New OEM shortblock with existing mods help.

Hi I bought a 05 Legacy GT with a thrown rod on Facebook for cheap. The guy selling it got burnt and had no idea what was all done to it. Anyways I bought a new Subaru short block for it along with slightly used VF52 turbo for it. The junk engine that was in it had eagle rods and CP pistons. The turbo I took out is a BNR 20G. It has DW 1000cc injectors, unknown aluminum intercooler, turbo xs 50/50 bov, cobb acess port, catless down pipe, catless up pipe, full exhaust, and cobb 3 port boost controller. The tune it was running when it blew was a torqued proformance. I don't know if it's a bad tune or user neglect. I don't know if I should put on the VF52 like planned or disassemble and clean the 20G and put that back on. Is 1000cc injectors to much for the VF52 if I went that route? Also is the 20G too much for my stock block?

Don't bother with the 20g.

 

Contact Mike at tuningalliance@gamil.com Let Mike know I sent you.

 

My ej257 short block and vf52 have been bulletproof for over 146,000 miles. vf52 has over 157,000 miles. I put the ej257 in May 2012.

 

The 1000cc's should be fine, I'm still on stock injectors.

 

Is your AP a Version 3 ?

 

Check out my click here link in my sig.

Replace the oil cooler, oil pump and clean the pan well. Have the heads done by a reputable shop and go with good gaskets(I prefer OEM). Ditch the banjo filters. I second using Mike @ TA.

 

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Edited January 24, 2022 by whitexc

Thats similar to my setup, I have 1000cc injectors and a bnr 20g. The injectors won't matter which way you go 20g or vf52. The vf52 is ready to go, so you might want to go that route.

 

Dont forget the avcs cam gears those need to be cleaned or replaced!

A 20G is definitely getting into territory where it'll noticeably reduce the lifespan of your block. It's way faster than a VF52, but you're getting more lag down low before it really gets up and goes. 1000cc injectors are fine for either so just leave those in there, maybe get a shop to clean them and spray pattern test them for you. Deatchwerks also does that if you'd like and you'll get them re-ringed.

 

Like mentioned above, be sure to clean out or replace your AVCS solenoids. Easy to access and cheap insurance against getting more metal back into your variable valve timing system and causing issues. I'd also highly recommend leaving the BOV in full recirc as Subaru intended. Subarus don't deal well with vent-to-atmosphere BOV setups. The factory BPV probably won't play nice with 20G levels of boost, so if you opt to keep that turbo I'd recommend a Cobb unit.

Can that turbo xs blow off valve even go full recirc? Whats the point of an aftermarket bov? I'm curious because I want to know if I should have one lol. I have a 20g, and what your saying has my full attention , should I be using an aftermarket bov as well at this point? Edited January 24, 2022 by Tehnation

Sorry I was having trouble logging in to my account. I do have a V3 AP and it already has some tuning alliance maps but I have no idea what they are for. Once I get the engine together i'll have to figure something put with the tune.. My next question is if I go the VF 52 route should I keep the Cobb boost controller or find a stock one? I already bought all new AVCS cam gears and a new oil pan and pick up tube, oil pump, oil cooler, and I'm getting a valve job done on the heads. I think the turbo xs I have isn't adjustable but on the other hand it would sound great, even if it did run a bit rich. I'm leaning towards putting the VF52 on for now and getting it tuned then in the future if I want more out of it I will maybe get another 20G because there is shaft play in mine and it's in unknown condition. Thanks for all the replies so far. Edited January 25, 2022 by Chilly178

Talk to Mike, I think he'll use the Cobb boost controller.

 

He's the one you should be asking these questions.

 

My vf52 and ported heads is great fun to drive. It has stock fueling and boost control. Well it does have the AEM 320 pump, but stock injectors.

Sorry I was having trouble logging in to my account. I do have a V3 AP and it already has some tuning alliance maps but I have no idea what they are for. Once I get the engine together i'll have to figure something put with the tune.. My next question is if I go the VF 52 route should I keep the Cobb boost controller or find a stock one? I already bought all new AVCS cam gears and a new oil pan and pick up tube, oil pump, oil cooler, and I'm getting a valve job done on the heads. I think the turbo xs I have isn't adjustable but on the other hand it would sound great, even if it did run a bit rich. I'm leaning towards putting the VF52 on for now and getting it tuned then in the future if I want more out of it I will maybe get another 20G because there is shaft play in mine and it's in unknown condition. Thanks for all the replies so far.

 

The boost controller is always a good mod, regardless of the turbo you use! I believe that was one of my first mods. No tuner or sane person would tell you to replace a grimmspeed/cobb ebcs for an oem one!

Good to know I will perhaps leave it on. I believe the car already has a AEM boost gauge/wide band gauge as well so that should help for tuning. The only mod I'm thinking of making myself is a Grimm speed AOS or something similar.

I have a AOS on my wagon, I will not put one on my Spec. The weather is to cold around here.

why not? your not to far from me so we have the same weather somewhat. AOS is no good in cold? I was thinking I need one as well sooner than later.

AOS lines can sometimes freeze if it gets too cold, causing the can itself to pressurize and explode. The Cobb/IAG/Crawford AOSs are also by far better than the Grimmspeed one. This happened to a forum member but I can't find the post with my Google-Fu.

 

An upgraded BPV can handle more boost before leaking btw.

I had a short discussion with Crawford when I bought my AOS kit and told them about my climate and driving style/build. While a possibility, they made it sound like you have other things to worry about than the AOS malfunctioning. They also claim that their design should lower that chance. Take it for what it's worth. They are salesman. They have also been tinkering with these cars for a long time.

 

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Edited January 26, 2022 by whitexc

If your AOS return line does freeze up, and I've seen it happen a couple of times, the pressure looks for the path of least resistance and that's your turbo seals. Once that happens, the turbo needs to be rebuilt and you'll generally have a bunch of oil in exhaust.

 

AOS is for race cars in controlled environments. PCV system in good working order is all you need.

While I believe it can happen and respect the elders here on the forum, ringland failure and bearing issues due to detonation are much more prevalent. Crawford has the Baja kit for n/a cars so it isn't so much a race car thing cuz we all know how fast they are lol. So many factors must be considered so I guess I'm the guinea pig there. Heck, I wish my Cummins had a similar system although the oil from the crank breather blowing all over the bottom of the truck probably helped it out in our climate.

 

I went with the Inferno wrap on exhaust components too....supposedly a first around these parts. It appears to be holding up well.

 

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Edited January 27, 2022 by whitexc

My AOS sits on top of the oil fill tube. It's a chuck of aluminum. Even on the 150 miles home from VT after skiing, there is a whitetish milky gunk in the cap on the AOS.

 

You can see the AOS in one of the photos in my click here link. I got it on a group buy back in 2010. I don't have those pictures here on the laptop in VT.