Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

For the PS leak, make sure you look at that U shaped seal on the side of the pump. It's a couple bucks at the dealership.

 

I replaced that a few years back.

 

 

 

Are you talking about part number 34492AG000? That's just a metal flange thing on the front of the pump so I'm thinking not. I don't see anything else in the diagrams though.

 

 

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No, there's a seal on the return line on the back or the side, it has two crush type seals the are connected.

item 17

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_42/steering/power_steering_system/illustration_3/

Ah OK perfect. Since I'll be draining the fluid I'll just do it now.

 

There was a break in the rain between late breakfast and going in to work to finish stuff from yesterday, so I changed my clothes and got underneath and noted a few things.

 

The steering rack is leaking at the pressure side. I'm not sure if that's pipe c or d. Not sure what would cause that either as it looks like a metal pipe to a threaded fitting. Maybe it's loose? Maybe new hose? Maybe it needs a rebuild of the valve assembly?

 

The top side seems fairly ok except for what I'm certain is grease coming out of the connection of the valve assembly and the steering column, not sure what the answer is for that either.

 

The axle I keep rambling about doesn't have the detents in the cup that the oe axle does. To me that indicates aftermarket and means as long as it just whines, I'll get an oe reman in spring.

 

With the better lighting it does look like the valve cover leak could be coming from the oil filler neck. It's been mentioned a few times but in reassembly the oring looked OK. I can't confirm without removing the secondary air pump but I can see some oil above the coil packs. I also noticed the other night when topping off the oil that the filler neck is about half full of mayo. I understand this happens due to condensation made worse by repeated short trips. With all that, I'll just be replacing the filler neck and oring either way.

 

 

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Hmm I just found a thread where someone replaced the steering valve assembly due to special tools needed to rebuild it. It seems pretty involved. Maybe it's a thing that waits until spring or maybe even a low mileage rack from a part out.

 

 

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Well decided as much as I want to go ham and replace bushings that aren't making noises and just take care of whatever the steering rack needs, the hole this car has already put me in doesn't allow that.

 

At this point it's going to have to be the minimums. So new rear wheel bearings, the few tools I need for that, trans diff and power steering flush. I'll still get the oil filler neck since it's pretty cheap and hopefully the stop leak will take care of the rack. Get ready for and put money into engine health and tuning.

 

I'll just start setting aside money for the upcoming stuff. Cv axle, bushings, aluminum bits, maybe a rack. I'd rather do it that way I think. It'd be nice to have a "reliable" car I don't have to think about but that's not really what these are.

 

Besides I'd like to get a dog and use extra gas money for skiing.

 

 

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Dog....talk about a money pit... another mouth to feed. Need a dog sitter if you want to go away for a week or two...

 

Now skiing, that's where I'd spend money.

 

Did 16 runs today, almost 24,000ft of vertical. Day 5 this season so far.

 

Staying at the house in VT tonight and skiing Monday, didn't ski in the rain yesterday, have to ski Monday to make up for lost time...LOL Well actually get the legs in shape for skiing over the two week Xmas break.

 

Getting a 11 y/o reliable is key. It's just a car. Don't spend to much on it. There are other things in life.

 

My wagon rolled 284,000 miles on the drive to VT yesterday.

I'm actually at deer valley right now. Due to a hamstring injury I have to sit in the lodge every hour or so that way I don't tear the tendon as I'm restrengthening it. 14 deg and all the rich people are hiding so it's beautiful. Also last day I'll get to go out until January due to holiday travel. Luckily my drive to the mountains is 30-60 min so I don't need to spend much on skiing, just a boot fitting.

 

Yea dog is definitely expensive. Very honestly. I've never had a pet because of that but some of the structure and companionship benefits can be really helpful for crushing depression haha. I've basically always had pets around they were just never mine before this. Would love a big lazy bullmastiff but renting makes that hard.

 

Once it's not having issues in oil leaks and tunes, I'll feel better about it to go bombing the canyons to the ski resorts.

A bullmastiff is a big dog. Eat's a lot LOL. Most of my life had pets, mainly cat's. Dad had dog's back in the 1960's.

 

My drive to VT is just over 2.25 hours from work on Friday's and 2.5 hours to home on Sunday's.

 

Take care of that muscle.

Yea my ex had one. About $150 in food a month. One of my favorite dogs ever though. He was real energetic for about fifteen minutes and then wanted to lay back down.

 

I'm glad to be close to stuff. One of the best parts of slc. Not counting traffic, I can hit 6 resorts in less than an hour. 2 more in about an hour and a half. But yea the muscle care is a big thing. Kept me off my bike this year so after skiing is stretching, strengthening, kt tape, cbd topicals. Along with plenty of water and decent food. No beer.

 

 

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I will say I have been drinking a lot more water lately as well as making an effort to eat better. Never was one for beer and drinking. Figured that out in my early 20's, there are better places to put that money.

 

I do have three screws and a washer in my right knee, well in the tibial plateau from

fracturing it in two pieces, they help to hold the bone graph in from a skiing fall back in March 1999 and 7 screws and a plate in my left collar bone from a pre-release on Dec 19th 2009. Never had a hamstring issue.

 

The knee rehab was intense. But I kept up with the training all summer and fall and entered that season in better shape then ever.

 

This sport is so worth it. Not sure non-skiers would understand.

There are two things I believe in. Fast wagons are life and skiing is sublime. Prove me wrong

Those are quite the injuries. Took a tumble today because poles are confusing and managed to get my pole under the back of my ski. All my injuries always come from boring things like tying my shoes (two blown lumbar discs) and I can't even pinpoint the leg injury. Just sometime after January 2017 while training on the bike likely.

