05 LGT rear u-joint replacement

Hey Guys,

 

The rear u-joint on my Rocketbaru has a bit of play in it. The dealer wants $997.00 for a replacement non-servicable drive shafthttp://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif.

1 - Does anyone know the engineer who designed this drive shaft? I'd like to punch him in his stupid head. jk

2 - Have any of you had any success servicing these u-joints?

 

Thanks much,

 

TC

Propeller shaft assembly, 27111AG04A

 

That's one of the shafts for a 05 sedan. Trying to find for a wagon. The built date is important.

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/train/propeller_shaft/

 

that may be for the 05 wagon 5mt.

 

I'll try and find a price.

 

 

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/LEGACY/?siteid=216335&vehicleid=1430733&diagram=F731045

 

$560.91

 

You may have better luck talking to a driveshaft shop ask around the local auto parts stores, somebody will know who to send you to. Maybe a body shop that does a lot of restorations.

 

Good Luck.

 

May be a junk yard

Link to my ^mt swap thread. If you going to spend that much for a new OEM drive shaft. Check these guys out. For $650, they will build you a 100% rebuildable drive shaft.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1387540&postcount=87

 

 

Mike

Thanks gents,

 

After contacting 8 driveline shops around me I found one who can rebuild the shaft to my satisfaction and so is serviceable in future.

I'll post up some pics and advise for future reference once it's done.

 

Cheers,

TC

Great see if they'd like you to put there name and info in a sticky here.

I am heading down the same rabbit trail but a different subbie model. I am amazed because I thought Subbies didn't have any engineering nightmares but apparently they do. The U joint replacement is one of them. Sometimes I think engineers are just mean people! Who and why would the ever, ever design such a thing!

 

 

Hey Guys,

 

The rear u-joint on my Rocketbaru has a bit of play in it. The dealer wants $997.00 for a replacement non-servicable drive shafthttp://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif.

1 - Does anyone know the engineer who designed this drive shaft? I'd like to punch him in his stupid head. jk

2 - Have any of you had any success servicing these u-joints?

 

Thanks much,

 

TC

From the beginning;

 

I pulled my drive shaft so I could replace a sweating front seal on my rear differential. As I removed it I noticed the rear u-joint had some free-playhttp://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif. I was kind of happy that I had found the source of the vibration I had noticed at highway speeds. I had previously though a wheel was out of balance. Easy peasy, I'll replace the u-joints and problem solved, Right? WRONG!

 

On closer inspection I noticed the the u-joint cups didn't have clips holding them in. A quick search on the interwebz revealed the cups were "stacked" in and not serviceablehttp://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/stakedu-joint_zpse6cff79a.jpg

 

WTF? Have modern automotive engineers forgotten about the 1960's and 70's?

Back in the day, we all used to carry spare u-joints around in the trunks of our 600+hp cars so we could make it home from the dragstrip under our own power.

 

Next a call to the dealership parts guy; Sorry sir, we can't recommend rebuilding that, others have tried and failed. We've got a nice shiny new one for you for $997.00http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif

 

I called around to a half dozen driveline shops and got schooled;

First up, the cheapskate way to buy more trouble;

I found a number of shops that would press out my old u-joint and press in a replacement, then tack weld it in place.

Here's and example;

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/ujoint_weldedcap1_zps9a6e8507.gif

 

This^^ is proof that not all driveline repair shops are created equal. The majority of shops I spoke to recommended this method as a viable repair. It's not serviceable, may damage the yokes and, most importantly, will be very difficult to balance. The thought of an out of balance drive shaft spinning at 4000rpm under your car should frighten you! It's a bad idea. Period .

 

Replacement serviceable u-joints are available for most "stacked" driveshafts.

Here's the ones that went into my Legacy;

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/16BB3A6A-0DB0-4E3B-8097-4A7BFBC0CC83-22669-00002D270D66BDC1_zps714b76f2.jpg

 

Here's My drive shaft ready for transport to the shop; Note; protect the front yoke coupling to the transmission. If you damage the finish on this it could start leaking.

