What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I believe that is the case between the '05-'06 and '07+ MYs.

 

Today, I learned what regret feels like. Now I'm ready for your boat, awfulwaffle Compression test on cyl 1 and 3 returned 120psi, cyl 2 and 4 was 60 and 65psi

 

I suppose I should re-check the timing, but I doubt I screwed that up. Also worth checking the OCVs I guess?

 

 

Ugh. Feel for you. Strange though that both cylinders on pass side are reading low. Check the timing for sure.

I'm a dumb dumb - realized today that it was a difference in oil pump casting, as that's where the mounting point is. I used the STI P/N pump.

 

Got it in the car, primed and started today. Massive vacuum leak somewhere that I need to track down. But, all the fluids stayed where they should and I had good oil pressure. It's getting there.

 

 

That's great! Good to know people are installing RA SBs without any issues.

Holy crap, brake pads have gotten expensive since I’ve shopped for them last. I had no idea that I’d be spending $2-300 for a set of good street pads.

 

My rears started squealing last week. They are Porterfeld RS-4 that are about six years old with ~ 16k mi. on them. I have StopTech Street on the front and they are fine but also about four years old with ~9k on them.

 

Looks like I’m going with HPS 5.0 this time just to try something new.

I noticed my 08LGT never stopped the same as my 09LGT so I ordered new brake hardware for both axles along with Motul fluid. Install went smooth and I found out why my 08 was lacking where my 09 wasn't, the PO used 2.5i rotors in the rear with LGT rear pads. The LGT pads were older than the rotors, the 2.5i rotor wore down 2/3rds of the pad to about 3/16". The caliper piston was extended about double what it normally looks like.

 

 

 

New brakes around (All Centric + Centric Pads) and that nice firm braking feeling is back.

 

 

 

I also have a rear wheel bearing starting to hum above 60MPH, I wish there was a useful hub puller that isn't a slide hammer+torch+PB Blaster+drfit+2lb hammer+anger

Got my CNT downpipe, CNT midpipe adapter and PTP turbo blanket installed yesterday. I had to cut off the divider plate for the CNT downpipe, smacking against the wastegate, but easy install otherwise and fitment is excellent. Test map from Cryotune is in my email. Hopefully begin that process soon, super busy week though.

 

Got a look at the hot side of my JmP custom turbo with about 5k miles on it and it looks basically brand new. Spins like a top, but rock steady.

 

 

I also have a rear wheel bearing starting to hum above 60MPH, I wish there was a useful hub puller that isn't a slide hammer+torch+PB Blaster+drfit+2lb hammer+anger

 

Posi-Lock 3 jaw puller did the trick for mine, but I still needed penetrant and a small hammer because rust/corrosion is inevitable.

Holy crap, brake pads have gotten expensive since I’ve shopped for them last. I had no idea that I’d be spending $2-300 for a set of good street pads.

 

My rears started squealing last week. They are Porterfeld RS-4 that are about six years old with ~ 16k mi. on them. I have StopTech Street on the front and they are fine but also about four years old with ~9k on them.

 

Looks like I’m going with HPS 5.0 this time just to try something new.

 

 

The Hawk HPS I used to buy are still less than $100 for a set (front or rear) on Amazon.

Posi-Lock 3 jaw puller did the trick for mine, but I still needed penetrant and a small hammer because rust/corrosion is inevitable.

 

Need to give the PB Blaster or Aero-Kroil time to do its work. It may take over night...

My clutch pedal rubber cover got worn out.

 

Subaru quality is no good, what, only 14 years and 226K miles before it wears out? /S

 

Might have to splurge for STi pedal covers set.

 

Yeah, same here. Mine lasted an extra 4k miles though:cool:

 

36015GA111 - $12.50 on amazon is the stock rubber. I momentarily contemplated fancy pedals, but I know that my eye will be drawn to them, and they'll always be dirty. Hopefully this is all my car will need to last another 230k!

i've been running without a rubber on for years...

i've been running without a rubber on for years...

 

 

...zing?

Got my AEM UEGO installed and hooked up to Btssm.

 

 

 

Used this to wire everything.

Connected to the Sensor 0-5v and Sensor ground of the right side TGV.

Connected 12v switched to the power wire for the rear O2

Connected ground to the strut tower/brace

 

 

 

When I went to remove the plug in the bellmouth for the Invidia downpipe, I found that the plug was no longer tight... Possible exhaust leak is no more, the sensor is in nice and tight.

