Vbelt tensioner replacement

Hello,

 

I want to replace the Vbelt tensioner (and vbelt/idler pully) and have two questions.

 

1) I have a decent torque wrench, and I checked that it's accurate (using a luggage scale). I assume this will be accurate enough when tightening the tensioner bolts (and the idler pully bolts, which I'm also replacing) according to Subaru's torque specs?

 

2) The upper radiator hose is basically in the way of the tensioner bolts, but I can get my ratchet and torque wrench on them if I basically shove the hose out of the way a good inch or so. I presume there is no harm in doing this?

 

Is there an easier way to get to the tensioner bolts?! The vbelt and idler pully are very easy to replace and get to, on the other hand.

 

Thanks!

Josh

Where are you located? The US Legacy has a serpentine belt.

Non-US GT here, we have multigroove serpentine belts also.

 

OP probably just generically refering to the drive belt as a V-belt.

 

#1 sounds fine, #2, well...I'd investigate a bit. I'd be worried about putting too much pressure on the plastic radiator neck.

V belt, serpentine belt, drive belt all the same. Once had a strut mount called a "bumper bound" per the manufacturer...

 

Tensioner bolts are tricky, I was able to replace without removing the hose. There was some contact, just be very careful.

 

Spent a good time trying to finding the right set of extensions/socket length. What worked for the right bolt did not work for the left. I skipped the torque wrench, probably due to space constraints. Find out what spec is and go from there. Just dont crank it down and break a bolt, big trouble if that happens.

 

Another tip, since you can't see the left bolt. Remove the right one first. Try to find the left one with you hand and start to back it off, if the tensioner is still tight but there's a gap, wrong bolt. Ask me how I know, haha.

 

Putting it back in, start with the left bolt already through the tensioner and get it started, but keep it loose. Then get the right one started. Go back and tighten the left bolt.

 

Posted all of this assuming it's a GT. Unsure if non turbo models are the same...

 

Have a 3.6, this is probably useless

Edited April 6, 2020 by MarcoLGT

Isn't there a nut on one of these bolts that falls into oblivion if you don't use a papertowel/rag something jamed behind bracket to keep from dropping out?

Isn't there a nut on one of these bolts that falls into oblivion if you don't use a papertowel/rag something jamed behind bracket to keep from dropping out?

 

I really can't recall, did it too long ago. Like last year, haha

Thanks for the replies. It's a 2012 Legacy 2.5i, and yea sorry I meant the serpentine belt (the service manual calls it a V-Belt.)

 

You can't see the left bolt, but I was able to stick my head in there after taking out the air intake and have a good feel for where it is. Then again, I still have trouble changing out headlights blind in my Subaru (particularly getting the dust cap on right)...

 

As for "just be very careful," I'm not sure how careful I can be, in the sense that I have to push the radiator hose out of the way to get to the bolts. I mean I can do this slowly and push the hose with my extension just enough to get to the bolts... Is that what is meant by "do this carefully?" Is this what shops do?

 

 

Edited April 4, 2020 by ji126652

Thanks for the replies. It's a 2012 Legacy 2.5i, and yea sorry I meant the serpentine belt (the service manual calls it a V-Belt.)

 

You can't see the left bolt, but I was able to stick my head in there after taking out the air intake and have a good feel for where it is. Then again, I still have trouble changing out headlights blind in my Subaru (particularly getting the dust cap on right)...

 

As for "just be very careful," I'm not sure how careful I can be, in the sense that I have to push the radiator hose out of the way to get to the bolts. I mean I can do this slowly and push the hose with my extension just enough to get to the bolts... Is that what is meant by "do this carefully?" Is this what shops do?

 

 

 

Looks the same to me.

 

I'm not a tech but had access to a techs tools, and having the right tools can make a world of difference. Think I used a swivel head kinked ratchet. So there was room for movement in the ratchet when tightening.

 

Last thing I want you to do is break something.

 

Could try pulling the radiator fan and getting more extensions to clear the hose. Thinks it's the 2 nuts up top and the connector on the bottom.

 

Headlight bulbs without removing the bumper are a pain. Did one in a hurry before going out of town. Definitely faster though.

Edited April 5, 2020 by MarcoLGT

I think the only parts that could be dropped are the idler puller parts. The tensioner bolts do not have nuts or spacers that can be dropped. The service manual show is being done without removing the radiator hose. I removed mine with the radiator hoses removed as bigger job, I don't remember anything particular difficult.

 

Your right about the service manual calling it a vbelt.

Removing the fan(s) would definitely be a good call- like MarcoLGT said, it's 2 10mm nuts up top, an electrical connector, then tip/lift/wiggle/jiggle until it comes out. Buys you another 1.5-2" of clearance (and could save you from potato-peeling a chunk of skin off the back of your hand, ask me how I know that one...), although you might want to put a sheet of cardboard or something in there to protect the radiator from accidental bumps.

Removing the fan(s) would definitely be a good call- like MarcoLGT said, it's 2 10mm nuts up top, an electrical connector, then tip/lift/wiggle/jiggle until it comes out. Buys you another 1.5-2" of clearance (and could save you from potato-peeling a chunk of skin off the back of your hand, ask me how I know that one...), although you might want to put a sheet of cardboard or something in there to protect the radiator from accidental bumps.

 

Dumb question, but I don't see how it's even possible to peel off a chunk of skin since the fan is plastic and obviously not running. I guess it is still quite sharp? I'm not asking just because, nor am I questioning taking out the radiator fan (which I'll do if my extensions don't fit well since it is rather easy), but I'm asking mainly to avoid doing it myself!

Very sharp plastic edges, it'll happen. Caught myself upgrading the BOV.

Same here, actually. I was pulling on the vacuum line on the top of the BOV (and it was on there good), and it caught me off guard when it finally let go. Pretty sure I caught the edge of the frame and not the fan itself, but having that extra 1.5-2" inches of clearance would have been nice...

Black frame was my culprit. Do it once and ya learn real quick not to do it again. Just pull it, so easy.

 

Keep an eye on the plastic tabs that hold the back nut piece in. It's part of the frame. One of mine was weak and going to break. Luckily I was pulling the radiator anyway, just left it attached (I was doing a different repair all together)