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/E3C83424-6696-401C-B21A-479F00942F6B-22669-00002D2714B952CB_zps70c738bc.jpg

 

The most complicated part of this repair is getting the new u-joints centered in the yokes. We're talking about thousands of an inch here! Because the yokes were not designed for clipped in cups they're not machined on the inner surfaces. This is were the skills of a top notch drive line technician and drive shaft balancer are called for. Subaru's are notorious for causing trouble in this regard.

 

Here's my drive shaft just back from balancing with serviceable, grease-able u-joints;

 

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/7A7C3C9C-C369-4AEB-BAFB-E6A7F6A4357B-22669-00002D27080E1126_zps8a4cd5a0.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/92A958CE-411B-4140-8EDB-75F63CD773AD-22669-00002D2700D9AF60_zps2ee0bc71.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/timothycharles2/41928809-6784-4DE3-8B8D-35B9C1E18619-22669-00002D26FB0D3429_zpsc9a7b098.jpg

 

The drive line shop I dealt with has developed their own techniques for centering the new u-joints in Subaru's. Their balancing shop also has special techniques for getting these drive shafts right! The cost was $225 per joint + $140 for balancing. Well worth it in my opinion as I now have a drive shaft I can service myself in future.

 

I dealt with Midway Driveline in Ajax, Ontario for this repair. Rick and Joe are great guys with a lot of drive line experience. midwaydriveline@gmail.com

 

Cheers,

TC

Thank for another option, but you just sent almost $600 (225x2+ 140 =590). Did you check out the shop that did my drive shaft for my 6MT swap in post above. For around $50 more, you get a shaft that 3X strong & 100% rebuildable with U-joint you can get at any auto parts store & you can rebuild it yourself.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070022.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070017.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070033a.jpg

 

IMO this is a better option if you going to spend anything close to $600.

 

Mike

Glad you got it fixed.

 

But like you said, back in the 70's I carried a spare U joint in my 340 4-speed Duster, I did change it on the side of the road one day.

 

I also learned to carry a throttle cable with me too. I guess to much WOT would snap the wires in the cable.

When I was driving lifted, big tire 4x4's. I had u-joints, acc belts, starter & can for Starting fluid (works nice to pop a tire back on when you roll it off the bead of the rim).

Thank for another option, but you just sent almost $600 (225x2+ 140 =590). Did you check out the shop that did my drive shaft for my 6MT swap in post above. For around $50 more, you get a shaft that 3X strong & 100% rebuildable with U-joint you can get at any auto parts store & you can rebuild it yourself.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070022.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070017.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0915070033a.jpg

 

IMO this is a better option if you going to spend anything close to $600.

 

Mike

I did read about your swap and shop. I even checked shipping costs. Sadly, drive shafts are large and heavy which made that a very expensive option.

My shaft can be serviced now just like yours and the joints in mine are readily available. I've missed your point there:confused:

I'm content with the strength of the stock shaft and it's weight should be less then that bigger upgrade.

I did read about your swap and shop. I even checked shipping costs. Sadly, drive shafts are large and heavy which made that a very expensive option.

My shaft can be serviced now just like yours and the joints in mine are readily available. I've missed your point there

I'm content with the strength of the stock shaft and it's weight should be less then that bigger upgrade.

 

Quote from you,

The most complicated part of this repair is getting the new u-joints centered in the yokes. We're talking about thousands of an inch here! Because the yokes were not designed for clipped in cups they're not machined on the inner surfaces. This is were the skills of a top notch drive line technician and drive shaft balancer are called for.

TC

 

My point was, now you have replaceable u-joints. Can you replace then yourself or do need to take it back to shop to get them centered just right & the shaft rebalanced again.

 

Back in 07, the local drive line shop used in the past for custom shafts for trucks. Told me that they didn't have a u-joint that would fit the stock yokes. Glade you can get them now.

 

In the end if you're happy, that's all it matters.

 

Mike

I did read about your swap and shop. I even checked shipping costs. Sadly, drive shafts are large and heavy which made that a very expensive option.

 

Sorry , I didn't see you live in Canada.

