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wagon gate does not lock


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The lock on my 05 wagon gate stopped working - all other door locks work normally, either by the remote or via the lock switch on the driver's door.

 

I checked fuses 3 and 7, and also took the gate latch off, tested the actuator with a 12v power supply and it seems to work. When locking or unlocking, there's no sound from the actuator.

 

Harness problem? Locking module flaky? Couldn't find any posts about this problem.

 

Any input appreciated!

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  • 2 weeks later...
mine crapped out this past weekend im looking for a fix as well..

 

Finally got a chance to investigate further...found the problem, after checking wiring diagrams and then ripping apart part of the wagon's passenger side interior. One of the 2 wires (light green/yellow in my case) leading to the lock actuator was broken right off in the gate's right black rubber accordion wiring harness cover.

 

I will connect a new wire to lead from the gate, insert it into the rubber accordion, then down to the connector near the tail light, easy to solder/crimp near there.

 

Likely you have the same issue. I just took some pics and hope to post once I've completed the repair

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As per my previous posts, my wagon gate lock stopped working, eventually I traced the problem to a broken wire in the harness near the passenger side gate hinge. Also found 2 other wires in that harness about to break.

 

Quick how to:

 

1. pull out both ends of the rubber accordion around the harness, near the right hinge

2. pull gently on the 2 actuator wires (white/black, light green/yellow); a broken wire will easily pull out of the accordion.

3. Push a long object (I used a 12" tie wrap) through the accordion to use as a fish tape for the replacement wire. Then tape replacement wire to the object and pull it through. I left my tie wrap in place so I can easily fix the almost broken wires in the future.

4. Solder replacement wire to the original wire in the gate, then cut the bad wire about 2" above the connector near the tail light, and solder the other end of the replacement wire. Insulate both ends, I used heat shrink.

 

To get at the white connector near the tail light, you'll have to remove about 3 screws and 2 bolts from the interior side trim. Then pop off the C-pillar trim by first pulling out at the bottom then pushing up.

accordion.thumb.jpg.d1a2c74ff99e72d68fba07353cd7d592.jpg

1496951853_harnesssplice.thumb.jpg.3bfa031efa7b0cb91e5d95e6a5cd070a.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Same thing happened to me, thanks for posting this so we know where to go and inspect wiring. Right away, noticed two broken and several more cracked insulation at this point. Makes me wonder what other functions were missing from the rear deck. I think one was the gate open switch that turns on the rear luggage compartment light...

 

But really, it's random luck which wire busts. And it seems 5 to 6 years this is going to happen to a lot of cars. Just off warranty, of course.

 

The problem is wires are loose going through the rubber snorkel. They should be bundled and wrapped the whole way through. I think Subaru did this so the wires would lay flatter inside the snorkel. Or it could just be stupidity.

 

I fixed mine by chopping the WHOLE bundle where it enters the car. And added about 18" extenders to every wire, and bundled it up well... Four of the wires are hefty, guessing 16 to 18 AWG, the remaining look to be 20 to 22 AWG.

 

Now rear gate locking is working again. NOTE: it took one drive cycle to get the 2 x UNLOCK on the remote to also unlock the gate as well.

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  • 7 months later...

Bringing up an older post.

 

I have come across this issue on my car. The remote / door lock doesn't unlock.

 

I tried to do as mentioned (pull lightly on the wires) and see if anything comes loose...nothing did.

 

I then took the plug (with the yellow/green & white/black wire) out of the lock actuator. I noticed that if I placed a light in the green pin, and grounded the other end of my light. When I pressed the lock it had power. I came to the conclusion that it meant the white/black wire was not properly grounded and that that was the issue. I thus re-wired said wire into a nice grounding spot, but now i cannot get the system to unlock.

 

I looked at the maintenance manual and I fear that both those wires change between positive and negative depending on whether your locking or unlocking. I was hoping someone could confirm if I am understanding/reading it correctly. This will mean that i will need to chase down that stupid white/black wire and see where its disconnected/broken.

 

Any help would be welcomed :)

409867492_14-RearGateLatchAssembly.thumb.jpg.25c7b833819f37a255548623cc610ca5.jpg

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I had to replace my white plastic lock mechanism it's like $60.00 from the dealer.

 

Mine would lock but not unlock. I posted about it here May/June 2011.

