What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Can confirm - same exact spot as Enlight and Max. Passenger side where the quarter-panel meets the body above the wheel I have some small paint bubbling. Nothing on the driver/gas door side, though. This was repaired last spring and even with no winter driving last year it's starting to bubble again. Frustrating. The guy who looked at my car last year to fix the rust instantly commented on the rubber trim piece in the wheel well and how it notoriously traps dirt and water on Subarus, causing rust issues.

Upon a closer look it looks like it's not just the dirt getting trapped under rubber trim and plastic liners, but the sheet metal looks like it has multiple layers itself. The moisture seems to get in between the layers. I came upon this because I was feeling the inside of the fender well but couldn't actually feel any rust. The paint surface was smooth and intact. The rust is coming from inside the sheet metal. In the future I'm going to try to Fluid Film into the metal from where the layers are visible. I'll see if I can get a picture of this.

I was mistaken - it is the gas door side with bubbling. Opposite side is clean

Yup, worse on the salty side of the road/car...

I was surprised my gas tank rusted out. I had both the tank and filler neck replaced recently. The body on my car is pretty clean but the tank was rusting out at the seams and also where the hoses connect, giving me an EVAP cel. The filler neck had a couple of rust spots starting as well.

My wagons gas tank and fill pipe were replaced two years ago, same issue rust.

The passenger side of my wagon has rust inside the gas door that I haven't investigated and under the inside of the front door. Neither spots are visible and the right rear arch actually looks great.

My driver's side rear arch has a 1.5" bubble that's been repaired once already in the same place, needs a replacement arch put in. The rest of the driver's side looks pretty great.

Not bad at all for the age, miles (191k) and salt belt. I've cleaned and treated all the spots a couple times over the years, and it's moving slowly.

I had rust bubbling paint inside the gas door at the bottom on the opening. Scraped rust out and sprayed with corrosion inhibitor I use on bottom of rockers. Gives thin film that stands up to a year of sanding. Hopefully will last longer in this spot.

Nothing major done to the car. Put it in the garage tonight and taking interior trim off to get to sunroof to fix the leak before weather turns awful.

On other note looks like motherboard on HP Z820 workstation I built for home work just died. Great, they are mid-200 used and it will be a bitch to swap 2 CPUs and 128Gb of ram plus other boards.

Sometimes you just have to say "puck it" and keep pushing through.

I was surprised my gas tank rusted out. I had both the tank and filler neck replaced recently. The body on my car is pretty clean but the tank was rusting out at the seams and also where the hoses connect, giving me an EVAP cel. The filler neck had a couple of rust spots starting as well.

exactly the same for me !

I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon.

 

Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok.

 

In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine.

 

Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming

 

In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend.

that gone be more than a flare !

Just now installed the Koyorad and burped the coolant. Slightly tight fit getting them in and out with the RacerX FMIC piping. But now I can finally can get the alignment tomorrow with the new coilovers and Whiteline KTA124 arms on. Probably going for -2.5 front and rear for camber and 0 toe front and rear.

Update: passenger side fan is hitting the fmic piping. Not sure how to go about this. Gonna try to loosen and move the pipes around tomorrow.

Changed the oil/oil filter, and topped off the power steering fluid.

SC

Gave mine its third timing belt this weekend (now at 219K and change) along with the associated idlers, water pump, t-stat, rad hoses, new coolant, etc.

Went deeper into it and did the cam seals too this time, since I hadn't done them the last time I changed the belt over 100K miles ago. They were actually not leaking, but I figured they might not make it to over 300K. The cam seals probably doubled the amount of wrenching time this weekend. Not having the cam SSTs, I used the belt wrap method to hold them while loosening/torquing the sprocket bolts. A bit fiddly but it worked, and with a proper 1/2" drive 10mm hex bit there were no issues with damaged bolts.

And I finally removed the banjo bolt filter in the driver's side AVCS line! It was pretty clean actually, a few teeny bits of debris but nowhere close to any amount that would impair oil flow.

New V-belts too, well one of them (for now). I will report that the Gates versions of these belts, which I grabbed in a rockauto order because the price was right, are probably best avoided. I did get the 4-rib belt for the A/C on okay so I'll run that one, but the 5-rib belt for the alt & P/S was riDONKulously tight, impossible to mount even with the alt at full loose while using various objects in attempts to lever the belt over the pulleys. So this should just reinforce what most of us already know... OE Mitsuboshi is the way to go. Had to reinstall the used belt to get to work today, and I'll swap a new OE belt from the stealership this evening.

Slapped on new pads and rotors Sat.

Pads had decent life left but I'm certainly glad I replaced them.

The backs were falling apart.