Quote from you,

 

My point was, now you have replaceable u-joints. Can you replace then yourself or do need to take it back to shop to get them centered just right & the shaft rebalanced again.

 

Mike

 

The yokes have been machined to accept the new joints, they're centered now and will be fine to service with no future balancing required.

Sorry to bump an old thread, and I havent seen anything else about this so Ill just post this here.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Drive+Shaft!s!Prop+Shaft/01430/C0362.oap?year=2005&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&vi=5018006

 

These are serviceable (greaseable even). One of them is not, but I think it is just an option as the serviceable ones, cover all the models of GT, plus regular Legacys

 

And theyre Limited Lifetime Warranty

Good to see that someone else has found that ^^. 936-955 is the part number for 5speed. But the joints look to be the same as the oem non replaceable part, just able to grease them. But at $400 shipped on ebay that just might be a good option if the extra $250+ isn't in the plan for some of us to get a nice custom made shaft

Oh yeah, reddragon. I see you have two b15 sentra specV's. I really miss the hell out of my 04. Traded it in for the legacy after a hail storm raped the hell out of it in a matter of minutes.

Happy motoring!

FWIW, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/propeller-shaft-my-story-246593.html

So much for that. I'm sure I'll be venturing down this road soon just because I have talked about it here. The lgt always hits the wall of whatever I question or research. Such a bad relationship I have with it

Max, I don't think I found that because I was looking for universal joint and drive shaft instead of propeller shaft. Good to know and thanks for sharing. I have a 5EAT in mine. Hopefully this part will fit mine. If not then these Dorman shafts are only good for non turbo models it would seem.

 

KRM, yeah my 02 is my track car. It has an SR20VE in it with SR16 pistons which will give it a higher compression ratio. It's sitting around 14:1 and it's gonna be tuned for E85 when I finish putting the car back together.

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I had a question.

So I have a 2005 Legacy GT and it developed an annoying vibration felt mostly under acceleration. I pulled the driveshaft and took it to a local driveshaft shop. I am not positive, but it looks like they managed to press out the old, staked in u-joints and fit some other u-joints with clips and zerk fittings. I asked if they were able to balance the driveshaft afterwards, because I feared they may have warped the damn thing from using a press. The owner then asked me, "Why would it need balancing? Were you in an accident?" He made it seem like I was a complete twat. And assured me it didn't need balancing and that they didn't have the right fixture to balance it anyway. I installed it in the car and the majority of the vibration is gone. But there is still some. I did notice that the driver side inner cv boot was torn and may have been all winter. I ordered a new axle and am waiting for it at the moment. So the question is, could a bad cv joint be causing the vibration, or did those hillbillies turn my driveshaft into Michael Strahan's toothpick?

I'm thinking the bad CV is your vibration.

 

Let us know.

I'm thinking the bad CV is your vibration.

 

Let us know.

 

Thanks Bud. Axle came in today. Will see if the weather will allow me to put it in this weekend. Sure hope this solves my problems. I was seeing a good amount of knock at random times on my AccessPort before the u joints were replaced and although there is still a little bit here and there the majority of it disappeared when I put the driveshaft back in. How fricken sensitive does Subaru run their knock sensors?! Picking up driveline vibration? Good God!

Replaced the axle, lower control arms and end links. Still vibrates. It even shakes the wheel cruising on the interstate. Higher speed seems to make the vibration stronger. I feel it in the steering wheel and slightly on my 5EAT shifter. Maybe a transmission mount? It does it with both my summer and winter wheels so I have ruled that out. I'm getting pissed with this whole situation. Doing the trans mount, plugs, and pitch stop next. Anyone have anymore suggestions? I don't hear any wheel bearing noise. Anyone want to build me a custom driveshaft for $400? Anyone want to trade a Saab 92X Aero for my Legacy?? Max Capacity; covertrussian; Merc6; anyone?

You might want to think about a used propeller shaft from a junk yard or http://www.car-parts.com may be they did do something to yours.

 

 

Or, HAMMERDOWN's post from above.

 

 

Mine was the carrier bearing going bad. I could feel it in my right elbow as it rested on the consul.