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low torque between 2000-3000rpm & in hill


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Hi

I am a new member of this forum and I hope to get a solution to my problem

My english is not excellent so please help me in simple language

My 2005 Subaru Legacy has a 2.0 engine

The car started very slowly, between 2000 and 3000 rpm

And very bad when hilly

When the battery cable is disconnected for a period of time, the problem will disappear and reappear after a short time

Did not give errors in the scanner

The specialist could not know the malfunction

He did everything necessary and we did not find a solution to this problem

Does the rear brake lights have anything to do with this malfunction or the exhaust muffler?

Please solve because I am tired of trying and spending money

thanxs

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Find a different mechanic.

 

Try this,

 

1040449623_CELcodereaderina05.thumb.png.3d84b5fbdf82880c115894a764af7208.png

 

Stop disconnecting the battery, when you do that for more then 15 minutes your resetting the ECU. It needs about 60 miles before the ECU is in normal operation.

 

If you must reset the ECU, after reconnecting the battery turn the key to "On" for 10 seconds before starting.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Find a different mechanic.

 

Try this,

 

[ATTACH]289643[/ATTACH]

 

Stop disconnecting the battery, when you do that for more then 15 minutes your resetting the ECU. It needs about 60 miles before the ECU is in normal operation.

 

If you must reset the ECU, after reconnecting the battery turn the key to "On" for 10 seconds before starting.

Thanks for the advice

I have gone on to several mechanics

And I checked to make sure that there were error codes

I did not find any wrong symbol

I changed the coils, spark plugs, air filter, maf sensor, fuel pump and cleaned the exhaust.

The problem was not solved

Please help if there are any solutions regarding this problem

 

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My first guess (due to the hill climb and rpm) is knock. Many times the first noticeable instances of rod knock will occur under these exact conditions. Yes, timing will be pulled for the knock, IAM may drop to zero, but no codes will be thrown for knock alone. If your mechanics cant pick up rod knock...
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I doubt it is the sensor. I suspect you have rod knock. Many times with a Subie the first detection of rod knock is 2-3000 rpm with light load transitioning to medium load while maintaining speed (going up a hill). Your symptoms are classic. Rod knock is the end of the engines lifespan. Drop the oil and look for gold flakes (could be very fine). Evidence to be found easily.

 

If it is rod knock you should be able to hear it. Sounds like a ball peen hammer tapping your block in time with rpm.

 

If engine is healthy, but exhibiting knock use a higher octane fuel. Rod knock is end of life. Detonation knock is asking to blow a ringland.

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Your oil control valves are right by the valve covers. Sometimes they become clogged with old engine oil gunk.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-avcs-oil-control-valves-ocvs-262119.html

 

Sometimes you can clean them with carburetor cleaner and they’ll work like new, but as they get old I find that replacing them works best. They’re about $110 US dollars, last I bought mine.

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Your oil control valves are right by the valve covers. Sometimes they become clogged with old engine oil gunk.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-avcs-oil-control-valves-ocvs-262119.html

 

Sometimes you can clean them with carburetor cleaner and they’ll work like new, but as they get old I find that replacing them works best. They’re about $110 US dollars, last I bought mine.

I hope this fixes my problem

Thank you very much

 

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Both my OCVs were bad and didn’t leave a check engine light. Replaced them and the car ran like new.

 

When an OCV fails the engine will overadvance timing and throw a cel. If there is a failed ocv and no code, I would be looking for the why. Timing is controlled by oil pressure. The valves operation maintains required pressure. If timing is off enough you also get a crank,/cam correlation CEL as well.

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When an OCV fails the engine will overadvance timing and throw a cel. If there is a failed ocv and no code, I would be looking for the why. Timing is controlled by oil pressure. The valves operation maintains required pressure. If timing is off enough you also get a crank,/cam correlation CEL as well.

 

My car just misfired like crazy before boost kicked in. I also came to find afterwards (during my engine rebuild) that my oil pickup tube was almost completely clogged up. Perhaps the previous owner missed some oil changes.

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You can easily test an OCV. Just apply 12v and ground to the two pins. They are not polarity sensitive. If it is working, the slide will open with energy and close upon disconnect.

 

 

 

But my gut still says you have knock, be it end of life rod knock or poor fuel detonation.

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