Noname 08 OBXT Rebuild Thread

Whoa boy, I went through this exact thing after I got my car put together. Part of it was trans dipstick smacking the intercooler, part of it ended up being the fact that I left one of the support brackets off the up-pipe. Only caught the second one when I installed a turbo heat shield and it started resonating in the same ranges I was seeing knock.

 

My trans sounds like it has rocks in it and I'm running it into the ground for science, and that appears to get picked up now and again.

Engine grounds could likely use attention. Haven't double checked the air box. Dog bone didn't shift when I yanked on it and is a new group n mount. I thought about the dog bone.

 

I crawled under it while it was running and didn't hear anything other than valve train noise.

 

I remember you having trouble awful waffle. I think I got both the brackets on the turbo up to head. Unless you mean one of the heat shield brackets was clattering. That's why I'm tempted to strip them all of lol.

 

Next weekend I'll finally get to put some time into it. Lgt front calipers, new front brake lines, bulletproof the intercooler, black out the rear chrome, etc.

 

 

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Exactly which load range and rpm do you see that amount of FLKC?

He has it set so the range is 1.25-1.99 g/Rev at 4400-5600.

 

Dave said that it seemed like false knock because it was consistent based on any changes he made and didn't line up with what the tune is set up for. It also did it with both knock sensors.

 

He brought up that it could be real knock, but if so it was caused by engine wear. As the block and exhaust valves and guides only have 10k miles on them and the heads were rebuilt. I hope it's not wear.

 

 

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On the last revision he said he tuned it out. But my flkc still showed a learned knock of 1.4 in the same range after the pulls. Haven't heard back from him since last night when I sent him the logs.

 

Mostly I just know it's not his job to find mechanical wear or false knock issues so I want to make sure that I'm doing my diligence on my end as well.

 

 

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I'd cut IAM, add some fuel, and see if the FLKC goes away. If not, probably false.

I'd cut IAM, add some fuel, and see if the FLKC goes away. If not, probably false.

 

 

I tried learning the tuning side but quickly decided I'd just leave that up to the pros. I've done 3 revisions since the start of this without any real improvement (from what I can tell) and Dave wants me to dig in again.

 

He thinks the knock sensor is OK based on the last logs so I think I'm going to strip off anything that could be rattling and just see if it changes. If it does, I'll add stuff back until I find the issue, or maybe just leave them off. Plenty of people seem to run fine with zero heat shields.

 

 

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On a different note, it looks like I'll be moving to Michigan next year and so I think I'm going to be lowering the outback. Haven't decided what route to go for that yet.

 

 

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Hey, where in Michigan? You're welcome to come commisserate/use the lift if you end up near Detroit.

It would be cool to have someone else around in the community. Every time I see an lgt I'm just like who are you? How have you not blown your block and needed help?

 

My buddy is moving to Ypsilanti in August. His sister lives there. Myself and another friend are going to follow sometime between winter to April and we'll live wherever we can afford and hopefully some place I can get work nearby ish.

 

We are hoping to get a bit nearer to racing, Karting, stage rally, and escape the super white conservative Christian culture of utah.

 

He's lived there in the past and says you don't really need the ground clearance you'd want in moab so I'm thinking time to drop it on some coil overs

 

 

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Hey, where in Michigan? You're welcome to come commisserate/use the lift if you end up near Detroit.

 

Just remember... everyone in Michigan own's a lift. You're not cool if you don't have a lift.

Just remember... everyone in Michigan own's a lift. You're not cool if you don't have a lift.

 

Darn tootin. Though to be fair, I felt a lot cooler when I got to say I worked on my car in a parking lot behind a defunct Rite-Aid. Property owner even came by and gave me his blessing, almost like a sponsorship.

Edited June 25, 2020 by awfulwaffle

Haha sponsored by rite aid. I have this over the top love of working with my hands and doing things the hard way but jeez I'm tired of laying in fluids.

 

Friend and I are talking about starting up a screen printing business when we get there and I'm hoping to convince him to get a space big enough to also fit cars in for working.