Gave mine its third timing belt this weekend (now at 219K and change) along with the associated idlers, water pump, t-stat, rad hoses, new coolant, etc.

 

Went deeper into it and did the cam seals too this time, since I hadn't done them the last time I changed the belt over 100K miles ago. They were actually not leaking, but I figured they might not make it to over 300K. The cam seals probably doubled the amount of wrenching time this weekend. Not having the cam SSTs, I used the belt wrap method to hold them while loosening/torquing the sprocket bolts. A bit fiddly but it worked, and with a proper 1/2" drive 10mm hex bit there were no issues with damaged bolts.

And I finally removed the banjo bolt filter in the driver's side AVCS line! It was pretty clean actually, a few teeny bits of debris but nowhere close to any amount that would impair oil flow.

 

New V-belts too, well one of them (for now). I will report that the Gates versions of these belts, which I grabbed in a rockauto order because the price was right, are probably best avoided. I did get the 4-rib belt for the A/C on okay so I'll run that one, but the 5-rib belt for the alt & P/S was riDONKulously tight, impossible to mount even with the alt at full loose while using various objects in attempts to lever the belt over the pulleys. So this should just reinforce what most of us already know... OE Mitsuboshi is the way to go. Had to reinstall the used belt to get to work today, and I'll swap a new OE belt from the stealership this evening.

Just saying, the Drive belts from the local auto parts work great. I put Dayco drive belts on and I seen to recall a Dayco timing belt kit back in 2008 when I did the first timing belt.

If you have a issue when buying local, you can get a quick replacement.

Slapped on new pads and rotors Sat.

 

Pads had decent life left but I'm certainly glad I replaced them.

 

The backs were falling apart.

 

Some of us might have reinstalled pads that looked exactly like that when searching for a grinding noise from their brakes <.< >.>

yesterday fixed leak in the sunroof. Driver side front drain got clogged and clearing it resolved the issue. Drain hoses were all good on all 4 corners, good amount of compressed air in all drain hoses and holes should do it for now.

Hosed the car with water for about 10 minutes, all dry inside.

Really worth clearing the draining track though, prevention would work the best. I took some pics, will try to do a walk-through for this.

I'll be posting all of my Subaru/LGT cars and parts up for sale. If you are on "low" on fb, some stuff is listed.

Both wagons, both sedans, engines, short blocks, heads, interior bits, etc.

Would like to sell the 2 wagons as complete sets. The black wagon runs very well. The race wagon still needs a few things (fuel lines need replacing).

It is difficult for me to "thank" that post.

GLWYS and future endeavors.

Some of us might have reinstalled pads that looked exactly like that when searching for a grinding noise from their brakes

I would have grabbed a $20 pair of Centric pads before I put these back on.

The backs were crumbling and rusty chunks were falling off everywhere.

I do think they were decent and aggressive pads at one point, but no telling how many years they had been on the car.

Sunday, I really went ham putting my car back to stock for sale

I pulled out all my coilovers and put back stock suspension, pulled out my subwoofer and wiring, I'm on the verge of pulling the double din, but for some reason lost the hazard button on the P201 oem radio/climate I have, so if anyone has one lying around PM me!

Next is to remove the side skirts and put back the oem ones, full exhaust is already off now.

Positive news is my tgv's came back from my friends shop for the new engine for the spec b, it was a free weld of the holes from some guy so I just need to fill the tiny spots and we are good to go to drop it in the new car

I'll be posting all of my Subaru/LGT cars and parts up for sale. If you are on "low" on fb, some stuff is listed.

Both wagons, both sedans, engines, short blocks, heads, interior bits, etc.

Would like to sell the 2 wagons as complete sets. The black wagon runs very well. The race wagon still needs a few things (fuel lines need replacing).

Everything ok? Sorry to see those vehicles leave your hands.

Everything ok? Sorry to see those vehicles leave your hands.

Not really. I was in a single car accident recently which has ended my racing aspirations. I'm truly lucky to have walked away with almost zero injuries. However the almost part is the sucky part. My concussion count equals a typical NFL player's count.

Selling it all and moving on. I'll finish my automotive technician degree and machining/fabrication training. After that, idk.

Not really. I was in a single car accident recently which has ended my racing aspirations. I'm truly lucky to have walked away with almost zero injuries. However the almost part is the sucky part. My concussion count equals a typical NFL player's count.

 

Selling it all and moving on. I'll finish my automotive technician degree and machining/fabrication training. After that, idk.

I didn't think thanking this post was appropriate so instead I made this post. Sorry to hear of your loss but I'm glad you have the wisdom to recognize when it's time to walk away. I'm sure your family appreciates it as well. Hopefully we'll still get your input here in the forum from time to time.