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I think my turbo blew in Topeka KS


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Update because I hate finding unanswered threads:

 

Dealer said there is rod knock. Wants to replace everything (engine) at a measly $11k. Getting to transported home and will go from there. There is metal in the oil so likely blown turbo and blown bearings in the engine from contamination.

 

Going to hang out here in Topeka until the shop can look at it. I'll update with the final answer in case someone finds this in the future.

 

So I just bought an 08 OBXT 5MT in North Carolina and am driving it home to SLC utah and I think I blew the turbo outside Topeka KS. It makes this horrible rattling noise at around 2k rpm and does it whether it is in gear or not and it also feels like the power dropped out. The dealer is closed until Monday it looks like. I didn't drive it more than the time it took to slow down so I hope the engine is OK.

 

 

 

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Don’t run it if the turbo failed catastrophically there’s a chance of it damaging the motor....check for loose items or heat shields, disconnected wiring harnesses or boost lines. Check your oil level, check your coolant (once it cools), check all your drive pulleys....I’ve heard of a bad idler pulley fail and going into the timing case cover and take out a timing belt before.

 

 

Hopefully it’s something simple

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Hey again outblack.

 

I couldn't have gone more than a few hundred feet from failure. It's been towed to the dealer. Oil is still good, I had just put in half a quart about 80 miles before. Haven't checked coolant. Turbo heat shield and anything else I could see looked solid. I'll check all the pulleys. It's not the crank pulley or at least that looks like it's OK still.

 

I'm hoping it's something simple, that'd be great. Or if it's the turbo it's not the engine. Also that banjo bolt is coming off once it gets torn in to just in case. That and shrapnel seem to be the main causes of repeat failures.

 

I had been driving for about 4 hours today and took my first hard pull from a stop when leaving the toll booth. I'm guessing that's what did it. But there was no weirdness right after and it was still making boost then (what I assume is being in boost having never had a turbo before. That breathing kick in the pants feel when you start giving it throttle) and I think I made it five miles past there.

 

Unfortunately I absolutely LOVE this car. So it's getting repaired one way or another. And sunk cost fallacy. I just dropped 8.5k can't lose it.

 

 

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It’s possible a boost line came off or a bad leak....when I first bought my outback it was running great no issue then I boosted it hard uphill on the way home and it started bucking badly and cel started flashing, threw a misfire code. It was a real aw shit moment but it was the seal between the turbo and top mount that was bad. The turbo has threads on it and it’s an aluminum housing so they strip very easily, I was able to turn the bolts by hand. I got it tightened up with longer bolts and nuts on the other side then everything was fine.
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Well something like that would be fantastic. It might even be fixed on Monday then. I sure hope so.

 

I was looking around trying to get an idea on prices cuz I'm bored in the parking lot and was reading a thread where someone mentioned they had a whine from their turbo and hadn't checked yet but thought it needed replacing.

 

I would say there is a noise I've been hearing while cruising around 80. Really quiet. Gets louder/higher pitch with more throttle. I'd describe it as a humming bird screaming into a desk fan. This like high pitch noise with buffeting. But I just thought that was the noise turbos made [emoji43] maybe it was telling me this whole time it was dying.

 

 

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Oh bummer man that sounds like the song of turbine death. One quick way to tell is remove intercooler and check the oil film in throttle body outlet for metal sparkles...

 

I truly you hope you avoided engine damage. I caught my turbo fail in my LGT and immediately stopped the motor, rolled off the road, and towed it home. Several oil flushes and all seems well so far...

 

All the best!

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Well the tech started the car, said it sounds like rod knock, and they haven't checked anything yet other than starting the car and are getting quotes for an engine rebuild or long block replacement.

 

Even if that's what it actually needs, idk that I want to do that 1000 miles from home. Also no idea what that entails. Not sure if it would be better to transport it home and have a local shop do this.

 

 

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Yea that's my thoughts. Would rod knock cause you to lose boost? I'm waiting for an actual diagnosis to decide what to do. I don't have the experience or skill to do an engine rebuild on my own as is but at least if I get it home I can do more than just take it to the one place nearby.

 

 

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Also would it be better to rebuild or replace the block? I want to keep the vehicle for a while so if the engine is coming out I'd rather do what's best for longevity. I have no intention of trying to run more power through the vehicle so I don't think I'd need different pistons or anything.

