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intermitten no start no power


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i have a 1996 Legacy Outback 2.2L 325k miles and have an intermittent issue where when i turn the key to crank and start the engine i hear a click and then there is no power to the car, it randomly does it and stays like that for 5 - 10 mins then comes back and starts just fine. Alternator is fine(14 - 14.5v), and Battery is fine (12.8v)

i was thinking starter but would that cause the car to lose ALL power like there was no battery?

 

also i have taken off the A/C Compressor/Acumulator and lines, heater core lines are connected together, just recently replaced a head gasket, ABS light is on(only light illuminated)

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

Vinny

Edited by Vince578
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Check and clean all the ground wires you can find, these cars have subpar grounding from the factory

 

Most of the grounds ive seen from doing other work already had star washers on them and didnt look horribly corroded, some even looked newer. I will clean them and see if it happens again in a few weeks of driving and then ill be back to say if it worked or not.

 

Thank You

 

Vinny

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It's possible the starter is failing since they tend to act weird when they start to go, but no need to throw money at it until you can rule out the easy things. Also wouldn't hurt to see if the battery is dying/has a weak cell. Most auto places can test it for free.
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It's possible the starter is failing since they tend to act weird when they start to go, but no need to throw money at it until you can rule out the easy things. Also wouldn't hurt to see if the battery is dying/has a weak cell. Most auto places can test it for free.

 

 

 

I will go test my battery today! was gonna do that sooner or later. do you if theres a way to test a starter? with it still on the car?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I will go test my battery today! was gonna do that sooner or later. do you if theres a way to test a starter? with it still on the car?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Most auto parts places have a starter tester or an option to test it in addition to a battery test but the machine will automatically say it's good if the car starts and not good if it doesn't start. They don't really help with diagnostic. Advance auto (maybe others) have a stand alone starter tester in the store and that will get an actually performance break down, BUT you have to remove the starter and also hope there is someone at the store who knows how to use the machine. I'm 1 of 2 people in my store (advance auto) that know how to use it and I rarely work so at least my store, chances are very slim.

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Most auto parts places have a starter tester or an option to test it in addition to a battery test but the machine will automatically say it's good if the car starts and not good if it doesn't start. They don't really help with diagnostic. Advance auto (maybe others) have a stand alone starter tester in the store and that will get an actually performance break down, BUT you have to remove the starter and also hope there is someone at the store who knows how to use the machine. I'm 1 of 2 people in my store (advance auto) that know how to use it and I rarely work so at least my store, chances are very slim.

 

 

 

Yea i just went by and got it all checked “good” my CEL came on today so i went and got it checked aswell. it said it was the ECT Sensor so i replaced that and cleaned up the grounds and battery terminals/posts. Do you think a faulty ECT Sensor could cut power to the car? i wouldnt think so but i have no idea. Thank You for your help!

 

Vinny

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I Have concluded it is the battery after it happening to me again and i tested the battery (~12.6v) and i put it on the charger, it said it was at 91% (based on the charger) but i guess that sill wasnt enough to crank her over. after charging to 98% (based on the charger) i then put the battery back in and she started right up. forgot to test the voltage before putting it in, whoops.
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If it's really cold where you are then that can be it too, batterys lose roughly half their cranking output below 0 degrees. It'll return to full power once it's above that temp, but still something to consider when you go to start it when it's really cold out.
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If it's really cold where you are then that can be it too, batterys lose roughly half their cranking output below 0 degrees. It'll return to full power once it's above that temp, but still something to consider when you go to start it when it's really cold out.

 

I live in texas, it never gets below freezing here. however i do have a twin 10'' sub system and 4 aftermarket door speakers that have probably destroyed that battery since i listen to it super loud :cool:

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Just bouncing some thoughts...

 

1 Does rotating the key help? Sometimes after I turn the key I have to rotate it around kind of feeling for the right spot for it to start.

 

2 When this happens and you immediately try to jump start the car is there any change?

 

3 Tap the starter if this happens again and see if this gets it to work.

 

4 I live in Abilene if you happen to be in the area I might be able to help sometime.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

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Just bouncing some thoughts...

 

1 Does rotating the key help? Sometimes after I turn the key I have to rotate it around kind of feeling for the right spot for it to start.

 

2 When this happens and you immediately try to jump start the car is there any change?

 

3 Tap the starter if this happens again and see if this gets it to work.

 

4 I live in Abilene if you happen to be in the area I might be able to help sometime.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

I havent tried rotating the key or jump starting my car, she just kinda came back on her own. After i charged the battery, cleaned the grounds, and got my battery and starter tested i havent had the problem since. Im thinking that battery is close to going out and charging it is just preventing the inevitable.

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