 

FYI I also had my buddy's body shop fix a bunch of broken wires where the rubber grommet goes in the body at the top of the hatch. But that was not the problem with the lock.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 4 months later...

Before I start pulling wiring harnesses apart, I'm interested to see if my symptoms suggest an actuator / electric problem or a latch problem.

 

- The remote does not lock or unlock the tailgate. The other doors all work normally. I hear no clicking at the actuator when I use the remote.

- There's a two-position white lever that's part of the actuator for the lock. With the lever in the up (horizontal) position, the latch handle does not spring back properly when pulled, and if the tailgate is closed, it cannot be opened.

- with the white lever in the down position, the latch handle behaves normally, and can open the tailgate.

 

Does it make sense that an actuator issue, either due to lack of power or a failed actuator, would effect how the latch worked? Does the white lever essentially disconnect the actuator from the latch?

 

Thanks.

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Before I start pulling wiring harnesses apart, I'm interested to see if my symptoms suggest an actuator / electric problem or a latch problem.

 

- The remote does not lock or unlock the tailgate. The other doors all work normally. I hear no clicking at the actuator when I use the remote.

- There's a two-position white lever that's part of the actuator for the lock. With the lever in the up (horizontal) position, the latch handle does not spring back properly when pulled, and if the tailgate is closed, it cannot be opened.

- with the white lever in the down position, the latch handle behaves normally, and can open the tailgate.

 

Does it make sense that an actuator issue, either due to lack of power or a failed actuator, would effect how the latch worked? Does the white lever essentially disconnect the actuator from the latch?

 

Thanks.

 

I had a similar situation...never really followed up with this post.

 

What I did finally find out is that one wire was broken/disconected in the top RH accordion thing that covers the wire from the tailgate to the interior of the car. I simply cut, and replaced the cut end with a new wire and voila, the actuator worked just fine.

 

FYI, the lever is a manual override for lock / unlocking. If the actuator is working, than it too will move...

 

I think in your case (since neither option lock/unlocking) is working, I think either both wires are toast or your servo is jammed / broken.

 

Regards,

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I had a similar situation...never really followed up with this post.

 

What I did finally find out is that one wire was broken/disconected in the top RH accordion thing that covers the wire from the tailgate to the interior of the car. I simply cut, and replaced the cut end with a new wire and voila, the actuator worked just fine.

 

FYI, the lever is a manual override for lock / unlocking. If the actuator is working, than it too will move...

 

I think in your case (since neither option lock/unlocking) is working, I think either both wires are toast or your servo is jammed / broken.

 

Regards,

 

Guess it's time to start ringing out wires, then. I may have hastened the problem when I replaced my spoiler a couple of weeks ago, I didn't need to mess with that harness but did. That'll teach me.....

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Guess it's time to start ringing out wires, then. I may have hastened the problem when I replaced my spoiler a couple of weeks ago, I didn't need to mess with that harness but did. That'll teach me.....

 

The wires through the accordion are super duper little...I don't think it takes much to break them :mad:.

 

Anyways...good luck with your hunt!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fixed 3 broken wires, which restored tailgate latch and license plate operation, more failures coming. I think the next step is to replace the whole wiring harness.

 

Having learned the cheapest price for OE harness is $197 shipped (!), I'll be making my own harness when the time comes. Bad design / execution followed by exorbitant replacement parts. Ridiculous.

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  • 10 months later...
Fixed 3 broken wires, which restored tailgate latch and license plate operation, more failures coming. I think the next step is to replace the whole wiring harness.

 

Having learned the cheapest price for OE harness is $197 shipped (!), I'll be making my own harness when the time comes. Bad design / execution followed by exorbitant replacement parts. Ridiculous.

 

As per my previous posts, my wagon gate lock stopped working, eventually I traced the problem to a broken wire in the harness near the passenger side gate hinge. Also found 2 other wires in that harness about to break.

 

Quick how to:

 

1. pull out both ends of the rubber accordion around the harness, near the right hinge

2. pull gently on the 2 actuator wires (white/black, light green/yellow); a broken wire will easily pull out of the accordion.

3. Push a long object (I used a 12" tie wrap) through the accordion to use as a fish tape for the replacement wire. Then tape replacement wire to the object and pull it through. I left my tie wrap in place so I can easily fix the almost broken wires in the future.

4. Solder replacement wire to the original wire in the gate, then cut the bad wire about 2" above the connector near the tail light, and solder the other end of the replacement wire. Insulate both ends, I used heat shrink.

