P0021

Hello,

I'm hoping somebody can help me. I searched for this code and found too many information, but haven't really found (or missed it, sorry if I did) a thread particular to my situation.

 

I replaced timing belt and tensioner at the dealer around 170K km, about 2 years ago. They didn't replace idlers (should've insisted on replacing these). 2 years, 40K km later (212K km right now) one idler completely blew. Luckly engine didn't die. I had a local mechanic replace all idlers and timing belt again. All OEM parts. This was about 500km ago, or about 2 weeks ago. The other day I got check engine, P0021 code. Car runs fine. I don't beat on it just because I'm not sure what is happening, but acceleration, idle, everything is good.

I read that it could be dirty oil. I changed oil myself 3700km ago. I check the level i never go below min. Besides, my car burns maybe half a liter on every 5000km. I am the only one who ever changed the oil on this car (first owner) and always used mobile1 synt with subaru filter. Oil is fine and so is the level.

 

What could cause this code to pop up? Is there anything that could've got damaged when idler blew and engine came to stall?

 

Thanks for all input.

Probably not related. Swap OCVs and see if the code changes to P0011. Monitor VVT angles.

Thanks for the quick response.

I found a pic here for the driver side OCV. How do I find the passanger side?

 

Also, what do you mean by monitoring VVT angles? How do I do that?

 

Thanks!

I should also mention. Car is completely stock. No mods. It's always been dealer maintained.

This code showed up right before that idler blew up. After replacing timing belt, no CEL but it now came back.

I found a pic here for the driver side OCV. How do I find the passenger side?

It's directly opposite the driver side.

 

What do you mean by monitoring VVT angles? How do I do that?

I recommend an OBDLink MX dongle and the BtSsm Android app. Bang for the buck, best tool you can get for keeping your car healthy. Next to frequent oil changes with high-quality synthetic, of course.

Sorry to jump in on this thread. I have a P0011 code currently. Haven't swapped valves yet but would like to know what brands are good/bad for replacements. Is this a "stick with OEM" type part? Don't look hard to change but I don't want to throw money away on a bad brand.

 

Also which side it bank 1? I assume driver's side of the engine but want to be sure.

 

Edit: Sorry I see another on this same topic. Bank 1 is passenger side.

Edited February 4, 2019 by spacemanspif

Thanks for the info, relative4.

I just checked out the app, it looks pretty cool. Wish I knew about it before lol

I'd rather not invest money now. I might be changing the car this year, this timing belt issue was unexpected and cost me a lot. Anyway, my CEL went away today when I was driving. I'll wait and see if it comes back then I will swap those OCV things and report back, so this will take few days obviously, maybe couple of weeks. Thank you again for your quick responses and help!

I changed the driver side Friday and got the CEL today when driving to work. I will clear it see if it’ll go away. Very odd in my opinion.

Clean and gut your banjo bolts. Had the same codes and it cost me my turbo. I learned the hard way. These banjo bolts were the culprit, they get clogged from sludge and carbon and starve your turbo and motor of oil.

Clean and gut your banjo bolts. Had the same codes and it cost me my turbo. I learned the hard way. These banjo bolts were the culprit, they get clogged from sludge and carbon and starve your turbo and motor of oil.

 

Will do. But I have a new used engine, I hope they replaced them when they put the engine in.

I am also troubleshooting a P0021 code. What are normal figures for cam advance? My cheap scanner and TorqueLite app show idle at around 12 degrees, and revs up to 2500 rpm get cam advance anywhere from 25 - 30 degrees.

For the purpose of monitoring a potentially bad OCV, you just need to make sure they're within 1-2 degrees of each other at all times.

hey guys,

I still haven't swapped OCVs. Yesterday CEL went off then it came back in the evening. I will most likely swap them to today.

 

I was reading a bit about this issue but I'm still confused.

What is this OCV thing? What does it do?

