What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

yeah I bought them about 9 months ago.. I didn't have a garage to work on my car so it sat in my pile for 9 months..

 

MASCB72084

MASCB72083

 

 

 

Those part numbers pull up nothing for me so I'm guessing they are fine. Measure them first. But as long as they fit I can't see why they'd be an issue. Oe control arms are expensive anyway.

 

 

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How's the fitment with the Raijins and those tires? Any rubbing at all?

 

Not anymore. They are a lot of work to fit. Would not recommend. That being said, they have a ton of grip

Not anymore. They are a lot of work to fit. Would not recommend. That being said, they have a ton of grip

 

Do you feel it would have been fine with 235/40s?

Where did yours rub?

 

Appreciate it, I need some wheels for my summer rubber and I already have the 235s

I love my summer wheels (raijin w/ 245/40/18 z2) but this car drives so much nicer on 17” with narrower tires. I really need to invest in a good set of lightweight 17’s with sticky rubber.

 

Me likey these for the price point. I turned away from the Raijins for these because they were available in 17". Pretty light, and good looking (aside from my slight distaste for the sparkle in the gunmetal paint).

 

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=wheelCloseUp&wheelMake=FLOW+ONE+Race+Spec&wheelModel=F2&wheelFinish=Gloss+Gunmetal+Silver+Painted

Somebody buy these already.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-throwback-jdm-rays-sti-gold-w-carbon-fiber-caps-278754.html

 

 

Or these!!

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ab-cdn-forged-bbs-optional-jdm-sti-brembo-ok-17x7-280009.html

Spark plugs on order, pulled trigger on the 15' Sti steering rack and u joint. As well as getting ready for koni yellow and ati pinks install. It was a tough decision on whether I was going to sell it, part of out, or keep pushing. Love my 4th gen that much lol

 

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Somebody buy these already.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ca-throwback-jdm-rays-sti-gold-w-carbon-fiber-caps-278754.html

 

 

Or these!!

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ab-cdn-forged-bbs-optional-jdm-sti-brembo-ok-17x7-280009.html

 

7" just ain't enough, I need 8" minimum. But I fully agree, 17's are the way to go.

7" just ain't enough, I need 8" minimum. But I fully agree, 17's are the way to go.

 

I agree with half of that statement, which is why I have these waiting to go on this spring/summer.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ab-cdn-5x100-18x8-prodrive-pff7s-speedline-51mm-clear-brembos-277730.html?t=277730&highlight=prodrive

was recently in New Zealand where I saw, on average, a legacy wagon every hour the entire trip. Including an epic parade of jdm lgt wagons thru Queenstown one night. Even the junkyard (fully enclosed warehouse) had close to 40 wagons of various vintages.

 

The twin turbo jdm MT wagon missing the intake and intercooler was heartbreaking tho. The interior had been gutted, too. Still had the motor, turbos and transmission. Sticking the set in my luggage just wasn't an option.

was recently in New Zealand where I saw, on average, a legacy wagon every hour the entire trip. Including an epic parade of jdm lgt wagons thru Queenstown one night. Even the junkyard (fully enclosed warehouse) had close to 40 wagons of various vintages.

 

The twin turbo jdm MT wagon missing the intake and intercooler was heartbreaking tho. The interior had been gutted, too. Still had the motor, turbos and transmission. Sticking the set in my luggage just wasn't an option.

Noted..When I head to New Zealand (pipe dream vacation to visit and ski) I will bring an empty suitcase or two and tons of extra cash!

Do you feel it would have been fine with 235/40s?

Where did yours rub?

 

Appreciate it, I need some wheels for my summer rubber and I already have the 235s

 

They rubbed EVERYWHERE. ROLLED/Pulled fenders and needed camberplates to make the fronts work because the tires rubbed the inside on my T1. I cannot speak on the 235/40 because I’ve never tried them.

Code what kind of drop do the T1s have? I believe my 8.5" Raijins had 235/40s and no rubbing whatsoever on Koni/H&R. That suspension has a mild drop, though. Edited January 8, 2020 by amm203

Code what suspension setup are you running? I believe my 8.5" Raijins had 235/40s and no rubbing whatsoever on Koni/H&R. That suspension has a mild drop, though.

