Lock doors with engine running?

I hope this hasn't been asked before too many times but I'm on my phone and have searched the forums and deep space of the interwebz.

 

Ok so I would like leave my car running and lock the doors with the key fob. Wondering if there is an easy wire cut or just pulling a fuse to get this to work.

 

 

 

 

Sent from somewhere in Potatoland

What I do is open the passenger door, then lock it. Put the key in ignition and start it. And close the door and the alarm sets. I use my other key to manually unlock the driver door to get in when I leave. I don't know of a way to use the keyfob while it is running. If you press the lock button again after it is started it unlocks the doors and you can't lock them without shutting the car off again.

Why ?

 

You do know it's not good to let these engines idle to warm up ?

 

Start it and drive it.

With the car running, doors closed, sitting in the drivers seat

Press the lock button on the door, therefore all doors are now locked

Now manually unlock the drivers door, open it and when it's open manually flick the lock back to locked.

 

If you have to, it's really the best and only way

It may not be cheap or easy, but any aftermarket turbo timer or remote starter will allow you to do this.

Why ?

 

You do know it's not good to let these engines idle to warm up ?

 

Start it and drive it.

 

 

Just want something to warm it up for a few minutes in the morning while I wait inside so no one jacks my car. Not letting it warm up for hours on end or anything. Just know that a lot of theft happens this way and wanted the peace of mind for those three or so minutes I'm away

 

 

Sent from somewhere in Potatoland

Again, just start it and drive it. That's what the owners manual say's.

 

Even in VT when it's -20F I start the car, clean off the windows if needed and drive to the ski hill.

Again, just start it and drive it. That's what the owners manual say's.

 

Even in VT when it's -20F I start the car, clean off the windows if needed and drive to the ski hill.

 

I don't have the luxury of driving slow and mellow until it gets to operating temperature, I go from my home to a busy road with moving traffic. I choose to start the car and let it run for about 3-4 minutes while I brush my teeth and gather my stuff.

 

This allows the oil and trans fluid to start warming up so when I have to merge into flowing traffic I am ok to get on it a little versus having to bang through 4 gears or more with a cold engine/fluids.

 

My old school (former Racer) Auto Shop teacher, always believed in warming your daily driver up. Metal expands as it is heated and contracts when cooled, so his theory was the tolerances (Bearing clearances for example) are higher at cold temps. Of course we are talking on a very small scale.

 

Not to mention giving the whole block and heads time to warm up rather than just jumping on it and going to traffic. It isn't like it is idling for 15 minutes and is usually still in the "high Idle" circuit (what ever it is called) and running around 1100 RPMs when I am ready to leave.

 

Blip the throttle and down to normal idle with a TEMP gauge moving and ready to merge and or pass if necessary.

 

Engine Block heater is on the list of things to do. Thus eliminating the warm up. I don't know what is "best" to do but the manual isn't always right (reference Oil Change interval info here), and Car manufactures make money off selling new cars.

your trans fluid, nor diffs, get warm sitting still, your prolonged idle with these boxers leads to high levels of unburned fuel dilution in your oil, I don't have them handy but i can dig up lots of Blackstone lab reports outlining poor habits of long idle duration.

 

let it idle perhaps a minute or so while getting your cd ready or cleaning your windows, then take it easy youll find it warms up faster with easy driving for 1-2min then to sitting still for 5 min

Unless you have forged pistons, then it sounds like you're driving with tin cans under the hood lol. But i agree with you, with stock internals, start it and drive it

 

Another reason I didn't go with forged pistons, it's a DD.

your trans fluid, nor diffs, get warm sitting still, your prolonged idle with these boxers leads to high levels of unburned fuel dilution in your oil, I don't have them handy but i can dig up lots of Blackstone lab reports outlining poor habits of long idle duration.

 

let it idle perhaps a minute or so while getting your cd ready or cleaning your windows, then take it easy youll find it warms up faster with easy driving for 1-2min then to sitting still for 5 min

 

Again, just start it and drive it. That's what the owners manual say's.

 

Even in VT when it's -20F I start the car, clean off the windows if needed and drive to the ski hill.

 

 

Hmm nothing in the 2006 Legacy GT Manual I could find states "start it and drive it" but.....

Section 7-9 states:

applied.

Section 7-18:

up.

OK wait FUEL ECONOMY HINTS ... Section 8-2 :

Avoid unnecessary engine idling.

Hmmmm.... Section 8-7 Winter Driving.... under Before Driving Your Vehicle (2nd paragraph):

smoothly.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

You can activate/deactivate this fiachure using a scaner

your trans fluid, nor diffs, get warm sitting still, your prolonged idle with these boxers leads to high levels of unburned fuel dilution in your oil, I don't have them handy but i can dig up lots of Blackstone lab reports outlining poor habits of long idle duration.

 

let it idle perhaps a minute or so while getting your cd ready or cleaning your windows, then take it easy youll find it warms up faster with easy driving for 1-2min then to sitting still for 5 min

 

Again, just start it and drive it. That's what the owners manual say's.

