Dangerzone3 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Hey guys, I've been looking around on the internet to get an answer as to if my car has the phase 1 or phase 2 ej22. Mainly so I can figure out the timing belt interval. The phase 1 is the non-interference engine and has an interval of 60,000 miles (100,000 kilometers) and the phase 2 is an interference engine that has an interval of 105,000 miles (about 165,000 kilometers). However, I am getting very different answers as to when the switch happened. Some resources said that the phase 2 started after 94, another resource says it started in 97, another resource said 98, and another resource said 99. I'm just looking for some clarification so I can know if my car has the interference or non-interference engine and so I can replace the timing belt. BTW my car is a 97 Brighton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 '99+ is phase 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 ^+1 In addition all EJ engines are interference from 97 on. And to clarify the phase 2, it has nothing to do with interference. I don't know why some vendors put this question into their belt info. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangerzone3 Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Ok sounds good. So 99+ is phase 2 but 97 up is interference. Does this make my timing belt interval 60,000 or 105,000?? I'm guessing the fact that it is an interference engine makes the interval change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 If it has not been changed to your knowledge, change it, with all the idlers, tighten screws on oil pump and you're good for another 100K. In either case the interval is 105 months OR 105 kmiles, whichever comes first. Some would also change the water pump as a preventative measure. The interference question is moot. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 the ej22 went to the 105 interval in 99 w/ the phase 2 engine. but the ej25 was always 105k miles / months. and in california, the ej22 was 105k before the 99 change, 96 maybe. and you can buy a 105k belt for the 90 - 98 ej22. the last ime i looked at advance auto parts, the one in stock was a 60k belt and it cost more. the special order belt was 105k and cost less. but if you use the 105k belt, you damn well better replace EVERYTHING. it is not likely that an idler pulley with 120k miles on it will last another 105k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waxmanak Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I just bought a 1995 wagon and it has an engine swap in it. The engine in it is ej22. Is there any way to tell if it is non interference by looking it over? I hope I have the non interference version. Thanks for your knowledge. wax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 You have the non interference if it is the original motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 The only way to know for sure which engine is in it is to read the VIN, which is stamped on the pass side on a flat surface above the axle. It is covered in grime and is vertical stippling. A search may turn up pics of this location. It is hard to read though while the engine is in the car. A mirror may help. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 the 95 is a little easier to tell than 96 - 98. crawl under the car and look at where the exhaust pipe bolts to the head. 2 ''lumps'' in the pipe, 2 exhaust ports and 3 bolts means it has dual port heads and it is non-interference. another way to tell is to remove the valve cover. if you have screw and lock nut valve adjusters it is interference. it there is no apparent valve adjusters, then you have non-interference. there may be a few vehicles that do not fit these conditions, when making the change from one type to another, they may not have always made the change with the new model year. but the chances of you ''learning'' about it by busting a timing belt or idler are pretty slim. so regardless of which type you own, it is good to do all the required maintenance as scheduled. a timing belt failure on a non-interference engine may not damage valves, but if you are more than 50 miles from home when it happens, the tow and repair is going to be expensive. not to mention inconvenient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waxmanak Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Thank you! I have two exhaust ports. So, I guess I have a non-interfering engine. No worries about Maintenance Johnegg. I will certainly go after the timing belt/water pump soon. I just replaced struts, lower ball joints, cv axles, tie rods (inner and outer) and brakes. Also changed fluid in transmission, rear end, oil of course and radiator. This 20 year old car rides like it's brand new. I studded the tires(Alaska) and detailed the interior. Everything is solid but I noticed one small issue...The drive axles on front differential (standard transmission) have a small amount of play (in/out). Should this be a concern? 1995 Legacy 220K miles EJ22. wax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 The drive axles on front differential (standard transmission) have a small amount of play (in/out). Should this be a concern? as long as the axle nuts are torqued at the wheel end, and the roll pins are in place at the trans end, i would not worry. they could be old and wearing, but they will usually start to ''click'' when they go bad. if they have green inner cups at the trans end they are suabrua axles. i would re-boot when the boots tear, rather than replace. suabru axles run for ever if you keep grease in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waxmanak Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I was not clear. The axles are new. the play is in the differential. The small splined stubs that connect to the drive axles. I see there is a preload adjustment of sorts on the differential. Should I mess with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hello; Leave it alone, check the oil level and drive it! Best regards, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I see there is a preload adjustment of sorts on the differential. Should I mess with it? Hello; Leave it alone, check the oil level and drive it! Best regards, Steven. to amended what he said, HELL NO!!! just drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waxmanak Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Ok. thanks for the advice guys! I'm going to try and take this car to 300K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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