 

Probably get the lightweight crank pulley put on at the same time though.

 

 

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Would rod knock cause you to lose boost?

 

Turbo blew and sent bearing material through the engine, which is what caused your rod knock.

 

Unfortunately with used 4th Gen GT and OBXT, blowing turbo & motor shortly after purchase is a pretty common issue. It is very likely the previous owner knew the turbo was going (or just replaced the turbo) and sold it off to pass the buck on the repair bill.

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Turbo blew and sent bearing material through the engine, which is what caused your rod knock.

 

 

Ah OK yea that makes sense.

 

Was the turbo replaced on this car recently?

 

 

No it's the original turbo. 154k on it at this moment.

 

Well I'm still waiting to see what the word is but I'm guessing it's likely that I'll be renting a truck and trailer.

 

 

 

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See my click here link for doing a new ej257 short block.

 

You'll need to have the oil pan cleaned

oil pump replaced

oil cooler replaced

all oil lines cleaned by a good machine shop that will rebuild your heads.

 

The Dealer most likely will not replace all those parts.

 

 

I have over 120,000 trouble free miles on the ej257.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I"m truly sorry for you. Some asshole blew the turbo on that car before and replaced it and immediately traded it in. We see this all the time and it sucks. I put up a thread about ethics when it comes to trading in cars, and unfortunately, there are a lot more out there that don't give a crap about anyone and they do that rather than fix the car.

 

Just noticed you said it was the OE turbo at 154K and most likely what the PO did was find a used turbo to put on so it looks like the OE. A LOT of that goes on. Again, sorry for you. Certainly can give you a bad taste regarding Subarus, but know one thing that when you have it right, you'll not beat these cars for bang for the buck.

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Yea I think that's possible. I'm technically fourth owner (not that it's even registered yet [emoji24]) PO got it at 120k ish. Seemed like a good guy, but who knows.

 

The shop "drained some oil and there was metal in it and you can hear rod knock" they quoted me a used 108k engine "but I don't know what parts it comes with" for $4700 or an engine rebuild for $10900. The engine rebuild sounds like they are replacing everything with just new parts, which idk I thought rebuilds usually had machining and using the old heads and block.

 

Either way those aren't happening. I've worked with lkq engines in the past as an insurance writer. I'd want that rebuilt anyway. Gonna get a transport and get it home.

 

I kept saying I wanted to try rebuilding and engine. Just thought I'd start with my old civic. Not a car that I owe 10k on.

 

 

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I guess though I can always go the route now of maybe one is the rebuilt turbos and other stuff so hopefully in the end it's a good thing.

 

Honestly the car is great. I love the half doors. I love the wagon. The first manual I drove was an 86 gl and I live in utah and spend time in the desert and snow and mountains. I know enough to not blame Subaru for this. The blown turbo issues sure but not this specific experience.

 

 

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Ah that makes more sense. I'd go OE short block unless you luck out and can find a car to part out.

 

For what it's worth, the motor comes out easy, with the hardest part in my experience being splitting the motor from the trans. Took me about 6 hours to get it out the first time I did it.

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You can give your motor to a reputable builder and get it done right for 4-5k....if you’re going to run modest power I’d just get an oem rebuild. I think 4032 high silicon pistons are the perfect middle ground you can get tight PTW clearances and have a superior to oem piston. If you think you’re going to get the itch for more power just get some 2618 pistons, the factory rods are pretty stout, get a good bearing kit and you have a great setup.
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When you say give the engine to a reputable builder, do you mean give the car and that's what you'd expect all in? Or are most people on here pulling the engine themselves and then it's 4-5k from there?

 

 

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Rates vary, different businesses have different overhead. That being said my builder asks 4000ish all in for an aftermarket piston/oem rods reconditioned new bearings build with refreshed heads and all machine work/gaskets fluids labor and install. When you said 10k for oem build I cringed a little.
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OK yea. I get that rates very for shop and location. I need to get the quote from them but like I said, I'm pretty sure they were just buying all new parts and assembling it. But the quote was so high I started thinking the 5k I had in my head was doing all the work yourself.

 

I'm going through the turbo failure threads now and going to start reading the engine rebuild threads. Once I get it home and can say this is what's wrong I can shop around for pricing.

 

 

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