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The Oil Filter discussion thread.


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So this is interesting... heres the response I got when I noted that I couldnt find anything other then 23psi bypass spec in all of the Subaru FSM's from 1992 to 2015:

 

"We reviewed the Subaru data closely and were able to confirm the correct oil filters for your vehicles. As you probably know, Subaru has superseded many filters throughout the years where they are now left with only a few.

 

For your Forester, we correctly recommend the X4460 as that filter has a 23PSI valve, and it is a wide-body version matching the original Subaru oil filter. The S4615 is a great Synthetic option for this application as it has the 23PSI valve and all other critical features and dimensions match the X4460.

 

For your Impreza, the recommended Subaru filter 15208-AA12A has the 23PSI valve. The correct ECOGARD filter is the X4615, or the S4615. We will update our catalog to recommend the 4615 instead of the 4612.

 

I apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you. As an appreciation of your help and patience on this matter, I would like to send you S4615 filters and some extras in a care package at our cost. Let me know your address and I will have our team send them to you promptly.

 

Thank you"

 

Its just insane to me that they can sell any filter at nearly $2, much less have it match OEM spec and have good customer service. The synthetic ones are around $5 and have improved filtration. I think I've found my filter... but I'm still going to consider a bypass setup as well :p

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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I have run just about every filter they sell at advance auto. The decision usually lies in which one is on sale in combination with Castrol Edge.

 

Before my 02 WRX blew I had an oil pressure gauge in it. I noted VAST differences in oil pressure between each filter, around 20-30 PSI differences between most the major brands.

 

The Mobil 1 filters seemed to run at the highest pressure which also resulted in the smoothest powerband. Obviously the differences were minor, but it's also worth noting that the previous owner had the car tuned on a Mobil 1 filter so that is likely why it felt better with those on.

 

On my legacy which is running a base map from cobb, I do not notice hardly any difference at all between the oil filters, but I still try to run the Mobil 1 filters because they worked the best on my WRX and old habits die hard.

 

ultimately my conclusion is that with today's advances in filter media pretty much all filters are good enough and/or equivalent. However, if you get a pro tune with a certain type of filter you will likely notice that the car runs slightly better with that brand of filter.

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  • 2 weeks later...
What are thoughts/knowledge re using the longer 15208AA15A OEM filter in place of the 15208AA12A filter on an EJ engine? We have 2x EJ253, 1x EJ255, and 1x FA20 here. The FA20F (2018 Forester) uses the larger filter. Is it acceptable to use the longer filter on the EJ engine? Needing only one filter on hand will simplify things a bit. Or might the longer filter on the EJ pick up added heat from the exhaust header surrounding it?

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Edited by 59ctd
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What are thoughts/knowledge re using the longer 15208AA15A OEM filter in place of the 15208AA12A filter on an EJ engine? We have 2x EJ253, 1x EJ255, and 1x FA20 here. The FA20F (2018 Forester) uses the larger filter. Is it acceptable to use the longer filter on the EJ engine? Needing only one filter on hand will simplify things a bit. Or might the longer filter on the EJ pick up added heat from the exhaust header surrounding it?
I use the 15A filter on my EJ. The wix version is part number 57055 or Napa Gold 7055.

 

The major difference is that the 15A has a higher bypass at something like 27/28 psi instead of the standard 23 psi bypass.

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What are thoughts/knowledge re using the longer 15208AA15A OEM filter in place of the 15208AA12A filter on an EJ engine? We have 2x EJ253, 1x EJ255, and 1x FA20 here. The FA20F (2018 Forester) uses the larger filter. Is it acceptable to use the longer filter on the EJ engine? Needing only one filter on hand will simplify things a bit. Or might the longer filter on the EJ pick up added heat from the exhaust header surrounding it?

 

Plenty of people run the Mazda version of the old Tokyo Roki filter which is longer and have no problems. If I remember correctly reducing heat was the intention of shrinking the filter but I dont think its a huge issue. If you want to be preventitive theres oil filter blankets to reflect header heat. But i think theres more too it then that between the two OEM filters

 

The only thing I'm unsure of is the bypass setting for the FA engines. I know all EJ's have a 23psi spec - but I've not looked into the FA engines.

 

I was unable to find the information I wanted to verify, so I reached out to FRAM. They Confirmed that they do infact manufacture Subaru's filters, but "Do not have access to release proprietary information" :rolleyes: They gave me SOA's number.

 

Calling Subaru was like pulling Teeth!! You'd think I was asking for some super secret security clearance! Maybe I should have pulled a Rob Dahm and pretend im Travis Pastrana asking for information. :lol: Subaru of America flat out said that they call "A dealer service manager" for "technical information". :confused: So they admit they could have gotten this info but decided to pass it off anyway?

 

I put a call into Cole who is a name at Heuberger that SOA gave me that they contact but had to leave a message.

 

rhino - where did you find that spec?