 

 

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Edited June 25, 2020 by Nonamedude

Darn tootin. Though to be fair, I felt a lot cooler when I got to say I worked on my car in a parking lot behind a defunct Rite-Aid. Property owner even came by and gave me his blessing, almost like a sponsorship.

 

 

 

 

Got some stuff done this weekend. Reman lgt calipers painted and on the front with new brake lines. Ate type 200 fluid flush and flushed the clutch as well. Wanted to do the clutch damper delete but couldn't find the channel locks and it was getting too late to pull the master cylinder.

 

 

Had bought used calipers but decided I didn't want to be bothered with it. So everything came from autozone and oem lines from the dealer.

 

Painting was easy off the car. Just hit the visible spots. If I was to do it again, I'd use a better brush and do 3 coats. They'd also look a lot better behind aftermarket wheels. Maybe one day.

 

Also pulled all the heat shields so hopefully no more knock. I could hear a rattle in just the right conditions before and wasn't hearing anything tonight. Will have to log tomorrow and hopefully that's sorted.

 

 

 

In other car news, next weekend will be likely doing a botch job transmission resurrection on the e30. We lost 4th gear. So going to try to get all the metal out and just run it without 4th.

 

 

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What rotor and pad combo did you choose?

What rotor and pad combo did you choose?

 

 

Duralast gold, so I never pay for brake parts again lol.

 

It's never been anything but street driven. If I were to start regularly tracking it, I'd get track day pads and rotors.

 

 

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Check. Have not been happy with the Raybestos pads and rotors after the GT spec swap. I've been chasing some wheel shake around 70+ mph and it's starting to piss me off.

Yea I've never had issues with duralast stuff on various vehicles over the years. And the nice thing is if you do. Just go swap them.

 

Are you sure it's brake pads though? Unless your rotor is hitting the pads because it's not stable I wouldn't think that's the case. I'm assuming you've swapped your wheels around already.

 

 

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So I'm hopefully doing the steering rack in the next few weeks. Looks like I need whiteline ksr207 for bushings (it needs new ones anyway considering the mileage and leakage).

 

Trying to figure out what else I need to do at the same time. I know it's buried somewhere in this thread about a pump oring I should replace. What about a full rebuild of the pump? Soft lines? Just swap the rack and not worry about the rest?

 

 

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I just swapped the rack w/ Whiteline bushings and nothing else. High pressure lines are a good idea if they're looking ratty, but mine looked fine so I just left them alone. Pump o-ring I think is the one on the fitting that mounts to the top of the pump - is yours leaking at all?

I just swapped the rack w/ Whiteline bushings and nothing else. High pressure lines are a good idea if they're looking ratty, but mine looked fine so I just left them alone. Pump o-ring I think is the one on the fitting that mounts to the top of the pump - is yours leaking at all?

 

 

Yea it's a bit wet but not really bad. Light enough to actually even be something I spilled at some other point. I just figure it was good to do it anyway while everything was drained. Planning to leave the lines alone for now though.

 

 

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Well time table has been moved up and I'll be moving to Michigan in September. That means the money from my totaled civic will go to shipping the e30 instead of coil overs. Kinda sad but oh well.

 

That also means I'll need a retune I suppose (4400ft to 700ft) and hopefully won't break anything as I plan to tow a trailer from utah there.

 

Still planning to get the steering rack in, aluminum rear upper lateral arms, rear camber bushings, and diff inserts in before that.

 

Also any of yall in that area have recommendations of where to avoid for living on the west side of the city all the way to Ann Arbor or got a job connection let me know. We don't have a place to live and I'll be jobless.

 

 

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Stay west of Plymouth and you should be fine. Ypsilanti is nice, but expensive. Lots of auto industry jobs around here.

Sweet. My friends sister keeps saying Ypsilanti is affordable but I think her view might be a bit skewed cuz the places I'm seeing are small and pricey.

 

Thinking about auto industry actually. I used to be an adjuster so thought maybe that. Don't think my body can handle being a mechanic. Might also be starting a screen printing business with a friend after we get there.

 

 

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