Dash Cam Hard Wire Install

Just completed hard wire of my AUKEY Dual Dash Cam.

Finally have a few minutes to contribute a quick "how I did it".

I'll check-in after a week to report issues or all-is-good.

(Really struggling with the forum file limitations)

 

Aukey Dual Dash Cam:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hard Wire Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0765683WG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A dash cam is the next thing I plan to install on my car. I want the rear camera too.

Did you take any photos of how you ran the cable for the rear camera?

I see some reviews that the cable is too short. Also, how did you run the cable without interfering with the side airbags?

Does this camera connect to a phone at all?

Buy a Blackvue DR590W-2 Channel. Far better unit and you will be extremely happy with it.

 

https://www.thedashcamstore.com/blackvue-dr590w-2ch-ir-1080p-dual-lens-dashcam-for-front-and-inside-recording-with-wifi/

 

I just finished installing this setup in my Wife's 2017 Forester XT and it turned out beautifully and it is ranked as one of the best units on the market. Blackvue and Thinkware are top rated and known as the two best dash cams on the market. I have a fiberglass wire fish rod that is over 12 feet long that I used to use running wires in the security industry. I took off the A-pillar trim and pulled down the rear headliner slightly and placed the wire on the fish rod and it went right back without issue...install looks like it was professionally done. I also tied it into Blackvue's Power magic Pro box so that it operates while the car is parked to pickup any motion and shock and record someone backing into you. It's only $19.99 when you buy the camera. It also prevents the car battery from dying by shutting off the camera when the car's battery hit 12.0VDC. I am an ANAL engineer and research things to death. Not saying that what the OP bought is bad, just FAR better units out there if you are willing too spend a bit more. The rear camera cable that came with mine could have fit a Yukon or Tahoe XL...it was far longer than anyone would ever need.

securityguy: I absolutely agree with the Blackvue being top-of-the-line.

At nearly $400.00 (including needed options) it was out of my price range.

The Aukey was half that and though not perfect, does a fine job.

Maybe I'll upgrade in the future.

 

capttris: Yes I took some photos of the install and will put them here when I get some free time.

Cable length was plenty and even needed to coil an extra foot or so under rear seat.

NOTE: I installed it to RH side of the rear window, below the antenna so camera can benefit from rear window defrost.

I ran the cable right along-side the front pillar wiring (Outboard as to not interfere with the curtain airbag if it is deployed).

The front & rear floor RH side sill covers are easily removed which is where I ran the rear camera wire.

Then inside the RH rear pillar.

The camera isn't designed to connect to a phone. You can take out the MicroSD and use an adapter/reader if you need to view on your phone.

I'm just going to say do your research on dash cameras.

 

But at the very least get one. Don't worry about the high cost of getting the best one. It's better to have one then not to have one.

 

And I personally think the high cost of the blackvue it not worth it, it's way over priced.

 

But like I said do some research and there are good options out there, around the $100 range. The really cheap ones are junk but I would still say better then nothing.

 

Hint, look into the A119 and the various versions based off that design, which what the OP's is based off of.

 

Sent from my LG-H933 using Tapatalk

I disagree that the Blackvue is "overpriced" as you do get what you pay for in this case. I do agree that the Viofo A119S is a good low-end camera as is the Street Guardian. If you are on a budget, these are a couple of your best options.

 

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/viofo

I completely agree that you get what you pay for.

 

I got rear-ended (by a flipping lawyer out of all the people) and he started to argue with me that the damage on my car was not "that much"

 

This was in the rain at night through Blackvue's rear cam!!!! Blackvue captured the idiot being on his phone at the time he rear ended me. The cost of the repairs were over $2400 plus a rental car while my car was at the shop. Having this on video killed any potential arguments and he contacted his insurance company and admitted fault.

 

Having a high-end dual cam system paid itself off just by that incident alone IMO.

 

My 650 is 3 years old now and works like a champ!

I completely agree that you get what you pay for.

 

I got rear-ended (by a flipping lawyer out of all the people) and he started to argue with me that the damage on my car was not "that much"

 

This was in the rain at night through Blackvue's rear cam!!!! Blackvue captured the idiot being on his phone at the time he rear ended me. The cost of the repairs were over $2400 plus a rental car while my car was at the shop.

 

Having a high-end dual cam system paid itself off just by that incident alone.

 

My 650 is 3 years old now and works like a champ!

 

Don't really want to argue but having a dual camera didn't change that outcome.

 

Unless the laws are different there, if you get rear ended it doesn't mater what he was doing it was still his fault. Your front cam would prove you weren't moving and then got hit from behind. If you've stopped and he runs into a stopped car its automatically his fault. Which thankfully a single cam can prove.

 

Having rear cam is definitely nice to have but not too many scenarios where it is needed.

 

By all means spend as much money as you want but spending the most doesn't always equal getting the best. Or paying more then necessary for "the best".

