What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Might be looking at a '16 STi steering rack here soon.

 

And updated my avatar, not summer.

Here's one for ya guys. Replaced my stock FPR with a Radium one, went to start the car, ECU appears to be bricked. 'ER HC' displayed in odo, which apparently means a high speed Canbus comms error. No ability to communicate with the ECU in any manner via Tactrix or BtSSM.

 

Only electronic component touched during the entire process was my fuel pressure sensor, which is wired into the driver side TGV connector. Unplugged and plugged back in.

 

WHAT?

Edited February 6, 2020 by awfulwaffle

Unplug the sensor and try again? Maybe a short from wiring or something.

I thought Er HC is just telling you that you have a code.

 

There's instructions here on how to use the odometer reset button to display your codes on the dash.

 

 

edit: Maybe I'm recalling when you see ErHC on the dash when the green connectors in the passenger footwell are plugged in for flashing the ECU

Edited February 6, 2020 by snow05gtRI

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/er-hc-message-206730.html?t=206730&highlight=%22ErHC%22

 

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/er-hc-code-odometer-180116.html

Er HC, according to the Googles at least, is a Canbus communications error. I did try to reseat (and completely unplug) the connector to no avail. Also no effect when disconnecting battery for a while.

 

The fact that I can't get any response from the ECU makes me think that something's awry there. Fans don't cycle when connecting the test mode jumpers either.

 

Looks like electrical troubleshootin' time. Good thing I sold the ECU from my parts car -.-

Er HC, according to the Googles at least, is a Canbus communications error. I did try to reseat (and completely unplug) the connector to no avail. Also no effect when disconnecting battery for a while.

 

The fact that I can't get any response from the ECU makes me think that something's awry there. Fans don't cycle when connecting the test mode jumpers either.

 

Looks like electrical troubleshootin' time. Good thing I sold the ECU from my parts car -.-

 

I have an ECU from an '05 Legacy and an '05 Outback if you need one.

Granted, you would need the immobilizer chip flashed; which I might be able to do if I can find all the parts again.

I have an ECU from an '05 Legacy and an '05 Outback if you need one.

Granted, you would need the immobilizer chip flashed; which I might be able to do if I can find all the parts again.

 

Thanks, I'll go through some diagnostics tomorrow to see if I can't rule out a short on the 5V side of things, or something else silly. Will post up if I have to conclude it's the ECU.

 

That 05 Legacy ECU isn't the one ya bought from me, is it?

I should have ECU from Mike's (HAMMERDOWN) LGT somewhere. 05 sedan if that makes any difference.

Just got my base map from cryotuning and went and did a 20 minute drive log. Man that is a lot of lines of data. I scrolled through it all and sent it off with a few questions. Happy it's finally started and interested to see what dave says. Maybe by the end of this I'll actually be able to read a log.

Thanks, I'll go through some diagnostics tomorrow to see if I can't rule out a short on the 5V side of things, or something else silly. Will post up if I have to conclude it's the ECU.

 

That 05 Legacy ECU isn't the one ya bought from me, is it?

 

Close, I'm actually running the ECU I bought from you.

The 05 Legacy is my original, and the 05 OB was from my TX donor car.

Just got my base map from cryotuning and went and did a 20 minute drive log. Man that is a lot of lines of data. I scrolled through it all and sent it off with a few questions. Happy it's finally started and interested to see what dave says. Maybe by the end of this I'll actually be able to read a log.

 

Have you seen this "support site" https://www.cobbtuning.com/support/

 

You may be able to learn a lot from there. Or here,

 

 

https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/172752967/Subaru+Datalog+Guide

State inspection and emissions today for the specB. Passed no problem. The shop owner's a friend and he asked me to let him know when I'm ready to sell it, said he's never driven one and loved it.

 

That makes 3 buyers for it now, behind my brother and the guy who sold it to me.

New ECU in hand, and found out that 3/5 Detroit area dealers claim it's impossible to reflash the immobilizer, and the other 2 won't do it for a couple of weeks.

 

Assuming that troubleshooting finds no bad fuses/grounds, time to decide whether I'm confident enough replacing an SMD by hand, or wait for an FTDI breakout board to come in as used in Infosecdad's thread on the subject.

 

I just wanna drive my car and not worry about stuff.

Edited February 6, 2020 by awfulwaffle

State inspection and emissions today for the specB. Passed no problem. The shop owner's a friend and he asked me to let him know when I'm ready to sell it, said he's never driven one and loved it.

