo applications....

So it seems like T6 is still one of the best oils to use for Turbo applications....

Yep that's what I got at the report as well.. I was going to try Motul X-ecess 8100 but I saw a report vs the new T6 I'm just going to stick with the T6

So it seems like T6 is still one of the best oils to use for Turbo applications....

 

What do you make of this?

 

SUMMARY

Thermal Breakdown BEGINS SOONER with Diesel oil, than with gas engine oils, which is not desirable for High Performance gas engine usage. And as you can see by looking at this short list of “high zinc” gas engine oils, or by looking at my complete Wear Protection Ranking List, there are many, many gas engine oils available that are FAR SUPERIOR to the best Diesel oils in terms of wear protection. Therefore, using Diesel oils in high performance gas engines is NOT the best choice, if you want superior wear protection with plenty of margin of safety (extra reserve wear protection above what the engine typically needs).

 

First I've heard of this anyplace including bobistheoil guy site

FWIW again, Amsoil, join as a preferred member, get lower pricing, use there filters, send a oil sample to Blackstone Labs at mileage of your choice.

 

I do 7000 mile oil changes using Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic all year. I do a lot of highway miles. Blackstone told me at a 7000 mile sample, to leave the oil in there till 9000 miles and send them another sample. I just change it between 7-8000 miles.

 

Amsoil just raised there prices for the first time in a few years. I think its just over $6.00 a qt when I buy a case. I placed an order Tuesday night, got the oil and filters Thursday.

 

I also have Fumoto oil drain valves on all 3 cars.

Max I live in a very hot climate with no winter to.speak of. Would Amsoil 5w-30 be a better option?

I would not recommend 5-30 for a turbo engine in a hot climate. I have winter with temps down to -30F, I run 5-40 all year.

 

You want the protection of the 40 when your in summer.

I would not recommend 5-30 for a turbo engine in a hot climate. I have winter with temps down to -30F, I run 5-40 all year.

 

You want the protection of the 40 when your in summer.

I wish I did this.. now that I know nothing less then 5w-40 is going in now.

Two things to consider then I'm leaving this thread because it's an endless internet meme no matter what forum you're on and the question of motor oil comes up:

 

1) ALL GF-5 rated oils have reduced zinc and phosphorous. Amsoil, Shell, Mobil 1, Pennzoil; if it says GF-5 it has the government mandated reduction. That's why I always look there first, I eliminate the GF-5 oils.

 

Virtually all race oils have elevated zinc and phosphorous, but no detergents and other additives that you need if you keep the oil in your car for months and thousands of miles at a time.

 

So the happy median seems to be a detergent street oil with more zinc/phosphorous than GF-5 oils.

 

So far the best deal for the $$ I've found is Mobil 1 FS Euro Spec 0w-40 in the 5 quart bottle at Walmart. Usually $25 and often on sale for $22.

 

2) Blackstone Labs has said many times they see absolutely no difference between conventional and synthetic oils in their long term tests on fleets of cars and trucks. It's in their FAQ on their website. In fact they see little if any difference in any street oil. So the whole discussion is probably pointless!

Some more on why your engine consumes oil:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa1kqSo3aeM]The Truth About Engine Oil Consumption in a Modern Car | Auto Expert John Cadogan | Australia - YouTube[/ame]

There is another interesting source of oil information:

 

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

This site compares film strength of the popular (and some obscure) oils and goes on to bust some myths about oil technology. Good reading.

 

I read much of this and totally freaked out. Here was someone posting "real data" but unfortunately for me, it practically condemned Castrol 0w30, 0w40, several highly-thought-of Rotella's, and several other Castrol's. I currently use the Castrol 0w30 euro. What seemed to bubble to the top were M1 0w40, M1 5w30 believe it or not, and most QuakerState Ultimate Durabilities (of various weights). Pennzoil Ultra Plats also fared well. Also Amsoil Signature 5w30, and several versions of MaxLife hi-mileage

 

If you choose to be a 540RAT disciple, consider a couple things in his rankings: QSUD 5w30 has "incredible" (his word) anti wear numbers at his normal testing temp (230F), equally impressive at 275F (which he tests a chosen few oils at), but begins thermal breakdown at an in between temp of 260F (hmmm???). M1 5w30 has "incredible" anti wear at 230, but drops off considerably at 275. It's thermal breakdown is at only 255. M1 0w40 is "incredible" at 230, and still so at 275, and has high thermal breakdown temp 285, but he goes on to say it's too thick for most modern engines. Rotella's in general are rated poorly at the 230F, and begin breakdown at 250F-260F. He doesn't say much reassuring about them. PUP is "incredible" at 230, very good at 275, and thermal breakdown at 290, among the best in that regard. (So if I become one of his disciples, that's my chosen one. In fact, I may choose it for my Ecoboost 3.5 van). The Castrol 0w Euro's stink at 230, but have high thermal breakdown temps, 290, same as the PUP. They're NOT the latest versions with TI, nor are they the early green stuff, I presume, so maybe there's hope I haven't ruined my engine using them.