 

To get at the white connector near the tail light, you'll have to remove about 3 screws and 2 bolts from the interior side trim. Then pop off the C-pillar trim by first pulling out at the bottom then pushing up.

 

 

Huge thanks to the OP and for the notes thereafter. I created an account just so I could login and post my thanks. I have a RHD (Asia Pacific) Legacy B-Spec wagon and this happened about 2 months ago. The rear hatch would not lock from the key fob so I had my dealer take a look, they charged me $150 and got it (partially) working again but the reversing lights and rear wiper stopped and the car would now auto lock even if the rear hatch was open. It was doing this because it thought the rear hatch was shut. They then said they couldn't fix it but to take it to a auto electrician.

So after reading this thread I pulled out 3 more broken wires - 1 for the wiper, 1 for the reverse lights and 1 for the rear hatch lock logic - i.e. to tell the ECU it's either open or shut.

 

So with some wire and soldering iron - back in business. I do wonder though how long it will be until the others break?:lol:

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  • 1 year later...

OK so i am dealing with this right now, i was able to find the break by pulling on them both where disconnected (or I broke them Im not really sure :p)

 

My accordion has a little rubber piece that comes off it into the car body wiring wrap that keeps me from fully pulling it out so I will have to probably either cut that piece of rubber off or figure out how to get to it from the car interior. Once I get that sorted out I just need to run a new wire from the break to the other side. Pulling open my cars interior is gonna be a chore and a half that is for sure.

 

Guess I need to buy a soldiering gun or take it to someone who can.

 

I have never soldered anything automotive before, what size wire should I get and what type of solder?

 

How exactly did you guys do the soldering?

 

Did you have to remove the roof trim to get at the wires on the inside of the car?

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OK so i am dealing with this right now, i was able to find the break by pulling on them both where disconnected (or I broke them Im not really sure :p)

what size wire should I get and what type of solder?

How exactly did you guys do the soldering?

Did you have to remove the roof trim to get at the wires on the inside of the car?

 

All good questions, that I too am looking for an answer for.

This issue has come up again with my tailgate. The rear wiper motor (is not intermittent / stops when it wants), the tail gate signal to the ECO says its closed 100% of the time and the heater wire no longer works.

 

Seems like this is a common issue for wagons. I plan this summer to replace all the wires with new ones (just through the accordion sections). Figure, I would get slightly bigger gage wire than whats in there right now (which is like hair thin).

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OK, a year or two later, and of course the OTHER side (driver's side rear hatch) starts busting its wires.

 

Symptoms here were the rear defroster was doing a poor job (one ground wire busted).

And the radio FM lost reception (antenna connection busted).

 

The washer tube goes through this side. It was fine.

 

Same treatment of re-soldering wires. blah blah blah.. hours pass.. And everything is fine again.

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Figure, I would get slightly bigger gage wire than whats in there right now (which is like hair thin).

 

If you're doing this pro-actively, select MORE FLEXIBLE wires not necessarily bigger gauge. You typically gain flexibility with finer strands and more of them for a given AWG. Also the insulation is more rubbery versus plasticy. You might have more luck using "high temperature" or "appliance" type wires...

 

Test for more flexibility: cut a length, like 8 inches, hold one end with wire horizontal, waggle it a bit up and down. Does it droop and act like a whip (good) or stick straight out like a stiff ruler (bad).

 

Thicker gauge wires, especially if there are stiffer and have fewer strands, will bust again, and sooner!

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OK, a year or two later, and of course the OTHER side (driver's side rear hatch) starts busting its wires.

 

Symptoms here were the rear defroster was doing a poor job (one ground wire busted).

And the radio FM lost reception (antenna connection busted).

 

The washer tube goes through this side. It was fine.

 

Same treatment of re-soldering wires. blah blah blah.. hours pass.. And everything is fine again.

Well, thanks for the heads up on that one. Looks like i'll be working on that side (did passenger a few years ago).

 

If you're doing this pro-actively, select MORE FLEXIBLE wires not necessarily bigger gauge. You typically gain flexibility with finer strands and more of them for a given AWG. Also the insulation is more rubbery versus plasticy. You might have more luck using "high temperature" or "appliance" type wires...

 

Test for more flexibility: cut a length, like 8 inches, hold one end with wire horizontal, waggle it a bit up and down. Does it droop and act like a whip (good) or stick straight out like a stiff ruler (bad).

