Stanthesubieman's Build

I've been telling myself I should make a blog or post of my progress as I continue to build my Legacy. Finally with all the quarantine and stuff, what better time than now to finally sit down and write some stuff down. Hope you enjoy!

More can be seen on my personal/car life page: www.instagram.com/stanthesubieman

Base Vehicle:

2010 Legacy 2.5GT Limited (Bought used in 2013 with ~69,000 Miles)

Current -

Engine/Driveability Mods:

-Manley Piston & Rods

-AEM Filter Replacement

-Invidia Q300 CBE

-AutoArt Brake Master Cylinder Brace

-Perrin Brass Shifter Bushing

-Boomba 2015+ Short Shift Weight Adapter Plate

-Clutch Damper Delete

Wheels & Suspension:

-Volk Racing TE37RT 18x10 + 44 (with 5mm spacers) Mag Blue

-Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 265/35/18

-RSR Sports*I coilovers 6kF/6kR

-Cusco 22mm Rear Sway Bar for 2015 VA Sti

-Kartboy Rear Sway Bar Endlinks

-SPC Rear Lower Control Arm

-Cusco Rear Sway Bar Brace for VA STI

-Cusco Rear Power Brace for BM9

-Gramlights 57DR 18x9.5 +38 Mag Blue

-SS595 365/35/18

-Michelin Pilot Sports A/S 3+ 265/35/18>Lovely All Seasons, lasted a very long time with track duty

*-STi 19mm Rear Sway Bar* Removed

-Megan Racing Prototype Front Strut Tower Bar

Exterior Mods:

-Custom WRX Front bumper

-JDM Power Folding + Turn Signal side mirrors

-Battle Aero Chassis Mount Front Splitter for GR WRX

-PSM Dynamics BMW F80 V1 Trunk Lip

-OEM Window Visor

-Anzo U-Bar headlights with Custom Amber routing and TRS Morimoto D1S 5.0 Retrofit

-K2Gear Eyelids

-JDM BM9 Legacy STi side skirt extension

-Rowen BM9 RR Bumper - Modded to fit USDM Body

-Racebred Components Front Tire Spat

-S-Craft Rear Half Bumper

-Ikon Motorsports V-Limited Lip for WRX

*- Ikon Motorsports V6 Lip for WRX*

Interior Mods:

-STi Aluminum/Leather Shift Knob

-Liberal Aero Blue and Black Carbon Cluster Overlay

-LED Lighting replacement

Started:

2013-2014: I bought he car with the Q300, tint, Eibach Lowering Springs, and window visors. I mainly drove the car as is from the day I bought the car. I tried to retrofit a WRX lip onto the car with some success, and it survived a year or so. Afterwards I just bought a legacy lip for the car.

2014-2015: I was working for a Rally Innovations prototyping some parts for the Legacy. Some of those are in production, and others not. This included the light bar as well as a 3 piece splitter.

2015-2016: After taking the car to the track, I felt the need to tighten up the suspension. I did not want to sacrifice daily driving and wanted something that can handle spirited driving and DD abuse. I ended up getting RSR Sports i coilovers. During this time I added the STI Rear Sway Bar, Perrin Shift Bushing, Boomba Shift Adapter Plate.

As some may have noticed. The bumper is a custom bumper that I made. I basically cut the bumper in half and plastic welded it back together. I have attached my full album but some wips below:

http://imgur.com/gallery/GMxewPA

First!

Cool you got to work with Rally Innovations developing parts for our cars, what stuff did you guys look into?

First!

 

Cool you got to work with Rally Innovations developing parts for our cars, what stuff did you guys look into?

Was really looking into light bars, front splitter, fog lights, and started looking at skit plates; but didn't get very far by the time I left.

Edit:

While we are on lockdown. Decided to complete some pending projects.

First up is JDM side mirrors. I just mounted them up and repinned for heat and mirror tilt. Still need to repin/make a harness for power folding and turn signals.

More random projects during these quarantine times... J's Racing Rep Diffuser for S2000. Needs a lot of trimming and trimming.

Started working on the wiring for the JDM mirrors. After talking to Patrick and Sam over on the Fifth Gen Legacy FB page, I think I have a better understanding on wiring up the power folding. We shall see, but so far here is how I was able to add the wires for both turn signal and power folding.

I took apart the door panel (2 bolts), and removed the wiring loom from the door as seen below. It was not that difficult to do (unplug harness, remove the grommet from the sheet metal, there's a plastic locking cap on the fender side that needs to be removed with 3 prongs, then snake the whole wiring loom out the door). I ended up t-tapping into the turn signal wires in the foot well, and grounded to the chassis. Pictures to follow.

Per Sam Wong: Wiring harness is as followed

White -passenger lamp positive | driver lamp negative

Green - passenger lamp negative | driver lamp positive

Black/black - heater (defrost)

Brown/Grey - fold in/out (switch polarity)

Brown - close positive

Grey - open positive

Blue - mirror (switch polarity between either purple or red)

Purple - negative down - positive up

Red - negative right - positive left

Edit: Figured which wires to tap into with images below for turn signals.

Driver Side: Solid Blue for Positive (+); ground to chassis

Passenger: Red with Green Stripe Wire for Positive (+); ground to chassis

Testing the JDM switch function for the power folding unit. It indeed switches polarity upon pressing the button in/out. Depending if the module is similar to the fog switch, we can verify the use of the fog switch.

