What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Say no more!

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mi-wagon-hatch-garnish-jdm-282515.html?t=282515

 

 

 

 

Thanks! I am in no hurry, the car mostly sits in the garage since the work from home started.

I was thinking of doing one of the home kits but was told by friends with nicer garages to have it done professionally. So another contractor to look at after quarantine. As for the lift, leaning towards the direct lift propack 8000lb.

 

And yes Famaya, it is a 1994 JDM ST205 Celica GT4. AWD, 2.0ltr turbo, with a five speed rated at 250hp from the factory. It’s a blast to drive and RallyX.

 

When you do have it done, do you mind sharing what materials/methods the contractor used? I have heard too that it's best to go with someone doing this professionally. At the same time couple guys at work were happy with the results they had with some Lowe's kits.

 

 

I am on hold with any car projects for now, priorities. But planning for the future.

 

Via an accident (flipped a full paint tray), I discovered Behr's primer works pretty good. It's useless when its get wet. However its held up surprisingly well for $50/1500sf.

 

I looked into epoxy professionally applied, which involves a thorough cleaning, etching and application. Plus it came with a warranty. Quote was $7000/1500sf.

 

griots/home depot/rustoleum/etc diy solutions require thorough cleaning and etching before painting. This seemed to be the key for good adhesion. Any oil or gas left on the floor will ruin the finish.

 

A white floor really makes the space brighter as well as making almost all parts instantly visible when the land on the floor.

 

 

I was looking into doing a polyurea coating instead of epoxy. A little more expensive, but I think it's more DIY friendly and a better material overall. Have any of you ever heard of or looked into that? It doesn't seem like there's any downside besides cost, but I haven't really researched it much beyond that.

Anyone know where to find the best deal on a 2015+ sti steering rack? Mine has sprung a leak.

I was looking into doing a polyurea coating instead of epoxy. A little more expensive, but I think it's more DIY friendly and a better material overall. Have any of you ever heard of or looked into that? It doesn't seem like there's any downside besides cost, but I haven't really researched it much beyond that.

 

I had a product called “Flexmar” installed at my last house. It is a polyaspartic coating. It was very durable, had anti-slip, and looked good. That is my only experience with any coating.

I bought mine a couple weeks ago from this seller:

 

https://www.ebay.com/i/293188090535?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D5009fb2ee6674b6a85babac0887071bc%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D13%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D293179942531%26itm%3D293188090535%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefault

 

$400. 2018 (probably low miles). A bent tie rod or two. This is the cheapest I could find.

Thanks but I’m buying new.

Finally got the next datalog off to dave @cryotune, my car has been locked in at my work for weeks!

Can't wait for the next step. It's already been feeling great so far

 

 

now in the right section...

saw a gorgeous blue wagon w/ jdm tails & big exhaust flying on i5 north bound in Seattle. California plates. Brembos. Anyone on here?

Anyone know where to find the best deal on a 2015+ sti steering rack? Mine has sprung a leak.

 

 

I got mine from a local junkyard for about $270 (located via car-part), but it was missing the hydraulic lines and the RH inner tie rod, boot, etc. I'm gonna buy a leaky 2012 rack off a friend to salvage the parts I'm missing for about $100, so under $400 all-in for me.

 

 

There was a guy on NASIOC selling a stockpile of them, but not sure if he's still got any left.

Maybe check Craigslist for Subaru part outs. There's usually a few Subaru specific shops between Atlanta and Charlotte that collect and part out cars, STis are usually the headline attention grabbing listings.

 

Obviously different part of the country so ymmv, but it's something I've noticed among larger cities.

Today I replaced my battery and drove it after installing a cylinder 4 coolant mod and replacing all of my aos lines.

 

My exide edge agm battery was less than 3 years old. Voltage was down to 7 volts and my battery tender kept giving faults so I replaced it with a Napa Legend agm battery. They are made by East Penn and the same as the Deka intimidator. Last year I had a weird incident that overheated the battery and I believe caused the current deadness.

Pulled my intake to do parallel fuel lines and rails but opted out due to routing challenges. Did find most intake gaskets leaking and fixed the regulator screws to socket heads. Subaru needs to stop putting clamps and screws that cant be tightened without removing the intake -bullshit design. Intake removal wasnt too bad.

Very nice! Welcome to the forum. Post up an introduction and tell us more about your Spec B.

