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Should I replace the whole timing belt, if only the tensioner is faulty?


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How old is the belt?

 

My concern would be stripping out the tensioner bolt hole as he mentions in the video below, if the tensioner is still good enough to be providing tension.

 

Order of removing idlers, least tension first

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How old is the belt?

 

My concern would be stripping out the tensioner bolt hole as he mentions in the video below, if the tensioner is still good enough to be providing tension.

 

Order of removing idlers, least tension first

 

75k km on it

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75k km on it

 

Age is the most important thing really, not mileage. Rubber cracks and fails. Check out your 10+ year old suspension bushings if you'd like and you'll see what I mean.

 

I'd replace it. Belts aren't that expensive.

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Or can I replace the tensioner without messing with the belt and timing?

 

I just replaced the belt, pulleys, and tensioners on my 2010 LGT. This was my first and only time doing it, but I am not sure that I would have been able to just replace the tensioner without screwing-up the placement of the belt on the cam pulleys. I am not especially well coordinated, so I am sure that a professional could likely pull it off, but even then you would need to doublecheck the timing marks.

 

Given how much work it was to get everything accessible compared to the work required to replace the belt, pulleys, and tensioner, I think it would be prudent to replace the belt and pulleys while you are changing the tensioner.

 

I went with the Continental kit (does not include tensioner) and the GMB tensioner from Rock Auto. I also needed the cam pulley tool for the driver side. I did not replace the water pump and thermostat, they were not broken so I didn't fix them :)

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