b071dc0 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 I guess there's plenty of thread there, better trim it for the adjustability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Trimming the ITR and getting the thinner jam nut is strictly to get a bit extra range for adjustability. May not be required but can't hurt when it comes time for the alignment. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonah_ow Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Slightly off topic but still close. Will a 2011 STi steering U-Joint assembly also fit an 05 LGT? I found one for significantly less than the 2015 joint is brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) Just to confirm - The thinner Jam nuts needed are M14x1.5? Why does the STI tie rod need to be cut? is it long enough that it bottoms out in the outer tie rod (i.e. threads are left and the outer tie rod can't be screwed in more)? The cut just lets you crank it down a little more? And realized I was getting confused for the terms inner / outer tie rod. The inner tie rod is the part that is attached to the steering rack. And the outer tie rod screws over that (what KCA313 replaces)? Underdog, do happen to know what physical differences are of the OBXT rack? Not sure if you have pulled one out and looked at it. There seem to be some differences based off of this thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/info-ob-gt-suspension-geometry-removing-spacer-180579p3.html there is a difference. Trying to figure out what modifications I'll need to make (if any) with my body spacers in. Thanks! Edited January 9, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Your link didn't take me to a specific product. Here is the jam nut I used: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91938a130 If you put the thinner jam nut on without trimming the end of the inner tie rod then the ITR will bottom out in the female threads of the OTR, rendering the thinner jam nut pointless. Yes, OTR is what attaches to the knuckle, i.e. One of the pieces KCA313 replaces. The differences of the OBXT rack come down to the input shaft stub length I believe, as well as the ratio obviously. The steering column length may be slightly different as well but I have not confirmed it. I don't know if the OBXT u-joint is long enough to connect the steering column to STI or LGT racks with the body lift in place, but I suspect it would work. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) Thanks Underdog, I feel stupid asking some of these basic questions, but I realized looking at this last night that I was thinking about the inner / outer tie rods completely wrong and wanted to confirm that I had switched to the right way of thinking. Searching around it looks like potentially my steering joint might be slightly too short. The recommendation is to grind off the bolts and add spacers to the rubber section. Any concerns with doing that? Just make sure to use loctite on the bolts used to hold it back together? Looking at this picture it looks like I just need to find bolts that are pretty thin overall. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-5YAAOSwLVZVt7qV/s-l1600.jpg Edited January 9, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 I haven't looked closely at the u-joint construction but that seems like a good option. Let me know if you need measurements off a LGT u-joint. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Anyone done this on a VDC equipped car yet? I planned on replacing some of the PS lines because of corrosion... I might as well replace rack if I'm doing work there anyway........... Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Either you or Mac need to sack up and get the damn thing done so we can know once and for all. I've seen a few isolated reports of VDC issues on WRXs but many more retrofits working completely fine. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanazteck261 Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Decided to do rods...so my block is at machine shop. Got my rack cut already, but car probably wont be back up until end of jan at earliest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) I am getting much closer to doing it. I need to take a bunch of measurements off of my Outback first though so I know exactly what I'll need to modify. I'll probably do it once winter is over. Don't want to potentially have my car down and miss out on good snowboarding this year. I also want to buy winter tires - so there goes $550. Looks like 2 out of 50ish people have had issues with the STI rack. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=44093570 Edited January 11, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 Welps... I pulled the trigger and purchased a 2015 STi Steering rack (34110va120) w/ u joint. I found one on ebay (used) for $299.99. My plans to finish my car have been postponed yet again... for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 Welps... I pulled the trigger and purchased a 2015 STi Steering rack (34110va120) w/ u joint. I found one on ebay (used) for $299.99. My plans to finish my car have been postponed yet again... for parts. VDC? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b071dc0 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) If anyone is having trouble finding the 'jam nut' at a hardware store and there's an Audi/Volkswagen dealer nearby try part number N10218708. I want to note I have not tried it yet but from what info I could find it is an M14x1.5 jam nut (slim nut), which is used on some of their tie rods. I hope there isn't a subaru nut which fits that profile I wouldn't know what to do with myself knowing I used non subaru parts. Edited January 17, 2016 by b071dc0 Didn't finish a sentence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 If anyone is having trouble finding the 'jam nut' at a hardware store and there's an Audi/Volkswagen dealer nearby try part number N10218708. I want to note I have not tried it yet but from what info I could find it is an M14x1.5 jam nut (slim nut), which is used on some of their tie rods. I hope there isn't a subaru nut which fits that profile I wouldn't know what to do with myself knowing I used non subaru parts. Underdog also posted the link to buy the jam nut above in post 130. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5310426&postcount=130 My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b071dc0 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Yeah thanks. I should have clarified, I was looking for a local pickup and I stumbled across it at Audi. I'll take any excuse to take a drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 So for those looking to do this and have the VDC question... I've been reading up on iwsti. from what I've read so far (I've only gotten to page 30 so far) VDC is not an issue. I suggest you read as well and see if this is something you want to do. There are about 76 pages. There are a few other threads on iwsti and nasioc on this too. http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspension-handling-stiffening/268436-swap-2015-rack-into-earlier-sti-parts-update-post-1-a.html Around post 168 is where the user has it installed - http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspension-handling-stiffening/268436-swap-2015-rack-into-earlier-sti-parts-update-post-1-a-17.html Around post 230 he has done some driving testing - http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspension-handling-stiffening/268436-swap-2015-rack-into-earlier-sti-parts-update-post-1-a-23.html http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4031860-post293.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 More info - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=44094090 Noximus is the main guy keeping track of this. Of the 50 or so who have done the swap only two have reported an issue with VDC. A 2011 WRX and 2010 STI. I think I have read the IWSTI thread twice, all indications point to it will work without very little drama. The faults seem to be one-offs and it could easily be something else that is broken. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Ground breaking. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I know we are just polluting your great thread repeating the same information to each other My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Honestly had I decided to keep my OBXT this would be long settled by now. Glad Peter is taking the plunge so we can put this question to rest. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Honestly had I decided to keep my OBXT this would be long settled by now. Glad Peter is taking the plunge so we can put this question to rest. Peter just keeps buying parts and not installing them....who knows how long it will be. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 If any of you poor unfortunate souls with VDC-equipped cars (the system sucks - I turn it off every time I take the OBXT out in the snow) want to try your hand at a quicker rack without the expense of the STI model, I am selling my LGT rack. OBXT turns lock-to-lock = 3.2 LGT turns lock-to-lock = 2.8 STI turns lock-to-lock = 2.4 The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) If any of you poor unfortunate souls with VDC-equipped cars (the system sucks - I turn it off every time I take the OBXT out in the snow) want to try your hand at a quicker rack without the expense of the STI model, I am selling my LGT rack. OBXT turns lock-to-lock = 3.2 LGT turns lock-to-lock = 2.8 STI turns lock-to-lock = 2.4 That's a great price, but I know I would just keep thinking "not the rack I want". Completely unrelated. What don't you like about the VDC system? I mostly don't notice it, and once it straightened the car out when I was going too fast through an off camber turn. But, that's on dry and not snow. Edited January 20, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Yes, clearly not the rack for the person who knows what they want, but not why or how to get there. I dislike VDC because I find it far more predictable, stable, and fun, to control the car by steady application of throttle and steering inputs, allowing the differentials to work as intended, rather than relying on the algorithm selectively braking the slipping wheels. Then again I am always driving seasonally appropriate tires, so for those who are riding on less-than-ideal tires and don't want to pay attention to driving in general, or specifically for the conditions, VDC may be the better option. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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