 

18x8.5x18 Raijin

Dunlop Z2SS 245/40/18 (too tall too wide- these are wide even for 245)

RCE T1 w/ upgraded 500lb springs

All whiteline bushings that are available for 4th gen

All fenders are rolled flat and slightly pulled

 

They rubbed on the springs in front so I had to max POSITIVE the factory camber bolts to move the top of the tire outward, then used Cusco camber plates to pull everything back into the negative side of the spectrum.

 

The rear rubbed where the trim piece wraps around the body at the front of the wheel arch, I had to grind material away to eliminate all rubbing back there.

 

These tires are awesome for grip but simply too tall and wide to be conveniently fitted. The car has endless grip but feels a bit numb compared to my 17” blizzak winters. Hence my lust for lightweight 17” summers with soft rubber.

Done!

 

Also thought I'd share for those interested. Moore Power had a 5MT blast plates group buy over the holidays. I reached out after their stated deadline and they sent me an invoice and stated a few spots were still avaiable. Current price for the blast plates is $269.

 

no reply for me yet...

no reply for me yet...

 

Don't lose hope just yet, it took them 6 days to respond. I reached out on 12/30 through their generic website contact method. And they responded on Monday and sent a PayPal invoice at the same time. Maybe give them a call.

I wonder if the key is to stay with the 8" wide (+45) and only go 235/40 max.

 

Why did Subaru hate wide tires so much until recently.

I ran smaller Conti DW in 235/40 for a few years prior and had to roll my fenders. Then they rubbed again when I added the WL caster kit to the front ( it shifted the wheels SLIGHTLY forward in the wheel well).

I've always thought the ideal wheel for our cars would be 17x8.5 +48, but there's no wheel in that size. With a 235/45 I bet it would be perfect.

I've always thought the ideal wheel for our cars would be 17x8.5 +48, but there's no wheel in that size. With a 235/45 I bet it would be perfect.

 

With a spoke design that clears Brembos

18's look better IMO. Much easier to clear BBK's too.

I agree. They do look better.

Heard back from the machine shop I reached out to about an engine build. Guy on the other end of the phone was super nice and very easy to communicate with. Should hear back by the end of the week after he's had some time to go through my original e-mail and put some options and suggestions together for me to discuss further. Suddenly I'm thinking about the LGT again, which has been on the back-burner since late summer.

18x8.5x18 Raijin

Dunlop Z2SS 245/40/18 (too tall too wide- these are wide even for 245)

RCE T1 w/ upgraded 500lb springs

All whiteline bushings that are available for 4th gen

All fenders are rolled flat and slightly pulled

 

They rubbed on the springs in front so I had to max POSITIVE the factory camber bolts to move the top of the tire outward, then used Cusco camber plates to pull everything back into the negative side of the spectrum.

 

The rear rubbed where the trim piece wraps around the body at the front of the wheel arch, I had to grind material away to eliminate all rubbing back there.

 

These tires are awesome for grip but simply too tall and wide to be conveniently fitted. The car has endless grip but feels a bit numb compared to my 17” blizzak winters. Hence my lust for lightweight 17” summers with soft rubber.

 

you could just use stickery rubber. 235/40 bfg r1 on 17x8 pf01 was enough to fry my wheel bearings in a couple of laps. Driving them in the street provided epic levels of grip.

took one of "questionable" motors to school today. Needed something to tear down and rebuild. I have 10 weeks to tear it down, measure everything, assemble it and put it in fjuan's sedan. My final is based on it driving out of the shop.

 

no beer, no help, no excuses.

 

Tearing down the original race motor from the wagon at my home at same time.

 

School guarantees parts and labor if I buy from them. Given my last rebuild attempt, I see new short block in my future:)

you could just use stickery rubber. 235/40 bfg r1 on 17x8 pf01 was enough to fry my wheel bearings in a couple of laps. Driving them in the street provided epic levels of grip.

 

This makes sense now. For whatever reason I was dead-set on running a 245 cross section on my raijin. Hindsight something something.