 

 

 

Tucked controller and all the wiring off to the side a bit, where I can still see them, but out of the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Charted a little bit of stock O2 and AEM UEGO, they are close, but the AEM is definitely quicker to respond and can go below 11.1. Interestingly though it doesn't go up above 18, which kind of surprised me. I'm using the AEM provided formula for Btssm.

 

 

Anyway, now I have that done, I need to get my day job(s) done and maybe this weekend I can do a little logging and tuning.

Edited September 9, 2019 by Infosecdad

Got my AEM UEGO installed and hooked up to Btssm.

 

 

[ATTACH]279195[/ATTACH]

 

Used this to wire everything.

Connected to the Sensor 0-5v and Sensor ground of the right side TGV.

Connected 12v switched to the power wire for the rear O2

Connected ground to the strut tower/brace

 

 

[ATTACH]279196[/ATTACH]

 

When I went to remove the plug in the bellmouth for the Invidia downpipe, I found that the plug was no longer tight... Possible exhaust leak is no more, the sensor is in nice and tight.

 

 

[ATTACH]279197[/ATTACH]

 

Tucked controller and all the wiring off to the side a bit, where I can still see them, but out of the way.

 

 

[ATTACH]279198[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]279199[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]279200[/ATTACH]

 

Charted a little bit of stock O2 and AEM UEGO, they are close, but the AEM is definitely quicker to respond and can go below 11.1. Interestingly though it doesn't go up above 18, which kind of surprised me. I'm using the AEM provided formula for Btssm.

 

 

Anyway, now I have that done, I need to get my day job(s) done and maybe this weekend I can do a little logging and tuning.

 

!!!AWESOME!!!

 

Guess who was going to wing this very process in the immediate future?

i've been running without a rubber on for years...

 

Wife had tubes removed a few years ago...still need to be safe while driving

Tossed a can of CERATEC into the crankcase, then took it for a 30min or so drive, mostly staying out of boost and traffic. Came back and re-did a compression check, same results:

 

Cyl 1:

 

Cyl 3:

 

Cyl 2:

 

Cyl 4:

 

Will keep driving it occasionally for the next month or two for funsies before bringing it back to my parents' place for parking over the winter. Time to start thinking about what exactly I want for my build

Cannot imagine this both 2 and 4 pistons. That has got to be a valve/cam issue...unless it's the Bank 2 HG

Yeah, same here. Mine lasted an extra 4k miles though:cool:

 

36015GA111 - $12.50 on amazon is the stock rubber. I momentarily contemplated fancy pedals, but I know that my eye will be drawn to them, and they'll always be dirty. Hopefully this is all my car will need to last another 230k!

 

Mine came with the fancy STI pedals, although not my favorite color. (Red)

 

It looks like the rubber in the STI pedals is replaceable but I have never been able to confirm or source a PN.

Cannot imagine this both 2 and 4 pistons. That has got to be a valve/cam issue...unless it's the Bank 2 HG

 

That was my initial thought too. I'm ruling out the HG since it's brand new and the shop did the work... I'd be dumbfounded if they screwed that up. Similarly, I'd be surprised if anything on the freshly rebuilt heads is screwed up, incl. valve clearances, etc.

 

I'm still considering that maybe I did screw up timing, or perhaps the belt jumped a tooth, but I'm very skeptical that's the issue. It was for sure good before I buttoned up and reinstalled the motor, and the motor seems to run smoothly and with plenty of power on throttle/WOT. Only issues with actual running on the street is rough return to idle after tip-out from e.g. blipping the throttle while idling; returning to idle from coasting is always seamless. This is likely a tune issue, and has been with the car for a long time. Also rough starting/cranking when warm; car cranks and fires up almost instantly when cold, which indicates to me the low compression is only when hot (will try a cold compression test for funsies). Minor misfire counts (0-1 on cyl 1 and 3, 0-2 on cyl 4, nothing on cyl 2) at idle, otherwise smooth. AVCS positions are as commanded and match on both banks.

 

Symptoms are excessive blow-by, smoke in the intake tract and from the oil cap, etc. From my understanding this can only be ringlands at this point. The thing that gets me is that, if it is the ringlands, there is absolutely no visual indication, either in the piston crowns or the cylinder walls. I'd expect at least some scoring in the cylinders if the first or second ringlands had cracked or shattered, or the rings were binding.

So my exhaust rusted out over the weekend and I need to have it fixed. I'm thinking now is a good time to do downpipe and exhaust. Priorities from most important to least: noise (needs to be relatively quiet), emissions (want to keep all cats, if possible), performance, price (but nothing crazy).