 

That makes 3 buyers for it now, behind my brother and the guy who sold it to me.

 

Lol. I have two mechanics that have asked to buy mine recently.

I am first in line to buy Dave's LGT when he's done with all the mods

New ECU in hand, and found out that 3/5 Detroit area dealers claim it's impossible to reflash the immobilizer, and the other 2 won't do it for a couple of weeks.

 

Assuming that troubleshooting finds no bad fuses/grounds, time to decide whether I'm confident enough replacing an SMD by hand, or wait for an FTDI breakout board to come in as used in Infosecdad's thread on the subject.

 

I just wanna drive my car and not worry about stuff.

 

Yeah, of the dealers I called; one claimed it couldn't be done and the other wanted something like $500 and couldn't get me in for 5-6 wks, and they said they couldn't promise that it would work in the end and it was my risk to take.

 

Hence my motivation for figuring out how to do it.

I can totally relate to just wanting to enjoy driving...

I am first in line to buy Dave's LGT when he's done with all the mods

 

*clutches pearls* NEVER! I'm getting buried in that thing.

 

In other news, I had some developments today. The ebay seller sent me the incorrect pair of facelift headlights. They're very similar but there is some glaring differences to what I received from the listing pictures once you look closely. Curious to see how this is going to play out. Luckily paid through paypal.

 

Ordered the Radium fuel rails, fueling line/plumbing kit and TGV delete housings just for consistency. I'll be posting my BNIB IAG TGV deletes and Aeromotive A1000 fpr for sale shortly since their fueling kit comes with an regulator.

 

Finally, the S402 fenders arrived today and damn are these babies wide. Interestingly I was always under the impression that the fender vents were functional and never really looked into it but they're not, so I'll have a dremel project one of these weekends.

Yep, looking an awful lot like the ECU cooked. Every fuse was good, as was every ground I checked. Popped in my replacement ECU, and no more CANbus error. Original ECU has a bunch of crap sharpied on it too (including the car's VIN), so it's probably a replacement.

 

FTDI breakout and all leads on order, let's see if I can't duplicate Infosecdad's solution. Everything should be here tomorrow.

How did you fry the ecu changing the fpr?

 

 

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*clutches pearls* NEVER! I'm getting buried in that thing.

 

 

I'm still here if you change your mind

 

 

 

Finally, the S402 fenders arrived today and damn are these babies wide. Interestingly I was always under the impression that the fender vents were functional and never really looked into it but they're not, so I'll have a dremel project one of these weekends.

 

 

Interesting. I am not sure what they would be venting based on location. Do you want to make them functional and vent heat out from engine bay?

Yep, looking an awful lot like the ECU cooked. Every fuse was good, as was every ground I checked. Popped in my replacement ECU, and no more CANbus error. Original ECU has a bunch of crap sharpied on it too (including the car's VIN), so it's probably a replacement.

 

FTDI breakout and all leads on order, let's see if I can't duplicate Infosecdad's solution. Everything should be here tomorrow.

 

 

Damn. That's too easy, did you disconnect the battery when connecting the FPR?

I am not doing any JDM front end swaps, but was going through my parts bin and found BNIB Diode Dynamics flasher relay that I bought for JDM headlights project and forgot about. Installed it and it's working. Getting used to tapping the turn signal for quick lane changes. The 20 second light stay on alarm on/off is also growing on me.

I am not doing any JDM front end swaps, but was going through my parts bin and found BNIB Diode Dynamics flasher relay that I bought for JDM headlights project and forgot about. Installed it and it's working. Getting used to tapping the turn signal for quick lane changes. The 20 second light stay on alarm on/off is also growing on me.

 

 

 

I love tap turn. I got mad when my buddies ford transit had it and I didn't. Looked around and bought that one and installed it I think last week. Still getting used to it as well. I think I'm going to turn it to three blinks.

 

One thing I found is if you tap it and change your mind, you can't seem to cancel it.

 

 

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Interesting. I am not sure what they would be venting based on location. Do you want to make them functional and vent heat out from engine bay?

 

 

Maybe it could do brake ducting in from the fog lamp area and ducting from the wheel well out the fender for brake cooling?

 

On the passenger side maybe some sort of steering fluid cooler?

 

I keep debating on mounting lights in my upper or lower grille and I wonder how much air we really pull in. Might have to do the yarn test when it's warmer and I can find a helper.

 

 

 

 

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