 

I found these specs: https://www.comeanddriveit.com/specs/fa20dit which seem to indicate the oil pump has been downsized greatly which I believe would in turn lower the bypass of the filter.

 

I honestly was assuming they were the exact same - just height different for the heat issue but there seems to be more to it. If the bypass is in fact different you would want to use the right filter to prevent starvation or unfiltered oil conditions.

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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Here you go you oil filter groupies.

 

It's not up on his site yet though.

 

Thats dope. I need to join more social media - I got the cooling mod but it just mentioned "more things in development".

 

I guess I dont get why you would want a remote oil filter setup with additional regulator - as I understand it shimming the pump is the only real mod needed for good pressure and flow with Subaru oiling. So I asked and this is what Dom said:

 

"The relief location is poor.

The oil is very slow to get to the heads.

The oil is slower to get out of the heads and back to the pan, resulting in major issues with pressure during cornering.

The cooler is inadequate for heavy use.

The pickup is restrictive.

The filter is small overall and the bypass opens at a low pressure.

The mains don't stay round resulting in pressure that drops with mileage.

The filter is tucked up against the header and gets a lot of heat from it. Also difficult to change due to location. Worse with some headers vs others.

 

My oil setup addresses:

Filtration quality.

Filtration pressure drop.

Messiness of oil changes.

Improper regulator location and sensing points, reducing pressure drop with rpm.

Inadequate cooling.

Low filter bypass pressure setpoint.

 

It eases pressure and temp sensor installation, use of oil coolers, allows user to adjust pressure, allows user to adjust temperature, allows user to adjust restriction etc. "

 

And then I asked to clarify about the oil bypass and adding a heater to pull fuel and water from the oil:

 

"A lot of aftermarket oil filter companies run 8-20psi reliefs. 8 is way too low, but honestly, I don't want any bypass. I want the filter to be changed often enough that it isn't an issue. Last thing I want is a slug of crap to come off the filter and slip through the relief. Having the relief external to the filter provides some protection against that. Also, my setup allows more than one filter to be run in parallel which reduces pressure drop substantially.

 

The factory cooler is also a heater. Getting oil heated in a Subaru is not an issue. A lot of thermostats are set too cold, but that isn't an issue for Subarus usually. Fuel boils way less than water and it is not uncommon to see oil temps over 220 leaving the engine. In short, an add-on heater is not needed at all. AOS needs it because they deal with vapor; both oil and both combustion gases. This isn't a vapor system and won't be subject to condensation. "

 

Sounds really good. I'll be interested to see the tests and results of it.

 

Never heard back from Cole - not surprised. I need to go pick up some ATF and gear oil so maybe I'll drop by and say hi.

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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I've been impressed with everything Dom has put out. (videos, products, explanations, etc)

 

I cannot say the same about some of the other "Subaru Specialists" I have dealt with.

 

Personally I think this mod would be worth it just to get my filter away from my Killer B headers. For heat related reasons and the PITA during the oil change.

 

I also agree with him %100 on the bypass issues. I change my oil/filter at or before 3000 miles for this reason and since I'm running ethanol nearly exclusively. The black Tokyo Roki filter is 1/4" (at the most) away from touching my header.

 

As far as the social media, I only really use it for car related groups. Unfortunately the forums seem to be dying a slow death.

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Isn't he the one who put out a video 'trashing' the use of lightweight crank pulleys? He convinced me not use these anymore :spin:

 

Yup. His fueling video is why I overkill and bought an ID750 filter and I believe I got two or three vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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You are looking for something like this:

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-25707/

 

but with a better than 1 star rating. There used to be dual and quad filter adapters available through places like J. C. Whitney.

 

Another possibility would be to use an adapter that would take a single large filter (heavy diesel size) - there is nothing saying you have to retain the same type of filter that was originally specified as long as the micron filtering level and the relief pressure are adequate. Once you go remote, size doesn't matter.

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I am not sure why you would want a system like posted above. I know in the Amsoil world and diesel world we do many Dual bypass system and they work great.

 

I have just ran the Ea Amsoil filter, and their oil on my 04 STI, 09 WRX, 06 OB, 08 Leggy 2.5i, and on my 13 Legacy 2.5i, My 06 LGT am building will have the same setup. I have yet to see a problem. I won't get into why it cost so much and why it's not in every store like Walmart and so on. There is a reason.

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Yup. His fueling video is why I overkill and bought an ID750 filter and I believe I got two or three vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

 

Would you mind posting pictures of your setup? I'm interested in your vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

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Would you mind posting pictures of your setup? I'm interested in your vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

 

I was going to post a pic of the box its all in but the photo was too large :lol:

 

Unfortunately life has gotten in the way and I havent installed anything yet. I'll probably do a thread when I do install because I'll need some sort of help I bet. Doing top feed, VF52 and flex fuel all at the same time. I have a plan, but everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face!

05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters.
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