 

Even in VT when it's -20F I start the car, clean off the windows if needed and drive to the ski hill.

 

Hmm nothing in the 2006 Legacy GT Manual I could find states "start it and drive it" but.....

Section 7-9 states:

6. Confirm that all warning and indicator

lights have gone out after the engine has

started. The fuel injection system automatically

lowers the idle speed as the engine

warms up.

While the engine is warming up, make

sure that the selector lever is at the “P” or

“N” position and that the parking brake is

applied.

Section 7-18:

NOTE

�� When the engine coolant temperature

is still low, your vehicle’s automatic

transmission will up-shift at higher

engine speeds than when the coolant

temperature is sufficiently high in order

to shorten the warm-up time and

improve driveability. The gearshift timing

will automatically shift to the normal

timing after the engine has warmed

up.

OK wait FUEL ECONOMY HINTS ... Section 8-2 :

�� Avoid unnecessary engine idling.

Hmmmm.... Section 8-7 Winter Driving.... under Before Driving Your Vehicle (2nd paragraph):

While warming up the vehicle before driving,

check that the accelerator pedal,

brake pedal, and all other controls operate

smoothly.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

 

No experts able to offer any documentation to support their "opinion"?

your trans fluid, nor diffs, get warm sitting still, your prolonged idle with these boxers leads to high levels of unburned fuel dilution in your oil, I don't have them handy but i can dig up lots of Blackstone lab reports outlining poor habits of long idle duration.

 

let it idle perhaps a minute or so while getting your cd ready or cleaning your windows, then take it easy youll find it warms up faster with easy driving for 1-2min then to sitting still for 5 min

 

Just to let you know, the fuel in the oil, will evaporate and burn as soon as the engine whil reach the operating themperature

You guys complain about warming a car up, buy one of these new cars and see how fun that is. I accidentally left my Cruze running for 45 mins while dealing with a medical emergency at my job last winter and it didn't even move 1 tick mark. The cooling on this car is overkill in the winter. ECU kills boost till it reaches 2 tick marks stock and tuned. Does the Legacy kill boost too or it let you beat on it cold?

 

Legacy is remote start but after reading here I rarely used it except when I needed to jump in and scoot out as I lived next to the freeway onramp at that point.

Still no evidence to support peanut gallery widom that the manual states "start it and drive it"? I am not saying I know what is best for thes cars, i just tried to answer the OP's original question. How to have to doors locked when the car is running. On that note my way doesn't make you open the drivers door 3 times. You end up opening the passenger door once and then get in the drivers door to leave. Much less wear on the driver door.

 

But if any of the experts have Subaru documentation to support their recommendations for warming up a car I would be happy to entertain it. As of today all of those experts have remained silent. Hmmm why is that. Seems like some people can only discount or argue others thoughts but may not have anything to substantiate the BS.

On that note my way doesn't make you open the drivers door 3 times. You end up opening the passenger door once and then get in the drivers door to leave. .

 

Lyck i said, a good scaner (snap on, maxi sys) can dissable it under bcm function

Lyck i said, a good scaner (snap on, maxi sys) can dissable it under bcm function

 

oh rwry? engrisH mutch?

You guy's do what you want. I'm not letting my engine sit there at idle while it warms up.

You guy's do what you want. I'm not letting my engine sit there at idle while it warms up.

 

I at least let the needle fall from 2000 rpms on my DD. Pushing the clutch in a 2nd time(1st time to start the car) takes it out of cold start rev. Boost is cut and throttle seems like it's limited a bit so I'm not too worried about holding 2nd and 3rd gear for a bit to warm up the car.

Just want something to warm it up for a few minutes in the morning while I wait inside so no one jacks my car. Not letting it warm up for hours on end or anything. Just know that a lot of theft happens this way and wanted the peace of mind for those three or so minutes I'm away

 

 

Sent from somewhere in Potatoland

 

start, idle for 30 second and then gently drive away. your car will warm up much faster and you will not be drinking fuel.

 

letting the car idle cold = oil loaded up with raw gas

You guy's do what you want. I'm not letting my engine sit there at idle while it warms up.

 

It can be difficult to drive the car when all of the glass is fogged/frozen over. So it gets to idle for a few minutes while the defrosters do their thing.

 

I was actually concerned about the exact opposite: making sure I don't get locked out of my car if it's warming up.

Legacy was good for warming up where all my other cars were horrible for that. My DD is running Amsoil Dominator to get heat out the vents sooner. Once the car is warm 30 mins later, the halfway mark is too hot for me.

It can be difficult to drive the car when all of the glass is fogged/frozen over. So it gets to idle for a few minutes while the defrosters do their thing.

 

I was actually concerned about the exact opposite: making sure I don't get locked out of my car if it's warming up.

 

That's why the make ice scrappers. I think I said above, start it, clean the windows if needed, then drive it.

 

If the windows are clear, start it and drive it.

 

BTW, I don't want to hear somebody whining about MPG.