From this configuration, the connectors are as follows:

Solid Yellow: 12V positive (from the car)

Solid Black: ground (from the car)

Solid Blue(+) / Solid White(-): paired together with the button (out position) would mean the mirrors have a constant power for open.

Blue with Red Line (+) / Black with White line (-): paired together with the button (out position) would mean the mirrors have a constant power for open.

Note:

1) the black with white wire above/next to the white is the only one that works. The black/white wire adjacent to the car ground wire is probably used for the mirrors.

2) the white and black/white wires are technically interchangeable. I got the same results switching between the two.

3) Patrick mentioned a green wire in the fog module that caused his dash to light up. You will need to trim/cut it so that it doesn't trip. I need to look at the USDM fog to determine which wire he mentioned.

Hope this helps for anyone wanting to do power folding.

Got the Power Folding Modules installed!

I kept the original Fog Light Accessory Button.

IMPORTANT!: Make sure the fog lights are off (open position) if you want to relocate the fog light switch to the turn signal stalk.

Also, this is by no means a walk through and more of my process and journal. I am not responsible if something happens to your car. Make sure you measure with a multi-meter before connecting anything.

The factory Harness that plugs into the Mirror adjustment and Fog Accessory plug.

Depin the Fog Light wire (Green + Red) [Follow the important note at the beginning. Make sure the Fog is turned off if you want to relocate the fog light switch!]

As you can see, I am testing the switch. It is identical to the JDM plugs in terms of operation. The polarity switches upon on/off positions of the switch.

This is what the completed Harness looks like. My Positive Lines are soldered to the Blue and Blue/White wires. The Negative lines are soldered to the Solid White and Black/White wires per the previous post.

I ended up taking the lower driver dash off so that I could route the wires along the following red lines. Take the center console bezel out also makes it easy to bridge the wires across.

Tested everything out and it all works!

Congrats on getting it all working!

I have power folding OE and dont use it because I am afraid of getting floppy mirrors lol!

Havent heard of durability problems with Subaru power folding mirrors though, just soured from my experience with other cars.

It's been a minute, but picked up factory Ts side skirt extension for the Legacy as well as an HKS Legamax (however, it's for the FB).. might install to see how it sounds but not sure I'm willing to go down to 2.5" exhaust compared to the Invidia 3"

Grabbed some goodies to get some better handling characteristics. Though... having 160k, I should start to look at the bushing :/

Here's the car with the TS side skirts that I picked up. Had to fill some scratches and recoat them black.

I'd suggest doing the bushings amd other PM stuff first! Having had to do top hats and now motor/tranny mounts, its such a big difference! Car feels half it's age now. i think you will appreciate all those goodies more putting them on when your car is in top condition.

You and Humble got all the good Cusco stuff! The only Cusco I have is the rear swaybar

I'd suggest doing the bushings amd other PM stuff first! Having had to do top hats and now motor/tranny mounts, its such a big difference! Car feels half it's age now. i think you will appreciate all those goodies more putting them on when your car is in top condition.

 

You and Humble got all the good Cusco stuff! The only Cusco I have is the rear swaybar

I'll definitely put that on hold then, and start looking at the bushing/mounts. Thanks!

The itch to install these got too great.... Looking into the JDM aluminum front arms and to upgrade the bushings.

Nice!

What is that rear CF under the spare tire well, a skid plate? I dont see it in your mods list.

Nice!

 

What is that rear CF under the spare tire well, a skid plate? I dont see it in your mods list.

Good catch! Its actually a custom CF diffuser that was originally for an Evo X that I got from my old company and extended it to fit the legacy rear.

The itch to install these got too great.... Looking into the JDM aluminum front arms and to upgrade the bushings.

Just an FYI on the aluminum front arms. They are narrower than the NA arms. Humble installed them and found that out. He ended up using wheel spacers to get back to where he was before.

DONNNNNNNNN'T DO THE ALUMINUM ARMS, THEY'VE MADE FITMENT A NIGHTMARE.

The JDM cars are 20mm less track width than USDM, so you'll be +10 offset both sides in the FRONT ONLY if you do them. You'll either have to run more aggressive offset in the front, or 10mm spacers in the front to get everything square again. Just do new standard USDM arms with upgraded SuperPro bushings and you'll be much better off.

I had a feeling Humble would be drawn in to comment. Like a moth to a flame. [emoji6]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good catch! Its actually a custom CF diffuser that was originally for an Evo X that I got from my old company and extended it to fit the legacy rear.

Huh, Cool!

Just an FYI on the aluminum front arms. They are narrower than the NA arms. Humble installed them and found that out. He ended up using wheel spacers to get back to where he was before.

Falcor/Humble, thanks for the info!

I wonder why the track difference?

Good question. I believe that when a JDM front end conversion is done you need the fenders as well. I think the flare/bulge of the wheel well is different between JDM and NA cars.

It’s the little differences that have you scratching your head. Like some versions don’t have folding rear seats, they just have a pass through.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JDM cars have narrower fenders.

USDM

JDM

Yeah, that's a head scratcher! I mean, I would understand a different bumper for NHTSA stuff, but why go through the trouble of different track?

Now I'm wondering about the rear. I got Whiteline rear arms to fix my camber after lowering with coilovers. Are these Whitelines that are speced for the US Legacies, wider? They look and fit fine but are they actually 10mm wider like the fronts?