 

 

Realistically, I wouldn't mind having all of the sides of my car being recorded to prove if you change lanes into a clear lane and someone moves into the same lane without looking and drives into the side of you. That is hard to prove with even a dual camera system. But again if you are maintaining your course and someone runs into the side of you a single cam can prove that also.

 

BTW two places that have dash cam reviews

Good forums with tons of info:

https://dashcamtalk.com/best-dash-cams-of-2018/

Don't know anything about just found on a quick google search:

https://www.carcamcentral.com/guide/best-dash-cams-car-dvrs-black-boxes-of-2018

 

And here's actually a decent comparison, which say the blackview 750 actually uses the same sensor as the A119S, that of course is only part ov the overall camera as you can see in the video.

 

 

Of course you could also just use two single camera. And at the end of the day the really unfortunate part is there isn't any really good dash cameras out there right now. Most are pretty damn good in daylight but most won't get you a license plate unless you are stopped at a light, in the dark.

I did watch that video you posted and found that the pics taken by the 750S were clear and legible...those on the A119S were not on moving objects.

 

I agree that none of us are looking to argue but the DR750S and the DOD blew them all away. For me, personally, I want license plates captured while in motion...the cheaper A119S didn't do that. It is about far more than all having a Sony Starvis sensor...it's about the cameras electronics, lens materials and firmware that make the difference. To get a single channel Blackvue 590W just cost me $159 for my wife's 17 Forester XT so for another $40-$50 I got a kickass camera with full wifi capability and picture quality that's hard to dispute.

 

To anyone looking to add this to their vehicles...as was stated several times, do your research and stay away from Amazon as there are very reputable companies like blackboxmycar, The dash Cam Store and Dash Cam Bros that will sell you a quality unit and support to back it up at the same cost as Amazon. You don't have to spend a ton to get a quality unit like a Blackvue or Thinkware as, again, my DR590W was only $159 with free shipping and has a parking mode too that is very beneficial that most folks overlook.

 

Again, you really do get what you pay for...in this case;)

Well to put that all into perspective. For the most part yes the blackvue did capture plates more often then the A119S on moving object. But not always and the blackvue did much worse then the A119S on not moving objects and it was worse during the night. Additionally the actual video quality was worse during the day if you were interested in just the general video itself.

 

Thankfully there is enough information out there that everyone can make thier own decision. But people must remember to take in all the factors, major one being firmware (the A119S was on version 1 so lots of room for improvement). And I'm sure the blackvue has had updates also.

 

 

Point I'm trying to make is the blackvue isn't the best, neither is the A119S (btw no vested interest in this model/vifo or what have you just playing devils advocate). There is no best, just like most things it's whichever is best for each individual and what they want.

 

I guess that's what got to me was the implication that the blackvue is the best and if you spend a lot you will get the best.

 

Just wanted others to know to look into what they are going to buy rather then blindly buy the most expensive because its "the best".

 

And price wise it sounds like you did very well but that doesn't look like the going price so if you can get it cheaper then it changes things drastically.

 

And for contrast I did buy one online and the first one had an issue, seller didn't have any problem sending out a replacement. It also is likely it could have been fixed by a later firmware but it was new at the time and the new firmware wasn't available at the time so it's likely it wasn't actually a hardware failure. Been solid for 2

years now.

 

Unless the laws are different there, if you get rear ended it doesn't mater what he was doing it was still his fault.

 

It gets hairy when you are not stopped and multiple cars are involved. The slimy insurance company will try to say that it was part your fault that you hit the guy in front and didn't maintain a safe distance... It helps to be able to prove that it was after contact in the rear that you then got pushed into the car ahead.

And price wise it sounds like you did very well but that doesn't look like the going price so if you can get it cheaper then it changes things drastically.

 

Totally agree with you @nevets27 and I never implied that the most expensive is the best. You did misread my post though. I paid $269 for my DR750S. I paid $159 for my wife's DR590W. The 590 is basically the 750S minus cloud connectivity and no built-in GPS. The prices I posted are what everyone can buy them for on-line if you check the links I provided...I got no special deal:icon_sad:

 

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/blackvue/products/blackvue-dr590w-1ch-dash-cam?variant=7083625021495

 

I will also add that, now that I have both the DR750S and the DR590W, the video that person made, he clearly did not have the software setting optimized through the phone app that connects to the camera as his view was darker. Factory default doesn't even look like that. My camera pics look far different than his (brighter and mine is set at 60fps in FHD mode) and I am guessing it could be a combination of a potential firmware upgrade and settings but it is what it is...not all internet videos are unbiased and, as an owner of the BV, mine looks nothing like his video.

 

I have no skin in this game either...I just hate seeing people blindly buy "crap" off Amazon when for not much more money, you can get a great quality unit. Off my soap box and folks can either listen or ignore the great advice posted by a few of us that have replied to the thread:)

Wow...

I always enjoy active discussions but we're getting a wee bit off topic (partly my fault so I apoligize).

