Daytona Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Hi there, I've got a Legacy 2004 3.0 and I was just wondering if anyone has replaced the drive/serpentine belt and what is involved in replacing it. Apologies if it's on here already, just can't find it! Found stuff for the 2.0/2.5 but nothing about a H6. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Here's a picture from the 2004 factory service manual. From what I read I think you just need a 14mm socket, and no special tool. It sounds like it's also a good idea to replace the tensioner pulley and idler pulley (or just the bearings). http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-h6-tensioner-bearing.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/48644-how-do-you-remove-tensioner-idler-pulleys.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daytona Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Awesome! Yeah, think I'll go with replacing both pulleys from the stuff I read on the other sites. Thanks heaps Apexi! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tronic Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Just had this issue on a H6 Legacy Lancaster. Looks like its pretty important to replace the idler and tensioner bearings and belt at 120,000Km intervals. You can pull the bearings out of the idlers with a 10mm bolt and nut with some large washers and also put them back in the same way using the bolt to pull them in again after you heat the idler in the oven. The bearings I used were Nachi 6203-2NSE9 and only about $14 each and it pays to do them before the bearing cage fails, disintegrates the bearing seizes and then it shreds the belt and spins the bearing on the alloy alternator mounting bracket causing a very expensive repair if your not lucky. Damaged the bracket and had to file part of the alloy away to get the bearing back on. The replacement belt is a 6PK1650 and I fitted a Gates belt from Supercheap Auto. Was a bit unlucky as I could hear it was going as it was noisy when hot but I bought the new bearings and thought it would last until the weekend when I had time to do it but it didn't make it and had to get the car towed home thanks to the AA. This is a really cheap job to do yourself but only BEFORE the bearings fail or it can become a VERY EXPENSIVE job to do after they fail. Calibre (Gates ) 6PK1650 Belt $53 Nachi 6203-2NSE9 $14 each Would hate to see how much this would cost via Subaru worst case, probably $600-$800 if you needed a whole new tensioner/bracket/idlers/belt and labour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Just wanted to say thanks to apexi and tronic for the info. Noticed some belt squeal and took my belt off to check the idlers and sure enough the bearings were gone. Ordered a set of the Japanese Nachi bearings and Gates fleet runner micro v belt off amazon. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045E0E8U?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_JzBLwb11K3F8V]6203-2NSE Nachi Bearing 17x40x12 Sealed C3 Japan Ball Bearings: Deep Groove Ball Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific[/ame] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R863HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_yLBLwbQGS779S First off tensioner has the same exact pulley as the idler. I Took a 22mm socket and a hammered out the old bearings, and used the old bearings to hammer in the new bearings I had sitting in the freezer. Just be careful removing the bolt off the idler from the tensioner as there is a nut in the back that can fall out... Just stick a finger behind the tensioner a idler to keep the nut in when taking the bolt out or putting it back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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