Friday evening coming home from work I heard a new rattle/clunk from underneath the car when going over small bumps at low speed. Sounds like mid to rear of the car, definitely not front end.

 

Gave a quick look underneath, and the driver's side plastic undertray was hanging down a bit because it was missing most of the pop-its on the outboard edge. I pulled the rest of the pop-its and the two central mounting bolts to drop it down enough to snake a vacuum hose in there to extract >200K miles worth of accumulated gravel, then buttoned it back up with a pop-it in every spot. Thankfully I had a crap-ton of Honda/Acura pop-its on hand that are the same size. The Hondacura ones just pull out with trim clip pliers, versus the Subaru ones that are Philips head (which I've never really cared for).

 

Still have the low speed rattle/clunk though. Further pondering has me thinking rear sway bar end links and/or bushings, which I think may still be the original >15-y.o. parts. Plus the low speed & mild bump conditions when it occurs are basically the same conditions as what would cause my front end links to rattle when they were toast.

Yesterday, but:

 

[ame=

] [/ame]

 

Wheel bearing? There isn't any play, but this also does not sound like the breaks grinding ether. Ordered the parts to replace it.

 

Also the ABS computer is now all pissed off because one of the front wheels decided to stop spinning during the testing. Need to figure out how to reset that....

Yesterday, but:

 

 

Wheel bearing? There isn't any play, but this also does not sound like the breaks grinding ether. Ordered the parts to replace it.

 

Also the ABS computer is now all pissed off because one of the front wheels decided to stop spinning during the testing. Need to figure out how to reset that....

 

Few thoughts:

1. Have you pulled the wheel to see if something is caught behind the center cap?

2. Have you checked play in the axle?

3. Something between the dust shield and the rotor?

I have a video just like that. Have two new rear bearings and axle nuts waiting for some free time.

 

I reset my ecu to get rid of the code it threw. Even though i was sure i caused it driving the car in the air, codes still scare me...

Few thoughts:

1. Have you pulled the wheel to see if something is caught behind the center cap?

2. Have you checked play in the axle?

3. Something between the dust shield and the rotor?

 

Checked 1 and 3, both were fine. Didn't directly check 2 but there isnt any rotational play between the rear wheels and when I put the stereoscope on the rear diff and didn't hear anything there other than a slight hum. Didn't check for in-out play in any way though, and with the more extreme angle at full droop any minor issues in the outer joint would lead to noise like observed.

 

The car is really loud inside now on the highway, almost like a window is open, which lead to this testing. Symptoms SEEM to match, except there is ZERO play in any of the hubs.

 

Found some NTN (OEM brand) replacment bearing on eBay for $55 each so I wont be out much if this dosen't fix it.

 

I'm hoping the front driver side isn't also bad as I have no interest in separating rusty ball joints. I wonder if there is a way to get the hub off without doing that.

When I replaced my front wheel bearings, I didn't separate the ball joints, it's not required if I remember correctly.

It took me about 45 min per side for the fronts.

Don't forget to pick up a new axle nut if you haven't yet.

Just found a YouTube video where they did it by disconnection the front strut. I've been wanting to change the helper springs on my PSS's anyway which would be easy to do at the same time, so maybe I just bite the bullet and do the front one as well. Guess the only question now is do I touch the front one that WASN'T making any noise.

Might be kind of late now but, if you drive the car on a flyover ramp or highspeed exit clover leaf type with the radio turned off you'll hear the bad bearing as the loading changes.

 

Also if you ride in the back seat while someone drives the car...you'll be surprised what you hear from back there.

Getting to that #4 coilpack is a real bastard, especially with the air pump duct routing. So many things are just a little easier with the 2005MY.. Glad I got it out of there though, rusted and separation all over the metal case. Hopefully the source of my cold misfire.

These were mine when I replaced them. The misfires were so bad it felt like I was skipping teeth on bicycle gears, was afraid I wouldn't make it to my destination.

 

 

I don't get "bling" too often for my wagon, but I did here...

 

 

The rare (for me) brand new item.

 

A Beatrush rear strut brace, one of the few that can actually fit below the carpet. So pretty, but will be hidden

 

Only took >2 months to get here from Japan.

These were mine when I replaced them. The misfires were so bad it felt like I was skipping teeth on bicycle gears, was afraid I wouldn't make it to my destination.

 

Damn those look pretty rough. I didn't have issues like you thankfully, a barely noticeable misfire at first start, but 2/4 CPs of mine were almost as cruddy looking.