Legacy gt mods

I recently picked up a pretty good FMIC for a great price that I couldn’t resist. I’m hoping to get pro-tuned soon and will be ordering some new goodies shortly. Here are my ideas:

Invidia castless uppipe

Walbro 255LPH fuel pump

Install my FMIC and everything else right before getting tuned (will be towed to the dyno)

Existing mods:

HKS exhaust

Grimmspeed DP

GFB respons BOV set on full recirculate

Cobb SF intake w/ Perrin turbo inlet

 

Overall I just want to hear anyone’s thoughts on what I have planned. Is there anything I should add to the mix? I would like to go bigger turbo and injectors/fuel pump down the line but I thought it was a good start. Thanks for the feedback.

What year car ? 07+ came with a catless up pipe.

 

AEM320 fuel pump is a better choice.

2005 LGT

 

 

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What year car ? 07+ came with a catless up pipe.

 

AEM320 fuel pump is a better choice.

 

 

2005 LGT

 

 

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What year car ? 07+ came with a catless up pipe.

 

AEM320 fuel pump is a better choice.

 

 

I chose that pump because that’s what bother tuners I talked to recommended if I’m not doing bigger injectors right now. what’s your reasoning behind the 320 vs the 255?

 

 

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You won’t need a pump to support what you have listed.

First start with a compression/leakdown test, then look at supporting mods

Make sure your car is mechanically sound before modifying it. All of the rubber in our cars is weak stuff. I've replaced just about every rubber component in my car and on Saturday am finally finishing up replacing the last of my worn components at Surgeline this weekend (rear upper control arm bushings + Whiteline roll center kit since I lowered my car when replacing the worn factory suspension).

 

These cars are very temperamental if not taken care of and subsequently modified. Might be worth mentioning that, if you're not on a VF40/46 then you may get some boost creep with those mods. Make sure to clean your MAF sensor beforehand, make sure your upstream O2 sensor is ay-OK, and MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS HEALTHY. A compression and/or leakdown test should be done before putting it on the dyno.

Subscribed to user for a month down the road when the car is a roller.

Make sure your car is mechanically sound before modifying it. All of the rubber in our cars is weak stuff. I've replaced just about every rubber component in my car and on Saturday am finally finishing up replacing the last of my worn components at Surgeline this weekend (rear upper control arm bushings + Whiteline roll center kit since I lowered my car when replacing the worn factory suspension).

 

These cars are very temperamental if not taken care of and subsequently modified. Might be worth mentioning that, if you're not on a VF40/46 then you may get some boost creep with those mods. Make sure to clean your MAF sensor beforehand, make sure your upstream O2 sensor is ay-OK, and MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS HEALTHY. A compression and/or leakdown test should be done before putting it on the dyno.

 

 

Thanks for the feedback. I’m getting tubing done at surgeline too. I’m on the vf46 and already ordered a new OEM O2 sensor. Cleaned everything in the intake a couple weeks ago. As far as the compression and leak down testing, how is the work and price for doing it yourself vs a shop?

 

 

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Thanks for the feedback. I’m getting tubing done at surgeline too. I’m on the vf46 and already ordered a new OEM O2 sensor. Cleaned everything in the intake a couple weeks ago. As far as the compression and leak down testing, how is the work and price for doing it yourself vs a shop?

 

 

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Surgeline is a good shop. I'll be there Saturday, though I probably won't see your car amidst the COVID madness. Tell Brandon I said hi (Nathan with the Legacy wagon, he'll know me).

 

It's gonna vary depending on the shop. Surgeline probably won't charge AllData hourly labor times since they've done so many Subarus they can take the spark plugs out in 20 minutes, but a regular shop will charge a lot more if they don't know the tricks to getting the plugs out quickly. You do need an air supply for a leakdown test and I wanna say that Surgeline does a compression test as part of a pre-dyno inspection, so you should be good there, but double check with Bobby/Anthony/Brandon before you embark on that, of course. Their labor rate is 105/hr, which is pretty par for an auto shop in most of SW Portland.

 

A compression test, if you're curious, is whatever the rental compression gauge at Autozone costs plus a bit of your time. Not super hard to do, but it would help to have a hand to crank your car while you do it. I'm also partial to attacking the spark plugs from underneath the car rather than from the engine bay, so you do you there. I can get them out in maybe 45 minutes when the car is on a lift.

Don’t want to scare anyone but just a note of caution that you never know what will happen on the dyno. Bought my ‘08 XT from a forum member in Ohio a few years back. Bone stock mechanicals, 57k mi. and a stack of records from the local dealership. He never missed one scheduled maintenance, oil changes, nothing. Older adult owned, it was obvious from our extensive phone chats he wasn’t beating on the car. Bought it sight unseen for a fair price, shipped it to Portland and drove it for a few months while getting my parts together. Took it to Brandon for a Cobb UP, DP,an Accessport, and a custom JMP 11 blade VF52. Spun a rod bearing on the first pull . To this day, myself and the entire Surgeline crew are mystified as to why this happened.

That's bizarre. Can't completely avoid risk with these things though, gotta always have that in mind

Don’t want to scare anyone but just a note of caution that you never know what will happen on the dyno. Bought my ‘08 XT from a forum member in Ohio a few years back. Bone stock mechanicals, 57k mi. and a stack of records from the local dealership. He never missed one scheduled maintenance, oil changes, nothing. Older adult owned, it was obvious from our extensive phone chats he wasn’t beating on the car. Bought it sight unseen for a fair price, shipped it to Portland and drove it for a few months while getting my parts together. Took it to Brandon for a Cobb UP, DP,an Accessport, and a custom JMP 11 blade VF52. Spun a rod bearing on the first pull . To this day, myself and the entire Surgeline crew are mystified as to why this happened.

 

What MAP was that first pull done with ? If the timing was off and put to much force on the piston and drove it down...with increased pressure on the crank...

Don't know the particulars of what map it was running, but they were running whatever protocol they've done thousands of times when dyno tuning from OEM to a staged set up. Can't find them at fault, it was my turn on the YNANSB merry go round I guess .

yeah tough break.

Don’t want to scare anyone but just a note of caution that you never know what will happen on the dyno. Bought my ‘08 XT from a forum member in Ohio a few years back. Bone stock mechanicals, 57k mi. and a stack of records from the local dealership. He never missed one scheduled maintenance, oil changes, nothing. Older adult owned, it was obvious from our extensive phone chats he wasn’t beating on the car. Bought it sight unseen for a fair price, shipped it to Portland and drove it for a few months while getting my parts together. Took it to Brandon for a Cobb UP, DP,an Accessport, and a custom JMP 11 blade VF52. Spun a rod bearing on the first pull . To this day, myself and the entire Surgeline crew are mystified as to why this happened.

 

Bro I have seen this happen before. even though the car was in great shape does not mean it might have been ready to go. These cars do their own thing. i always tell anyone wanting to get into the turbo subie world to have 2k set in the sock drawer just in case. I do.

A compression kit is like around 50 bucks.... if you know what your doing its cheaper to just buy a compression test kit, than pay someone a hundred bucks or so to screw in a pressure gauge. If you have an air compressor get a leakdown test as well.

A compression kit is like around 50 bucks.... if you know what your doing its cheaper to just buy a compression test kit, than pay someone a hundred bucks or so to screw in a pressure gauge. If you have an air compressor get a leakdown test as well.

 

Or keep an extra 2k on hand lol