 

Thicker gauge wires, especially if there are stiffer and have fewer strands, will bust again, and sooner!

 

Good tip. Much appreciated :)

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  • 1 year later...

Just lost both headlights on 2006 Outback LTD. Blown 'Back UP' fuse #18.

Every time A/T gear shift passed through reverse, fuse 18 blows. Fuse 18 takes out the headlamp relays.

>> Bottom line, reading this and multiple threads, same problem with broken wires in the rear hatch wiring harness, exposed wires, shorting when power was sent to backup lights.

Have temporarily fixed that with UL tape.

But as others have reported, there are multiple (5) wires with cracked insulation in the passenger side accordion rubber boot sleeve between the body and the hatch.

It appears I have no license lights and the radio antenna pre-amplifier is not working.

Inside the driver's side rubber boot sleeve, the power wire to the rear defrost was broken, and the antenna wire coax insulation and shielding were shot.

Anybody here made a permanent repair? Better to buy a factory replacement harness - or make my own with higher quality wire?

I have so many cracked insulations, I have little confidence that a factory replacement will last?

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IMHO, you should take the time and make a harness of your own. The splicing repairs were a PIA because there is so little slack. The OE harness was close to $200 even at Fred Beans, and you could make your own for about 20% of that including connectors.

 

Only question is whether you can solve the problem with heavier gauge wire and still have it all fit through the boot ends.

 

Good luck.

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IMHO, you should take the time and make a harness of your own. The splicing repairs were a PIA because there is so little slack. The OE harness was close to $200 even at Fred Beans, and you could make your own for about 20% of that including connectors.

 

Only question is whether you can solve the problem with heavier gauge wire and still have it all fit through the boot ends.

 

Good luck.

 

100% agree with you. I did exactly that and the outcome (so far) has been a pass.

677992725_harness_photo4_FINAL.jpg.627285875ff511071806335e2f6f8dbb.jpg

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100% agree with you. I did exactly that and the outcome (so far) has been a pass.

 

The other point is that you only need to replace about 2' of wiring, not the whole harness. Connectors at each end of the new section etc, I'd buy an extra set of connectors so if your repair fails you don't need to re supply.

 

Someone made an interesting point earlier about more flexible being more important than heavier gauge, something to consider for sure.

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I've spoken to a number of locals who've had previous problems with cracking wire insulation since I posted. Consensus is that putting in a new factory wiring harness with the same brittle insulation as the original - will simply repeat the problem. And it will be just a gamble whether that is sooner rather than later.

 

Interesting suggestion: that the time to failure probably relates more closely to number of times the gate is opened/closed in sub-zero weather than the age of the wiring. (So, if we just quit going out to play in the snow, it won't be a problem.)

 

I think I've hit upon a more useful approach to a lasting repair, with a hell of a lot less work than replacing the entire harness.

 

The region of insulation-wire failure is within the 6 inches or so of wire between the door frame and the hatch - contained entirely inside the flexing 'boot'. The rest of the wiring harness is essentially immobile, and so, not subject to insulation cracking and wire breakage.

 

So, unless someone has a reason I shouldn't - I propose to replace ONLY that 6 inches of wiring harness.

 

I bought enough Arctic Blue UltraFlex to splice 10-12" of wire right into the boot, enough to extend the UltraFlex wire an inch or two inside the body of the door frame and hatch. Heat-shrink butt connectors. Shove the brittle insulation wires inside the body where they don't bend, and the repair is done.

 

I'll need to make sure that the brittle wire can not 'migrate' back into the flexing boot area - I would think that this would be similar to the way the factory immobilized the boot on the wiring harness with the rubber tab.

 

I will wrap all of the loose 'brittle' old wires with enough UL tape that they cannot individually move & flex.

 

This should not require removing ANY of the interior trim to access the plugs needed to replace the entire harness. A 2-4 hour wiring harness replacement job should take under 30 minutes. And the cost will be under $20 in materials.

 

- So, one last question: There are two identical colored (black/gray) wires in the harness. Both of my black insulation/gray band/stripe wires are completely broken inside the boot, fairly close together. Has anybody seen a wiring diagram (is it in one of the service manuals?) - are these both grounds? (I can confirm with a multi-meter when I do the repair.)

 

The break leaves both wires nearly the same length: My confidence in reconnecting the correct ends is less than 100%.

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