Looking for some advice on my first build, 06 OBXT

So long story short, I pulled the motor Saturday due to 7 psi of compression in cyl 4. I'm looking for some advice on parts and build since this is my first motor build. This is the wifes car, she is very sensitive to NVH, and I'm really not doing much in the way of upgrades if they aren't going to ultimately improve reliability long term. But I'm willing to spend on some parts that would add reliability to it. So with that, I've got a parts list together that if everyone could look over and tell me what i've missed, I'd really appreciate it.

 

OEM shortblock 10103AC030 - I get conflicting info on this part number. It seems to be the part number for a EJ257, but it's also the part number that shows up when I search for the replacement for my car, which I thought was a EJ255. Does this matter?

OEM gasket set 10105AA720

cyl head half moons 11051AA074 qty 4

OEM oil pump 15010AA300 - will check clearances on pump to see if it is in spec

OEM Water Pump 21111AA026 - I think this is the one with the cast impeller

OEM WP gasket 2114AA051

OEM Thermostat 21200AA072

Gates timing set TCK328RB - belt,tensioner,pulleys

Moroso oil pickup 24965 - Is this worth spending money on for a stock build?

ARP head studs 260-4701 - Probably will do these unless somebody really offers up some negatives

Company 23 Timing belt guide kit - seemed like cheap insurance

 

PCV hose assembly 11815AB790 - Does an OCC make sense?

 

I'm having the heads surfaced and checked at a local machine shop.

 

Anything I forgot or am ******* up?

 

And pictures, everybody loves pictures. After reading about the trouble people had with the cam gear bolt, I decided to loosen them up in the car. A regular allen key, 30' of square tube I had laying around and the cam gear wrench made a pretty easy job of it. Just thought I'd throw this up here in case it helps somebody.

 

http://i.imgur.com/ukCZPqd.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/ukCZPqdm.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/iQ4g5Gf.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/iQ4g5Gfm.jpg

The ej257 is what you want,

 

read my click here link. Lots of great info there.

Thanks. I've read your thread and others on here and NASIOC. Lots of info but there seems to be some that is old and some that conflicts. I think I've got like 98% of it, but I like to get that last 2% as thats where you tend to get bit in the ass I find.

Based on you build list, you are on the right track. I have the Moroso oil pickup and it's a good investment, since the stock ones are know to crack and loose oil psi. ARP studs are good, but on a stock setup could be overkill. OEM studs will work just fine as long as they are installed correctly, based on the Subaru manual.

I ordered my block earlier this month. p/n 10103AC050. I ordered over the phone through Heuberger (vendor on here). I was told they are selling 257 blocks in place of anything with a 255. If you order a 255 p/n, it's been superseded by the 050 number above.

Click on the thumbnail for full size.

 

So cyl 4 has a burned exhaust valve.

 

http://i.imgur.com/tTg7xSim.jpg

 

I'll just assume the other one needs to be replaced and get both for that cyl. Is there any reason to expect the others should be replaced? what about the intake valves? I'd rather spend the money and get it right. I've got a guy who is rebuilding the heads, and I'll defer to his opinion, but If I can order the parts ahead of time to get the heads done quicker, I'll do it

 

 

Cyl crosshatch still looks good.

http://i.imgur.com/7CfRg2vm.jpg

 

I can feel something at the top of the cyl walls though. I wouldn't call it a lip as much as just general roughness. I need to clean it well and see what difference that makes.

 

Head looks pretty clean on the greasy side though. 135k with synthetic oil change and a Subaru filter every 5k.

http://i.imgur.com/NWwaIEnm.jpg

 

Banjo bolt filter is pretty clean as well. I'm going to pull it on re-installation, but I'm certain it hasn't caused any issues this far.

 

http://i.imgur.com/S9wlLiEm.jpg

 

 

The other Boxer in the family is less than thrilled about his new assignment.

http://i.imgur.com/xZBy1h4m.jpg

The other boxer looks to be in good shape, you should use him in replace.

I would replace the cam bolts with Turn in Concepts FU cambolts.

 

Moroso pick up is great quality. A no brainer. ARP head studs are nice but probably overkill for a stock build. I really like them though. If you ever turn up the wick later it's nice to know you have them.

 

I would reuse your original oil pump, they can go forever. Disassemble it, check the plunger for burrs, check the clearances of the rotors, clean it up really well, and Red loctite the backing screws.

 

Make sure you check the valve lash with the heads torqued to the block. The clearances will tighten up so if you have the lash set with the heads off it will change.

 

I also had a burnt exhaust valve. The lash was too tight so the valve burned up. My shortblock was in great shape so I sold it since I had a built closed deck block to go in. You could reuse yours and replace the main and rod bearings if you want. Or just buy new and sell your old block.

I'm not surprised to see a burnt valve. Now the question is, do you really need that new shortblock?

 

Personally, I'd have both heads repaired and at least replace all the exhaust valves. They're cheap and it may save you from doing this again in the near future.

Now the question is, do you really need that new shortblock?

 

Right. That is the question. All I can say is that I felt like it was burning too much oil even before it burned the valve. On disassembly, there was oil in the intercooler but not really any you could notice in the Turbo outlet, so I guess thats a bad PCV system. Not sure how much you could lose that way. I guess if I could test the rings and see what they are doing then I might feel ok about it. Not sure how though.

 

I could do bearings and rings on what I've got, but I don't have all the tools I'd need, so I'd have to add that to the parts cost. That gets me to $1700 for a shortblock really quickly. It's also a job I don't want to learn on my wifes Daily Driver. Discretion being the better part of valor and all.

 

So that kind of puts me at the point of either spend the money on the short block, or just put what I have back. That seems foolish because I'd rather spend the money and feel good about putting another 100k on the car with high confidence in it.

That seems foolish because I'd rather spend the money and feel good about putting another 100k on the car with high confidence in it.

 

That's a good plan. Get a new PCV also, they are cheap.

Consider a oem water pump, mine and others gates pumps have failed. My impeller shaft snapped in two at 40k

My Gates pump leaked out the weep hole at 20,000 miles.

 

OEM or one from the auto parts store.

OK edited the first post with updated PNs and info.

 

Gates timing kit with no WP

OEM water pump, hopefully got the one with the case impeller that supposedly flows more

Replacement PCV valve asembly - Does a OCC make sense here?

So I'm looking at exhaust valves and I'm seeing 3 part numbers

 

13202AA411

13201AA412

13202AA570

 

But I can not for the life of me figure out what the difference is. The 412 part number is $5 more so obviously something is different. Maybe one of them is oversize?Different production facilities?

Spoke to Hueberger today. looks like 13201AA412 is the correct Ex valve for my motor, although he could not confirm what the differences were.

 

Looks like the Gates timing belt kit is cheaper to buy with the water pump than without. Looks like I've got a brand new water pump for sale