homam Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 HiI am a new member of this forum and I hope to get a solution to my problemMy english is not excellent so please help me in simple languageMy 2005 Subaru Legacy has a 2.0 engineThe car started very slowly, between 2000 and 3000 rpmAnd very bad when hillyWhen the battery cable is disconnected for a period of time, the problem will disappear and reappear after a short timeDid not give errors in the scannerThe specialist could not know the malfunctionHe did everything necessary and we did not find a solution to this problemDoes the rear brake lights have anything to do with this malfunction or the exhaust muffler?Please solve because I am tired of trying and spending moneythanxs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) Find a different mechanic. Try this, Stop disconnecting the battery, when you do that for more then 15 minutes your resetting the ECU. It needs about 60 miles before the ECU is in normal operation. If you must reset the ECU, after reconnecting the battery turn the key to "On" for 10 seconds before starting. Edited January 15, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdallahhomam Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Find a different mechanic. Try this, [ATTACH]289643[/ATTACH] Stop disconnecting the battery, when you do that for more then 15 minutes your resetting the ECU. It needs about 60 miles before the ECU is in normal operation. If you must reset the ECU, after reconnecting the battery turn the key to "On" for 10 seconds before starting.Thanks for the advice I have gone on to several mechanics And I checked to make sure that there were error codes I did not find any wrong symbol I changed the coils, spark plugs, air filter, maf sensor, fuel pump and cleaned the exhaust. The problem was not solved Please help if there are any solutions regarding this problem تم الإرسال من Redmi Note 8 Pro باستخدام Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 I'll send a link with this thread to a member that used to own a Subaru repair shop. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwmccauley01 Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Sounds like its pulling timing in that range of load and rpm. Could explain why resetting the ecu makes in go away for a bit. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Do you have anything you can check knock sensor values with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homam Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Do you have anything you can check knock sensor values with? I will try to check the knock sensor tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 My first guess (due to the hill climb and rpm) is knock. Many times the first noticeable instances of rod knock will occur under these exact conditions. Yes, timing will be pulled for the knock, IAM may drop to zero, but no codes will be thrown for knock alone. If your mechanics cant pick up rod knock... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homam Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 I hope the problem is the knock sensor I will try to replace it as soon as possible thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 I doubt it is the sensor. I suspect you have rod knock. Many times with a Subie the first detection of rod knock is 2-3000 rpm with light load transitioning to medium load while maintaining speed (going up a hill). Your symptoms are classic. Rod knock is the end of the engines lifespan. Drop the oil and look for gold flakes (could be very fine). Evidence to be found easily. If it is rod knock you should be able to hear it. Sounds like a ball peen hammer tapping your block in time with rpm. If engine is healthy, but exhibiting knock use a higher octane fuel. Rod knock is end of life. Detonation knock is asking to blow a ringland. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrostySpecB Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 AVCS valve maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 AVCS valve maybe? Unsure if OP has these, but this would be my suggestion to check as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 That would cause a lot more than what the OP is experiencing and would also cause an immediate CEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 Both my OCVs were bad and didn’t leave a check engine light. Replaced them and the car ran like new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdallahhomam Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Both my OCVs were bad and didn’t leave a check engine light. Replaced them and the car ran like new.Please can you explain what I should replace I didn't understand very well Thank you تم الإرسال من Redmi Note 8 Pro باستخدام Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvick08GT Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 No matter where you live, I would assume there should be a GOOD mechanic somewhere..... Any DA can read a code... Do not just throw parts at these cars.. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Your oil control valves are right by the valve covers. Sometimes they become clogged with old engine oil gunk. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-avcs-oil-control-valves-ocvs-262119.html Sometimes you can clean them with carburetor cleaner and they’ll work like new, but as they get old I find that replacing them works best. They’re about $110 US dollars, last I bought mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdallahhomam Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 No matter where you live, I would assume there should be a GOOD mechanic somewhere..... Any DA can read a code... Do not just throw parts at these cars.. Good LuckI live in Syria Thanxs تم الإرسال من Redmi Note 8 Pro باستخدام Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdallahhomam Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Your oil control valves are right by the valve covers. Sometimes they become clogged with old engine oil gunk. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-avcs-oil-control-valves-ocvs-262119.html Sometimes you can clean them with carburetor cleaner and they’ll work like new, but as they get old I find that replacing them works best. They’re about $110 US dollars, last I bought mine.I hope this fixes my problem Thank you very much تم الإرسال من Redmi Note 8 Pro باستخدام Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Both my OCVs were bad and didn’t leave a check engine light. Replaced them and the car ran like new. When an OCV fails the engine will overadvance timing and throw a cel. If there is a failed ocv and no code, I would be looking for the why. Timing is controlled by oil pressure. The valves operation maintains required pressure. If timing is off enough you also get a crank,/cam correlation CEL as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Middle East has notoriously bad fuel. If in Syria, poor fuel quality (octane) could deff be an issue. I have first hand experience with cars in and from Saudi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 When an OCV fails the engine will overadvance timing and throw a cel. If there is a failed ocv and no code, I would be looking for the why. Timing is controlled by oil pressure. The valves operation maintains required pressure. If timing is off enough you also get a crank,/cam correlation CEL as well. My car just misfired like crazy before boost kicked in. I also came to find afterwards (during my engine rebuild) that my oil pickup tube was almost completely clogged up. Perhaps the previous owner missed some oil changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abdallahhomam Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 I have checked th OCV,s It was clean though. I cleaned well and nothing benefited the problem remained The best solution is to sell the car and get rid of the problem permanently [emoji24][emoji24] تم الإرسال من Redmi Note 8 Pro باستخدام Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 You can easily test an OCV. Just apply 12v and ground to the two pins. They are not polarity sensitive. If it is working, the slide will open with energy and close upon disconnect. But my gut still says you have knock, be it end of life rod knock or poor fuel detonation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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