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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Towed my son's '98 Outback with my wagon because his 4eat ate itself today.

 

I really wish he would let me put one of the spare 5mts I have in there.

 

Now to determine if I should find a 4eat that's in decent shape, see if a 5eat will work, or cave to pressure to just get a different car.

 

Also found that it sheared one of the front axles, add that to the parts list... :spin:

Edited by Infosecdad
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Towed my son's '98 Outback with my wagon because his 4eat ate itself today.

 

I really wish he would let me put one of the spare 5mts I have in there.

 

Now to determine if I should find a 4eat that's in decent shape, see if a 5eat will work, or cave to pressure to just get a different car.

*cough* 6 speed swap... *cough*

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

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Found and fixed bad sensor ground, brought car home. Feels good. Car now features a BCP X500 and an RA block with gapped rings to prevent cracking a ringland like I did on the last one I ran a while back. Ended up doing the RA after finding some uh, strong indications that the machine shop may have mistorqued the torque plate when they bored the block I was intending to use. As in the bores were so out of round in free state that a piston skirt dug into a cylinder wall on install. Get to have a nice chat with them once I take some more measurements.

 

Brand new ACT throwout bearing is making noise which is lame, but easy fix when I care more. Just happy to have my car back.

IMG20220408191729.thumb.jpg.a4eecd1942bc3261119e814f16a2d54c.jpg

IMG20220408202350.thumb.jpg.729035e9ae47cca84a52ec2fa04977e5.jpg

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... see if a 5eat will work

 

It wont. Or well, it wont without costing more than a whole new car. And you better pull out all of your embedded programing knowledge for the canbus converters would have to build.

 

cave to pressure to just get a different car.

 

I mean, if you really want him to have a 5EAT there is an option that would have a very big (35%+)easy of transaction discount.

Edited by utc_pyro
Upped discount because I'm dreading FB marketplace. Really $4k, come get it.
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It wont. Or well, it wont without costing more than a whole new car. And you better pull out all of your embedded programing knowledge for the canbus converters would have to build.

 

 

 

I mean, if you really want him to have a 5EAT there is an option that would have a very big (35%+)easy of transaction discount.

 

7k?

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7k?

 

Looking at Craigslist/FB Market place I haven't seen many turbo Subarus without obviously blown engines for less than $6K in the last 4 months. If it was MT it'd probably be worth quite a bit more best I can tell.

 

If someone rang my door bell and handed me $5K right now they could have it, especially if they'd grab all the spare parts from my house and storage at the same time.

 

Edit: Then I was offering a discount to Infosecdad on top of that if I can convince him to take this thing. Mainly because I know he's been eyeing up the PSS coilovers that are on it for his wagon. Plus I've met him, he seems cool, and he's local enough to come get it plus all the spare parts. That's a big headache saver.

Edited by utc_pyro
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I feel sorry for everyone who doesn't own a GRP LGT... :p

 

 

sY1WCwY.jpg

 

Great day for some minor paint correction and getting it ready for another driving season. This week I'm going to have the windshield replaced again - I had the original windshield replaced back in February while I had the cowl out to get rid of a mouse that took up residence on my cabin filter, but the installer didn't get a good seal between the molding and the body. Going with another installer this time, assuming they think they can do better. Pic below shows the screen I made to keep critters out of the airbox, and the ultrasonic deterrent I still need to wire up (I've had to do this on my other vehicles as well - that's living in the woods for ya). Last pic shows the gap between the windshield molding and the body - previous installer suggested using a heat gun to mold it into place, which is why I won't be going back to him.

 

oC5etIe.jpg

i4pvAns.jpg

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Looking at Craigslist/FB Market place I haven't seen many turbo Subarus without obviously blown engines for less than $6K in the last 4 months. If it was MT it'd probably be worth quite a bit more best I can tell.

 

If someone rang my door bell and handed me $5K right now they could have it, especially if they'd grab all the spare parts from my house and storage at the same time.

 

Edit: Then I was offering a discount to Infosecdad on top of that if I can convince him to take this thing. Mainly because I know he's been eyeing up the PSS coilovers that are on it for his wagon. Plus I've met him, he seems cool, and he's local enough to come get it plus all the spare parts. That's a big headache saver.

 

Yeah, I missed that the first time, sorry :spin:

 

I'm looking to see if I can do it, should hopefully know in the next couple days.