 

There, I just boiled down his 2 gazillion word rant for you, as it might relate to a Subaru 2.5 turbo. Oh wait, he claims over and over that zinc doesn't matter, unless there is too much, then it really hurts.

 

He cast doubt on my pre-conceptions, and opinions. So maybe that's good, but I don't feel I've got much solid ground to base my Castrol 0w30 choice on any more. So now I'm looking at "anti540RAT" blogs/posts. There are some. Also discovered how "thick" these Castrol 0w Euros are at the "cold" temp of 40F. Hmmm

Edited October 5, 2017 by Impatient

I have 150,000 plus miles and nothing wrong with using extra mile valvoline full synthetic. Change every 3 k and you wont have any problems.

There is another interesting source of oil information:

 

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

This site compares film strength of the popular (and some obscure) oils and goes on to bust some myths about oil technology. Good reading.

That guy needs an editor, seriously. Can you say, executive summary?

 

Perhaps some good info buried in all the ranting there.

Well, I haven't seen enough to convince me to switch from Rotella T6 5W-40. It is usually under $20 at Walmart for 1-gallon. It was just on sale at Advance Auto for $18 minus a $5 rebate. I'll keep changing it every 3500-4000 miles at those prices. Edited November 28, 2017 by billbillw

"While I don't doubt it's true, it's one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of in my life. Can these people think of no other option than to drain their oil every night? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/images/smilies/lol.gif . Not the brightest bulbs out there, are they? :rolleyes:"

 

Aircrew of DC-3 cargo aircraft will do this to their piston engines when they fly to northern Canada and let the aircraft sit overnight. I've never heard of someone doing that to a car, though...

"While I don't doubt it's true, it's one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of in my life. Can these people think of no other option than to drain their oil every night? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/images/smilies/lol.gif . Not the brightest bulbs out there, are they? :rolleyes:"

 

Aircrew of DC-3 cargo aircraft will do this to their piston engines when they fly to northern Canada and let the aircraft sit overnight. I've never heard of someone doing that to a car, though...

 

They no longer dilute the oil with fuel ?

I use valvoline 5w 30 conventional

Some more about oil.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99cJ5sHG0oI]Engine Oil Myths Every Car Guy Needs to Know! - YouTube[/ame]

Lately ive been having a oil leak I own a 08 N/A 2.5I and its bothering the hell out me because of the leakage atop of my engine and some below yet its not coming from my drain plug

Oil below could be from many things. Head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, or oil filter area would be my top guesses.

 

Oil on top is strange, thought I could think of a few possible places. Where exactly is the oil on top of your engine?

Lately ive been having a oil leak I own a 08 N/A 2.5I and its bothering the hell out me because of the leakage atop of my engine and some below yet its not coming from my drain plug

 

Start a new thread with pictures of it and keep this thread for the technical aspects of oil itself.

I second this question????????????????????????

 

 

 

Just want to verify: Is Rotella T6 no longer acceptable since they modified the formula? Will likely switch back to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 if so.

 

I decided to try out the Mobil 1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck for an oil change or two. So far so good, I seem to burn slightly less of it than I did with Brotella.

Personally I would never run a 0W oil in a turbo, its way too thin.

 

Personally I don't go with the oil matching the ambient temperature range. Sure it applies when you first turn the key, but after that its irrelevant. The temperature inside the engine and especially the turbo is not affected by the ambient temperature to any great extent.

 

0W oil if you have an oil pressure gauge fitted will become a problem after a couple of thousand km, the idle oil pressure is low and starts jumping about. Been there and done it, had to drain it out at 2000km and change it.

 

I got away with 5W oils like Mobil 1 but I notice even high performance bikes these days are sticking to 10W.

 

I use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in all my cars.

Personally I would never run a 0W oil in a turbo, its way too thin.

 

 

Don't worry about the 0W, it's the figure after the 'W' that's important for when the oil is warm.

 

 

The figure before the 'W' is how well it can come to the goal when it's cold.

If you run an oil pressure gauge you will notice how the hot oil pressure changes as you go from 0W to 5W to 10W.

 

Of course the pressure doesn't tell you what the oil thats getting there is actually doing in terms of lubrication but its a bit unnerving to start seeing low oil pressure at idle.

 

Something like 10W-40 in a full synthetic is still a good pick. You also pretty much get what you pay for in terms of its performance.