Logging Wideband O2 Via The TGV Sensor Input

Uh... I feel really brilliant asking this... is that a bad thing?

 

In my opinion, yes [it is a bad thing].

 

just a matter of time before water or debris gets inside the box and shorts components. might get lucky and the in-line fuse will protect it, or you won't be lucky.

 

they are not at all sealed for dust or water, and none of the connectors are rated for it either (where as the wideband sensor to the sensor extension cable connector is appropriate for the engine bay environment). i have my "boost" sensor module apart at my desk since i fried it on accident, and there's nothing in terms of protection other than a hard shell. the shell doesn't even provide a heat sink as it looks like, at least for this sensor module.

 

i routed my wideband cable through the firewall and have the unit velcro'd to a piece of metal under my dash, behind my cubby. it's hot in there, but won't fail for water or dust issues.

 

 

 

i was hoping that was just a picture from checking to make sure it was all working, before you spent the time and effort to route it through the firewall.

Edited March 29, 2017 by Flinkly

Good reasons, especially considering I have it mounted right at the seam between the hood and fender. Hmmm maybe that wasn't the best spot.

The passenger side TGV is a 2 prong right? Is there a connector we know of that fits it?

 

there is a connector you can use, but you have to modify it. you have to break a small piece of plastic off and it won't snap shut so you have to tape the two connectors (male and female) together. But it stops you from tearing apart the sensor connector that is tied to the car.

 

I don't have the link but it's probably in this thread or another one on the same subject.

Thanks for the replies. I guess i'm a bit confused then. It sounds like you can use both sides to log something like a wideband, and a fuel pressure sender. Am I limited to either or since I have a 2 prong on the passenger side and 3 on the driver? As long as there's a signal to the ECU on both sides and it's loggable, I can get it power.

Thanks for the replies. I guess i'm a bit confused then. It sounds like you can use both sides to log something like a wideband, and a fuel pressure sender. Am I limited to either or since I have a 2 prong on the passenger side and 3 on the driver? As long as there's a signal to the ECU on both sides and it's loggable, I can get it power.

You have 3 prongs on both sides if you are 05-06 but they are on opposite ends of the housing.

Thanks for the replies. I guess i'm a bit confused then. It sounds like you can use both sides to log something like a wideband, and a fuel pressure sender. Am I limited to either or since I have a 2 prong on the passenger side and 3 on the driver? As long as there's a signal to the ECU on both sides and it's loggable, I can get it power.

 

You wire up your WB sensor to the cable that would plug INTO the TGV motor. You don't actually wire it up to the TGV motor, attached to the engine.

Today I purchased what I think is a plug and play solution to the tgv female connector for a clean install. I believe turkeylord discovered this a while ago. I will report back once this arrives and whether it actually fits.

 

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/2107

Link above.

 

The passenger side TGV is a 2 prong right? Is there a connector we know of that fits it?

You have 3 prongs on both sides if you are 05-06 but they are on opposite ends of the housing.

This. TGVs are rotated 180° relative to each other. You want the sensor plug, not the motor plug.

Ohhh! That makes so much more sense. Thanks guys!

 

now I feel dumb, but this is why you ask questions.

 

Okay another question then.

 

Since the 2 prong is for power, can't we pull power from this?

 

Ground, signal, and power in one plug, or is this what we've been doing....

Edited March 30, 2017 by freaksavior

Any harm in cutting the connector that fits like butter, AND clicks in, off of the TGV sensor itself?

 

Surprised no-one has mentioned this... I mean, once the tgvs are deleted, why would you ever UN delete them? My motors, sensors, and rods are collecting dust in the garage anyhow...

 

Of course going to the ecu, once I find the right wire, is probably easier, and would make that a moot point anyhow

Edited March 31, 2017 by oODanKNesSOo

Ohhh! That makes so much more sense. Thanks guys!

 

now I feel dumb, but this is why you ask questions.

 

Okay another question then.

 

Since the 2 prong is for power, can't we pull power from this?

 

Ground, signal, and power in one plug, or is this what we've been doing....

I'm not certain where that power comes from, or if it's modulated by the ECU to control the motor. You could probably verify by digging through the FSM, but personally I would just pull from a known good fused +12.

Roger that. I think I have everything I need to get this done then. I just ordered two plugs for this and some tgv deletes with top feed rails.

 

Thanks for the info everyone, very much appreciated.

So diagnostics show

 

CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECM AND TUMBLE GENERATOR VALVE ACTUATOR CONNECTOR.

1) TurntheignitionswitchtoOFF.

2) Disconnecttheconnectorfromtumblegen- erator valve connector.

3) Measurethevoltagebetweentumblegen- erator valve actuator and chassis ground.

Connector & terminal

(E65) No. 1 (+) — Chassis ground (): (E65) No. 2 (+) — Chassis ground ():

Is the voltage less than 5 V?

 

So I'm guessing these should not be pushing more than 5v.

 

For the LC2, the yellow OR brown wire can be connected to the tgv for signal input? Just want to confirm. That's what it sounds like at least.

 

Wiring – The LC-2’s wiring is very straight forward. All that is needed for basic installation is power (red) and ground (black). The two configurable analog output wires (one yellow and one brown) can be used to feed external Standalone ECUs, 3rd party data loggers, and AFR display gauges.

 

Serial IN & OUT Connectors – The LC-2’s serial connectors are utilized when needed to program analog output settings, data log via the Logworks software with a Windows PC, or to daisy chain with other Innovate Motorsports’ devices.

