the.burnttbean Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Well I just got the car from a marine out in Yuma, the car was from the east coast, doesn't seem to rusted out on the bottom side, But I drove the car from Lubbock, Tx to Dallas and was having some backfire. Once I got to Dallas 6 hours later got a TGV bank 1 closed code Cleared that with my AP V2, Then had had p0021 code bank 1 running rich, lots of back fire, So far Ive cleaned my MAF sensor, cleaned my throttle boot sleeve from TMIC to throttle body, found quite a bit of oil residue in there will try and post more pictures after work today. NOOBIE to the turbo EJ platforms, Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanic58 Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Just had this same issue on my '09, it was a pressure switch for the VVL solenoid on the driver's side bank. Bout $3 from Rockauto. I replaced both switches. They're installed in an upright position, the one on the driver's side bank is right in front and gets wet if you're driving in rain. Over time they corrode internally and then the switch fails to make. When this happens the PCM assumes that the VVL solenoid is not working on that bank or there's some problem with the oil circuit and defaults to a limp mode of sorts - won't allow WOT, etc. It's ridiculous. You can clear that code and drive the car conservatively and it won't return again until you call for enough power to activate the VVL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.burnttbean Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 I hammed the tmic fingers back down will add some JB Weld, on it later, Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Your TMIC is still separated in that corner. You need to take it off and use something to force that corner back into place into the core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 boost leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Change the intercooler. If you are mechanically inclined, yoyou can get back together and seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.burnttbean Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 Change the intercooler. If you are mechanically inclined, yoyou can get back together and seal.Wym? I managed to pull the fingers back over, now I'm contemplating a GS TMIC or FMIC? THOUGHTS anyone's Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 If you opt to fix that intercooler definitely boost-leak and/or smoke test when done with the repair. I chose to jb weld and build my own bulletproof kit from Home Depot parts.. has been holding up being hit with as high as 20+ psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.burnttbean Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 If you opt to fix that intercooler definitely boost-leak and/or smoke test when done with the repair. I chose to jb weld and build my own bulletproof kit from Home Depot parts.. has been holding up being hit with as high as 20+ psi.Any other mods you have? I will have to read up on those test, still a noobie to the boosted EJ platforms, I have a bugeye N/A 251 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Any other mods you have? I will have to read up on those test, still a noobie to the boosted EJ platforms, I have a bugeye N/A 251 Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Ej257, evo III 16g, ID 1050x top feed inj., parallel fueling, stock airbox and inlet. Dyno tuned via AP. 5eat so its not tuned to its potential. It was tuned for 17psi but... At WOT I usually see anywhere from 19-21 psi. I don’t experience any knock correction so I’m not too concerned as long as intercooler holds. I also don’t go WOT that often because it has plenty of power and because 5eat. I do plan to install the transgo shift kit soon to give me a little peace of mind at least. Should you decide to do the testing yourself be very careful to follow instructions (plenty of them online). Smoke test and boost leak test can push out seals. Always do both tests with the oil filler cap off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the.burnttbean Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Just had this same issue on my '09, it was a pressure switch for the VVL solenoid on the driver's side bank. Bout $3 from Rockauto. I replaced both switches. They're installed in an upright position, the one on the driver's side bank is right in front and gets wet if you're driving in rain. Over time they corrode internally and then the switch fails to make. When this happens the PCM assumes that the VVL solenoid is not working on that bank or there's some problem with the oil circuit and defaults to a limp mode of sorts - won't allow WOT, etc. It's ridiculous. You can clear that code and drive the car conservatively and it won't return again until you call for enough power to activate the VVL.Happen to have that parts code? Might try that Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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