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Broken Spark Plug...Uh Oh


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Hey guys, I had a big boo boo today. Was doing plugs and coil packs on my 2008 Spec B. I just got the car back from a full engine rebuild and we stupidly used the old plugs and coils (would have been the perfect time to do these...duh, but they weren’t presenting any issues before rebuild) and I’ve been having a bit of a misfire since the rebuild that I was trying to correct. Started on the Passenger side, got everything disassembled, got the front plug in fine. Moved to the back one, finger tightened it and then went to hit it with the torque wrench at 14 lbs per the vacation pix. It was still turning fairly easy but it was getting to the point where I was saying to myself this isn’t right and then all of a sudden I heard a crack and it started to turn freely. Don’t know how or why but it broke clean off. I should have stopped sooner but it was still turning without a ton of force, stupid mistake. Pictures below.

 

3d56dafe5cecc0b8bd665af38ea96283.jpg81c1ba4ed5c148e5ab6b1227e0886078.jpg

 

So obviously I’m here for some advice as to what to do now. In the bit of digging around I did it looks like people have had success with a number 5 screw extractor such as below but man does it make me nervous to mess up with that thing:

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Anyone out there have any input or suggestions??

Edited by NKZY
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That extractor is your best chance.

 

I was taught years ago, plugs with washers go in until you feel the washer crush and then a 1/8th to a 1/4 turn more. May be less then a 1/4.

 

Good luck.

 

May be spray some PB Blaster in there first.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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This has happened to me twice. It's really not that difficult to remove. The threads aren't in there very tight obviously because the base is gone. I have used a long flat thin piece of metal stock, stuck it down in the hole and just unscrewed it.
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Thanks for the tips everyone. I was able to get it out a lot easier than I though it would be.

 

For reference sake to anyone who finds this thread in the future, the number 5 screw extractor worked perfectly. The hardest part was finding the right combination of extensions/sockets to make it fit with the tight clearance. I used a flexible endoscope style camera I had gotten a while ago off amazon to make sure that the extractor was seated right inside the sheared plug threads and it gave great peace of mind to make sure I wasn’t doing any damage to the surrounding area. Once the extractor seated properly it came out pretty easy, I didn’t even use pb blaster etc. just took my time to make sure I was turning the extractor straight. The worry I put into this was certainly not justified with how easy it came out.

 

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This is why I never really like torque wrenches - the numbers are always designed for a very specific situation where you have fresh threads and no lubrication. A small amount of oil will make it overtight.
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I hope you used anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plug.

 

I just replaced the plugs in my wagon. The old ones came out easy, the new ones I just snugged them after the felt the crush washer flatten.

 

Don't use a torque wrench.

 

Here's the old ones. viewed from the drivers seat.

 

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Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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