 

Thanks!

hey guys,

I still haven't swapped OCVs. Yesterday CEL went off then it came back in the evening. I will most likely swap them to today.

 

I was reading a bit about this issue but I'm still confused.

What is this OCV thing? What does it do?

 

Thanks!

 

Aka Variable Valve Timing (VVT), Very important sensor as it controls how much oil needs to be circulated in your engine. It will cause loss of power, you’re car will have increased MPG (because the engine will be working harder than it needs to) and you’ll have rough idle. You want to make sure it’s working properly. It’ll do more damage in the long run if ignored. I replaced mine and for some reason got the P0021 code.

Thanks for the reply and info!

 

Interesting, because I don't have any of those symptoms. Car runs fine, idles fine, MPG seems to be good (hard to say as it has been cold so mpg went up a little).

I will swap them and report back what happens.

Thanks for the reply and info!

 

Interesting, because I don't have any of those symptoms. Car runs fine, idles fine, MPG seems to be good (hard to say as it has been cold so mpg went up a little).

I will swap them and report back what happens.

 

My car didn't really show signs like that until about 1000mi after the initial code popped up. Even after an engine flush. 500 mi after that the turbo went and had to replace the ocv and turbo and tmic. Definitely do not do any spiriting driving or you will have the same issue.

My car didn't really show signs like that until about 1000mi after the initial code popped up. Even after an engine flush. 500 mi after that the turbo went and had to replace the ocv and turbo and tmic. Definitely do not do any spiriting driving or you will have the same issue.

 

+1. Though I replaced mine, did not have the CEL before, now I do. Erased it, came back on 5 miles after again. Not sure why..if some one can help (I have another thread on this going), I would greatly appreciate it.

 

What is this OCV thing? What does it do?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oil control valve (ocv) is a solenoid [valve] that varies the amount of oil pressure to the avcs cam gear in order to adjust valve timing. Each car manufacturer has a name of their own for it ... avcs, vvt ,vtec etc.

Edited February 6, 2019 by DaveWaters

Thanks everybody for the input. I definitely don't beat on it, even when the car don't have a problem. This car has been babied and it's pissing me off as I don't beat on it and I still have problems lol

Anyway, my confusion here is, if it's not solenoid what could be next? Could the timing belt be installed improperly?

if it's not solenoid what could be next?

 

If the solenoid is OK, you probably have an oil problem. Could be the banjo filter behind the passenger-side intake cam or something more serious.

so you don't think this has anything to do with timing belt installation? Maybe timing is slightly off or something like that.

Also, where is this banjo bolt?

It was most definitely the banjo bolts. That is what happened with my car. Just be careful how much you drive while you have the screen in those bolts. It may seem to be running fine for a while until it's too late. Be on a look out for smells like burnt rubber. It means your motor and turbo are starving for oil. These banjo bolts are filters for your oil lines and if there clogged your starving the motor and turbo. If you keep driving it like that you will cause engine damage and a blown turbo and oil into your coolant.

I believe there is a thread were someone has provided photos of banjo bolt locations and YouTube has videos of the same thing. Just have to do your research.

how do you take out passenger side solenoid? I took everything out today but couldn't take out the solenoid because of that bracket that holds that black coolant reservoir.

I cleaned up that solenoid on driver side with wd40 and CEL is still there. Should I disconnect the battery to reset ECU or will CEL clear on its own if problem disappears?

 

I will take a look at that banjo bolt thing, looks like it's hard to reach. But I don't think I have an issue with dirty oil. When I pull dipstick out, oil is clean and it's always full. My car burns less than 0.5L per 5000km. I've put about 200ml and I have about 3800km on this oil change. I also change oil myself since the car was new. I only use Mobile1 syntetic and 98% used subaru filter. I change oil every 4500-5500km. Most of the oil changes were under 5000km (not miles). I think I went twice 6000km and that was because of highway driving.

The only difference since the problem begin was timing belt replacement. Could timing belt skip by like one tooth and still drive normal?