Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Cincy05LGT's 2005 LGT Build


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 386
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Interesting. Out of curiosity, how much boost did the Kinugawa 16G make with the wastage disconnected? I ran my BNR without the actuator for a week while waiting on parts, and it was still hitting 12psi at upper RPM's.
At WOT my boost gage was pegged at 0 bar. Not sure if maybe the 8cm housing allows more bypass.

Were you totally (mechanically) disconnected, or connected and running spring pressure? The supplied spring with this turbo is 14psi.

Edited by Cincy05LGT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rallysport Direct sent me the wrong heat shield which I unknowingly installed last week and it seemed to kinda fit, but definitely didn't feel quite right. As it turns out, the wastegate arm was contacting the heat shield and causing me to overboost. It probably also contributed to the arm popping off the flapper. During a backroads blast I saw 1.6 bar on the gage while I'm only tuned for 1.3 and it felt INSANE. Luckily nothing bad happened and it didn't lean out on stock injectors. I have an old grimmspeed shield on now and everything is good, so looks like I'm selling a COBB 04-07 STi heat shield.772b1fc3faa0df9c9168e03ffd44e0a2.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just had to do some serious emergency troubleshooting. Car would barely idle and afr was super lean. Checked all over for vacuum leaks and smoke tested, found nothing. Turns out the ECU was pulling fuel due to previous wastegate issue. Ecu reset, runs fine. Damn computers.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I won't be at the races today. My guy from work couldn't get his wife to let him race, and I have too much stuff to do at home. Maybe I'll make it to the next one.

 

No biggie. It was more of a shakedown for the car since I needed to develop confidence again and get some seat time. Despite heavily worn and heat cycled RE11's, I placed 2nd in Street Modified. There were a few spots on track I never quite figured out the best line, and they ended up being costly. All in all it was a great day and the car performed well. I'm still working on keeping both hands planted on the wheel, though a quicker rack will help with this.

 

My quickest run:

My "best" run until the last corner...

2e644c218a7f480efb15d81e5ed17ba2.jpg

Edited by Cincy05LGT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 11 months later...
Flex fuel would be fun.

What's your injector setup look like now?

Currently completely stock sidefeeds. I think the plan will be to use as many inexpensive oem parts as possible to go topfeed with ID1000's.

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No biggie. It was more of a shakedown for the car since I needed to develop confidence again and get some seat time. Despite heavily worn and heat cycled RE11's, I placed 2nd in Street Modified. There were a few spots on track I never quite figured out the best line, and they ended up being costly. All in all it was a great day and the car performed well. I'm still working on keeping both hands planted on the wheel, though a quicker rack will help with this.

 

My quickest run:

My "best" run until the last corner...

 

I'm so cool at autox, I drive with my knuckles :eek:

ChillingAtAutox.jpg.f8e46ed6582be2e48f65105aa99ebb39.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was fixing to comment on your hand placement then your elbow appeared. Cue "Hooks driving test"...

 

You had a good run but just needed to hammer down sooner and brake before inducing understeer. More cowbell, er , throttle.

 

While waiting for your evo class, you can practice hand placement. Wrap a piece of red or yellow tspe at 12 o'clock on steering wheel. Electrical tape works well. Then practice holding the steering wagon wheel at 9 & 3. Do that every time you drive. Try to leave them there all the time. No more elbow/knuckles/etc. The more you practice now the more you can work on other stuff in class.

 

Once you master 9 & 3 hand placement, work on pulling with hand thats on the inside of the turn. Turning right, pull down with right hand and relax left hand grip. Reverse for left hand turn. When returning to center, use opposite hand to gently pull wheel back to center using starting hand as a brake to over pulling. A parking lot at 10mph is a great place to practice this or a neighborhood with lots of turns.

 

Pulling down in direction of turn uses small muscles allowing for a fine control as opposed to the "boxer throwing punches" that comes from pushing the wheel into position.

 

Practice having a quiet upper body. The more you move, the less effort you can put into driving. Long pants and knee pads will help wedge your legs in place until you get the hang of it. If you really want to practice, mount a go pro over the rear passenger seat pointing over your right shoulder. Split the view between the top of your knees and your head.

Edited by boxkita
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

New wheel and tire setup is on. 17x9 RPF1 with 245-40R17 BFG Rival S. Rolled the rears, and trimmed inner fender liners to remedy the rubbing. The grip is unreal already, can't wait to get a performance alignment and get on track, which reminds me, I need more camber.

 

Recommendations on camber plates to grab an extra degree? I'm running KW V2's on OEM tophats. I'm guessing Cusco is the best...e48607a528c9d95e7b6c8911109c60ab.jpgafadbb6c4c5ee06a949ff5b4a27fb0ad.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check with Myles at Racecomp Engineering. I'm running his GT Worx (Vorshlag) units
While very nice, those aren't cheap. Way more than what I need. I'm between the Whiteline Com-C and Cusco pillow ball.

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Been awhile since I've posted on here. The car is still running strong, though it only sees weekend use. I have a few things lined up for it this year in hopes of motivating me to get out to more autox and track day events.

 

Here's the list of maintenance items and mods I've done or plan to do:

 

 

Done:

Enkei RPF1 17x9 et45

BFG Rival S

Rolled fenders and trimmed fender liners

KW V2 coilovers

 

Need to do:

Mevotech Al SpecB LCA

Whiteline front LCA bushings

Whiteline ALK

Camber plates

Upgraded RSB, endlinks, & reinforcing brackets

Whiteline rear camber bolt/eccentric bushing

Performance corner balance alignment

Steering shaft damper coupling delete

2015+ STi steering rack

Replace PS pump

Fix broken 3port EBCS bracket

KB short shifter

 

Once I started typing, the list grew quicker than I thought...

 

Jayson

 

 

 

Replace AC Condenser

Recharge AC

 

 

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Edited by Cincy05LGT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I bought a pair of Mevotech Aluminum front LCA's and very carefully pushed out the rear bushings last night. No damage to the inner bore, bushings came out with moderate pressure. Went to install the Whiteline KCA334 kit, and the slip fit into the bore... which was surprising. I understand they are captured between the frame and triangle plate but shouldn't they at least be a press fit into the arm? Seems a bit odd...

 

Maybe some concurrence on whether this is normal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use