Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

Did you see a busted line? Or just the coolant? there are bunch of connections that branch out everywhere underneath the throttle body, you may have just missed one.

I can see it seeping out the edge from there.

 

Well dealer doesn't have the hose and other dealer has it but it's on hold. Gonna go back and set the inside of my car up as storage again and then try to pull the tgv and manifold in one piece and take a look to see what I can see.

 

 

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Good to find it now. I had a couple if lingering issues forcing me to go back. It's frustrating fir sure...Take your time a break from it even if you can.

 

Mine ended up needing smaller I/D fuel hose for the passenger rail extension and my coolant crossover manifold pulled the threads out of the passenger head. Some helicoils, fuel hose and a bunch of time taking apart/putting it back together.

 

I now refer to that as the 7th layer of hell (top of the block).

Yeah but if you do it enough times, you get pretty good at pulling the manifold assembly (which probably used to seem impossible). That's gotta be worth something, right? Wow your friends?

I now refer to that as the 7th layer of hell (top of the block).

 

Yeah but if you do it enough times, you get pretty good at pulling the manifold assembly (which probably used to seem impossible). That's gotta be worth something, right? Wow your friends?

 

 

 

Unfortunately I've never pulled it apart in the car. Good practice I guess lol.

 

It is easier this time. I saved a good chunk of the coolant I drained. It was a new pan and new coolant.

 

Now the question is how much do I really NEED to take off. The ac compressor is in the way on the driver side which means all the belts. If I just try to get off the intake manifold, I gotta get the fuel lines apart. I may take the opportunity to just replace any lines under the manifold since they won't come off the hard lines which is why I can't just pull the manifold on its own. Unless I cut the rubber lines holding the uhhh idk big branch thingy where the lines from the firewall connect.

 

 

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here is a screenshot I use for my 06 on a daily basis. I would say in your case, I would check the following:

1. the long term fuel trims (A/B/C/D). These show up on the attached screenshot but these are not available to view by default. However, you can view them when you click the 'LV' button on the app. It will then report these four fields. These are important since they report how much fuel correction the ECU is doing in different load (or driving) conditions. Trim A is idle. Trim B is very light acceleration. Trim C is cruise. Trim D is when you begin to give more throttle than usual and go into boost,etc.. You want these trims to be close to zero (+/- 5%). Positive would mean you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Negative would mean you have a boost leak. The latter should really only show up in the upper trims since in the lower trims, you are under vaccum. But still. Observe these four fields. If they are way off, avoid boost and fix the issue.

 

2. The VVT L/R gauges at the bottom of the screen reports the angle of your oil control valves. You have one on each head. These numbers should be in sync at all times. If they are, this would imply that the OCVs are working as they should. In addition, you can assume the oil is flowing well to the turbo and there is no restriction (remember the banjo bolt filters?).

 

3. Misfire per cylinder. Hopefully you have none at idle. Observe these. A count of 1 or 2 in 'random times' is OK IMO. You do not want repetive counts in a given cylinder. I had that after a head recondition. Shop put the wrong exhaust clearances on one cylinder. I kept getting count up to 12 at idle consistently in a given cylinder. The misfire check engine light is triggered when count reaches like 30-45 I think.

 

4. When you start driving and stuff, check for knock. See the FKC and FLKC gauges. If knock is detected, it will pull timing and you will see the amount in the FKC gauge. If you knock a lot in a given rpm and load, and the ECU takes note of it, it will then register an FLKC value (feedback learned knock correction). Goal is zero knock especially in high load ranges. Knock is bad for ringland.

 

random note 1: I avoid boosting like crazy if intake temps are hot (e.g. after long idle)

random note 2: see if you reach your boost target values when you drive.

 

I hope this helps.

Edited November 5, 2019 by xt2005bonbon

ww

 

 

 

Wow OK. From what I've read, iam should be below 1 anyway until it gets a short drive. I'll update my screen to look like that. I'm running it on my chromebook so plenty of space.

 

 

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From a quick search, at least one person in nasioc was having that cel from a bad battery connection. The radio/ac seems to be common of a messed up wire in the dash. However dash never came apart and it doesn't appear there is any corrosion or issues at the battery connections or alternator connection. I mean the battery ring isn't in great shape but like it's not bad by any means. I wonder if I shorted something.

 

 

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What's vvt and flkc? Variable valve timing and feedback knock correction? One for each side? Misfires is straight forward. I'm not sure what timing degrees or any of the fuel stuff should read. I'm guessing the fuel stuff should be similar between the cylinders.

 

 

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I just updated my post. Have a read.

That's the most thorough thing I've read yet on logging. Super useful, thanks.

 

 

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Videos from earlier of the sound and smoke.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GV8zGxgbL2DVvVVVF-zdrPW_PKLC0JfP/view?usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sai41XlrGy9VxRXM5kX9oFCnz-tkJI0-/view?usp=sharing

 

The first one, where the engine idle is lower, is a little bit later into warm up. On my computer it sounds well, awful. I don't think it sounded that bad in person but either way. Just shot with my iphone so obviously not the greatest audio.

the audio is fine!