Edited April 3, 2017 by freaksavior

Hope I'm not overstepping my bounds here, but just wanted to mention that BtSsm app can now log an LC2 via it's serial out line. LC2 serial out -> serial to USB converter -> OTG adapter -> android phone or tablet.

 

</commercial>

Hope I'm not overstepping my bounds here, but just wanted to mention that BtSsm app can now log an LC2 via it's serial out line. LC2 serial out -> serial to USB converter -> OTG adapter -> android phone or tablet.

 

</commercial>

 

Yup, I saw that and I was super excited to see it added. Thanks for all your hard work on that app. Totally worth the purchase price.

 

Sadly, I ran out of usb ports on my hub but I do have another I can add on.

 

Any reason reason to use the usb option other than convenience? Driver side is getting a fuel pressure sender regardless through the tgv.

Edited April 3, 2017 by freaksavior

Thanks. It was added just as another way to get the data. Some models / some markets don't have TGV's, so they can't use them as inputs - this offers another way to do it.

Any harm in cutting the connector that fits like butter, AND clicks in, off of the TGV sensor itself?

 

Surprised no-one has mentioned this... I mean, once the tgvs are deleted, why would you ever UN delete them? My motors, sensors, and rods are collecting dust in the garage anyhow...

 

Of course going to the ecu, once I find the right wire, is probably easier, and would make that a moot point anyhow

 

That might work, but I haven't looked at the sensor very closely.

 

I kept my TGV sensor as-is because it's identical to the throttle position sensor... so it's a spare part now.

What value do I add to the AP for logging, having tapped into the passenger side TGV?

I believe it will be called "TGV Volt Right (V)". Can anyone back that up or correct?

I'll try that, thanks boss

Just got around to installing two PLX sensor boxes, EGT, and Wideband AFR. I used the daisy chain setup to install 2 DM-6 gauges in addition to sending the analog 0-5v analog outputs of th PLC boxes directly into the Subaru ECU via the left and right Tumbler angle inputs. I wanted to keep the engine bay clean so I installed the sensor boxes right next to the cars ECU. I cut and repinned the connectors for the sensor boxes so i could use an existing grommet to get the wires inside. On the 2005 Turbo legacy I located the input pins as Connector C135, pins C26 and C27.

 

I even tapped the ECU switched power since these sensors don't use very much power. The power came from Connector B136, Pin B4 for ground (Black with white stripe). Switched +12 volts on Pin B5 (Yellow with light Blue stripe) located right next to the ground. The interesting thing about this is, the gauges work as long as the ECU is on, so they remain on for a few seconds after the vehicle is off due to the timed delay.

 

In romraider I added a few formula's. Some from this thread and one taken directly from the manuals that came with the gauges. For EGT I did a little math to arrive at the correct formula and the numbers seem to match up perfectly with the DM-6 gauges. The "C2" is the formula for the stock EGT sensor that I threw in just to take a peak at. But the PLX sensors seem to be scaled from 0 to 1500C with the 0-5v swing. More testing when I do some good data logging.

 

               <parameter id="P39" name="Tumble Valve Position Sensor Right" desc="P39" ecubyteindex="12" ecubit="0" target="1">
                   <address>0x000033</address>
                   <conversions>
                       <conversion units="C" expr="x/50*294.1176" format="0" />
		<conversion units="F" expr="32+9*(x+40)" format="0" gauge_min="0" gauge_max="2000" gauge_step="200" />
                       <conversion units="C2" expr="(x+40)*5" format="0" gauge_min="0" gauge_max="1000" gauge_step="100" />
                   </conversions>
               </parameter>
               <parameter id="P40" name="Tumble Valve Position Sensor Left" desc="P40" ecubyteindex="13" ecubit="7" target="1">
                   <address>0x000034</address>
                   <conversions>
		<conversion units="AFR" expr="x/50*2+10" format="0.00" />
                   </conversions>
               </parameter>

 

I wanted the EGT sensor before the turbo and didn't feel like taking off the turbo and up-pipe, so I drilled and tapped the stock Subaru exhaust manifold right near the stock AFR sensor. Just used a grinder to make a flat surface on it, turned on the engine and drilled it out with a bunch of sticky tapping oil to make sure the shavings blew out at me rather than go through the turbo.

 

Other things of note, I also tapped the ECU wires for the tachometer/injector to send to my remote start alarm setup. I even tapped the neutral safety switch which the manual transmissions provide on these Subaru's, however I had to make a transistorized circuit to correct the neutral safety switch values so that the alarm system knows for sure if the car is in gear or is in neutral before the remote start will activate. And finally, the E-brake wire is a secondary back-up for the remote start signal to make doubly sure the remote start will not active if the vehicle is in gear or if the E-brake is not set.

 

The last image is the tumbler valve input which is EGT in Celsius. It's already greatly helping dial in the tune.

Edited April 24, 2018 by VrpDCNzZfIOS

↑ Wow, nice work.

Good lawwwdy how much do you charge an hour! Killer job

 

 

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Is there any reason why the TGV input would be more preferable then the rear 02 input? Would I not be able to get my power and ground straight from the rear 02 input? In my head it seems the rear 02 would be easier to plug right into or splice right into then finding different sources for ground and power?

 

Sorry to bump and old thread.

Is there any reason why the TGV input would be more preferable then the rear 02 input? Would I not be able to get my power and ground straight from the rear 02 input? In my head it seems the rear 02 would be easier to plug right into or splice right into then finding different sources for ground and power?

 

Sorry to bump and old thread.

 

So you can keep your rear O2 sensor to help with fueling corrections?