 

Here's a thread discussing Dash Cams:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dash-cams-263404.html?t=263404&highlight=dash+cam

 

I'd like to keep this focused on hard-wire methods/issues/questions.

Yeah sorry about that painless

I have been installing car stereos, car alarms and concealed radar detectors since I was 15. I am an EE now and just love electronics and tinkering. The method you used @painless is spot on my friend. Using Fuse Taps is the ONLY way to go. I, for one, do not like crimping so I cut the ends off and solder the connection and then heat shrink the connection. Just bought a pack of over 200 heat shrink tubes in various diameters on Amazon for under $10. Every connection in a car should be soldered for the highest reliability. When grounding, use a round soldered lug terminal attached to a screw connected to bare metal for the strongest ground.

 

In looking at your pics, you used a 7.5A fuse on the accessory side of the tap. If I were you, I'd pull that fuse and replace it with a 2A.

Just ordered the BlackVue DR590W-2CH Dual Channel WiFi Dash Cam with a 32gb card, power magic pro and external GPS.

 

All delivered for $304.99

 

 

Purchased from https://www.blackboxmycar.com/products/blackvue-dr590w-2ch-dash-cam?variant=6844741287991

 

promo code: "DR590WLAUNCH" to save $15

 

 

Thanks for all the info.

@Jimle1301...you are going to love it. PM me if you need any help or have any questions and I'll send you my cell number. I used their code for my DR750S set-up and got $25 off. Great folks and solid pricing.

@Jimle1301...you are going to love it. PM me if you need any help or have any questions and I'll send you my cell number. I used their code for my DR750S set-up and got $25 off. Great folks and solid pricing.

 

Thanks, should have it on the 20th. Install my be the following week.

If I understand your wiring correctly, your dashcam will be always running? Is this meant to capture video while your car is parked?

 

How many hours will it record before being looped over?

 

The dashcam I have, records about 10 hours I believe before it loops over. But since it only captures video while driving (and a minute after power off) that works out to about a week of driving. In all cases, that has given me enough time to go back and review footage should I need to. However, if it records all the time, that really only gives me 10 hours to go back and get any footage before it's written over.

With a 64GB SD-card, you will get about 10-11 hours of FHD recording. Yes, they all are designed to loop over. The Power Magic Pro box allows the dash-cam to work in parking mode. Once you turn the car off, the PMP keeps the camera running until your battery reaches 12.0VDC and then shuts down the camera to protect the battery. My camera in my wife's 17 Forester will operate for a solid 24 hours before shutting down. Not a single issue with the vehicle starting. On my dash-cam, I can "protect" all files that record an event like a bump or hit to the vehicle. These will NOT be written over so you know the event was saved due to some type of vehicular impact.

 

Here is my install posted on thread 16 in the Forester forum. Picture #2 is the PMP box install.

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/dash-cams-eyesight-vehicles-765921/index2.html

Finally getting around to an update.

(Took a bit as I wanted it to include solution)

 

After install, began getting unusual intermittant side-effects:

 

1. TPMS Warning

2. Key fob range reduced to a few feet

3. Radio seemed to have a harder time picking up stations

 

After a bit of research & troubleshooting, discovered the wire bundle leading from the TPMS & Keyless Entry Control Module in the trunk to the Cabin Fuse Panel (in LWR LH Dash) and sensors runs along the front & rear floor RH side sill.

 

This is where I ran the cable to the rear camera.

 

So...

I removed it and routed it down LH pillar (again, outboard of the curtain airbag), under the LH lower door sills, up along the LH back seat (pull the weather stripping and it easily lays-in) and out the base of the LH rear pillar.

Solved issues #1 & #2.

 

I lowered the rear camera it an additional 4" or so to keep it further from the antenna fitted to the top 3" of glass on the rear window (looks just like the rear defrost lines).

Solved issue#3.

 

NOTE: As the camera is on the left, I made a small plastic wedge to fit between the mount and glass to compensate for the curve of the window.

Now image is level.

 

All performing normally with no faults for three days now.

Will update this thread if needed.

Has anyone tried hard-wiring a dash cam using the power going to the rear view mirror? I'm thinking about getting a dash cam and with having Eyesight cameras, it seems like it would be the cleanest installation if it's possible.

^^^you can do that if you wish

I am a big dan if the Viofo camera, it is cheap price, great video quality and works even in EXTREME temps (-30F to about 150F in my case). The other big advantage is that it is not readily visible on the windshield from the outside.

 

No need imho to spend big bucks on a cam, just get a good one./

 

Has anyone tried hard-wiring a dash cam using the power going to the rear view mirror? I'm thinking about getting a dash cam and with having Eyesight cameras, it seems like it would be the cleanest installation if it's possible.

 

I would not recommend that as the car's power is not regulated and the voltage is all over the place. there are multiple kits that work with your fuse box and the wires can be tucked along the a pillar and in the headliner

After looking more closely, I think there may be enough space to pass the cord over one of the Eyesight cameras so that's probably the best route. Thanks!