 

you said you used some copper seal or something?? maybe thats whats smoking, I've never used the stuff so I can't say what its supposed to do. did you use it on your downpipe as well? seems to be smoking from all the areas you would use that stuff!

looks more like its burning off chemicals to me. Sounds fine to me operating wise, but it seems a bit loud for stock setup. Sounds like you have exhaust leak somewhere. but its hard to tell without being in person, audio in general is funny like that. Edited November 5, 2019 by Tehnation

when u said smoking, I thought you meant real smoke..... it should be smoking, its burning off all that oil/grease from when you did your rebuild. Does it sound louder or the same to you?

Yea it's quite possible there's a small exhaust leak from one of the old pipes that's all over. I wouldn't be surprised if the uppipe had issues, the heat shield is in bad shape.

 

Yea the copper gasket spray is supposed to help seal things. Think I got the idea from jmp. It's hard to remember where I got some ideas at this point lol. I used it at the heads, up pipe and down pipe. I had that thought as well.

 

 

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when u said smoking, I thought you meant real smoke..... it should be smoking, its burning off all that oil/grease from when you did your rebuild. Does it sound louder or the same to you?

 

 

 

Well it sounds loud to me but idk really. Been 5 months since it ran and I had it for one day. The civic has an exhaust leak and missing tailpipe and the outback isn't nearly that loud.

 

So to me it sounds loud and chugging and like it's running rough. But I think it's being worried about the thing and never having my head in the engine bay while also not having worked on subarus. The chugging rough could just be boxer rumble.

 

 

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get a spray bottle and some dish soap and water, spray all the joints where it can leak and look for bubbles, sometimes the classics work the best! Don't do it while its to hot, spray it all down while its cold, start it up and see whats up!

Yea that's likely gonna happen next time around. Right now it's just back to taking the manifold off lol.

 

Fsm shows removing the alternator but I think I'm going to try to not do that.

 

Looking through covert Russians thread on the tgv install, he mentions an ecu grounding bolt on the tgv. I'm wondering if I missed that in install. Could a missed ground cause the radio and a/c to flicker?

 

 

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I agree that it seems you're burning off chemicals. Time to take it for a drive man

 

 

And don't forget to use btssm. You should buy this:https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nexus-7-scranton-pa-280876.html?t=280876

I have btssm running on a similar set up at all time. I am blind without it.

Edited November 5, 2019 by xt2005bonbon

wait do u still have the p0335 code?

 

Did you do a tgv delete? If you did you need to ground the back of the driver side bracket thing on the engine harness, it normally grounds on the tgv i believe! I used like an 4 or 8 gauge wire and grounded it to the driver side frame rail. That will affect engine performance! you need proper spark!

 

If the engine harness isn't grounded properly i would assume you might get random issues.

 

For that code I would clean the crankshaft sensor and then reinstall.

Edited November 5, 2019 by Tehnation

So I've been throwing a bunch of stuff around out of order.

 

I noticed after a few minutes at idle that I had a check engine light. So I cut it off and ran inside to get my laptop so I could check it. That's when I noticed the coolant leak as well. I didn't turn it over again but it had that as a stored code. I'm assuming I still have it technically.

 

I did do tgv deletes and removed that ground at some point but I thought I put it back. I was pretty meticulous about all the connections. The 05/06 have a different fuel rail set up but I think I can pull the manifold without removing everything if I can get it apart right. Going to hunt all my grounds and make sure they are there.

 

I might go ahead and pull the crank sensor and clean it then. That means pulling the alternator but that's not a huge deal and it might make the manifold easier to deal with.

 

 

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I saw that nexus and wanted it haha. I have an old droid turbo SOMEWHERE. I was using it for the code reader with the civic and misplaced it. It's probably under a pile of shit somewhere in there.

 

I'd like to get a cubby pod and run an oil pressure guage and boost guage but I'd also need to have money for any of that haha. For now my chromebook and droid turbo should hold me over. Assuming I ever get to drive the vehicle.

 

And I want to buy an e36 for a rally car next. I must be a masochist. Oh well. It's gonna have to sit until Saturday most likely.

 

 

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there are several grounds for the motor, they are flat braided straps on the bottom of the motor that connect from the engine to the frame rails from underneath the car, there is one on each side i believe, the one on the passenger side goes to the exhaust shield piece that goes over the uppipe to exhaust manifold corner, i think! And for the tgv ground, unless you connected a new wire that you crimped rings onto and ran it to something, u didn't ground it properly, unless you have stock deletes or metal deletes that conduct electricity, my tgv deletes are plastic/carbon fiber/composite something/ or some shit, so I had to run a cable. Not sure what you have!

 

For that leak if its coming out of the ends, then you can most likely fix it with a band clamp!

 

For the code clean the hole and sensor, and make sure all your grounds are good!

 

Actually 3 grounds 1 on passenger and 2 on driver, the one on the bottom and the tgv ground. Or maybe there is just one one the drivers side, but I'm pretty sure there are two, the tgv and one on the bottom.

Edited November 5, 2019 by Tehnation