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I feel sorry for everyone who doesn't own a GRP LGT... :p

 

 

sY1WCwY.jpg

 

Great day for some minor paint correction and getting it ready for another driving season. This week I'm going to have the windshield replaced again - I had the original windshield replaced back in February while I had the cowl out to get rid of a mouse that took up residence on my cabin filter, but the installer didn't get a good seal between the molding and the body. Going with another installer this time, assuming they think they can do better. Pic below shows the screen I made to keep critters out of the airbox, and the ultrasonic deterrent I still need to wire up (I've had to do this on my other vehicles as well - that's living in the woods for ya). Last pic shows the gap between the windshield molding and the body - previous installer suggested using a heat gun to mold it into place, which is why I won't be going back to him.

 

oC5etIe.jpg

i4pvAns.jpg

 

 

Laughed at "driving season". How many miles do you have on it?

 

 

 

Good call on the intake protection, what about the exhaust vents under the rear bumper skin?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Found a cheap, used, low-mile caliper to get me through the summer. Nice to see the newer WRXs still using the exact same front caliper as our GTs.

 

Going to swap in all the stainless lines I've had brand new in the bag for years now. Any specific order I should follow? Closest corner to the reservoir first working my way out until I'm furthest away for the last corner?

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Laughed at "driving season". How many miles do you have on it?

 

Good call on the intake protection, what about the exhaust vents under the rear bumper skin?

 

It’s at 89,5xx currently. I’m going to be driving it more this year now that I’m back to work full time. Only thing holding me back from year-round driving is the summer rubber. The tires turn 10 years old this year so they will be getting replaced with some all seasons in the fall.

 

I wasn’t aware of any cabin venting that exits under the bumper skin. I’ll have to check that out. Thanks for the heads up.

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I'd think fsm bleed order would be more important than install order, but that's a completely uneducated and inexperienced guess.

 

#holidayinnexpress

 

Should have clarified I meant the bleeding procedure. Vacation pics to the rescue; "Perform the operation in the order from the farthest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder"

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Ah very good. Well in that case I didn't actually stay at a holiday inn express last night. Just wanted to sound smart.

 

I scheduled the second airbag recall and ordered the engine bay splash tray. I've had the brayson r lip on the shelf for a few years, figured I might as well see the mpg I'm missing out on. Or not, it's magic anyway.

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It’s at 89,5xx currently. I’m going to be driving it more this year now that I’m back to work full time. Only thing holding me back from year-round driving is the summer rubber. The tires turn 10 years old this year so they will be getting replaced with some all seasons in the fall.

 

I wasn’t aware of any cabin venting that exits under the bumper skin. I’ll have to check that out. Thanks for the heads up.

 

The wagon folk were discussing it a few years ago.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/worsening-exhaust-smell-through-windows-264977.html

Found this for my own curiosity today.

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Haven’t been on here in a while for a lot of reasons… but I just took a trip to the shop to drop off the last remaining parts necessary for them to install my forged motor with a JmP 20g and flex fuel. Dyno tune day should be maybe next week and I’m curious to see how far they’ll wanna push into the 400hp+ threshold considering I still have a 5speed instead of the 6speed. Whatever happens, happens lol
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Filled up the car after it's first full tank after getting it replaced with a bunch of other odds and ends and of course, the timing belt service. I got 335 miles on the trip and the car averaged 24.0 mpg (moving average). This was attained by very minimal idling, 75mph on cruise, and not hitting 5k rpm on most highway merges. In other words, driving like a "normal" person.

 

Who'd thunk it that swapping to newer transmission would actually save money???

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

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The wagon folk were discussing it a few years ago.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/worsening-exhaust-smell-through-windows-264977.html

Found this for my own curiosity today.

 

 

Thanks for the link - jogged my memory from when I rewired the FPCM many years back. You can just make out the vent in the shadow on the left side of the pic. I'll check those vents and make some more mesh screens if needed.

 

 

 

MRowbRQ.jpg

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Today: Drove it around the block checking the water injection system and tweak the boost control.

 

The former looked strange on the display, but was actually working fine including failsafes tripping when I turned up the scaling.

 

The latter was closer than I though already once I upped the overboost failsafe to 19PSI. It was apparently barely going over 18PSI tripping it out. It looks like that was caused by the "I" term building up because I'd tuned it originally around freezing.

 

But it seems to have developed some sort of strange noise while turning over bumps. Which I have no time to diagnose as I'm moving very soon. Maybe I do need to take boxkita's lowball offer to just get this thing gone. Not sure how he'd get it across the country though.

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