 

What kind of options do I have? Years ago, I brought a catted downpipe that I never installed, so I'd like to use that. I was thinking about a Borla catback system -- does that mate directly with the downpipe? What happens to the cat after the DP? Does it just get chucked?

 

Are there any quiet turboback systems on the market now?

Tossed a can of CERATEC into the crankcase, then took it for a 30min or so drive, mostly staying out of boost and traffic.

 

 

CERATEC needs about 300 miles (500km) to show results. It's not instant.

 

 

I still think your shortblock is not a problem as far cyls 2 & 4 go. Too close on their readings to fail together.

 

 

 

You could have jumped just the exhaust by a tooth or two to lose enough compression.

 

 

Or you might have jumped the intake which could better explain the problem you're seeing with oil in the intake. pistons could be pushing out of the cylinders into intake if timing is off.

 

 

 

I understand it sucks to do but I'd still take the pass side cover off to check the marks.

 

 

Don't assume shop did it all right. (You're an engineer, right? ). I had to pull motor out son's OB because shop didn't set valve clearances right. No compression == no start.

 

 

That's after they haven't cleaned the heads and I had to pull one head off the block when bunch of metal shavings fell out of the other head when I started the install.

 

 

And that's reputable shop. They just can't be rushed, otherwise isht happens.

 

 

Trust but verify.

 

Symptoms are excessive blow-by, smoke in the intake tract and from the oil cap, etc. From my understanding this can only be ringlands at this point. The thing that gets me is that, if it is the ringlands, there is absolutely no visual indication, either in the piston crowns or the cylinder walls. I'd expect at least some scoring in the cylinders if the first or second ringlands had cracked or shattered, or the rings were binding.

 

 

Smoke from oil cap is somewhat normal. To an extent of course but it does not come out clear.

 

 

Give that CERATEC some time to work it's course.

It's also possible that your vapor canister valve solenoid could be stuck open on the left bank. It should be closed when you're cranking, and then it opens to recirculate the vapor canister gasses once the car is warm. But if it's stuck open, then it would start with a vac leak. I don't know if that would show up on a compression tester though.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7494908&cc=1440450&jsn=2

 

Oh, I'm mentioning this because if the car has excessive blowby, then that's what gunks it up and causes these to stick.

Got the wagon back with leaking fuel tank replaced; new rear brake calipers (seized), rotors and pads. They undercoated the tank before installation and along with most of the underbody. They also replaced the corroded brake lines (while tank was out, pictures were provided) subsequent to the recall where the dealer said were fine but applied anti-corrosion sauce... Then I replaced the HVAC blower that seized and was full of pine needles...followed by a well deserved wash and speed wax. Hoping to get more miles on the 239+ k mi RBP wagon.

It's also possible that your vapor canister valve solenoid could be stuck open on the left bank. It should be closed when you're cranking, and then it opens to recirculate the vapor canister gasses once the car is warm. But if it's stuck open, then it would start with a vac leak. I don't know if that would show up on a compression tester though.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7494908&cc=1440450&jsn=2

 

Oh, I'm mentioning this because if the car has excessive blowby, then that's what gunks it up and causes these to stick.

 

I did break one of the barbs off of that when I was pulling the motor; JB-welded it back together (yes, I made sure to not plug the hole). That said, it shouldn't make any impact on compression; it connects to the fuel lines and to the intake manifold.

 

Made a coolant mess pulling the fans, crank pulley, and the LH/RH timing covers off to check timing. Dead-on, as I suspected.

 

http://i.imgur.com/kd1DUEdt.jpg-------------------http://i.imgur.com/DGKj9tIt.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/i2AZ5Gpt.jpg http://i.imgur.com/0Q7FND0t.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XnGaDGOt.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/H8tZVnSt.jpg-------------------http://i.imgur.com/ZKp8Boot.jpg

 

Then ran a cold compression test, exactly the same numbers as a warm test on all cylinders. Buttoned everything up and fired it up to refill/burp the cooling system. While I was revving the engine, I noticed that the LH bank AVCS was oscillating, where the RH bank was pretty steady. Wondering if low compression could cause AVCS issues, or if its the other way around, and the camshafts are getting stuck. Still, convinced #INANSB, so I'll drive the car occasionally to see if it magically goes away post-CERATEC, and save up for a new motor. Maybe get in touch with the shop that did the head rebuild and longblock assembly for a second opinion.

hmm. those timing marks are certainly spot on. I can't comment on AVCS movements or lack thereof - I am NOT experienced enough to make judgement on what that means.

 

I'd say if the car drives keep driving it and see what happens. When/If white smoke disappears, recheck the compression numbers.

Edited September 11, 2019 by SubOperator