Outer CV axle will not budge, any suggestions??

So, I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5L non-turbo and trying to remove the outer cv axle which seems to be stuck to the hub. This is what I have done so far:

 

Removed the brake caliper and holding bracket, removed the rotor, removed the caliper and lower bolt, separated the tie rod.

 

Sprayed around the axle spindle multiple times with liquid wrench, used a 16oz hammer and then sledge to try to bang it out, no luck.

 

Rented a puller tool from autozone and used it with an impact wrench, still no luck. Tool looks like this:

https://cal-vantools.com/products/flange-type-axle-front-wheel-hub-puller/

 

Any tips or tricks on this car that I might be missing? Do I need to disconnect the lower control arm? Maybe try heat? Would using a slide tool to pull off the hub help?

 

Any tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated!!

When you say you used a 16oz hammer and then sledge, I'm assuming this is with the axle-nut removed? If I'm missing something I believe the end of the axle has a dimple for that reason - pointed chisel + hammer with the axle nut removed should jostle the axle free. This video is where I got that idea...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng4YssAewMQ

 

Skip to about 4:45 where he removes the axle nut and explains how to push the axle back from the hub. Apologize if you've already done all this but you didn't mention removing or loosening the axle-nut.

If you're talking about pushing the axle through the hub assembly and it's not moving, it may be seized. I had this happen to one of my front axles when I was trying to replace the broken CV boots. I ended up disassembling the CV joint with the axle still stuck in the hub - there is barely enough room to get the CV shaft out of the cup if you disconnect enough of your suspension.

 

Or, use an air hammer:

+1 on air hammer, after proper penetrant (not Liquid Wrench).

Good penetrants:

- PB Blaster

- AeroKroil

- 50/50 acetone/ATF

Thanks for the replies.

I did remove the axle nut and even tried putting it on in reverse to try to hammer it out, but had no luck there also.

Will pick up some PB Blaster after work and soak them and then see if I can get my hands on an air hammer, I've got a small compressor(2.3 SCFM @90), so don't think it will handle one, but have some friends that might or I guess I could look at getting an electric impact hammer??

Your compressor will be fine. You're just firing the hammer in half-second bursts.

You can also rent those tools if needed.

Freeze-off works better on axles than PB. The freeze off will literally freeze and shrink the splines ever so slightly, but enough to get the axle out. Grab a couple cans because it may take some time. An air hammer and patience is key.

Put anti-seize compound on all splines and threads when going back together. It will make it easier next time.

Put anti-seize compound on all splines and threads when going back together. It will make it easier next time.

That's a negative. Grease, not anti-seize, on axle splines & threads.

That's a negative. Grease, not anti-seize, on axle splines & threads.

 

I've never heard this before.. is there any particular reason grease is better than anti-seize in this case? Does anti-seize gum up or something?

I've never heard this before.. is there any particular reason grease is better than anti-seize in this case? Does anti-seize gum up or something?

 

I've always used grease there because (1) I didn't want to introduce the metal powder into the wheel bearings and (2) tradition.

 

Just did a little more research, and anti-seize should be fine.

I've done some TSB fixes on vehicles that required a synthetic grease be applied to the axle to prevent a clicking noise when shifting from reverse to drive and vice versa. I've had good luck using anti-seize as well, just be sure to use a thin film, too much can be bad.

I've always used grease there because (1) I didn't want to introduce the metal powder into the wheel bearings and (2) tradition.

 

Just did a little more research, and anti-seize should be fine.

 

I will agree, wheel bearing grease from the auto parts store would be best.

 

These are sealed bearings so they should get be getting anything inside them.

Thanks guys. I'll start using grease instead.

+1 for air hammer, I have a larger compressor and it's been a life saver on many situations like this. Canadian Salted winters!