Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

Well my valve cover gasket on the passenger side is leaking and the oil is smoking off the up pipe so it's time to get those replaced. I'm planning to do the driver side as well as the spark plugs all at once since I'm already in there and a few shops recommended doing so. At this point, here is the part list:

Right Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA190

Left Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA140

Half Moon Gaskets:: 13293AA051 (x4)

Spark Plug Gaskets:11051AA070 (x4)

Spark Plugs: 22401AA670 (x4)

Given the car has 100k miles on it I have been told I should replace the crank case breather hose as well while I am in there, is that true? And also is there any other parts I should order as preventative maintenance to switch out while doing the valve covers?

You should replace the PCV about every 40k miles, if you haven't replaced yet, this is a good time.

Tip: Driver side valve is a little more challenging. You'll need to disconnect both engine mounts underneath and raise the motor up a few inches to gain access to the rear bolts and to pull the cover off.

Well my valve cover gasket on the passenger side is leaking and the oil is smoking off the up pipe so it's time to get those replaced. I'm planning to do the driver side as well as the spark plugs all at once since I'm already in there and a few shops recommended doing so. At this point, here is the part list:

 

Right Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA190

Left Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA140

Half Moon Gaskets:: 13293AA051 (x4)

Spark Plug Gaskets:11051AA070 (x4)

Spark Plugs: 22401AA670 (x4)

 

Given the car has 100k miles on it I have been told I should replace the crank case breather hose as well while I am in there, is that true? And also is there any other parts I should order as preventative maintenance to switch out while doing the valve covers?

you'll know if the breather has to go if you cant pry it off without breaking it

You should replace the PCV about every 40k miles, if you haven't replaced yet, this is a good time.

 

Tip: Driver side valve is a little more challenging. You'll need to disconnect both engine mounts underneath and raise the motor up a few inches to gain access to the rear bolts and to pull the cover off.

Alright, I have owned the car for 30k miles and haven't done it in that time but don't know how recently it was done by the previous owner so I think I'll do it just to be safe. Is it just part 12 in this diagram?

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_38/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_2/

And yeah, I know the driver side makes it a bit more difficult. Hopefully it's not too bad.

you'll know if the breather has to go if you cant pry it off without breaking it

Haha well I'll be ordering one so I don't end up with my engine out and a broken breather hose. Do you by chance know the part number?

Alright, I have owned the car for 30k miles and haven't done it in that time but don't know how recently it was done by the previous owner so I think I'll do it just to be safe. Is it just part 12 in this diagram?

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_38/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_2/

 

/QUOTE]

 

Yes that is the pcv assembly. It's a pita to replace, but needs to be done.

Add Permatex The Right Stuff gasket sealant.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-detail

Add Permatex The Right Stuff gasket sealant.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-detail

Thanks, I've heard that from a few people so I'll definitely be using it!

Just in case you don't have these,

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

05 GT's start around page 1604.

Bump. Can anyone help me identify the crank case breather house part number?

Edit: I'm an idiot and after a little research realized that the PCV is the positive crankcase valve, which I'm assuming now is the hose many of you are referring to getting dried up and hard to remove. In which case I already identified the part number a few post prior. Can someone verify I am on the right track here?

I can't really answer that question, but here's a video that might be helpful on replacing the pcv on the GT's.

Post #169

From the thread below.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/pcv-valve-replacement-95003.html

Bump. Can anyone help me identify the crank case breather house part number?

 

Edit: I'm an idiot and after a little research realized that the PCV is the positive crankcase valve, which I'm assuming now is the hose many of you are referring to getting dried up and hard to remove. In which case I already identified the part number a few post prior. Can someone verify I am on the right track here?

Hey there,

The PCV system is a bit confusing when you first look at it. There is a PCV assembly that sits on top of short block, under the TMIC. This assembly contains the actual valve. There are also two crossover pipes as well that connect the rocker covers together as well as picking up a connection to the top of the short block. I made these diagrams to help me figure it all out. The opposed forces site is a great place to find the part numbers but you have to be a little careful because parts vary by model year and VIN. I made these diagrams strictly for my car - MY 2005. Hope these help. Cheers!

