Fuel door release cable replacement Wagon

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door1.JPG

 

My gas door cover won't stay closed. I realize that this is better than having it stay locked closed. I can still drive the car and I have all the Subaru parts to replace the release cable from end to end.

 

 

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The pin at the door never comes out, or it is broken off. I read here on the forum that others have trouble with the pin and it is recommended to remove a millimeter or so. I don't have that problem.

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door3.JPG

 

 

 

The door end of the cable is pretty ugly but it was working until recently. Road salt really messes this part of the car and I'd love to get the front seat out to clean up the rust. I think I can figure out removing enough of the trim to get at the bolt that I can't yet see because of the carpet.

 

The rear bolt will be probably well rusted and will break off. I have a complete new assembly and cable ready to go back in. The other (front) fastening bolt is already broken off.

 

 

 

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/door4.JPG

 

 

I got the rear seat bottom out by pulling up hard on the front bottom. You can see the two white clips. The fuel door cable (black) can be seen snaking through clips from the passenger side to driver. This part will be easy to do. The two ends are the challenge.

 

 

 

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Mine is an 07 wagon. I got this far without breaking anything.

 

I can't figure out how to get off the panel that covers the back of the fuel door. I need to get there to replace the release cable.

 

I'd love to get the front drivers seat out of the car but I have never done that.

 

Maybe someone has done a walkthru about how to service the fuel door release cable? I searched! Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks!

 

 

George in Lions Head

Edited June 3, 2020 by bigfatdaddy

May be a video or link here may help.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+replace+fuel+door+cable+2005+subaru+legacy+wagon&oq=how+to+replace+fuel+door+cable+2005+subaru+legacy+wagon&aqs=chrome..69i57.21354j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Think I'll go spray mine with a little lube spray now.

I also think there are bolts behind those two shinny metal ring looking things. Pop that plastic thing out inside the metal loop.

Max is correct. There are bolts behind tiny covers in the middle of the D-ring's. Also a screw inside the pop out hook, and another behind a cap where the tonneau cover sits. Then remove the tan trim for the back most piller (D-piller) and there will be another screw there near the gasket for the hatch. Fold the seat down and it comes out. I have done it a few too many times

 

 

I am drawing a blank but the side bolster that the rear seatbelt comes out of might also need to be taken off (not fully removed, just moved out of the way)

Edited June 1, 2020 by jaylew

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/inside-sm.JPG

 

I am inside. Thanks for the hints and suggestions!

 

The foam blocks were stuffed into the space where the release cable ends.

 

The difficulty for me was freeing up the side bolster at the top to get it out of the way.

 

I can see the black fuel release cable passing over the fuel door and doubling back.

 

G

Edited June 2, 2020 by bigfatdaddy

http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/latch-release.JPG

 

 

Not sure how to access this end of the cable. I've removed the cover but the carpet covered white channel is in the way, as is the front seat to some extent. Do I need to take the seat out? Thanks.

Edited June 2, 2020 by bigfatdaddy

Most likely you'll need to pull the seat.

It's four 14mm bolts and 8-9 connectors.

Make sure you pull the ground from the battery as you'll be unplugging airbag connectors and you don't want those things going off.

But don't pull the ground until you've unbolted the seat as you need the power to move it to get too all four bolts.

The yellow airbag connectors can be frustrating, they are two stage/double latched to ensure they stay connected so they are more complicated to disconnect.

K Thanks. Is the seat heavy to lift out? I am an old guy with a bad back.

If you slide it forward to remove the rear bolts, then back to remove the front.

Then tip it on it's back (carefully) and unplug everything underneath.

You might be able to just roll it into the middle or rear seat?

Or you could tip if forward and out the door.

Just need to watch the rails so they don't scratch stuff up.

It's probably about 40lbs I think?

Perfect. Thank you!

So far, I have about three hours invested. My garage is full of Subaru pieces. I still have to remove the front driver's seat and probably the rear seat back to make things easier.

The side wall panel I removed is still taking up space in the car, trapped by the seat belt. I can remove it if I take off the bottom rear passenger seat belt so it and the side bolster can be removed from the car also.

I think I will have a beer.

I am not complaining but this is not a simple job.

G

 

 

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Video of the release cable and actuator, not yet installed in the car

Edited June 2, 2020 by bigfatdaddy
add pic

If it's not to late, can you get a picture of how the cable mounts by the front seat ?

Edited to add info:

Diagram from Subaru Parts Dept http://www.ffwdm.com/blog/diagram.JPG

Videos:

#1 The two ends of new part 4th gen Subaru Legacy fuel door cable. The drivers door end has been rust proofed in advance. The pin does not seem to pull in far enough when pulled from the release lever? I have to study it more.

#2 Showing the end of the fuel door release cable at the drivers seat end. This is a Fourth Gen Legacy Wagon 2007.

#3 The end of the fuel door release cable at the drivers seat end - continued

#4 Some details of the fuel door release cable marking and mounting clips.

I now have the back seat completely out and the side cushion. Now will remove the drivers seat carefully.

Thanks for your interest. I have not found this procedure described in detail on the forum yet for Fourth Gen.

George

Edited June 3, 2020 by bigfatdaddy

Adding a DIY video on removing the wagon rear cargo area interior trim to get down to the bare inside as seen in post 5, for posterity:

 

I'm a little late to the thread, but some pictures from when I cleaned up my trunk/fuel release cables/levers. Shows the bolt locations

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5372720&postcount=6

 

assembly before I cleaned it, they get nasty

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5538615&postcount=2

Making progress. I've got the driver seat tilted back and I am looking at the connectors for the seat. There are six.

Here is a link to what that looks like:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-unhooking-wires-under-driver-seat-280052.html

My pic looks exactly like his.

I may not have to remove the seat since I can pry the cover off the inside rocker panel with the seat tilted back enough to remove the old rusty fuel door latch mechanism and to thread in the new cable (I hope).

I was able to clean out under the drivers seat. Found a rusty 5c coin and a couple of chocolate wrappers. Waiting for my black touch up paint to dry a bit on the front seat brackets and bolts. They were very rusty.

Edited July 6, 2020 by bigfatdaddy

I started replacing the fuel door release cable in my 05 Legacy GT sedan, I didn’t take any photos because I was in the garage with not the best lighting, I primarily used a little hand held led flashlight and I was more concerned with getting a little bit done tonight. I will finish the work tomorrow/today. It’s not exactly all that warm out an I probably wasn’t properly dressed for this mid 30 degree weather (jeans and a t shirt)but I got my rear seat backs loosened up or removed and the rear seat bottom was already removed.

So I recently replaced just the lever for the trunk and gas release as mine was broken and stuck together. But Maassiwarrior replaced the cable lever and I believe he needed to replace the trim that holds the release cable under the gas door.

 

 

I have the same issue you describe with the fuel and trunk release levers seized together (but still functioning in unison) due to corrosion. I am wondering if you were able to replace the lever assembly without having to pull the seat out, or needing to access the other end of the cables to give them some slack for the replacement process? Many thanks!