Pre-Tuning Log Feedback Wanted

Prior to tuning or rather paying for Dyno time to see if I want to Pro-Tune, I was wondering if yall could look at these two logs for any major items. I have been running COBB AP Stage 2 91 OCT for two years and I always run 93OCT. Mods are a Shorty DP (Divorced top section mated to stock cat section) and the COBB AP. Ive replaced the AFR and O2 with new DENSO sensors, haven't touched the plugs (I will have them done at my next oil change in about 300 miles from now).

Any feedback is great! My goals for tuning are to add a few parts for efficiency, a Full Divorced DP (GS) and a VF52 since the replacement VF46 has about 130K miles on it. Stock fueling is fine but I wouldn't mind broadening the power and torque plots

Thanks

08LGT_Log1.csv

08LGT_Log2.csv

Check out links 2 through 5 on this page for info about logging:

http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/IncompleteGuideToTuning

Actually, I recommend the whole thing, but since you asked about logging...

It was written for RomRaider users, so a few of the terms are different than what Cobb uses, but translating won't be hard. For example what RomRaider calls "Fine Learning Knock Correction" is what Cobb calls "Fine Knock Learn."

About those logs:

The first log shows more knock learning than I like to see. DAM is still 1.0 so it's not too bad, and there's a bit of noise in knock detection so I'd do a couple more pulls to see if that was random or repeatable.

By default, fine learning will pull 1.4 degrees on each knock event, and then add 0.35 degrees at a time if the engine doesn't knock again in the same RPM/load area. It pull timing 3 times in two areas. The area where it pulled twice in the same range is the most suspect - if that happens repeatably, pull timing in that area (and smooth out nearby cells) until it only rarely pulls timing (at most once every 5 pulls through that same RPM/load area).

Some notes on which columns to log / not log:

AF Learning parameters change slowly enough that I never log them. I just look at them once a day or so to make sure they're not getting more than a few percent away from zero.

Dynamic advance isn't useful. If you want those values (which you probably don't) you can look the up from your tune, based on RPM and load.

Same with MAF voltage. If you want it you can look it up based on MAF g/s. (might not be exact due to compensations, but it'll be close enough)

You'll want a wideband O2s sensor if you get further into this.

I am going to tell ya to go get 2 tunes, which is what I am going to do. 91 and 93 Pro Tune. I also have Innovative wide band gauge and their boost gauge. yes I bought the Big bad A$$ gauges. These will be in my cubby pod. I was told I would need them to dial in the tune.

Get all your parts installed, get a base tune, then Pro tune on dyno. did this with my 09 WRX and car never had a problem.

Check out links 2 through 5 on this page for info about logging:

http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/IncompleteGuideToTuning

Actually, I recommend the whole thing, but since you asked about logging...

 

It was written for RomRaider users, so a few of the terms are different than what Cobb uses, but translating won't be hard. For example what RomRaider calls "Fine Learning Knock Correction" is what Cobb calls "Fine Knock Learn."

 

About those logs:

 

The first log shows more knock learning than I like to see. DAM is still 1.0 so it's not too bad, and there's a bit of noise in knock detection so I'd do a couple more pulls to see if that was random or repeatable.

 

By default, fine learning will pull 1.4 degrees on each knock event, and then add 0.35 degrees at a time if the engine doesn't knock again in the same RPM/load area. It pull timing 3 times in two areas. The area where it pulled twice in the same range is the most suspect - if that happens repeatably, pull timing in that area (and smooth out nearby cells) until it only rarely pulls timing (at most once every 5 pulls through that same RPM/load area).

 

Some notes on which columns to log / not log:

 

AF Learning parameters change slowly enough that I never log them. I just look at them once a day or so to make sure they're not getting more than a few percent away from zero.

 

Dynamic advance isn't useful. If you want those values (which you probably don't) you can look the up from your tune, based on RPM and load.

 

Same with MAF voltage. If you want it you can look it up based on MAF g/s. (might not be exact due to compensations, but it'll be close enough)

 

You'll want a wideband O2s sensor if you get further into this.

Really appreciate the glance over and the info in the links. It really simplifies the whole process.

I am going to tell ya to go get 2 tunes, which is what I am going to do. 91 and 93 Pro Tune. I also have Innovative wide band gauge and their boost gauge. yes I bought the Big bad A$$ gauges. These will be in my cubby pod. I was told I would need them to dial in the tune.

 

Get all your parts installed, get a base tune, then Pro tune on dyno. did this with my 09 WRX and car never had a problem.

There are a few LC1s available locally that I have been keeping my eye on. Thanks for you suggestions, I think I may put the WBO2 in the cubby as well or in the glove box where the manual goes.

Also I grabbed two more logs which give two different pictures. On one hand the ECU learned knock in the ~3000-4000 RPM range so it pulls and adds it back but on another pull in the same range there was none.

Thinking through the culprit the plugs have about 32K miles on them and I've never gotten a misfire MIL, would it be logical to replace the plugs and log again?

08LGT_Log3.csv

08LGT_Log4.csv

I'm going to recommend a different wideband controller than an LC-1. I had nothing but issues with multiple LC-1 controllers where they send error codes for a bad sensor. They'll tell you it's because of sensor location and heat. If you search a little about the LC-1 you'll read a lot of the same issue with a "dead sensor".

I now use a 14point7 wideband controller and haven't had a single hiccup since install over 2 years ago. With the LC-1, I would have gone through 2-3 sensors in that time frame.

If you want to take more advantage of the vf52, you should get a bigger fuel pump. Relatively cheap and easy (or cheap) to have installed.

How old are your coil packs? That seems to be one of the things that often causes people problems on dyno day. Dyno tuning will expose a weakened coil pack in no time.

If you want to take more advantage of the vf52, you should get a bigger fuel pump. Relatively cheap and easy (or cheap) to have installed.

 

How old are your coil packs? That seems to be one of the things that often causes people problems on dyno day. Dyno tuning will expose a weakened coil pack in no time.

Coil packs could be 194K miles old :eek:or younger. I bought this LGT with 160K in the clock during the past 34K miles I've never ran into a misfire code or had poor fuel mileage (not that, that is an accurate indication) and most of my logs show 0 for FKLC.

I'll reset the ECU when I replace the plugs this weekend and monitor AF Learning. I also just filled up on Shell 93OCT (what I always run) and have a 130 mile drive on Sunday so If i see it learn to pull timing btwn 3K-4K RPM I think ill be happy with letting the tuner smooth that out.

I think the smart move is to get my tune as the car is now then install my DP and 52 along with a WBO2 (the only part I am missing at this point).

I flashed back to Stage1 91 OCT and filled up with 93 OCT Shell. Went for a 50 mile drive and took the attached log along the way. Ill let the tuner do the rest

I went back to stage 1 b/c currently I am running a Shorty DP mated to a stock cat section FYI.

08LGT_Log6.csv