What did you buy for your 5th gen today? - V3

pictures in this post:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5245606&postcount=17

things are recessed in there (the top of the bolts aren't - you can get a tool on those - but you are going to have to fish the assembly in there and get everything to stay (banjo bolts and gaskets) - really looks pretty do-able.

How do the oil lines look? Maybe they were quoting to replace a whole lot more than just the coolant lines...

pictures in this post:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5245606&postcount=17

things are recessed in there (the top of the bolts aren't - you can get a tool on those - but you are going to have to fish the assembly in there and get everything to stay (banjo bolts and gaskets) - really looks pretty do-able.

 

 

How do the oil lines look? Maybe they were quoting to replace a whole lot more than just the coolant lines...

oil lines look alright, they haven't seen the car in quite some time, they did the quote off what i i told them i wanted replaced which was "all coolant lines/fittings/gaskets" then again god knows what got them up to that number, they were also saying they drop the manifold with the turbo typically so... needless to say I'm not going to have them do the job at that price. if when they have the car for the parking brake/airbag recalls they look at it and lower their quote than maybe. the repair manager did say they have never done one before so they really had no idea.

I picked up a project 2011 Legacy GT today, it is 100% stock, 126k miles and it good shape. It seem comparable to my 2012 GT. The project car part is that it has one dead cylinder. It reminds me a lot of my '12 2.5i 6MT (same color) and it seemed to part throttle accelerate on highway about the same. The driver seat also seems to go lower than my 2012 GT (I was pretty sure my 2.5i power seat also went lower.) The factory shifter sucks.

Anyways, I am going to be pulling the motor in the coming weeks to diagnose why one of the cylinder has 0 compression.

I picked up a project 2011 Legacy GT today, it is 100% stock, 126k miles and it good shape. It seem comparable to my 2012 GT. The project car part is that it has one dead cylinder. It reminds me a lot of my '12 2.5i 6MT (same color) and it seemed to part throttle accelerate on highway about the same. The driver seat also seems to go lower than my 2012 GT (I was pretty sure my 2.5i power seat also went lower.) The factory shifter sucks.

 

Anyways, I am going to be pulling the motor in the coming weeks to diagnose why one of the cylinder has 0 compression.

How much dough did it cost you? Sounds like a great project car!

How much dough did it cost you? Sounds like a great project car!

I may flip it, so I don't want to advertise the price now. It is priced that so if I have to replace the motor and rebuild the heads, I will make a small profit on it. If it only needs to rebuild the heads, I will make out pretty well.

I may flip it, so I don't want to advertise the price now. It is priced that so if I have to replace the motor and rebuild the heads, I will make a small profit on it. If it only needs to rebuild the heads, I will make out pretty well.

Haha I respect that! Sounds like the car has a really high chance of becoming a nice pick up for you

Bought a Hardrace master cylinder brace from Tegiwa Imports in UK via eBay - link below. Confirmed with vendor it is for LHD. Not in stock but they expect it should ship in a few weeks. It’s the copy of a Cusco part that isn’t available here, as discussed in other threads. Will advise once it arrives and I install it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HARDRACE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-STOPPER-1PC-FOR-SUBARU-OUTBACK-BR/202496920082?pageci=79e77f36-9fa1-4e3e-988f-893811b7b4e8&epid=15025702434

Decided it might be time to add some power.

Called Brentuning. They suggested going downpipe + boost controller + dyno. Said will need to test the engine for reliability, may need new spark plugs, mf sensor. Total rough estimate is $2500 with dyno tune.

Decided to install downpipe at the local performance shop instead. Guy there said that I may need to upgrade fuel system for power gains. Then was almost talking me out of power mods unless I am ready to deal with engine problems. Said that even with modest power increases internal parts are known to fail (pistons/rods?). Clean, experienced shop, but was he just trying to see how committed I am? My car does have 130kmi. In any case, ordered Invidia Catted Downpipe. Will be installing it this friday along with clutch damper delete.

TLDR: Ordered Invidia Catted Downpipe

Decided it might be time to add some power.

 

Called Brentuning. They suggested going downpipe + boost controller + dyno. Said will need to test the engine for reliability, may need new spark plugs, mf sensor. Total rough estimate is $2500 with dyno tune.

 

Decided to install downpipe at the local performance shop instead. Guy there said that I may need to upgrade fuel system for power gains. Then was almost talking me out of power mods unless I am ready to deal with engine problems. Said that even with modest power increases internal parts are known to fail (pistons/rods?). Clean, experienced shop, but was he just trying to see how committed I am? My car does have 130kmi. In any case, ordered Invidia Catted Downpipe. Will be installing it this friday along with clutch damper delete.