Edit: Note that the same steel coolant/PCV crossover tube is shown in two of these pictures. Some of the hoses are shown on one diagram and the other hoses are shown on the other diagram, but it is the same steel crossover pipe assembly. Also, all of the hoses that connected to the rocker covers were hard as rocks when I replaced them at 118,000 miles. Two of them actually broke in half as I removed them. The ones on the passenger side were the worst. The little fat one that connects the steel crossover pipe to the top of the block was also pretty rock hard. I've ended up replacing every hose and most gaskets/O-rings on the engine. Many of the O-rings ended up deformed and pretty hard as well. I finally have a leak free engine.

Hey there,

The PCV system is a bit confusing when you first look at it. There is a PCV assembly that sits on top of short block, under the TMIC. This assembly contains the actual valve. There are also two crossover pipes as well that connect the rocker covers together as well as picking up a connection to the top of the short block. I made these diagrams to help me figure it all out. The opposed forces site is a great place to find the part numbers but you have to be a little careful because parts vary by model year and VIN. I made these diagrams strictly for my car - MY 2005. Hope these help. Cheers!

 

Edit: Note that the same steel coolant/PCV crossover tube is shown in two of these pictures. Some of the hoses are shown on one diagram and the other hoses are shown on the other diagram, but it is the same steel crossover pipe assembly. Also, all of the hoses that connected to the rocker covers were hard as rocks when I replaced them at 118,000 miles. Two of them actually broke in half as I removed them. The ones on the passenger side were the worst. The little fat one that connects the steel crossover pipe to the top of the block was also pretty rock hard. I've ended up replacing every hose and most gaskets/O-rings on the engine. Many of the O-rings ended up deformed and pretty hard as well. I finally have a leak free engine.

Thank you, this helps VERY much! So now that I have all the part numbers, given that I am at 100k miles and also planning to go stage 3 with upgrade fueling in the near future, which of these should I replace? At this point from what I have gathered here I should replace most of the components related to the PCV system.

I'm about to place a part order, should i plan on doing all of these:

99071AC240

11852AA090

99071AC010

99071AC260

11815AB790

99071AC220

99071AC230

Essentially all the parts listed in the three diagram. Would you guys agree?

I would just do the PCV. When I installed the ej257 I shook my PCV and it rattled so I'm still using it.

close to 219K on that part. I do drive long distances so that might be the difference.

Like Max says above, some cars do better than others. The PCV valve assembly is a maintenance item that should be replaced if it has not been by now at your mileage. I wouldn't bother with the metal or plastic crossover tubes unless they are actually damaged. Give a good squeeze to the rubber hoses listed (basically all of the 99 series part numbers). If they are rock hard, it doesn't hurt to replace them at your mileage.

The other thing to note is that some people just use generic breather hose from an auto parts store to replace these. That is definitely a cheaper way to go. You'll find that the cost really adds up when buying these OEM pieces. I bought all OEM but didn't need to.

Or if you really want to get fancy....

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/venair-ancillary-hose-kit-group-buy-3-options-3-colors-221557.html

Like Max says above, some cars do better than others. The PCV valve assembly is a maintenance item that should be replaced if it has not been by now at your mileage. I wouldn't bother with the metal or plastic crossover tubes unless they are actually damaged. Give a good squeeze to the rubber hoses listed (basically all of the 99 series part numbers). If they are rock hard, it doesn't hurt to replace them at your mileage.

 

The other thing to note is that some people just use generic breather hose from an auto parts store to replace these. That is definitely a cheaper way to go. You'll find that the cost really adds up when buying these OEM pieces. I bought all OEM but didn't need to.

Alright well I'll plan on doing just the PCV valve assembly. To clarify when you guys says PCV assembly, you're only referring parts 11 and 12 in the diagram?

I can't view the pictures here at work. but just the PCV itself.

I wonder if the Auto Parts stores have them yet ?