 

As a skiing rock climbing cycling dirt bag wanna be, I don't expect people to get it anymore. Same with the car. My lady friend humors me and let's me show her car stuff. She gets the jdm taillight desire but thought Madrigs hood scoop was silly (putting it lightly).

 

That said for those ski bums elsewhere, I don't get comps anymore but I got an ikon pass so that's half price and a couch. We got 3 ft in the last 5 days and that's not really even that exciting for me anymore.

 

 

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I found a new leak! I was driving, a bit fast, on the highway and thought I smelled something odd. I think I was smelling gear oil. There looks to be a leak of oil towards the back of the transmission. I can see a bit of oil towards the front of the transmission bracket. It's fresh but I can't see anywhere it is coming from. The only thing that looks oily on the transmission body is where the shift linkage enters the back of the transmission. From what I can see, that doesn't actually line up with any likely oil leaks so I'm not sure where to look.

 

I have no idea how old the gear oil is or anything and was planning to change it at the end of the month. I checked it and it's a little low but it won't get much driving between now and then.

There are two switches that thread into the side of the tranny case, check those for leaks.

The oil seal for the shift linkage is notorious to fail and leak. Both of my cars have had a leak there. Not a super bad leak, but enough to make the trans look dirty and stuff.

A look through diagrams again this morning means I think I found what you guys are talking about. Max is referring to the switches 11 and 13 and I think 5 is the oil seal for the shift linkage.

 

That's what I was having trouble with last night is that I couldn't find what I'm guessing is 5. The switches look easy enough. How bad is the shift linkage oil seal? Can I do it on the car? Should I wait until I replace the CV axle and do it all at once?

 

My lady friend is going to drive the outback to and from work, she doesn't drive much, while I'm gone because the inside of the civic windshield is apparently icing over immediately when she starts the car and when I get back I'll be doing stuff to both our cars. I hope the civic isn't anything too crazy, but I won't be able to get under the outback again until the 1st at this point.

I think the proper way is to remove the extended case. I think that is what it is called. It may be possible to do it with the trans on the car. Quiet painful to do I'd think. Personally, if the leak is not that bad, leave it alone.

 

Also, check that you do not have too much trans fluid in there. Maybe if there is too much, it is creating unnecessary stress to the seals.

Nah it's right at the low mark give or take. It was on stands on a slanted parking lot so the front might have been a little high but I think it was about level.

 

Mmmm that's what I was thinking. You can see grime on the shift linkage arm. I'm not sure it's leaking much in dd situations. I was pushing it too hard last night on a long empty highway with an audi so I wouldn't be surprised if the trans got a little over hot or something. But when I pulled the dipstick to check it, it smelled exactly like what I could smell in the car when I backed down.

 

I drive with the outside vents on specifically so I can smell if anything gets weird (I can't smell very well as is). And first thing I did when I got home was crawl under it. I was half expecting some horrible leak.

 

 

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Also going to flash my ecu to have better resolution on the LV and check to see if that flkc reduced itself or is a real issue. I should be able to get a tune in early January. I decided that's probably the most important thing right now to make sure I don't blow the new engine.

 

Since I'm apparently not going to drive in a reasonable manner.

 

 

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Pulling apart the wrecked 5 speed from my parts car this weekend. I'll grab some pictures around the shift linkage input.

That would be excellent. I'd like to, at some point, get another trans and rebuild it myself and swap it into my car. Then probably rebuild the old one and sell it or something. In a few years.

 

 

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The Civic, make sure its on outside air, not recir.

 

Is there a water leak into the passenger side carpet ? That would hopefully be the AC drain hose.

 

Worst case, heater core.

 

After it snows I make sure I leave the windows down an inch on sunny dry day's so the wet carpet from the snowy shoes can dry out.

Edited December 20, 2019 by Max Capacity

Yea I went over those with her. I'm thinking it might be the heater core, which might take it from blown head gaskets that don't really cause over heating and don't show when testing the coolant to a final answer.

 

She says it's the instant she sits in it or turns it over. So it's picking up her breath or something else. Since I'm going out of town I told her to just park it and I'll look at it when I'm back. First thing will be looking for leaks. Compressor is shot so she shouldn't be running that.

 

 

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Pics attached. In short, I think you could replace the input seal with the trans in the car but it'd take a bit of effort. I think doable in a weekend if you don't run into any stuck bolts etc, and don't need to pull things back apart for something silly like a misaligned shift linkage. You can get access to the seal just by removing the extension case at the rear of the trans, but I don't see how you could pull it out without damaging the sealing surface on the shift linkage. Check out pictures to see what I mean.

 

The seal itself sits inside the transfer case. I think you could remove the transfer case with the trans in the car if you can get to all the bolts. Rough procedure would be:

 

1. Remove driveshaft

2. Drain trans.

3. Remove shift linkage from shaft by popping out two roll pins (concentric)

4. Remove bolts securing the extension case to the transfer case.

5. Remove extension case with transfer drive and driven gear assemblies (splined)

6. Remove center differential (splined)

7. Remove bolts securing transfer case to trans.

8. Spray dowel pins that align transfer case to trans with penetrating fluid.

9. Say a small prayer.

10. Carefully take a mallet and knock the transfer case off of the dowel pins. I started with a chisel but it was clear it'd damage the mating surface, so ended up doing it with just a 4 lb sledge. Took about 5 minutes of strategic tapping to pop it off.

11. Remove transfer case with shift linkage.

12. Remove shift linkage from transfer case.

13. Remove and replace seal.

14. Reassemble with replacement transfer and extension case gaskets. I'd also do the output seal at the same time because why not.

Edited December 22, 2019 by awfulwaffle