 

TLDR: Ordered Invidia Catted Downpipe

With a good tune you shouldn't have any problems, its when people start trying to learn how to tune on their own car while daily driving it that the issues really seem to arise. Or they try to find the cheapest tuner they can. Having said that, more power does mean more stress on the engine so you should expect accelerated bearing and piston wear along with more frequent oil changes becoming necessary 3k miles is the general recommendations.

You might also want to have an oil analysis done now and see what kind of health your engine is in now. I would also suggest a leakdown and compression test, better to do it now and know where you are starting at then to find out during tuning that the engine has issues.

If you want to keep it reliable, I would do a Cobb AP with OTS (Off The Shelf) map and follow the factory maintenance schedule with the shorter 3750 mile oil change intervals. The Cobb AP made a very noticeable difference compare to the other stock LGT I had test driven.

My LGT currently has 121k miles, I had it tuned at 108k miles. I ran the 93 oct Cobb AP since 93k miles. The prior 2 owners used the Cobb AP OTS tunes for most of my car life. Bren tuned my car, I have EBC, BPV, Invidia catback exhaust (stock downpipe & cat), & DW200 fuel pump, my car did 292whp/340ft-lbs of torque. However my did split the factory charge, when I brought it to the track. I sometimes worry about lifting the head gasket because my boost peaks at 18.5-19psi.

I bought a set of Rota center caps in my wheel color, steel gray. Needed replacements for my 2 front caps that disappeared on me.

Im kinda liking the clean look without the STI overlays, what do you guys think?

I'm kinda biased since I just got a set of STI centercaps a month or so ago.

With that being said, with the way your car is setup, I think the silver caps look better.

more power does mean more stress on the engine so you should expect accelerated bearing and piston wear along with more frequent oil changes

Brentuning is planning to do compression test. Oil changes is a good point. How soon do berings/pistons fail and how expensive is the fix?

Bren tuned my car, I have EBC, BPV, Invidia catback exhaust (stock downpipe & cat), & DW200 fuel pump

I have AP and I believe I am on Stage 1 right now. Noticeable difference.

I am doing Invidia catted downpipe. Would I need to go all the way to the back? Want to keep it quite as it is my daily ride. Also, is fuel pump upgrade a must?

I have AP and I believe I am on Stage 1 right now. Noticeable difference.

I am doing Invidia catted downpipe. Would I need to go all the way to the back? Want to keep it quite as it is my daily ride. Also, is fuel pump upgrade a must?

The catback is definitely not a requirement and I would imagine it would make the car much louder. I think Bren recommended the fuel pump due to mileage on my car. IIRC It was only about $100 anyways. It ended up being waste because someone had already installed DW 65c pump in my car.

I'm kinda biased since I just got a set of STI centercaps a month or so ago.

 

 

With that being said, with the way your car is setup, I think the silver caps look better.

yup, definitely like the silver better

Thanks guys! Yeah, will run with silver for now, easy to stick on overlays down the road if I want to.

Replaced the rear centercaps today, all silver now.

If you want to keep it reliable, I would do a Cobb AP with OTS (Off The Shelf) map and follow the factory maintenance schedule with the shorter 3750 mile oil change intervals. The Cobb AP made a very noticeable difference compare to the other stock LGT I had test driven.

 

My LGT currently has 121k miles, I had it tuned at 108k miles. I ran the 93 oct Cobb AP since 93k miles. The prior 2 owners used the Cobb AP OTS tunes for most of my car life. Bren tuned my car, I have EBC, BPV, Invidia catback exhaust (stock downpipe & cat), & DW200 fuel pump, my car did 292whp/340ft-lbs of torque. However my did split the factory charge, when I brought it to the track. I sometimes worry about lifting the head gasket because my boost peaks at 18.5-19psi.

I'd argue that a good custom tune is safer than the cobb OTS tune as long as that custom tune is made to run similar boost/power levels simply because it is tailored to that specific engine rather than made to cover a bunch of engines with various possible parts.

I'd argue that a good custom tune is safer than the cobb OTS tune as long as that custom tune is made to run similar boost/power levels simply because it is tailored to that specific engine rather than made to cover a bunch of engines with various possible parts.

It depends on the tuner. The Cobb AP OTS tune looked good when going through the datalogs in my LGT.

It depends on the tuner. The Cobb AP OTS tune looked good when going through the datalogs in my LGT.

well yea, obviously a bad custom tune would be worse than the OTS cobb tune, mine was safe on the OTS stage 1 tune but was fat as hell which has it's own concerns even if knock isn't one of them.

well yea, obviously a bad custom tune would be worse than the OTS cobb tune, mine was safe on the OTS stage 1 tune but was fat as hell which has it's own concerns even if knock isn't one of them.

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With these engines fat is happy. I ran an ots tune for well over a year without issues and dare I say it pulled harder on the highway IMO.

 

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Just my two cents. I’ve ran the Cobb OTS tune for just over two years now, no issues. Granted, I would like to get a custom tune, but it’s low down on the needs/wants list.

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